Change your PTU (Power Transfer Unit) / RDU (Rear Drive Unit) OIL!

[zach57x]

So the Hybrid FWD does not have a PTU ? Is that correct ? Thank You.

So nothing needs to be done here for Hybrids correct?

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[Tscottok]

So nothing needs to be done here for Hybrids correct?

Yeah, since the hybrids are front wheel drive only, and use a CVT transmission, I don't think you'll need to do this maintenance

 

[Narclepticfool]

Ill be curious to see how mine turns out. I have just over 15k on my '23 Lariat FX4 tow, and of those miles, almost 10k are towing, so I would classify mine as hard usage. I don't tow over the 4k limit, but i get pretty close to the limit some times.

I got the motorcraft fluids from the local dealer, and it was around $110 for the 2 quarts, but it sounds like I should get 2 changes of fluid out of that (about 16oz of new fluid in for RDU and PTU each?).

Also, someone mentioned using Lucas oil. Are aftermarket fluids ok to use? Are they recommended (by others than ford) and/or will they provide better protection that OEM?

 

[Tscottok]

Ill be curious to see how mine turns out. I have just over 15k on my '23 Lariat FX4 tow, and of those miles, almost 10k are towing, so I would classify mine as hard usage. I don't tow over the 4k limit, but i get pretty close to the limit some times.

I got the motorcraft fluids from the local dealer, and it was around $110 for the 2 quarts, but it sounds like I should get 2 changes of fluid out of that (about 16oz of new fluid in for RDU and PTU each?).

Also, someone mentioned using Lucas oil. Are aftermarket fluids ok to use? Are they recommended (by others than ford) and/or will they provide better protection that OEM?

Good call on the oil swap. If you're up for it, you can send some samples to testing agencies and they can send you a breakdown of what's in it to see if any particulate levels are high. Either way, I'm always of fan of changing fluids/lubricants more than the book.

For the replacement fluids, you definitely can use third-party (I used redline in my PTU), but there is a risk. Transmissions and differentials are built/tuned to a specific viscosity, friction, heat dissipation, etc. that's provided in OEM fluids. With third-parties, it's tougher to be sure you matching not only OEM, but changes Ford make over the years. For instance, the maverick uses the "ULV" transmission fluid and not the more common "LV" (my O'Reilly's did't even carry the ULV and I had to pick it up from Ford). Some third-party differential fluids also need friction modifiers to make them hit various company standards.
Now, how much of an impact all this actually has, is another story.

For my money, I'd stick with OEM. You don't want to mess with high precision stuff like transmissions/differentials. I used redline cause I was worried about high heat, but will probably use OEM next.

 

[bckrupps]

I did mine at 10k and feel comfortable doing it every 20k from now on. I will probably do a drain and fill on the transmission fluid every 25k since every I read seems to say not to flush. My last vehicle went 17 years and had a lot of life in it had i been able to do the maintenance items it needed due to age and heat. It’s worth over maintaining a bit as long as you reasonably split the difference imo

 

[Big Kahuna]

Had done my RDU previously at 65,000. Tonight did my ATF and PTU at 69,000. The PTU surprised me as not a whole lot came out and when I did the fill I couldn't event get 1/2 Q in before it started leaking back out the fill hole. I'd guess it only took about 12 ounces. This was on a completely level surface. I did pump extra in just to make sure and it leaked back out so I know that it was full.

Fluid had a good color - it did look like it had some metallic sheen to it but nothing out of the ordinary. Metallic drain plug didn't have an excessive amount on it.

ATF fluid was dirty but nothing awful and no metal in it.

I have only towed twice - and 90% of my driving is highway. Going forward I'll probably just do all three every 50K.

Still surprised how little fluid I was able to pump in to the PTU - it was less than the RDU for sure.

ATF was 5Q on the dot - I measured the dirty fluid and then added the same back in. One trick on the ATF - I let it drain until it was dripping slowly and left it that way for a while but then came back and the drip had changed back into a steady trickle - I think a lot of the people who say only 4.5 came out may not have given it as much time, but a full 5Q came out of mine.

 

[bgn]

Had done my RDU previously at 65,000. Tonight did my ATF and PTU at 69,000. The PTU surprised me as not a whole lot came out and when I did the fill I couldn't event get 1/2 Q in before it started leaking back out the fill hole. I'd guess it only took about 12 ounces. This was on a completely level surface. I did pump extra in just to make sure and it leaked back out so I know that it was full.

Fluid had a good color - it did look like it had some metallic sheen to it but nothing out of the ordinary. Metallic drain plug didn't have an excessive amount on it.

ATF fluid was dirty but nothing awful and no metal in it.

I have only towed twice - and 90% of my driving is highway. Going forward I'll probably just do all three every 50K.

Still surprised how little fluid I was able to pump in to the PTU - it was less than the RDU for sure.

ATF was 5Q on the dot - I measured the dirty fluid and then added the same back in. One trick on the ATF - I let it drain until it was dripping slowly and left it that way for a while but then came back and the drip had changed back into a steady trickle - I think a lot of the people who say only 4.5 came out may not have given it as much time, but a full 5Q came out of mine.

Make sure that you get the transmission fluid up to 185 to 200° F before you close up the drain plug.

 

[Big Kahuna]

Make sure that you get the transmission fluid up to 185 to 200° F before you close up the drain plug.

I did the shortcut method as did the service on 4 ramps and couldn't take the wheel off - so I put back what I took out. Measured it all carefully with plastic 2 QT container. 5Q out and 5Q back in.

 

[Cherokee]

Then there’s me,
528,000 trouble free miles on my Tacoma before the engine started loosing compression. Imagine that !
I never touched the rear differential.

394,000 on my Jeep Cherokee. Wore that motor out.
Never touched my rear pickle.

It’s a crap shoot. Odds are with you you’ll be fine but still.
Fluid changes are really cheap insurance.

 

[KenE]

You'll be fine.

Yes, ramps are fine. I did both PTU & RDU yesterday, using ramps. PTU fill plug (8mm hex) is awkward but once you get your arms in correct position not too bad. Good feeling to have those fluids done early on. I have 4,100 miles on ODO.

 

[Cancunbadlands]

A Fluid change is a really cheap insurance.

 

[KenE]

A Fluid change is a really cheap insurance.

Yes indeed. If not for all the info I've received in this forum I probably wouldn't have changed those fluids. Cheap insurance for sure.

 

[Darryl]

You guys should stop quoting this:
You can also see some examples of higher mileage Mavericks that are already hitting transmission trouble. Daniel Deliverz has a great YouTube channel on the Mav (check it out here) and his blew at ~85,000 miles! He ran what I'd call "medium" duty, and hadn't swapped any trans fluids, but 85k is nuts for transmission that needed a complete replacement.

IT WAS A BROKEN WIRE. Not a blown transmission.

While I have no issues with someone changing their fluids more than required, I suspect that some may be causing more alarm than necessary. The escape AWD has been out for years. The Bronco and Maverick have been on the road for a decent amount of time also. But we don't see many ptu problems.

 

[Darryl]

I was thi

I was going to say the same thing, it looks normal. I'm not saying don't change it but if you don't and wait for the scheduled main't you will be fine.

I'm thinking the same thing. The original fluid often has a different appearance. Ford has mentioned it before. As for the metal on the magnet, that's normal for a new vehicle. The magnet is doing it's job. And the rate of metal accumulation has already slowed. . Obviously if a person is towing or doing something else the manual lists as severe service, they should change it according to the severe service schedule. Otherwise, follow the normal schedule. They'll be fine.

 

[Mudduck]

I have been in the Jeep world since I was 15. Lots of modding, axle and gear swaps too. I just upgraded my axles to Fuzion 1 tons, and regeared them to 538s. Anytime I get a new ride or swap gears, I heat cycle, change fluid at 500 miles then again at another 1000 miles, then once a year after (unless submerged) then ill change the day I get home.

Not everyone is DIY capable. This is expensive to some folks that are not. If you are DIY capable, 30-45 minutes, a beer and $40.00 is (like someone else said) "Cheap insurance". You cannot overservice some things.

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