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Had just about enough of battery saver and deep sleep

Packer Bill

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When you reset the BMS and leave the Mav undisturbed for 8 hours for the BMS, is it still necessary to make changes with Forscan? I thought the BMS could scan the battery and make the appropriate changes to the settings. I would appreciate any expert feedback.
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MakinDoForNow

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When you reset the BMS and leave the Mav undisturbed for 8 hours for the BMS, is it still necessary to make changes with Forscan? I thought the BMS could scan the battery and make the appropriate changes to the settings. I would appreciate any expert feedback.
I would highly doubt that any changes would ever be required for something as simple as changing a battery. Ford explicitly states in manual that this should be done after changing to a new battery and possibly be needed when using an external charger. If the 8 hour process would not update the BMS plus the BCM plus anything needed then the manual would say to take the truck to a dealer to complete the installation. I further expect the 8 hour procedure to be automatically done periodically when computer expects to have 8 hours to do so but may not. The middle of the night clicking, etc is evidence that things are happening. Unfortunately I am not an expert nor have access to Ford's programming info.
 

boe757

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Moving to this forum, looks like i am in for the long haul
appointment Feb 6 SSM 51725 we will see
appointment was on time, - now I no longer receive the message that the truck has been shut down to conserve battery. The vehicle is still dark, no interior lights, no door chime same as before; except now no notification. Truck has always started fine and continues to spring to life when I insert the key. So at this time it would seem that the notification message has been removed or altered by SSM 51725. procedure was not helpful
 

dogtruck

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Yea I don't really see myself keeping the Maverick. This winter just kinda confirmed it. At least the EB starts but the battery is still not healthy. I've had the dome lights sometimes never come on. I've also removed the vehicle from the app, deleted my account and non longer use it.

Plus I just had a throttle body issue cold starting it and it ran on remote start for at least 10 minutes with a misfire. That should not happen. Cold weather or not, if the CEL comes on and it's misfiring the remote start should disengage. Now I can't even trust remote start.

The CEL went off today but out of all the vehicles Ive has and years in Montana winter, this is a first for me. It's one thing to have a cranky start but the Mavericks issues are not something I find reliable.

No idea what my plan is yet but I doubt I'll keep it as long as I was hoping to. I dunno... I was happy enough and willing to ignore quite a bit, but risk management and my gut just keep telling me to run and not look back.

I am definitely considering going back in time and buying something with very low mileage and just being done with all this new crap. I'm only 40, and I enjoy the features of new vehicles, but if I can't trust them, what's the point? I'd rather spend more at the pump and know it's going to last.
I feel your pain and frustration. But sooner or later ya gotta join the 21st century. Maybe by then (your joining) vehicles will be more reliable. It seems "features" trumps reliability. Iam retired with 2 vehicles so it my Ford craps out I will take the Toyota. You are probably still working and need the dependable vehicle.
Good luck, beautiful country up there.
 

OleFordGuy

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Guess I’m polar opposite, if it’s not dependable and reliable I’m not buying or keeping it. To hell with features or what century we’re in,
 

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23MAVLariatAWD

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Did you mean the BMS = Battery Management System, the sensor on the battery negative?
BCM = Body Control Module.
Yes you are correct BMS reset thanks-
 

Montana

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I feel your pain and frustration. But sooner or later ya gotta join the 21st century. Maybe by then (your joining) vehicles will be more reliable. It seems "features" trumps reliability. Iam retired with 2 vehicles so it my Ford craps out I will take the Toyota. You are probably still working and need the dependable vehicle.
Good luck, beautiful country up there.
I actually traded two for the single Maverick. I had a Tacoma and Escape previously and before that it was an F150 and a Crosstrek. But the features on the Maverick are the affordable version that you would now pay $80k for on a full size truck or 50-60k on a mid size. I got my Tacoma for $38k and the Maverick cost just as much. It's crazy. It's the first vehicle I paid cash for and I only drive around 8k a year now... if that. Currently on just over 3k in 6 months. So whatever happens, I'm not to worried about it but I know I have the Maverick for at least another 5 years. As soon as the warranty is up it's gone.
 

boe757

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unfortunately we have contributed to this problem -- if the dealer would have said "now remember you have to purchase a jump box for reliability or the window sticker would have included a $300 dollar jump box charge; questions would have been asked. It does not cost Ford anything for the dealer to say "drive more". 25 or 50 roadside assistance calls per week is a different story. In hindsight i think that's the route we should have taken, money talks; once battery replacement becomes cheaper than roadside assistance a solution would be found - trust the bean counters
 

Automan21

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While looking at my battery and the leads on it, I noticed an extra little box and wiring from each. Could that be the stupid battery saver connections? My Chevy at work has the same kind of nonsense that keeps the battery from dying if something is left on. My fleet mechanic disabled it because of that reason(trucks won’t start after a few days parked). Not sure what he did but I bet it’s something to do with those extra connections. Wonder if we can just remove them or put some kind of jumper to make it think it’s good.?

just spitballing guys since I know this is a hot topic for many.
 
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Darnon

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I ended up going the Weize H5 battery route after mine wasn't coming out of deep sleep since the new year. Ordered directly from Weize and it was under $113 shipped. Hardest part was finagling the bin plastic piece out. Wasn't in deep sleep this morning, but the real test would be after the upcoming holiday weekend.

Put my tester on the OE battery that's now about 23 months old. Tested good with low-ish charge (12.36V when I did the first test), but it always had the symptoms others have observed with the voltage diving precipitously to near 12V flat when in the vehicle and not being actively charged.
Just as a 2 week update and the Weize is going strong. No issue over the President's Day 4 days off. And tested after sitting for a few hours this morning was resting at 12.46V whereas the stock battery would often be down to 12V even or lower.

Also decided to look at the removed stock battery. It was still initially at 12.34V, but connecting it to a single 1157 bulb (so about 2 amp) as a test load immediately dumped it to ~12.15 volts Off load it gradually recovered back to 12.3V. My electronic tester still rated is at 397CCA - Good, but needing recharge. To further stress test it I tried my big carbon pile load tester and it did manage to stay above 9.6V under load for about 10 seconds. So it'd seem that the "marginal" OE batteries have issues with supporting even low loads to the point they trigger Deep Sleep but not necessarily fail to power.
 
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MJL

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Darnon

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Was this for your hybrid and what was the part number...did it have the vent?
Hybrid, yes. It's an AGM battery and comes with the vent install location. Although worth noting that the H5 battery is longer than the stock Group 99 and requires removal/flattening of the fore/aft tabs and likely removing the plastic bin during installation (it still fits afterwards).
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