2000 Watt Removable Inverter Installation

[jerrisn]

One suggestion would be to clamp aluminum angle stock to the bed side rails using side clamps, similar to clamping Elevate rails or a tonneau cover. That would give you a drillable horizontal surface to bolt down the panels. Loosening the clamps would make it relatively easy to temporarily remove the whole thing in one piece if you needed the bed for cargo.

I considered using angle stock to reinforce the panels and enhance their rigidity while physically linking them. I also pondered using clamps similar to the following to secure the panels akin to a regular tonneau cover. However, I hesitated because each panel weighs about 24lbs, and I wasn't certain if these clamps could be relied upon. I understand your suggestion, but my only concern is whether they might potentially slide off, or perhaps I'm misunderstanding your idea.

Also, my intent was not to hijack this thread.

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[Decayed]

I just want to run a coffee pot for camping, LOL I was really disappointed when the AC plug in the bed would not run it... LOL This is great!

FWIW you can get 400 watt kettles on amazon that *should* work, then use a french press or pour-over. Probably take forever to boil though.

Honestly I have not found a better, more convenient camping stove than the butane cartridge type. They are very stable because they are flat and burn just as hot as the gas burner on a stove.

https://www.amazon.com/Gas-GS-1000G-Portable-Butane-Stove/dp/B08WTNVPB7/ref=sr_1_4?sr=8-4

 

[Maverstang]

I considered using angle stock to reinforce the panels and enhance their rigidity while physically linking them. I also pondered using clamps similar to the following to secure the panels akin to a regular tonneau cover. However, I hesitated because each panel weighs about 24lbs, and I wasn't certain if these clamps could be relied upon. I understand your suggestion, but my only concern is whether they might potentially slide off, or perhaps I'm misunderstanding your idea.

Also, my intent was not to hijack this thread.

Those side clamps I pictured are very strong and are used to clamp down racks which experience heavy loads. Especially the Elevate Racks, which carry very heavy loads like canoes and ladders above the cab. They will not come off!

This is a typical elevate rail application. Clamp the angle stock face to face on the vertical side rails in the same manner, but facing inwards. Align them so the flat horizontal surface lines up with the plastic surface with the foam seal. Drill appropriate holes and bolt down the PV panels.

The items you pictured are some light duty tonneau hold downs which probably aren’t suitable for the job.

 

[TheWizziard]

Here is information on my removable inverter installation and results. My vehicle is a MY24 Lariat with remote start and lux' package, but I suspect XL and XLT vehicles will work similarly.

I originally made this post here, but I thought a search for inverter installations might return better results if I made this a post of its own.

Parts Used:

• 2/0 AWG-3/8" Wire Lugs Ring Terminal Connectors (should have gotten 1/4")
• Clear Shell ANL Fuse Holder and 200 Amp 32 VDC ANL Fuses
• Renogy 2000W Pure Sine Wave Inverter
• 2/0 Gauge AWG Welding Lead & Car Battery Cable Wire
• 2/0 Gauge 350 Amp Battery Quick Connectors
• Hammer Lug Crimper Tool

Usage Notes:

• Turn on vehicle into ready state (foot on break when starting)
  • Turn off lights
  • Turn off air conditioning or heater
  • Turn off heated seats and/or steering wheel
  • Turn off any other powered accessories as able
  • Open vehicle menu
  • Go to Settings
  • Go to Vehicle
  • Uncheck "30 min. max idle"
    • Keys must be left in vehicle or this will automatically cancel in about 20 minutes and vehicle will shut off
    • I tested a 1750 watt load for about an hour and and a no load for about a half hour, so I expect this inverter setup will work until the vehicle runs out of gas
• With an approximate 1750 watt continuous load
  • The internal combustion engine (ICE) will cycle through approximately 3 minutes running and 3 minutes off
  • Running this cycle for over an hour, the inverter got only slightly warm and the cables remained cool
• With no load except for the inverter idle power consumption
  • The ICE will cycle through approximately 3 minutes running and 20 minutes off
• I tried some lesser loads, like 2 incandescent bulbs and a blow dryer on low
  • The cycle was about 3 minutes with the ICE running and 12 minutes off
• I didn't use the cables that came with the inverter
  • I used this wiring size calculator to determine my cable requirements
  • You'll note in the image that my cables are much longer than needed to sit the inverter on the seat or floor, so I'll be shortening them a foot or two soon to reduce the voltage drop and increase efficiency

My expected uses for this setup is to supply occasional power to appliances during an extended power outage, to supply power for my wood working tools (lathe, drill, grinder, etc.) when doing demos and craft shows where AC power is not available, and possibly when car camping. Thus, I didn't want to make a permanent installation of the inverter behind or under the seat. Having it sit on top the back seat or on the floor is fine. I'll store the inverter, with the cables and quick-connect attached) in the closet until I need it.

PS. I don't have any device or combinationof devices that I intend to power that has a full load draw over 1000 watts.

PPS. Image file added.

PPPS. Cables shortened to about two feet. Inverter now needs to sit on the floorboards.

Nice clean install and a great write-up.

 

[jerrisn]

Those side clamps I pictured are very strong and are used to clamp down racks which experience heavy loads. Especially the Elevate Racks, which carry very heavy loads like canoes and ladders above the cab. They will not come off!

This is a typical elevate rail application. Clamp the angle stock face to face on the vertical side rails in the same manner, but facing inwards. Align them so the flat horizontal surface lines up with the plastic surface with the foam seal. Drill appropriate holes and bolt down the PV panels.

The items you pictured are some light duty tonneau hold downs which probably aren’t suitable for the job.

I see what you mean now. I might give that method a try. Since my current setup doesn't easily come off, I usually have to climb into the bed to add or remove the panels. It's a fairly simple process, so this method could work well too. If I can use angle stock to connect the two panels and then secure them to the bed, that would be a win. I'll have to start a separate thread on the process.

 

[TheWizziard]

I've thought the same, but I'm not sure it would work during the night. I haven't measured the decibels on the truck, but it's not that quiet. I know if I were in a nearby tent or pop-up, I'd be knocking on your camper to say to turn it off. You'll also need a theft deterrent, since you are leaving the keys in the vehicle. Possibly one of those steering wheel clubs. I know I can lock the vehicle with a second set of keys still in it, but if someone jimmies the door or breaks a window, they can just drive off.

I am repurposing an old Club that I used in a previous vehicle for just this purpose.

 

[mk1010]

I'll have to start a separate thread on the process.

I'm looking forward to your new thread.

Thanks for the detailed write up of your current solar panel mounting setup.

 

[TimeOutside]

RE: Solar Panels/QUOTE]
I'm thinking this topic deserves its own thread. People are much less likely to see it when piggybacked on a thread about inverters.

 

[Mav4us]

I built my own portable power generator that has similar specs. Your post inspired me to consider a more permanent install. Is there an easy way to pass wires from the cab to the bed? Particularly thick wires like 2/0 gauge? How is that quick connect working for you?

 

[CurtisB]

I've installed two 200Watt solar panels, each measuring ‎55.5"L x 27.6"W x 1.2"H, on my truck bed. To secure them, I used camper seal tape along the frame of each panel, between the bed and panel, and in the middle between the panels. Additionally, I placed a piece of thicker foam between the panels and the front of the cab for extra protection. Currently, the panels are clamped with C-Clamps and secured with a steel cable as a safety tether. While this setup is temporary and I'm exploring better mounting options, it's worth noting that the panels are stationary and restrict the use of the bed for hauling larger items like refrigerators. However, since I seldom use the bed for such purposes and have access to a Tundra for heavier hauling, I find that the convenience of easy access to items in the bed from the tailgate outweighs this limitation. It's also worth mentioning that the panels fit perfectly on top and require no modification, other than clamping into place. They can be configured for either 12 or 24 volts, depending on preference. Additionally, tempered glass solar panels should be rated for small hail, but I typically keep the truck in the garage, so this isn't a major concern for me.

Just call him "sparky"

 

[TheWizziard]

I built my own portable power generator that has similar specs. Your post inspired me to consider a more permanent install. Is there an easy way to pass wires from the cab to the bed? Particularly thick wires like 2/0 gauge? How is that quick connect working for you?

Suggestion: put the inverter closer to the battery. E.g. under or behind the seat, Then run smaller 110v AC wires to the bed.

 

[TimeOutside]

I built my own portable power generator that has similar specs. Your post inspired me to consider a more permanent install. Is there an easy way to pass wires from the cab to the bed? Particularly thick wires like 2/0 gauge? How is that quick connect working for you?

Suggestion: put the inverter closer to the battery. E.g. under or behind the seat, Then run smaller 110v AC wires to the bed.

The quick connect is great! I have nothing negative to say about it.

I believe it is this thread where folks go into routing cables to the bed. But TheWizziard is correct. For 110v AC, it is much better to put the inverter near the battery and run a smaller AC cord to the bed than it is to running thick DC cables to an inverter in the bed. If you want to make a 15' run with DC to just a 1000 watt inverter (85 amps) in the bed then you'll need 4/0 cable to keep it to a 1% voltage drop. (See the cable calculator here.) With passing AC to the bed you just need a normal outdoor extension cord.

 

[m5040]

Too bad Ford didn't offer this as a factory setup instead of the 400 watt plug.

Why did you choose/limit your install to that wattage and not higher?

 

[TimeOutside]

Too bad Ford didn't offer this as a factory setup instead of the 400 watt plug.

Why did you choose/limit your install to that wattage and not higher?

The Maverick i intended to be a budget vehicle. I can see why they limited the output to 400 watts. It's inexpensive, easy, and accommodates a huge variety of common needs for power in a vehicle. If one wants to power their home or commercial equipment then they can buy an F150.

I chose 2000 watts because it will power everything I need powered (see first post). A 3k watt inverter costs substantially more for no actual benefit. Cabling would be impractical at best. A 1k watt inverter would have met my minimum requirements, but 2k allows a degree of flexibility.

 

[TedTX]

Agree with OP. 2K is all I need to run all my devices. Got a solar generator that has a 1.8K inverter works perfectly. Did pickup a 3K inverter to be used like OPs. Had a built-in solar panel charger input so cost effective for simple installation.

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