Did the first oil change today. Mileage 4258 miles

[dasblack]

These trucks don’t have a factory maintenance plan?

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[MaverickTopGun]

That doesn't make any sense at all. Do you think when doing cranking only the engine is under the same stress as when it's firing?

Partially filling the oil filter and starting the engine is better? So running with a little bit of air is fine? Maybe but it doesn't hurt to spin the engine under no load to put oil through the entire oil system before start up.

A what is slow crank?

Come back and discuss it when you have a Mechanical Engineering degree and understand hydrodynamic, boundary and mixed-regime tribology in the main bearings and valve train, and positive displacement oil pumps.

You can see how it's a bit complicated to explain.

 

[Ranch]

Come back and discuss it when you have a Mechanical Engineering degree and understand hydrodynamic, boundary and mixed-regime tribology in the main bearings and valve train, and positive displacement oil pumps.

You can see how it's a bit complicated to explain.

Go ahead and explain. I'm always open to learning new things.

 

[MaverickTopGun]

Go ahead and explain. I'm always open to learning new things.

Here is ChatGPT's response (I'm too lazy to provide engineering support here, so ChatGPT it is).
That is a pretty good A.I. tool, as this shows:


Cranking an engine without starting it, in the context of hydrodynamic, boundary, and mixed-regime tribology in the main bearings and valve train, along with positive displacement oil pumps, can potentially lead to increased internal wear compared to starting the engine normally. Here's why:

1. Lubrication: When you crank the engine without starting it, the lubrication system might not be fully operational, leading to insufficient lubrication between the moving parts such as main bearings and valve train components. This lack of proper lubrication can result in increased friction and wear.
2. Boundary Lubrication and Mixed-Regime Tribology: Boundary lubrication occurs when there is metal-to-metal contact between surfaces, and mixed-regime tribology involves a combination of boundary and hydrodynamic lubrication. Both of these scenarios can occur during cranking when the engine is not running at its designed operating conditions. These regimes can lead to increased wear due to higher friction and potential metal-to-metal contact.
3. Positive Displacement Oil Pumps: Positive displacement oil pumps are designed to supply a certain volume of oil at a specified pressure to the engine components. During cranking without starting, the oil pump might not be delivering oil at the optimal rate and pressure. This can affect the formation of a hydrodynamic lubrication film, leading to inadequate separation between surfaces and increased wear.
4. Start-Stop Cycles: Repeatedly cranking the engine without starting it could lead to multiple start-stop cycles. Each start-stop cycle can contribute to additional wear on the engine components, as the initial moments of startup and shutdown involve different conditions than steady-state operation.

Starting the engine normally allows the lubrication system to function as intended, establishing a proper hydrodynamic lubrication film that minimizes metal-to-metal contact and reduces wear. The engine's components are designed to operate under specific conditions, and cranking without starting might deviate from these conditions, potentially causing accelerated wear and reducing the engine's overall lifespan.
It's important to follow proper operating procedures and manufacturer recommendations for starting and operating your engine to ensure optimal performance and longevity while minimizing unnecessary wear on critical components.

 

[Montana]

These trucks don’t have a factory maintenance plan?

Are you referring to something like what the manual says for service intervals?

 

[Ranch]

Here is ChatGPT's response (I'm too lazy to provide engineering support here, so ChatGPT it is).
That is a pretty good A.I. tool, as this shows:


Cranking an engine without starting it, in the context of hydrodynamic, boundary, and mixed-regime tribology in the main bearings and valve train, along with positive displacement oil pumps, can potentially lead to increased internal wear compared to starting the engine normally. Here's why:

1. Lubrication: When you crank the engine without starting it, the lubrication system might not be fully operational, leading to insufficient lubrication between the moving parts such as main bearings and valve train components. This lack of proper lubrication can result in increased friction and wear.
2. Boundary Lubrication and Mixed-Regime Tribology: Boundary lubrication occurs when there is metal-to-metal contact between surfaces, and mixed-regime tribology involves a combination of boundary and hydrodynamic lubrication. Both of these scenarios can occur during cranking when the engine is not running at its designed operating conditions. These regimes can lead to increased wear due to higher friction and potential metal-to-metal contact.
3. Positive Displacement Oil Pumps: Positive displacement oil pumps are designed to supply a certain volume of oil at a specified pressure to the engine components. During cranking without starting, the oil pump might not be delivering oil at the optimal rate and pressure. This can affect the formation of a hydrodynamic lubrication film, leading to inadequate separation between surfaces and increased wear.
4. Start-Stop Cycles: Repeatedly cranking the engine without starting it could lead to multiple start-stop cycles. Each start-stop cycle can contribute to additional wear on the engine components, as the initial moments of startup and shutdown involve different conditions than steady-state operation.

Starting the engine normally allows the lubrication system to function as intended, establishing a proper hydrodynamic lubrication film that minimizes metal-to-metal contact and reduces wear. The engine's components are designed to operate under specific conditions, and cranking without starting might deviate from these conditions, potentially causing accelerated wear and reducing the engine's overall lifespan.
It's important to follow proper operating procedures and manufacturer recommendations for starting and operating your engine to ensure optimal performance and longevity while minimizing unnecessary wear on critical components.

Interesting.

#1 Says "might not". So inconclusive.

#2 Says "can lead" and " potential". I call that vague.

#3 Says "might not". Not very certain

#4 Says "repeatedly cranking the engine without starting" Who would do that? I still don't think it hurts anything.

I see that you disagree with me and that's fine. Flood mode works great on my 2002 Explorer if it sits for a few days. No more cam phaser rattle.

I do think that Ford Boss has things right. Link below.

 

[Johnkn]

That method has been discredited.
The engine cranks, internal bearings move, rings move over the bores, regardless of whether you slow-crank or just start the thing up. Useless method. Best to at least partially-fill the oil filter before putting a new one on.

Please explain to us which 'Internal bearings move' in a Ford Maverick engine...

You really shouldn't cut and paste things you don't know anything about....


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[Johnkn]

Come back and discuss it when you have a Mechanical Engineering degree and understand hydrodynamic, boundary and mixed-regime tribology in the main bearings and valve train, and positive displacement oil pumps.

You can see how it's a bit complicated to explain.

Come back and discuss it when you understand it.... Many of us here learned those most simple automotive ICE principles at age 16... Again, you are cutting and pasting words you clearly don't understand....



.

 

[Ranch]

Come back and discuss it when you understand it.... Many of us here learned those most simple automotive ICE principles at age 16... Again, you are cutting and pasting words you clearly don't understand....



.

I at least learned a new word "tribology".

I've never thought about main bearings moving. I always thought they were stationary and the crankshaft moved.

But what do I know?

 

[Johnkn]

I at least learned a new word "tribology".

I've never thought about main bearings moving. I always thought they were stationary and the crankshaft moved.

But what do I know?

Well, in a Maverick engine, if your crank or rod bearing are moving you have bigger issues...

I'm not certain what bearing configuration the turbo uses, whether needle, sleeve, or ball, but at cranking speed there is no load on them.....


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[Steve Urquell]

Since I've been prefilling oil filters for the last 40 years with no engine damage or problems and it does not bother me to do it I will continue to do so. That includes 20 years as a diesel mechanic maintaining truck fleets where you dang sure better prefill your filters.

Y'all do what you want but you should make sure that your vehicle actually has "clear flood mode" before doing it lol.
https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/how-much-damage-could-i-have-done.350786/

 

[NJBob]

When I brought my truck in for an oil change the dealer talked me out of full synthetic. Said the semi synthetic is fine. Found it strange they would be trying to save me money. In my F150 I used synthetic mostly because of the low volatility. Less fumes to cause carbon buildup in a DI turbo engines.

 

[commadorebob]

I have found simply starting the engine and letting it run for a minute works fine. I've never had the engine be a point of failure for a vehicle.

 

[Jakeley]

Hi all,
I did the first oil change today, at 4258 miles.
Dash oil life is saying i have 68% oil life remaining.
The oil I used was the mobil 1 full synthetic 5w-30 which meets all the ford requirements. It cost just a little more than the motorcraft blend at walmart. Why not use full synthetic?
Filter I used was the mobil 1 102a filter, which is good for 20k miles. But I'll do another oil change at about 10k, by which time there should be around 30% oil life remaining. I am not resetting the oil life meter for this "break-in" oil change. That will probably be about 3 months from now.
I think the most difficult thing is to remove all those screws. There are many of them for the protective splash shield.
The oil plug was super dupe tight. Defintely not 20ft/lb torque. I had to use an extension bar. It's 15mm socket. After letting all old oil dripped I retighten it to about 20 ft/lb, maybe a little less. I don't want oil plug to be super duper tight.
The oil filter can be removed with a filter wrench. I put a little bit of oil into the new filter before screw it on. It was hand tightened. I'm pretty strong so my hand tighten means tight.
I watched and made sure there's no leaking or dripping of any kind, before I put back the guard/shield, and screw back the many screws. It's either T25 or T30 I don't remember.
After that I did a test drive. I swear the engine sounds a little better with mobil 1. Maybe I'm hearing things? but I do feel a little bit smoother.

I apologize up front if this is a stupid question. However, I'm not an expert in new car purchases and so spoke to my dealer about break in and oil change recommendations. He told me to use the oil life indicator to guide the oil changes. Should I be ignoring that - at least initially - and change the oil at an earlier interval? My current oil life indicates 70% with ~4500 miles. Should I be changing it early? (I fully agree on the full synthetic BTW!). Thank you for the guidance.

 

[Franko]

You may want to get some extra splash shield bolts and the insert they screw into sooner or later you going to drop a screw or strip out the insert the screw fits into. just a friendly suggestion!

I found that the bed d rings and the other bed hold down screws are torx plus heads. They are squared off more than the torx head. Using the standard torx head tool can strip the head. I had my Ford dealer change my oil at 5,000 miles and it cost me $45.00.

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