Ford going to do new parasitic draw test

[First Sergeant]

Stopped at Ford for the quick lane (or whatever its called) oil change, down to 1%. Service guy was looking at my Maverick on is computer and noticed battery was at 53%. Asked me if I was having issues with battery saver or the deep sleep modes. I told him if I don't keep it plugged in with the maintainer, it will always go into battery saver after a few days. He said lets check it for parasitic draw, but will need appointment, which I got for next Tuesday. He explained that a new procedure, as of February 26th is now being to accomplish this draw test. I am under factory warranty until November this year and asked him if this was covered and he said all good and no cost to me. I have seen others here on the forum who have had that happen and they end op getting charged, usually has to do with disconnecting a third party hardware, dashcam, eyebrow light, etc. I'm hoping our resident tech, Daryl and you other smart fella's will weigh in on these two questions.
1. Will I most likely have to pay some money? (I have dash cam and additional lighting)
2. This newer procedure takes much more time to accomplish than the older one and looks to be more complicated. So are the odds good that my truck will come back fully operational, no idiot lights, flashing warnings or some modules with smoke rolling out? Not being mean, here (that is my First Sergeant mode reserved for the truly special ones), but I don't want the truck to have to spend a few weeks waiting on a module or other issues. I conned the service guy to send me the pdf for the entire diagnostic procedure, so I'm quite certain the Ford "police" will be arriving any second. Enjoy the read, any thoughts? Maybe leave well enough alone was my first thought, as I have not had a "no start" condition and everything else is doing fine on the truck. Note, I do have about 5 items I have added or changed with Forscan. I'm ok with a redo if they blast those changes out, not that time consuming, but hope that the dealer doesn't make a stink and want me to pay out like a slot machine!

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[HeyBales]

That seems to still be talking about a discharge event - your battery is dead one morning.
Classic parasitic draw.
That change to allow working with a fuse box that must be disconnected to get to the fuses is good.
@johnDeere made his own connector to allow dealing with fuses while it's hooked up - so the more traditional voltage readings can be taken at the fuses while it's connected.

But that is NOT the issue many of us have of the BMS system just allowing a battery to live on the very low charge side and slowly but eventually sulfate and kill the battery, causing months of Battery Saver mode functions or also Deep Sleep Mode to keep the charge up - which doesn't work and eventually a new battery is needed.

Sounds like you have the latter - but perhaps they'll find the former anyway.
Personally I'm not holding my breath.
Well - unless my battery overcharged and blew the pressure relieve valve and vent tube didn't work. LOL.

 

[Mavman1]

Please let us all know what the outcome is (and any other beneficial info.) after you get your truck back next week. Hopefully the new diagnostic procedure will help find the source of the parasitic draw.

 

[HeyBales]

Wow - I read thru that better.

Poor techs - that seems as badly written as the manual is.
Several places they must have edited but didn't look at the order.
Like #16 - what prior line said to remove fuses?

Half of it matches the 2022 service manual - and I still don't see how they are keeping the BJB powered when checking those fuses - unless it's that TRM power supply in line #12.

Also annoying - need the seat bottom up to deal with the battery.
But need the seat back forward to get to the TRM.
Just wow.

 

[grandpa_disney]

Wow - I read thru that better.

Poor techs - that seems as badly written as the manual is.
Several places they must have edited but didn't look at the order.
Like #16 - what prior line said to remove fuses?

Half of it matches the 2022 service manual - and I still don't see how they are keeping the BJB powered when checking those fuses - unless it's that TRM power supply in line #12.

Also annoying - need the seat bottom up to deal with the battery.
But need the seat back forward to get to the TRM.
Just wow.

Agreed. Also this describes a common sense approach to fault isolation. I did the same type of thing running down an issue on an old Mazda I had. I did it without a service bulletin. I am very surprised it has taken Ford this long to come up with this procedure.

 

[Quest]

The toughest ones are unexpected network activity
Before all the networks were available at the DLC but with the new enhanced gateway module its a lot harder to snoop on activity across different networks

 

[johnDeere]

WOW, all I can say is wow, Ford is taking the battery draw serious, they had some one write up procedures on finding battery draw.
Maybe now they will start finding something.
That was a joke, but at least they have procedures now.
As for setting up for current draw test , I set up my truck for voltage and current draw 1 year ago.
It was noted that my 100A shunt looses accuracy with lower current.

This procedure is mostly for the battery draw that will drain your battery past there normal 90 minute cut off time frame.
There are many fuses that are for modules, but does not state what fuse controls what module.

It never mentioned how the under hood fuse block is powered when it’s opened up to test current on different fuses.


From what I have seen on my 23 Mav hybrid, if you still have current flowing up to the max time of 90 minutes, under normal driving times, you will never recover what was lost in the 90 minutes currently drain with out intervening.

My 12v battery current draw for up to 90 minutes was due to my OBD2 to Bluetooth unit.
The unit kept the network to modules active until they started turning off.
Darryl said that current drop as modules turn off, and that is what I was seeing.
As soon as I changed the 12v power for My vgate vlinker MC+ OBD2 adapter, my 12v battery current dropped to .00 A after 15 minutes.
With my NEXAS test OBD2 adapter, 12v battery current would drop to .02 A after 15 minutes.

 

[DaddyDan]

Agreed. Also this describes a common sense approach to fault isolation. I did the same type of thing running down an issue on an old Mazda I had. I did it without a service bulletin. I am very surprised it has taken Ford this long to come up with this procedure.

I'd bet what happened was someone low on the totem pole got tasked with designing a test. He's slowly but surely working on it when someone with gray in their temples drops by and looks over his shoulder and says: "You know back in the day the way we would have tested this is... (20 min later) would that work for this scenario?"

 

[HeyBales]

Here's what a 2022 service manual already had in it for Battery Drain Check.

They added a bit in the new document - like how to power the BJB to check those fuses - except the instructions don't state that. Would like to see the referenced video - alas not there.

Battery Drain Check
Check
NOTE: No factory-equipped vehicle should have more than a 25 mA (0.025 amp) – 50 mA (0.050) draw depending on the vehicle's accessories. Check for current drains on the battery in excess of 25 mA (0.025 amp) – 50 mA (0.050) with all the electrical accessories off and the vehicle at rest for at least 75 minutes (depending on region). Current drains can be tested with the following procedure.
NOTE: Many electronic modules draw 10 mA (0.010 amp) or more continuously.
NOTE: Typically, a drain of approximately 1 amp is attributed to an engine compartment lamp, glove compartment lamp or interior lamp staying on continually. Other component failures or wiring shorts are located by selectively pulling fuses to pinpoint the location of the current drain. When the current drain is found, the meter reading falls to an acceptable level.
NOTE: To accurately test the drain on a battery, use an in-line ammeter between the negative battery post and its respective cable. Use of a test lamp or voltmeter is not an accurate method.
NOTE: In addition to the battery drain check a parasitic draw test video is provided as an additional testing resource,
Click here to view parasitic draw test.

1. If equipped, disable the approach detection feature.

2. Make sure the fuse box(es) are accessible without turning on the interior lights or the underhood lights.

3. Drive the vehicle for at least 5 minutes over 48 km/h (30 mph) to activate the vehicle systems.

4. NOTE: If equipped with an automatic transmission and the vehicle has an IPC PRNDL indicator, verify the gear selector lever is in the park position and is operating correctly. A fault in the park position indicator circuit can prevent modules from transitioning to sleep mode.
Allow the vehicle to sit with the ignition off for at least 75 minutes (depending on region) to allow the modules to time out/power down.

5. Connect a fused jumper wire (30A) between the negative battery cable and the negative battery post to prevent modules from resetting.

6. Disconnect the negative battery cable from the negative battery post without breaking the connection of the fused jumper wire.

7. NOTE: It is important that continuity is not broken between the battery and the negative battery cable when connecting the meter. If this happens, repeat the time out/power down procedure.
NOTE: The meter must be capable of reading milliamps and should have a 10 amp capability.
Connect a meter between the negative battery cable terminal and the negative battery post.

8. NOTE: If the meter settings need to be switched or the test leads need to be moved to another outlet, reinstall the fused jumper wire to avoid breaking continuity.
Remove the fused jumper wire.

9. If equipped with auxiliary battery(s), ensure that the auxiliary battery(s) are disconnnected when measuring current draw at the primary battery, to ensure the meter or inductive amp probe measures all current draws present.
Disconnect the auxiliary battery(s).
Refer to: Battery Disconnect and Connect (414-01 Battery, Mounting and Cables, General Procedures).

10. Note the amperage draw. Draw varies from vehicle to vehicle depending on the equipment package. Compare to a similar vehicle for reference.

11. NOTE: If the vehicle sits for an extended period of time and the battery drains, there is the possibility of a control module staying alive and not going into sleep mode. If a control module stays alive, it can result in battery drain. If a control module is suspected, isolate individual modules by disconnecting them one at a time and note if the excessive draw goes away.
NOTE: For vehicles equipped with aftermarket equipment containing electrical connections, disconnect the aftermarket to factory connections to isolate the body from the chassis.
NOTE: Vehicles may be equipped with multiple fuse box locations.
Refer to Wiring Diagrams Cell 13 for schematic and connector information.
If the current draw is excessive, remove the fuses from the main fuse box one at a time and note the current drop.

12. When the current level drops to an acceptable level after removing a fuse, the circuit containing the excessive draw has been located. Reinstall the fuse and allow the vehicle to sit with the key out of the ignition for at least 75 minutes (depending on region) to allow the modules to time out/power down again.

13. The excessive draw can be isolated by continuing to pull subsystem fuses and disconnecting components. Do not reinstall the fuses or connect components until testing is finished. To correctly isolate each of the circuits, all of the fuses may need to be removed, then install one fuse and note the amperage draw, remove the fuse and install the next fuse. Continue this process with each fuse.

14. If excessive current draw is isolated to a specific module, verify if a module input is the cause of the concern. Refer to the corresponding workshop manual system operation and component description section to determine the inputs (hardwired or network messages) received by the module in question.

15. Check the Wiring Diagrams manual for any circuits that run from the battery without passing through the main fuse box or other fuse box(es). If the current draw is still excessive, disconnect these circuits until the draw is found.
Disconnect the generator(s) electrical connections and retest if the draw cannot be located. The generator(s) may be internally shorted, causing the current drain.

16. If equipped with window one-touch up, perform the window motor initialization after the negative battery cable terminal is connected to the negative battery post.
Refer to: Power Door Window Initialization (501-11 Glass, Frames and Mechanisms, General Procedures).

 

[Msradke]

Retired Ford dealer tech here. I have a 24 2.0 L Eco Maverick with a draw concern. Been to the dealer a number of times. I have been doing my own diag . The causes I have noted are fuel pump run , transmission solenoids cycle , throttle body moves, and just recently noted the ACM stays on or comes on with the key off. I have caught a draw of over 6.0 amps a few times and does not last long enough to diag the source. Right now I have a battery disconnect switch when off till a repair is found.
Good luck

 

[retrojet]

Stopped at Ford for the quick lane (or whatever its called) oil change, down to 1%. Service guy was looking at my Maverick on is computer and noticed battery was at 53%. Asked me if I was having issues with battery saver or the deep sleep modes. I told him if I don't keep it plugged in with the maintainer, it will always go into battery saver after a few days. He said lets check it for parasitic draw, but will need appointment, which I got for next Tuesday. He explained that a new procedure, as of February 26th is now being to accomplish this draw test. I am under factory warranty until November this year and asked him if this was covered and he said all good and no cost to me. I have seen others here on the forum who have had that happen and they end op getting charged, usually has to do with disconnecting a third party hardware, dashcam, eyebrow light, etc. I'm hoping our resident tech, Daryl and you other smart fella's will weigh in on these two questions.
1. Will I most likely have to pay some money? (I have dash cam and additional lighting)
2. This newer procedure takes much more time to accomplish than the older one and looks to be more complicated. So are the odds good that my truck will come back fully operational, no idiot lights, flashing warnings or some modules with smoke rolling out? Not being mean, here (that is my First Sergeant mode reserved for the truly special ones), but I don't want the truck to have to spend a few weeks waiting on a module or other issues. I conned the service guy to send me the pdf for the entire diagnostic procedure, so I'm quite certain the Ford "police" will be arriving any second. Enjoy the read, any thoughts? Maybe leave well enough alone was my first thought, as I have not had a "no start" condition and everything else is doing fine on the truck. Note, I do have about 5 items I have added or changed with Forscan. I'm ok with a redo if they blast those changes out, not that time consuming, but hope that the dealer doesn't make a stink and want me to pay out like a slot machine!

Obviously, overloading any electronic system is detrimental.... But, I don't think adding 'some' additional lighting and/or a dashcam, for personal safety and piece of mind, would void any warranty coverage? Unless its improperly installed, of course?.... Good luck with the outcome!

 

[First Sergeant]

Obviously, overloading any electronic system is detrimental.... But, I don't think adding 'some' additional lighting and/or a dashcam, for personal safety and piece of mind, would void any warranty coverage? Unless its improperly installed, of course?.... Good luck with the outcome!

Yeah "eyebrow" type light is wired direct to park lights. The Viofo camera has it's own monitor type switch that allows you to set it to shut down at either 12.4, 12.2, 12.0 or 11.8 volts. I always just hit the power button on the camera anyways when we park for the night. Leaving it turned on, camera goes into a "sleep" mode, but the motion sensor stays active watching for the crooks at which point it will record for a time.

 

[retrojet]

Sounds like the perfect upgrade! If Ford had offered that as an additional 'option' I would have ticked the box without hesitation... never mind the arm and leg it would have cost me?!

 

[HeyBales]

Retired Ford dealer tech here. I have a 24 2.0 L Eco Maverick with a draw concern. Been to the dealer a number of times. I have been doing my own diag . The causes I have noted are fuel pump run , transmission solenoids cycle , throttle body moves, and just recently noted the ACM stays on or comes on with the key off. I have caught a draw of over 6.0 amps a few times and does not last long enough to diag the source. Right now I have a battery disconnect switch when off till a repair is found.
Good luck

Since the pre-25MY updates is only to the info center software - could the ACM be coming on for that?
Really curious now if you have it enabled with WiFi connection to even check. Or auto-updated enabled?
That would be sad - no connectivity, but turn on attempting to check anyway for 5 min.

Do you even leave HVAC system on and then key off?

 

[HeyBales]

Obviously, overloading any electronic system is detrimental.... But, I don't think adding 'some' additional lighting and/or a dashcam, for personal safety and piece of mind, would void any warranty coverage? Unless its improperly installed, of course?.... Good luck with the outcome!

Section 2 on electrical. They updated this to include 2025. Well, at least in the title text.
If this is updated as well as the manual and the drain test instructions - well, maybe not.

https://www.fordservicecontent.com/...iles/20222025MaverickHybridModifierGuide1.pdf

Seems like if you could point out - hey, I followed these official guidelines FROM Ford which allow mods...

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