12v and USB installed in bed

[Dad]

Do anyone have the dimensions of the little plastic cover over the pigtails?

I'm thinking I might mount a single 12V there if it is big enough. If not, I'll just do the USB-Cig combo inside the bin.

Amazon has a nice offering of marine USB & 12v sockets that will fit nicely into the covers. I used a 1-1/8 forstner bit for the hole (very clean cut with the forstner - I learned earlier not to use a spade bit as it chewed up the hole terribly). You will also need to remove the plastic docking on the rear of the panel cover. The docking is what holds the 12v connector in place until you use it. I don't have a photo of that since I've already removed them. You should get a cleaner hole once they're gone. I used a vibrating multi-tool with a narrow cutting bit to remove it.

Sponsored

 

[ClemsonU88]

No I cut out individual holes . Had no issues went very easy

I don't understand how. My cubby/box is almost as wide as the opening it was going in, so when I put the two receptacles in with the wiring attached, it was too wide to fit through the opening.

I had to push the cubby in just far enough to get the 1st hole behind the wall of the bed, and then push the receptacle through and use a screw driver to slowly turn the "nut" that holds the receptacle to the plastic housing. Then I pushed the cubby a little farther in so the 2nd hole was inside the walls and repeated the nut. Then I pushed the cubby the rest of the way in and bolted to the bed wall.

Did you bend or distort your cubby to fit it in with the receptacles in place? Inquiring minds want to know.

 

[dcs12345]

Amazon has a nice offering of marine USB & 12v sockets that will fit nicely into the covers. I used a 1-1/8 forstner bit for the hole (very clean cut with the forstner - I learned earlier not to use a spade bit as it chewed up the hole terribly). You will also need to remove the plastic docking on the rear of the panel cover. The docking is what holds the 12v connector in place until you use it. I don't have a photo of that since I've already removed them. You should get a cleaner hole once they're gone. I used a vibrating multi-tool with a narrow cutting bit to remove it.

Thanks.

 

[jalbano2]

I don't understand how. My cubby/box is almost as wide as the opening it was going in, so when I put the two receptacles in with the wiring attached, it was too wide to fit through the opening.

I had to push the cubby in just far enough to get the 1st hole behind the wall of the bed, and then push the receptacle through and use a screw driver to slowly turn the "nut" that holds the receptacle to the plastic housing. Then I pushed the cubby a little farther in so the 2nd hole was inside the walls and repeated the nut. Then I pushed the cubby the rest of the way in and bolted to the bed wall.

Did you bend or distort your cubby to fit it in with the receptacles in place? Inquiring minds want to know.

No I did not distort it. I took my time installed them with only a few threads was able to fit it in the cubby. Once in I was able to squeeze my hand behind it and tighten up the plastic nuts.

 

[Dad]

Thanks.

Gladly. Let us know how it went or if you have any more questions.

 

[dcs12345]

Gladly. Let us know how it went or if you have any more questions.

Oh….I don’t have a Maverick yet. I doubt I will remember to remind y’all how it goes in a year or so.

 

[Dad]

Oh….I don’t have a Maverick yet. I doubt I will remember to remind y’all how it goes in a year or so.

No worries. I hope your Maverick comes in sooner than later. Meanwhile, thanks for reading and posting to the forums as we can all use more information about what others are doing or plan on doing to their trucks.

 

[BDennis]

Mine shuts off after approx. 30 minutes.

Thanks, I was wondering about that. Still may wire it to the battery as I am using the same unit pictured in the original post. It has its own on/off switch that controls the 12 volt and USB ports. I plan on putting it inside the cubby to protect it from items in the bed, and the three port plate fits vertically against the flat side of the cubby.

 

[BDennis]

Just did mine over the weekend . Wanted it as clean as possible so I installed it inside the cubby. It includes USB, USB C, 12V and voltage gauge. You cant see it now but the 12V port lights up inside .

I am mounting it in the cubby too, but on the side towards the front not the tailgate. This will allow me to read the display and see the ports while at the back of the truck for easier plugging into the USB ports. I am using the three port piece that started this thread and mounting it vertically and rotating the on/off switch 45 degrees for the correct orientation and the covers opening away from the bed.

 

[jalbano2]

I am mounting it in the cubby too, but on the side facing the front not the tailgate. This will allow me to read the display and see the ports while at the back of the truck for easier plugging into the USB ports. I am using the three port piece that started this thread and mounting it vertically and rotating the on/off switch 45 degrees for the correct orientation and the covers opening away from the bed.

Than they will hit the body.

 

[BDennis]

Than they will hit the body.

Installed today and they cleared the body easily. Wasn’t enough flat surface to go completely vertical, so I went with an angled install and being able to see them from the tailgate was worth the hassle. I can read the battery charge and I wanted the unit to have its own on/off switch. I also swapped out the old style glass fuse and replaced it with the same amp blade fuse. Fuses for the lights and power panels can be accessed the through the diy access pop out, this did take adding additional wire length.

 

[Barracuda340]

I really want to do that! I would electrocute myself or destroy my Mav though.

12V with very little amperage. This wont hurt you. If your worried about that, you can easily pull the fuse that goes to the rear accessory wiring to isolate the circuit. Once wired, reinstall the fuse. Its 2 wires. Positive and negative. That's it.

Use glue lined shrink tube, twist the wires together and heat the shrink tube over them. It will take you longer to figure out where you want the panel, and to drill and mount the panel than it will be to wire it in lol.

That's the beauty of ford pre wiring, and pre fusing it. I fused and ran wiring to the bed of my 94 chevy, I used an Avionics wiring needle to put the wire through inside the stock wire bundle in that truck. Was not hard, but was time consuming.

 

[Dad]

12V with very little amperage. This wont hurt you. If your worried about that, you can easily pull the fuse that goes to the rear accessory wiring to isolate the circuit. Once wired, reinstall the fuse. Its 2 wires. Positive and negative. That's it.

Use glue lined shrink tube, twist the wires together and heat the shrink tube over them. It will take you longer to figure out where you want the panel, and to drill and mount the panel than it will be to wire it in lol.

That's the beauty of ford pre wiring, and pre fusing it. I fused ran wiring to the bed of my 94 chevy, I used an Avionics wiring needle to put the wire through inside the stock wire bundle in that truck. Was not hard, but was time consuming.

Good advice.

 

[scourgio]

Installed today and they cleared the body easily. Wasn’t enough flat surface to go completely vertical, so I went with an angled install and being able to see them from the tailgate was worth the hassle. I can read the battery charge and I wanted the unit to have its own on/off switch. I also swapped out the old style glass fuse and replaced it with the same amp blade fuse. Fuses for the lights and power panels can be accessed the through the diy access pop out, this did take adding additional wire length.

I really like the way you have the 2x4s wedged in with foam. I'm guessing you did that to protect the paint? Did you use pipe insulation foam?

 

[Dad]

Installed today and they cleared the body easily. Wasn’t enough flat surface to go completely vertical, so I went with an angled install and being able to see them from the tailgate was worth the hassle. I can read the battery charge and I wanted the unit to have its own on/off switch. I also swapped out the old style glass fuse and replaced it with the same amp blade fuse. Fuses for the lights and power panels can be accessed the through the diy access pop out, this did take adding additional wire length.

This came out well. I like the idea of having a separate on/off switch, as well. Great job!

Sponsored