Rear brakes shot @ 50,000 miles

[Randy H.]

Do you mean calipers, rotors and pads?

Pads and rotors

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[Randy H.]

if you do the brakes yourself post how it went.
i bought forscan just for this purpose and was not able to make it work.
(service mode-electric parking brake-retract rear calipers)

I use only Power Stop brake components as replacements; the rear set was only $102 delivered ($89) from Rock Auto

 

[skinnyboy]

Since new, my rear rotors don't get shiny with use like the front do. Hmm

These are mine after a few days of stopping much harder than normal to try to scuff the rust off. Both sides are the same, and were far worse before. I just drive normally, don't try to hypermile, and the rears get used so little that were it not for the rust issue they would last forever. Going forward it's going to get a solid brake application at least a couple of times a day to try to keep them clean.

Cheers.

 

[DWV]

It pays to drive a little with the windows down so you can hear things like brakes and the brake where indicator occasionally

 

[MakinDoForNow]

It pays to drive a little with the windows down so you can hear things like brakes and the brake where indicator occasionally

OMG and I have the sound reducing windshield!!!

 

[AutobahnSHO]

I've used my brake pads like seven times in 2 year. I expect them to last the life of the truck really. Unless there is a defect. But I will measure for shits&giggles next time I'm able.

I'm at 25k.

Actually the brake pads get used at the end of every stop. But it's low speed minimal time and distance, and indeed, they should last a long long time.

 

[MetalsGeek]

I drive like my avatar (shooting for 50 MPG) and my hybrid barely uses either front or rear enough to keep the rotor rust under control. You might consider the possibility that the electric parking brake system is not fully releasing. One easy way to quick check such things is to drive at constant speed a while and coast to a stop, then use an infrared thermometer to see if any of your brakes are warm.

 

[MakinDoForNow]

I use only Power Stop brake components as replacements; the rear set was only $102 delivered ($89) from Rock Auto

Let's guess some.
Driver rests foot on pedal to be able to stop faster if necessary.
Does driving in slippery mode increase rear brake pressure to reduce hydroplaning possibilities?
Consider that most tire brands severely reduce tire expected milage if tires of different sizes are in front and rear. And if tread depth variances develop will that be enough rpm variance to affect anti skid braking? Different wheel rpm's could affect use of hydraulics in rear? If so braking while turning could affect rear brake use.
I have 29.8k miles on mine with probably 60% in slippery mode. Never rest foot on pedal. Very seldom will brake in a turn but most likely will do so more than realized. Usually have the works oil change at 7,000 intervals and brakes are reported almost new but I will look at pads as well as I can.
Tire tread was "off measured" last change at 28.2k miles. So ??? Oil looks new on dip stick so they apparently did it.
Edit to add: Quick visual shows rear more worn than front. Don't know where replacement depth is but guessing 45-50k miles total on my rears.

 

[catinthebathtub]

I use only Power Stop brake components as replacements; the rear set was only $102 delivered ($89) from Rock Auto

i bought power stop from rockauto too. fronts made a difference.
havent been able to do rears yet due to the "service mode" issue, but will get them on one way or another. at least the originals still have plenty of pad left for now. (26k . front went metal to metal at 10k mile-self inflicted. my grandson was using it for his first porsche club HPDE and i left traction control on as he is/was a novice)

 

[Shelbyv8]

Sounds like an up sale from a quick oil change store.

 

[inline_five]

Going forward it's going to get a solid brake application at least a couple of times a day to try to keep them clean.

Cheers.

That's not a bad idea

 

[inline_five]

i bought power stop from rockauto too. fronts made a difference.
havent been able to do rears yet due to the "service mode" issue, but will get them on one way or another. at least the originals still have plenty of pad left for now. (26k . front went metal to metal at 10k mile-self inflicted. my grandson was using it for his first porsche club HPDE and i left traction control on as he is/was a novice)

Are you guys putting on ceramic pads? On a previous car I used ceramic up front and OEM stuff in the rear, the ceramic lasts twice as long with zero dust. Going forward it's all I'll ever use.

 

[Lobstah]

Is this a complaint that at 50K miles, brake work is needed? Seriously? Just do what has to be done. If this were 5,000 miles I'd understand. All this pontificating about which brake hits first, regenerative vs actual, etc. seems moot. That's 50K miles. Change the pads, change the other parts you need and based upon your driving, keep a closer eye on this so you don't have to change anything but pads next time...

Back in the 80s I owned a Mercedes 190E. Took it into the dealer for a sticker at 25,800, failed, needed brakes. Dealer said that was normal service for a Benz.

Also, engaging "first" and engaging "hardest" are two diff things. Because rears might engage first, that doesn't mean that fronts don't get more pressure when they DO engage.

 

[PNWMaverick]

There are known problems with the Bronco Sport and Maverick rear brakes - Ford is being dodgy about it. There is a TSP from Ford on the Bronco Sport but they are, as of writing, refusing to acknowledge the Maverick, which uses the same brakes as the Bronco Sport.

It is possible that in your case the electronic parking brake isn't fully releasing and is dragging the pads on your truck.

 

[2lbgill]

My wife has a 2010 Prius hybrid and I did all four corners a few months ago as it hit 140,000 miles.

Rotors were within new spec and pads front and rear had almost exactly 50% life on them. I wasted $160 on rotors and pads.

I‘d be highly skeptical your pads are done unless a) you drive very aggressively or b) mechanical failure of the caliper.

Have you heard the typical high pitched wear strip contacting your rotors? That happens when 1-2mm of the pad is left.

I have noticed a lot of drivers brake with their left foot and this creates dragging on the brake pedal quite a bit. I have a buddy that does this and he pays for it with a lot quicker brake jobs.

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