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Engine air filter replacement.

Cancunbadlands

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95% of people clean the K&N too frequently.

Being a city / paved road kind of driver I cleaned the K&N in my old truck 3 times in 20 years. And that was just to make me feel good.

Unless you drive on dusty dirt roads frequently no need to do much.

It's also not hard to clean the stock one and put it back in. Pro Tip: use a leaf blower on it and blow against the grain. Blower is strong enough to blow the dust and bugs out, and not strong enough to tear it.

This thread reminded me to check my factory one.

42 months and 55,000 miles (city) looks like this:

IMG_7188.webp


IMG_7189.webp


IMG_7190.webp
Not bad at all
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grandpopa'sMPGs

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Thank eveyone for the advice. I have decided to go with a Fram engine air filter. It seams to be rated very high in many places. $ for $ I wont break even with the K & N until 150,00 miles at which point I will probably break it
 

zen_

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It's actually 69$ now
It is a one time buy

Screenshot_20260201_143200_Chrome~2.webp
K&N air filters are junk unless you have an actual high performance, used for racing vehicle.



I like the concept of buy it once rather than throwaway filters, but they just don't work compared to a quality filter like a Wix, and even no name brand Amazon paper filters are better by a wide margin in Project Farm's test. Pretty sure the Motorcraft air filter is made by Mann Hummel (Wix, Purolator) like most of the oil filters. $8.50 for the Wix filters on rockauto.
 

Mavster Mechanic

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K&N air filters are junk unless you have an actual high performance, used for racing vehicle.



I like the concept of buy it once rather than throwaway filters, but they just don't work compared to a quality filter like a Wix, and even no name brand Amazon paper filters are better by a wide margin in Project Farm's test.
Dude...

You're not trying to filter covid virus or sub-atomic particles. The test(s) you watched were flawed on a very basic level. They don't represent real life.

The K&N filters what needs to be filtered just fine for most drivers in most situations. But there's also nothing wrong with the cheaper "paper" ones either.
 

James K

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Personally like paper filters over the oiled cotton ones as I understand the filter better.
I run K&N on my Austin Healey but gave up on them in modern vehicles. I used to run them in my previous daily drivers but had a couple air mass issues which may or may not be related to the oil on the filters. Like you, I now just use a quality paper filter.
 

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svogt302

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I run K&N on my Austin Healey but gave up on them in modern vehicles. I used to run them in my previous daily drivers but had a couple air mass issues which may or may not be related to the oil on the filters. Like you, I now just use a quality paper filter.
I've seen people over-oil them & causing MAF issues. .... I stick with paper.
 

James K

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I've seen people over-oil them & causing MAF issues. .... I stick with paper.
Both times it was prior to any cleaning. Both times it was on an Audi 2.0 with under 50K miles. It might be an issue on Audis as correlation doesn't mean causation. But I'm playing it safe with paper.
 

zen_

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Dude...

You're not trying to filter covid virus or sub-atomic particles. The test(s) you watched were flawed on a very basic level. They don't represent real life.

The K&N filters what needs to be filtered just fine for most drivers in most situations. But there's also nothing wrong with the cheaper "paper" ones either.
I just have a hard time understanding what the point of the K&N filter is when the oil is known to foul sensors when not done correctly and it lets more particulates through. Makes less sense than ever on modern engines that are stretched to the limit on tolerances and operating parameters trying to eek out the most efficiency with the least emissions.
 

Maverick Country Club

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I never bought the K&N hype, it seems gimmicky and more work than it was worth.
 
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Installed a TRD air box on my Corolla Hatch that came with a K & N filter. Ended up putting the OEM Toyota filter in - it sounded better!

Ford Maverick Engine air filter replacement. IMG_0454
 

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I just have a hard time understanding what the point of the K&N filter is when the oil is known to foul sensors when not done correctly and it lets more particulates through. Makes less sense than ever on modern engines that are stretched to the limit on tolerances and operating parameters trying to eek out the most efficiency with the least emissions.
I believe the theory is k&n allows more air volume maybe allowing more horsepower but the trade-off is more air correspondingly more fuel worst gas mileage.
I don't know if it's right or wrong that's just how I understood it.
 

Zotman

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If you're changing the engine air filter don't neglect the passenger compartment one behind the glove box.
 

Hot Runr Guy

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If you're changing the engine air filter don't neglect the passenger compartment one behind the glove box.
And be VERY careful with the (2) clips on the sides, they are surprisingly easy to break off.

HRG
 

TKranbuhl

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Yea the clips on the sides will break easily. I was careful but still lost both at the first cabin filter removal. Had to insert short sheet metal screws to secure. A very poor design.
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