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DIY Modem Replacement?

zach57x

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TCU contains the cell modem I think.
1768348763491-4m.webp


THIS FITS YOUR 2023 Ford Maverick 2.5L I4 Electric XLT Supercrew
Transceiver.
Part Number: NJ6Z-14G229-A
Supersession(s): NJ6T-14G229-BB; NJ6T14G229BB; NJ6Z14G229A

ebay photo of one:
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Location in 22 to 24 Mavericks
1768348235249-fm.webp


2023. Hybrid: (Had it out to see if it had a backup battery as some TCUs do, No)
1768348429127-ge.webp

1768364527683-cw.webp

1768364583819-c8.webp

1768364728486-d0.webp
Were you able to get to it just from removing the lower panel on the throttle pedal side?
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ShadowBlack XL440

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Part number in the form xxxZ- are “service part numbers”, only really useful when ordering directly from Ford/dealership.
eBay stuff you should be looking for the xxxT- part number (“engineering part number”) since that’s what is printed on the label

You could probably try to find either an exact match for the part currently in your vehicle (eBay or junkyard), should be what I posted earlier but I would actually go take a picture with of your current module to double check,
OR
Try to find something that matches the replacement part number BlueSpec posted above, either on eBay or just buying from a dealer like Levittown Ford.

In either case you’re going to need to find someone to do the PMI programming, with FDRS. I would guess that is the harder part…

Honestly probably not worth the hassle, if you can live with out the TCU features.
Can it be reprogrammed with FORScan?
 

skinnyboy

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Axle shafts on Mavericks? There is software readily available 30+ years ago and in use today that could have defined the problem and a fix before production.
Manufacturers (some anyway) demand specs. be met by extensive lab testing on physical parts prior to letting supply contracts, even on simple things like door checkers and hinges. How that translates into the consistency of quality of the production component is another story. Like the drive shafts shafts, some are fine, but some not, unfortunately. Parts built to a price.

Cheers.
 

Lone Ridr

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Manufacturers (some anyway) demand specs. be met by extensive lab testing on physical parts prior to letting supply contracts, even on simple things like door checkers and hinges. How that translates into the consistency of quality of the production component is another story. Like the drive shafts shafts, some are fine, but some not, unfortunately. Parts built to a price.

Cheers.
The Specifications are set too wide and, as to length, too short. Thus the 100K warranty. Ford admits it. Ansys Fea prototype software has been around since 1970. As to the Monza, they pulled the rotary engine and didn’t move the introduction deadline. Too much weight increase from a cast iron 262CI V8 caused most of the Monza problems, thus a management decision.
 
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BlueSpec1

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Were you able to get to it just from removing the lower panel on the throttle pedal side?
Have to access it from both sides. So LH & RH console trim to remove
The TCU has mounting bolts on LH & RH.
I ended up leaving my TCU in place w its fuse disconnected since Feb 2024.

Notes to myself then:
Started trying to get the TCU RF antenna Cables Disconnected so I'd be able to leave the TCU powered up, but not able to transmit
PITA to disconnect the RF antenna Cable b/c of small tab on backside of the connectors
It took a lot of effort to get the connectors Off
Removed the TCU fm the Maverick
Opened up the Battery Compartment, it's Empty
So Ford must have stopped putting backup batteries in the Maverick TCUs at least
Since there isn't a battery to worry about discharging b/c F11 is pulled, I reinstalled the TCU
PITA to get it into its brackets that have plastic line-up pins on each side
Reconnected the DC 16 Pin Connector & the 2 RF Cables
 

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AltoMavDad

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The Specifications are set too wide and, as to length, too short. Thus the 100K warranty. Ford admits it. Ansys Fea prototype software has been around since 1970. As to the Monza, they pulled the rotary engine and didn’t move the introduction deadline. Too much weight increase from a cast iron 262CI V8 caused most of the Monza problems, thus a management decision.
Wrong thread?
 

bbhaag

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Part number in the form xxxZ- are “service part numbers”, only really useful when ordering directly from Ford/dealership.
eBay stuff you should be looking for the xxxT- part number (“engineering part number”) since that’s what is printed on the label

You could probably try to find either an exact match for the part currently in your vehicle (eBay or junkyard), should be what I posted earlier but I would actually go take a picture with of your current module to double check,
OR
Try to find something that matches the replacement part number BlueSpec posted above, either on eBay or just buying from a dealer like Levittown Ford.

In either case you’re going to need to find someone to do the PMI programming, with FDRS. I would guess that is the harder part…

Honestly probably not worth the hassle, if you can live with out the TCU features.
100% agree with this post. Even if the OP finds a used TCU or purchases a new one from Ford it will require programing using FDRS.

There are DIY solutions for this but the initial upfront cost is steep.

The cost of the license can be found here.

Ford Maverick DIY Modem Replacement? 232840-7c9ff3743d44c2660faa1f618cb46d79


Then you will need specialized equipment to gain access to the module or TCU. Here is the "cheap" way of doing it but it is still hundreds of dollars.

THIS IS CALLED A "POOR MANS" FDRS RIG

First is the Topdon RLink J2534. Right now it sells for $270 versus the Mongoose that is closer to $600. It does the same thing as the Mongoose and is compatible with all current Ford vehicles.

https://www.amazon.com/TOPDON-RLink-Programmer-Reprogramming-Diagnostic/dp/B0DFM25BZB

Next is a link to an RV power converter that supplies a continuous 12v at 60A. This should be more than enough to keep the 12v battery at a healthy SOC when doing updates. It costs right around $140.

https://www.amazon.com/PowerMax-PM4-60A-Converter-Battery/dp/B01ER3LGYY/ref=sr_1_1_pp?dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.IuTJJf00aHkUfVqS3TpvZjIWVtgNMfqSDex-Y2kyz4-46nHjtYOCGREMO7LIvNwvBlXFNGXCiAlbPxV3scCQmG7-Y5yJswEKAHtB3fqX0MFZp-RtkFmhqYQlb2KZROZRizruMwbgyUM9Z6hXtl6zYZCkn6j8ZCjqd7JJkTvjMOk3MusPkS0zl638Fyn2lMx1cYunn1CwnczvmaymBJfL1lSsaqAzl_XtnbknAiI1SrHIKH0dpeXNaRHc_MEJ2kcSrOPay5GQWvTblIB8IkVesV8cRh9nyZ3CpMTquM9GDSQ.SoqgLRK2VWBCUqimQwidkq0E0Eu7XaRlhG0MJigK5EQ&dib_tag=se&keywords=powermax+converter&qid=1768525315&sr=8-1&th=1

Last is some cheap 4 gauge jumper cables. You will use these to connect to the power converter linked above and the clamps to connect to the 12v battery. You will need to cut the clamps off one end then strip back the plastic coating and attach the wires to the red and black terminals on the converter.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079JYF3MS?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_title_1&th=1
 
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JJTech

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100% agree with this post. Even if the OP finds a used TCU or purchases a new one from Ford it will require programing using FDRS.

There are DIY solutions for this but the initial upfront cost is steep.
Note that, of course, it pays to make friends and if you can find someone nearby with an FDRS setup it’s suddenly much more cost-effective :p

Personally, I think it’s fun, which outweighs any inconvenience lol.

But what gets me even more than that is the warning on the modem trash it if you drop it. Ouch !!!
That’s just a generic warning, it’s on pretty much all of the electronic modules I’ve seen. In my opinion they’re not actually that fragile, I assume Ford just doesn’t want it shipped to a customer if someone in the factory dropped it, just in case.
 
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AltoMavDad

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100% agree with this post. Even if the OP finds a used TCU or purchases a new one from Ford it will require programing using FDRS.

There are DIY solutions for this but the initial upfront cost is steep.
Just to be clear, $750 covers the part (ordered by Ford dealership) as well as installation and programming (by the tech at Ford)

Wondering if I can get the part from a junkyard and still have the guy at Ford program it (at cost of labor)
 

bbhaag

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Just to be clear, $750 covers the part (ordered by Ford dealership) as well as installation and programming (by the tech at Ford)
That was kind of my point. For $750 you get a new part not one from a salvage yard and you also get it programed versus having to buy the equipment and trying to DIY it.

Now if you are into the DIY thing and like to tinker then getting an FDRS rig setup and functioning can be fun. You can also update other modules in the vehicle that might need it as well. It's not just for reprogramming the TCU.

If you're into the DIY thing here is a link to the Mach-E forum I hang out on that has a nice write up on using FDRS to update Ford vehicles. I know this is for a Mach-E but nobody here on the Mav forum has yet to post anything about doing this on 2025MY Mavericks. I'm guessing it is similar but not 100% sure on that.

The Complete DIY Guide to Updating Your Mach-E with FDRS
 

bbhaag

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Note that, of course, it pays to make friends and if you can find someone nearby with an FDRS setup it’s suddenly much more cost-effective :p

Personally, I think it’s fun, which outweighs any inconvenience lol.
Yep, I agree it can be a lot of fun. The links in my post are the equipment I use for my FDRS rig when updating my 2023 Mach-E. Some guys on the Mach-E forum love to give me crap for going with the cheaper equipment like the TopDon instead of the more expensive Mongoose or the cheap RV converter instead of the $800 Clore unit but IDC. It has worked every time I need it to.:)
 
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BlueSpec1

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bbhaag

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Ford changed FDRS to "subscription" October 2025, it's $120 for 2 days.

#16,320 https://www.f150gen14.com/forum/threads/ecu-module-programming-guide-using-fdrs.8249/post-722285
"Think I found it and answered "my own question...
- https://www.motorcraftservice.com
> Top menu - "Diagnostic tool support"
> Software
> Ford Diagnostic Subscription"
1768597565877-et.webp
Good catch! It has been close to a year since I've purchased a license so I was just relying on links I had saved in my favorites.

If you don't mind I'll use your pic and link to update my post above.
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