- Thread starter
- #1
Has anyone used the method shown in the You Tube video link below to do the rear brakes when brake maintenance doesn't work? Just wondering if it was successful or if you ran into any problems.
Sponsored
Sponsored
2022 Maverick workaround for not being able to go into brake maintenance mode for rear brakes
- Thread starter AltoBlueLariat
- Start date
- Watchers 8
Wow, that seems like it's easier than messing with getting it in the maintenance mode. I don't see where you could mess up unless you're one of those hammer mechanics.
- First Name
- Mike
- Joined
- May 3, 2024
- Threads
- 4
- Messages
- 4,827
- Reaction score
- 4,371
- Location
- KC Metro area
- Vehicle(s)
- 2005 Toyota RAV4, 2024 XLT Hybrid
- Engine
- 2.5L Hybrid
May be easier than using 9V battery to retract the motor, which needs to be done while caliper still on - since you may get the direction wrong initially and push it out, before going other direction for retraction.
If the maintenance mode works though - that's still way easier.
That mode also disables the EBB - which also has the ability to fire off - but it's not on all EB's.
Is on hybrids.
I thought the failure was only on the EPB part of the mode, but the EBB disable still worked?
If the maintenance mode works though - that's still way easier.
That mode also disables the EBB - which also has the ability to fire off - but it's not on all EB's.
Is on hybrids.
I thought the failure was only on the EPB part of the mode, but the EBB disable still worked?
I didn't watch till the end, but the method I used on cars ranging from a Honda HRV to an Audi Q7 is to unplug the electrical connector then use a 9 volt battery and some jumper wires with alligator clips.
You connect the + and - from the battery to the leads and watch what the piston does - if it extends you just reverse the two leads and let the motor retract the piston all the way. Takes all of 30 seconds
You connect the + and - from the battery to the leads and watch what the piston does - if it extends you just reverse the two leads and let the motor retract the piston all the way. Takes all of 30 seconds
OP
OP
- Thread starter
- #5
Well I am going to give it a go seeing as the dealer wanted $700 to do the rears. Will let you know how it went in a couple of weeks after all of the parts arrive.
Last edited:
Sponsored
- First Name
- Chip
- Joined
- Dec 14, 2022
- Threads
- 1
- Messages
- 81
- Reaction score
- 97
- Location
- Oxford. MI
- Vehicle(s)
- 2022 Maverick Lariat FX4
- Engine
- 2.0L EcoBoost
Hi have only used this method and have had no issues. I have done this on a Subaru, Kia and my Maverick. Way easier than all the “Approved” methods in my opinion.
OP
OP
- Thread starter
- #7
The only thing I am not sure about is if I remove the actuator motor as shown in the video, do I still need a caliper compression tool that will turn the caliper piston or will it just push in?
Sounds like rotate them in:
https://www.mavericktruckclub.com/f...ds-piston-compression-tool.74280/post-1298234
Worth knowing: the 2022 Maverick brake maintenance mode issue is actually a known limitation in the IPC module. FORScan has a service procedure that can trigger brake maintenance mode directly through the BCM even when the menu option is greyed out or not working through the cluster. If you have an OBD2 adapter you can initiate the EPB retraction procedure from the service functions menu without physically disconnecting anything. Saves the 9V battery juggling and you still get the pistons fully retracted before swapping pads. That said, the manual removal method works fine too -- either way you do not need the caliper compression tool once the motor is disconnected, just a standard cube-style brake tool to turn it.
OP
OP
- Thread starter
- #10
Thanks, good to know regarding the compression tool.
Sponsored
OP
OP
- Thread starter
- #11
I did the rear brake job using the method in the video I posted and it worked just fine with no issues. I have very basic home auto mechanic skills and thought it was an easy job. A 5 mm and 8 mm hex socket bits, a 13 mm socket, a swivel socket, and a caliper compression/winding tool, brake cleaner, and brake grease is pretty much all that is needed.
I bought the Powerstop X23 front and rear brake pads and rotors from Rockauto for $354 including tax and shipping. I'll do the fronts at some point.
I bought the Powerstop X23 front and rear brake pads and rotors from Rockauto for $354 including tax and shipping. I'll do the fronts at some point.
- First Name
- Retired
- Joined
- Oct 8, 2021
- Threads
- 15
- Messages
- 2,513
- Reaction score
- 4,273
- Location
- SE Ohio 🇺🇸
- Website
- sunsetridgecabinhockinghills.com
- Vehicle(s)
- '24 Mustang Mach-E P4X, '24 Bronco Big Bend 2Dr Sasquatch, Hot Rods
- Engine
- 2.0L EcoBoost
Just finished up replacing my rear pads (62k), found something interesting about the pad design, might help others in the future.
The shape of the pad material is stepped, so I ended up having more pad left than I thought....the flat surface I thought was the backing plate, is actually a couple more mm's of pad, so I had maybe 4-5mm of pad left, before the scraper hit the rotor. Not a big deal, they needed to be replaced, but anyone in the same situation, you likely have a few thousand more miles, if you want to push it...
Just FYI... here is a pic. (I also did the manual method to retract the EPB, worked perfectly...)
The shape of the pad material is stepped, so I ended up having more pad left than I thought....the flat surface I thought was the backing plate, is actually a couple more mm's of pad, so I had maybe 4-5mm of pad left, before the scraper hit the rotor. Not a big deal, they needed to be replaced, but anyone in the same situation, you likely have a few thousand more miles, if you want to push it...
Just FYI... here is a pic. (I also did the manual method to retract the EPB, worked perfectly...)
Sponsored
