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Changing to AGM

HeyBales

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Ahh, thank you for the clarification. I haven't dug deep enough into the weeds yet to get to that point. Appreciated.
Correcting myself - BECM likely has the management aspect to it.
BECM - Battery Energy Control Module
Bus: HSCAN
Part number: NZ68-10B687-BB

Then again the Body Control Module.
BdyCM - Body Control Module
Bus: HSCAN
Part number: MU5T-14B476-FCU

Those both have PID's that display BMS info Amps, Volts, SOC among other things.

Also the BECMB.
BECMB - Battery Energy Control Module B
Bus: HSCAN
Part number: HU5T-14G490-AF

Or maybe the BCM_C
BCM_C - Body Control Module C
Bus: HSCAN
Part number: LX6T-14D068-HAG

Someone may ask - what about the BCM_B?
Doesn't appear to be one.
Grief - no wonder this stuff is so jacked up.
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OneAlienBoi

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Do you mean recall, or reset, from the instructions you asked about?
I think you mean reset since the aspect of getting a recall done was a different post.

From manual - install battery, then BMS reset, then rest overnight to learn. (and dream)

If you reset and old battery is attached - it just got some measurements that will be bad for the new battery about to go in, and reported them to the BCM that is going to make decisions.
Maybe that gets corrected overnight, maybe not.
Like there was that recall that was meant to address the maverick's losing power due to the batteries having a low state of charge. From what I was told, this software recall improves several aspects of the battery management system.

But what I'm trying to ask is, if I swapped in a better battery, and got the power loss software recalls done, which improved the BMS or so some have claimed, would you also need to go in manually and reset the BMS, or would the software recall by itself be sufficient?

Should I get the power loss recalls done, and reset the BMS, or will just doing one or the other do the trick?
 
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HeyBales

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Like there was that recall that was meant to address the maverick's losing power due to the batteries having a low state of charge. From what I was told, this software recall improves several aspects of the battery management system.

But what I'm trying to ask is, if I swapped in a better battery, and got the power loss software recalls done, which improved the BMS or so some have claimed, would you also need to go in manually and reset the BMS, or would the software recall by itself be sufficient?

Should I get the power loss recalls done, and reset the BMS, or will just doing one or the other do the trick?
I'd do the upgrades first since they have some side effect of dealing with battery better.

They'd get reset during the routine anyway. Probably lose the figure for age of battery, which should be known and correct.

The BMS is literally just that little thing sitting on the battery negative terminal. It just reports the figures to several modules (BCM, BECM, ect), or at least to one that reports to others.
Maybe it holds the figures for age, but frankly seems goofy with more capable modules holding info.
Then again - goofy might be the kindest word to describe how Ford has done some of these systems.
 
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MakinDoForNow

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The way the BMS is hanging out over the open edge of the battery - not so sure it's getting a battery temp. Or anywhere near accurate if it has one.
Unlike some of the add on monitors that attach right to battery with tape.

Sure would be smart for temp be part of the equation on charging rate, since that is so controllable with the DC-DC method.

Then again - how in the world did all the years of ICE cars make it thru summer & winter charging just fine usually.
The BMS is taking the ambient temp then the BCM uses that along with how much current is captured by battery to determine how warm the battery is adjusting for battery type and days in service. Almost none of the batteries have actually been tested. I base this on the PID chart someone posted for an AGM. I'll see if I can find it. I believe the program is extensive and expect it to evolve where the batteries will have an RFID chip to tell manufacturer the specific charging parameters.
 

Random

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Maybe I'll order a Bluetooth thermometer I can see on my phone. It is prime discount sale today and tomorrow! (10/8/24-10/9/24). I haven't had either of mine fail to start but when I see 12.0 or less on my dash power point monitor in accessory in am will put my Noco g5 for 4-7 days so it can optimize sulfate & destratify. Happens about every other month. My XLT I try to drive 20-30 miles once every 7-10 days. I am in central Texas and park in 40°F garage so not much cold weather below 32°F but I do wonder how the BCM/BMS handles freezing temps on 12v.
You don’t need to drive for 4-7 days?
 

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Leand60

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And now on sale!

I have had a few "Deep Sleep" messages, but I was never unable to start my truck. I have been keeping a jump pack in the truck just in case.

:unsure: At this price it was it too good to pass up.

- I will just store it until the time comes that it is needed (not if but when the original Maverick battery becomes a problem).

1728412856251-59.jpg
Great minds think alike...
 

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battery swap has my subwoofer amp no longer working. hope nothing went wrong.
 

MakinDoForNow

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You don’t need to drive for 4-7 days?
If I do I will drive it and put Noco back on when I return. I do have 2 and are retired so I can just drive one if needed. The XLT has just over 2700 miles in 25 months. It has had 2 annual oil changes! Even before I was retired I rotated Noco about every three months but those cars did not have as much overnight drains so they may have seen two days out of a week for four weeks every three months. A battery just needs 100% with sulfate and stratification treatments. Love the maintainers. Gonna have big problem tomorrow or next day. Neighbor is upgrading his solar batteries and I am thinking of buying for scrap his 16 400amp 6 volt AGM's that work.
 

Random

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From what I read you need to disconnect the battery to do the maintenance treatment. Has that been your experience?
 

Jackovalltrades

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And now on sale!

I have had a few "Deep Sleep" messages, but I was never unable to start my truck. I have been keeping a jump pack in the truck just in case.

:unsure: At this price it was it too good to pass up.

- I will just store it until the time comes that it is needed (not if but when the original Maverick battery becomes a problem).

1728412856251-59.jpg
I had my dealer swap out my battery and within 10 days the deep sleep was back. I just ordered one of these too with little confidence in Ford's ability to provide a reliable solution.
 
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HeyBales

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@MakinDoForNow

Convinced me to get a NOCO Genius2, smaller version that still does the repair process, since I already have good charger maintainer Schumacher SC-1200A-CA.
(checking my Amazon history, appears I got a Battery Tender Plus during covid I don't know where it went - unless I bought for someone)

Left all night charging, from it's reported 53% SOC - usually just go until 100% reported, then let system learn overnight.
This morning 100% - 12.0 to 12.1 V, which multi-meter confirmed.
Now it was 60 F out, but still. Worse than normal.

Now, maybe I confused the system charging all night, charger uses maintenance level.

But going to get that NOCO for the repair process it has, see if any improvements.

ETA: Huh - pays to keep the manual around when you don't use the tool often. May have it anyway.
SC-1200A-CA - DESULFATION MODE
Desulfation could take 8 to 10 hours.
If desulfation fails, charging will abort and
the CHARGING
(yellow/orange) LED
will ash
 
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MakinDoForNow

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@MakinDoForNow

Convinced me to get a NOCO Genius2, smaller version that still does the repair process, since I already have good charger maintainer Schumacher SC-1200A-CA.
(checking my Amazon history, appears I got a Battery Tender Plus during covid I don't know where it went - unless I bought for someone)

Left all night charging, from it's reported 53% SOC - usually just go until 100% reported, then let system learn overnight.
This morning 100% - 12.0 to 12.1 V, which multi-meter confirmed.
Now it was 60 F out, but still. Worse than normal.

Now, maybe I confused the system charging all night, charger uses maintenance level.

But going to get that NOCO for the repair process it has, see if any improvements.

ETA: Huh - pays to keep the manual around when you don't use the tool often. May have it anyway.
SC-1200A-CA - DESULFATION MODE
Desulfation could take 8 to 10 hours.
If desulfation fails, charging will abort and
the CHARGING
(yellow/orange) LED
will ash
Great. Your SC-1200A maintenance level needs to run to completion and their should be some light or combination of all lights off to indicate completion. The reason it needs 8 to 10 hours is the very short pulses of higher voltage create heat which has to cool before next pulse. The genius 2 may be enough if you have the battery at 100% when you put it on. If the truck does it's random draw and is greater than 2 amps will that mess with its process? I don't think so, but? My Noco g5 has a repair mode but that is not automatic and when used battery has to be disconnected from vehicle. I have never used it. I ordered me a genius 10 on Amazon prime day deal $75.99 as it will do 6&12 volt deep cycle lead acid, AGM, LiFePO4. Got some batteries much bigger than g5 can handle.
 

CurtisB

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I had my dealer swap out my battery and within 10 days the deep sleep was back. I just ordered one of these too with little confidence in Ford's ability to provide a reliable solution.
We all told you so. You'll be happy with the AGM. Your freedom will soon be back!
 

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Back from ride - battery charged. Was 61%, now to 100%. 12.3 V resting. Turned charger off to look at those values. Turned back on. 53% SOC @ 12.3 V - and it's charging again.

I'm almost thinking I'd like this current battery that came with truck (mfg 2/24) to get a "newer" replacement OEM as it goes bad -under warranty.
Then start out with a maintenance program on one which hasn't sat around in truck on train and lot and was already who knows how old (can't read label for date code due to location - Spain though!)

And then when it goes bad despite maintenance - get the AGM.

Perhaps by then (chuckle) Ford will have a revamped BECM algorithm (LOL) to make my bought one last longer (snort).
I think I'm dreaming as badly as the batteries are doing in deep sleep mode.
 

AVC

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This has probably been posted before, but when looking for another setting in the Livinitup Forscan Excel I scrolled past some setting that appeared to change the target state of charge % for the 12v battery. Anybody tried this?

For a data point, my '23 Hybrid has never had the deep sleep issue, even after sitting for 5 days. I have the AutoUpdate turned on, as this drain has been suggested as a reason for the truck entering deep sleep. The only aftermarket accessory I have is the Kicker sub, which powers down shortly after the audio signal goes away.

I've never monitored the 12v charge state, but am now curious.
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