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Check your Tire pressures!

Skisail

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Max pressure will be on the tire sidewall. That should be a cold tire reading. The difference between that reading and the door reading will mean a difference of 5+/- mpg. Ford would like to see the higher figure, obviously. So they inflate to the higher figure. Also, if there is a slow leak, the truck gets a longer period of time to make it to the dealer before it is noticed, and maybe needs attention.
I always inflate to the higher figure, only at a HOT tire temp. Better handling on the street, better mileage. Learned a long time ago to NOT make this a cold tire reading, as you will gain a few more psi at speed, potentially dangerous if you meet a pothole. And as the tire ages, it will actually split between the treads. (Don’t ask me how I know!)
The max pressure on the tire has nothing to do with the correct pressure. The pressure on the door jam (plus or minus 3 or 4 lbs, at your option) is the correct answer.

Just google for 2 minutes and you will see the truth.
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Johnkn

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Max pressure will be on the tire sidewall. That should be a cold tire reading. The difference between that reading and the door reading will mean a difference of 5+/- mpg. Ford would like to see the higher figure, obviously. So they inflate to the higher figure. Also, if there is a slow leak, the truck gets a longer period of time to make it to the dealer before it is noticed, and maybe needs attention.
I always inflate to the higher figure, only at a HOT tire temp. Better handling on the street, better mileage. Learned a long time ago to NOT make this a cold tire reading, as you will gain a few more psi at speed, potentially dangerous if you meet a pothole. And as the tire ages, it will actually split between the treads. (Don’t ask me how I know!)
LOLLL, no the difference between the tire’s max inflation pressure and the suggested pressure on the door jam will not change the mileage 5 mpg. LOL

The reason Tires are initially overinflated on virtually all manufacturer’s vehicles is because of shipping and to insure the beads remains seated during shipping. Vehicles move much less when strapped down when the tires are inflated closer to their advertised maximum. Dealers should adjust tire pressure during the PDI, many do not...

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samesea2012

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Don't go by whats on the tire. Go by whats on the drivers side door sticker which I do believe is 35 psi. cold. Also don't trust whats on the display. Buy a good tire gage.
why wouldn't i trust whats on the display? isnt that the entire point of having it?
 

Champ

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I guess you all don't have a tire pyrometer ! One correct way to diagnose alignment problems and actually set the correct tire pressures to your specific tires, wheels and driving style. TPMS's are mainly to let you know you might have a major problem and to immediately manually check your tire's pressures! PS: TPM's also need replacing eventually! All new vehicles tires are overinflated as to prevent sidewall damage if transporting or storage lets to much air bleed out. Focus RSs, built in Germany, then sent to a port, eventually loaded on a boat, that then made a few port stops from Canada to Jax., sat some more till a train and then a car hauler took them to the dealers. They all also had spring blocks that many dealers failed to remove. First thing one needs to do? Loosen and properly torque the wheels and set your air pressures, using the gauge giving the middle reading of the three you own and always cross check against each other to get you basic settings. It looks like some Mavericks are taking longer to deliver than those Michelin tire equipped RS's did! Some had over 40 PSI when picked up after 45 days in transport. I did my own PDI, as I only trust myself.
 

Larrythelunatic

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LOLLL, no the difference between the tire’s max inflation pressure and the suggested pressure on the door jam will not change the mileage 5 mpg. LOL

The reason Tires are initially overinflated on virtually all manufacturer’s vehicles is because of shipping and to insure the beads remains seated during shipping. Vehicles move much less when strapped down when the tires are inflated closer to their advertised maximum. Dealers should adjust tire pressure during the PDI, many do not...

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You can laugh all you want. But until you inflate to the max on the sidewall, drive a tank full, then repeat with the max on the placard, YOU DON’T KNOW. I do know. Been doing the tire max for over 50 years. From two-seater sports cars (THAT’s redundant!), to sedans to pickups. And with the Maverick hybrid, it WILL be 5+/- MPG’s.
Don’t guess, figure, surmise. Try it and see. As the expression goes….
Live and learn.
 

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Larrythelunatic

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I guess you all don't have a tire pyrometer ! One correct way to diagnose alignment problems and actually set the correct tire pressures to your specific tires, wheels and driving style. TPMS's are mainly to let you know you might have a major problem and to immediately manually check your tire's pressures! PS: TPM's also need replacing eventually! All new vehicles tires are overinflated as to prevent sidewall damage if transporting or storage lets to much air bleed out. Focus RSs, built in Germany, then sent to a port, eventually loaded on a boat, that then made a few port stops from Canada to Jax., sat some more till a train and then a car hauler took them to the dealers. They all also had spring blocks that many dealers failed to remove. First thing one needs to do? Loosen and properly torque the wheels and set your air pressures, using the gauge giving the middle reading of the three you own and always cross check against each other to get you basic settings. It looks like some Mavericks are taking longer to deliver than those Michelin tire equipped RS's did! Some had over 40 PSI when picked up after 45 days in transport. I did my own PDI, as I only trust myself.
The pyrometer, as mentioned on another thread, is a great idea. Compare center to either edge, right and left, rear and front. Gonna try that!
 

clavicus

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Not sure if someone said this already but I recall they leave the factory overinflated to avoid issues of potential long term storage in the same spot affecting that static contact patch where the tires are resting. Not sure if that’s some bullshido or not.

Dunno why in any case the dealership doesn’t put it at 35 psi since that would make the ride seem smoother and more appropriate for test drives and such. Mine were like 40-42 at dealership, down to 35ish cold now after I bled them out at home. TPMS reads between 35 to 37ish depending on the angle of the dangle.
 

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Sjbuck2021

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why wouldn't i trust whats on the display? isnt that the entire point of having it?
The mpg on the dash is inaccurate so why would one trust the tire pressure reading?
 

clavicus

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The mpg on the dash is inaccurate so why would one trust the tire pressure reading?
Well it’s kinda relative. Always check against good tests when you can. But if one tire in TPMS is -10 from the others, that’s helpful. You likely have an issue to address. If the rising and sinking tide of all TPMS readings is non statically +/- 2, and you know you’ve checked them all relatively recently with your gauge, then it’s business as usual.

If your MPG reading says 20mpg for the first 10 minutes then vs 35mpg later once the system is warm and happy, again it’s a relative indicator in the moment. Always use your real world benchmarks over longer intervals to know the Truth you seek, and calibrate your interpretations of your electrologmological systems accordingly.
 
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tonyinsd

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For anyone believing that inflating your tire pressure from the manufacture's recommended pressures to the tires Max pressure, you will absolutely not gain 5 MPG....

;^)
Maybe five percent would be more accurate?

Even if it were true, you can buy a lot of gas for the two grand it cost to buy the PS4s on my Mustang. I'll go with the already stiff ride at the posted 32 PSI, slightly lower MPG and longer lasting tires.

I plan on doing the same for my Maverick when it arrives.
 
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Johnkn

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Maybe five percent would be more accurate?

Even if it were true, you can but a lot of gas for the two grand it cost to buy the PS4s on my Mustang. I'll go with the already stiff ride at the posted 32 PSI, slightly lower MPG and longer lasting tires.

I plan on doing the same for my Maverick when it arrives.
Agreed, start with the manufactures numbers and change as needed for your truck. Rear may need less, front may need more. Monitor tire wear and adjust as needed.


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Larrythelunatic

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Agreed, start with the manufactures numbers and change as needed for your truck. Rear may need less, front may need more. Monitor tire wear and adjust as needed.


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John, RGB, Tony,
If you haven’t tried it, YOU DON’T KNOW!
I’m done…….
 

tonyinsd

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Agreed, start with the manufactures numbers and change as needed for your truck. Rear may need less, front may need more. Monitor tire wear and adjust as needed.
Actually, I was wrong. Here is a real world test that Popular Mechanics did. Now, if we want to be pedantic about it, we could say it's one test and that we need more data points to draw a definitive conclusion. And that would be correct.

But as a proof of concept test, the negligible difference would be an indicator of a hypothesis that is not worth testing further.

https://www.popularmechanics.com/cars/a940/4199963/
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