Battery Monitoring System, BMS, settings in ForeScan...

[colinl]

Has anyone noticed there are two battery options on the Ecoboost 760cca and a 700. Then hybrid one option 450cca.

Memory bit fuzzy so my numbers might be slightly off but two options on the eco is interesting.

Also looking online, bunch are on backorder. Are we really sitting in some of the worst batteries around ?

yeah. the enhanced flooded (EF) battery is 700cca and the AGM is 760cca.

I would not be overly surprised if it's the same battery has this one:
https://www.walmart.com/ip/EverStar...ve-Battery-Group-H6-12-Volt-760-CCA/944775111

Walmart's AGM batteries are the best value I've seen. Granted, I have only bought one and it's less than a year old so I have no idea about longevity, but considering it costs half what an Optima yellow top does, I would set your expectations accordingly.

You can get the Ford 760cca AGM battery from your local Ford dealership, earn and use Fordpass points. From the discount online Ford parts dealers, its about the same cost as the Walmart battery, and I would guess that some dealerships charge a lot more.

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[23grayXLT84]

yeah. the enhanced flooded (EF) battery is 700cca and the AGM is 760cca.

I would not be overly surprised if it's the same battery has this one:
https://www.walmart.com/ip/EverStar...ve-Battery-Group-H6-12-Volt-760-CCA/944775111

Walmart's AGM batteries are the best value I've seen. Granted, I have only bought one and it's less than a year old so I have no idea about longevity, but considering it costs half what an Optima yellow top does, I would set your expectations accordingly.

You can get the Ford 760cca AGM battery from your local Ford dealership, earn and use Fordpass points. From the discount online Ford parts dealers, its about the same cost as the Walmart battery, and I would guess that some dealerships charge a lot more.

What gives the two options on the Ecoboost though ?

 

[colinl]

What gives the two options on the Ecoboost though ?

I believe that Ford wants to use AGM batteries, but yet some trucks got built with EF batteries. There's been a few threads about it, but there are a few - very few from what I've seen but hardly scientific - MY22 ecoboost that came with an AGM battery. I would guess they simply didn't have the AGM batteries on hand and used EF instead of waiting.

Early MY23s were all coming with the AGM battery. However, I would not be surprised if there are some MY23 or MY24 ecoboost trucks with EF batteries.

 

[Automate]

I believe that Ford wants to use AGM batteries, but yet some trucks got built with EF batteries. There's been a few threads about it, but there are a few - very few from what I've seen but hardly scientific - MY22 ecoboost that came with an AGM battery. I would guess they simply didn't have the AGM batteries on hand and used EF instead of waiting.

Early MY23s were all coming with the AGM battery. However, I would not be surprised if there are some MY23 or MY24 ecoboost trucks with EF batteries.

The optional factory 120VAC inverter might be a factor also. I know the 22 Ecoboosts with the inverter got a larger alternator.

 

[colinl]

The optional factory 120VAC inverter might be a factor also. I know the 22 Ecoboosts with the inverter got a larger alternator.

I've got a lariat lux with both inverters, and EF battery. I didn't look at the battery in my first edition. Pretty sure it's just AGM if they have it in stock, EF if not.

 

[23grayXLT84]

Looks like for eco's Ford puts in whatever ships as long as it's 700 and above.

Hybrid gets lowest of all and IMO Ford underestimated actual needs. Bet at refresh they will sneak in improvements and leave us all hanging.

Putting in whatever ships makes sense as even hybrid owners report AGM default in Forscan.

 

[Sagara]

I am not inclined either and that is what stopping me from changing it. Although the lost time spent on figuring out what's wrong the the battery/charging system and visits to the dealer is not the best way to go. Started lean into the direction of just replace the battery myself with the winter around the corner. I can't have this truck not starting...



The BSM does evaluate the status of the battery, if the power draw is less than 300 mA when the vehicle is off.

Most of the dash cams draw 200 - 400 mA nowadays, certainly depends on the resolution and other features. Even if you don't take into account the vehicle key-off draw of around 50 - 100 mA, the dash cam in itself can prevent the BMS to learn the status of the battery.

How did you change the SoC target, would you share it with us? Thx...

Ugh, I hope to god the dashcam isn't pulling 200-400mA in parking mode (shock sensor not time-lapse).

The truck has started everytime even when it was -50C here for a few days. Though, I do carry a NOCO jump pack in case as well.

I'll take screenshots using Forscan for Windows when I got a moment to spare. Not entirely sure if it works correctly in setting the BMS target, which itself is problematic.

Charging & diagnosing the battery is fairly frustrating. If you try to toss it on a charger after a drive, it thinks the battery is at a higher state of charge and it charges at a lower current.

Battery tested at 11.9-12V, 30% SoC, tossed it on a NOCO G7200 (older model). Showed 100% on the charger after an hour, tested at 60%, 12.2—12.4V (BA9 tester). The float charge makes it difficult to diagnose correctly, unless you leave it sitting for hours or run a bunch of electrical loads to bring the voltage down before testing.

 

[Bob The Builder]

Currently my AGM reads 12.16V on my Fluke RMS MM. A.S.S. has not worked since the first week I have owned the truck. Everything else is working fine including heated seats and steering wheel and DRL on.

I get tons of conflicting info on the internet. One web site says any reading above 11.70V is considered in the normal range for a AGM given their higher amperage capacity. Others say the Total opposite.

Ford says drive it more and be glad you are not driving an F-150, they are worse in this regard.

Thinking of getting a NOCO just to have it but shudder at the thought of having to use it periodically. I dunno.

 

[Bob The Builder]

Ugh, I hope to god the dashcam isn't pulling 200-400mA in parking mode (shock sensor not time-lapse).

The truck has started everytime even when it was -50C here for a few days. Though, I do carry a NOCO jump pack in case as well.

I'll take screenshots using Forscan for Windows when I got a moment to spare. Not entirely sure if it works correctly in setting the BMS target, which itself is problematic.

Charging & diagnosing the battery is fairly frustrating. If you try to toss it on a charger after a drive, it thinks the battery is at a higher state of charge and it charges at a lower current.

Battery tested at 11.9-12V, 30% SoC, tossed it on a NOCO G7200 (older model). Showed 100% on the charger after an hour, tested at 60%, 12.2—12.4V (BA9 tester). The float charge makes it difficult to diagnose correctly, unless you leave it sitting for hours or run a bunch of electrical loads to bring the voltage down before testing.

These are the types of things going on I just do not understand. I'm an electrician but I freely admit this stuff with AGM batteries and the Ford BMS is way above my pay grade.

 

[B2000]

Only issue I have had was with start/stop not working pretty much since I got my truck. I suspected the battery and when the dealer tested it they said it was 56%. I don't put on a lot of miles but drive it 3-5 days per week. Dealer suggested putting a battery tender on it. I did and charged it up to 100% according to my cheap amazon battery tester- 13.13 volts. Two hours later (60 degrees in the garage) it was down 10%. 24 hours later it was down about 25% on voltage meter. Had a friend check the cranking amps with a Snap-On tester and it was about 95% but then I had driven it to his house.

Dealer did not give any direction about how to hook up the battery tender so I used the terminals and not the ground. I suspect the charging system never gets the battery anywhere close to 100% as others have said. If start/stop does not work below 70% charge that means for me it will probably not work most of the time.

I have my lithium jump starter in the vehicle for the cold weather.

 

[Sagara]

Currently my AGM reads 12.16V on my Fluke RMS MM. A.S.S. has not worked since the first week I have owned the truck. Everything else is working fine including heated seats and steering wheel and DRL on.

I get tons of conflicting info on the internet. One web site says any reading above 11.70V is considered in the normal range for a AGM given their higher amperage capacity. Others say the Total opposite.

Ford says drive it more and be glad you are not driving an F-150, they are worse in this regard.

Thinking of getting a NOCO just to have it but shudder at the thought of having to use it periodically. I dunno.

Yeah, that's the problem. I do have a NOCO charger and use it once a week. The battery voltage goes down to 12V or less, in a day or two. The Auto Stop Start not working isn't the end of the world, though not being able to use the app or entering the vehicle with no interior lights sucks.

At first, I thought it was my dashcam. However, it appears to still occur even with it disconnected (at the USB-C).

 

[GPSMan]

Can we all clarify something please!

Can we state clearly if our batteries are losing charge overnight

IN THE TRUCK / CONNECTED

or

ON THE BENCH / DISCONNECTED

My battery has never been out of the truck.

My battery loses charge overnight (or during the day at work) WHILE CONNECTED TO THE TRUCK.

We need to conclude if it is a battery problem or truck problem. Need to do a bench test or swap batteries with a different vehicle. I'm lazy and I drive every day so have never removed the stock battery from the truck.

 

[Bob The Builder]

Can we all clarify something please!

Can we state clearly if our batteries are losing charge overnight

IN THE TRUCK / CONNECTED

or

ON THE BENCH / DISCONNECTED

My battery has never been out of the truck.

My battery loses charge overnight (or during the day at work) WHILE CONNECTED TO THE TRUCK.

We need to conclude if it is a battery problem or truck problem. Need to do a bench test or swap batteries with a different vehicle. I'm lazy and I drive every day so have never removed the stock battery from the truck.

Is there anything wrong with just simply disconnecting both terminals, but leave the battery in the truck thus creating a true open circuit to the battery? I cannot imagine for the life of me there would be but assume nothing with these modern rolling computer vehicles. Lot easier on the back then lifting that bad boy out of the truck.

I forgot to check voltage today to see if anything changed from yesterday's reading of 12.16. I can live with that reading because losing A.S.S. is a non issue for me. Losing interior lighting and the app with remote start with winter in full mode here now is and will be an issue.

Gonna keep putzing with this, but some of this shit is above my pay grade. I am so hesitant to load for scan on my Win10 computer and boost the charge ceiling to 90%. Beside, I am not even confident that will do anything in the long term.

I'm suspecting, with no hard facts to back me up, that the culprit is that telemetry gizmo that feeds all our personal data to Ford. I would have no idea how to even investigate that or do anything about it.

 

[GPSMan]

Right- disconnect but leaving in truck would be same as "bench test" unless you have crazy cold (-40) climate or something.

 

[Silver23]

Just FYI, Flooded cell and AGM have different charge voltages.
I double checked mine with Forscan and it is set to AGM and 80% charge.
If I had a problem I would change it, but I don't.


This site says AGM's are best kept kept charged to at least 50%.

I have always read any lead acid battery is best kept at 100%. AGM's are lead-acid.

https://www.crownbattery.com/news/agm-vs-flooded-batteries-what-you-need-to-know

Makes me wonder if the truck is programmed to AGM and has a flooded, and that is why so many have low batteries??

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