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dlhort1955

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Yes it does - it is the same or similar to your Ranger. In the menu on the dash or your FordPass account!
Rich, can you explain how to find it? Included in XL, XLT, n Lariat? Thank u
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MaveRichard

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Rich, can you explain how to find it? Included in XL, XLT, n Lariat? Thank u
Settings>Menu Button>Information>OK Button>Oil Life

You should be able to scroll through Seatbelt status, MyKey info, Tire Pressure, Oil life and Trailer Light Status.
 

Tim d

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For anyone curious this is what oil from a a brand new maverick 500 miles in and it is why I insist on getting my oil changed asap after buying a new car than again at 1,000 miles (notice all the sediment at the bottom)

-2024 ford maverick XLT Tremor 2.0 eco boost

IMG_2539.jpeg
Please correct me if I'm wrong but I think the break in oil is supposed to look like that for a reason. It's a break in oil for a new engine.
 

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Please correct me if I'm wrong but I think the break in oil is supposed to look like that for a reason. It's a break in oil for a new engine.
Was under the impression it wasn't even a break in oil, just the oil .
 

Oofty Goofty

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The oil life monitor is just a timer to remind you to service your car. Just change your engine oil every 5k and you'll be fine. Bunch of worrywarts in here.
 

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1 lil black dog

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Holy crap. I’ve never changed oil/filter on any vehicle I have owned until I reached the owner’s manual recommended times. My 2000 Jeep I’ve owned since new with 160,000 miles runs perfectly and uses no oil. I’ve never pulled the valve cover but I don’t think there’s any sludge. The spark plugs all show mileage wear but zero buildup of any type. I don’t understand the perceived idea of changing oil at such low mileage/time is necessary. I think the idea of getting the “break in oil” out is ridiculous. I guess if you’re comfortable with the idea that changing oil will somehow extend the life of your engine why not draining the transmission, differential, radiator, power steering reservoir, windshield wiper system, etc…..
Just my opinion.
 

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Holy crap. I’ve never changed oil/filter on any vehicle I have owned until I reached the owner’s manual recommended times. My 2000 Jeep I’ve owned since new with 160,000 miles runs perfectly and uses no oil. I’ve never pulled the valve cover but I don’t think there’s any sludge. The spark plugs all show mileage wear but zero buildup of any type. I don’t understand the perceived idea of changing oil at such low mileage/time is necessary. I think the idea of getting the “break in oil” out is ridiculous. I guess if you’re comfortable with the idea that changing oil will somehow extend the life of your engine why not draining the transmission, differential, radiator, power steering reservoir, windshield wiper system, etc…..
Just my opinion.
It's a known fact that engines wear and create debris which will contaminate your oil as they break in so why not spend an extra $30 and get that crud out of your engine?
Even if the metal particles don't harm the engine, which I don't for a second believe, new oil definitely won't harm anything, it's the cheapest insurance you can give your engine.

And yes, I do plan on changing the transmission, RDU and PTU fluid early too. I paid $40 grand for a new truck, cheaping out to save $100 on fluids is ridiculous.
 

Snox801

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Holy crap. I’ve never changed oil/filter on any vehicle I have owned until I reached the owner’s manual recommended times. My 2000 Jeep I’ve owned since new with 160,000 miles runs perfectly and uses no oil. I’ve never pulled the valve cover but I don’t think there’s any sludge. The spark plugs all show mileage wear but zero buildup of any type. I don’t understand the perceived idea of changing oil at such low mileage/time is necessary. I think the idea of getting the “break in oil” out is ridiculous. I guess if you’re comfortable with the idea that changing oil will somehow extend the life of your engine why not draining the transmission, differential, radiator, power steering reservoir, windshield wiper system, etc…..
Just my opinion.
Well i see your 160k and raise you several ecoboosts over 200k, several over 300k and one over 400k.

Changed early. May not ever be an issue. Maybe that shows up at over 200k. We never know. But what we do know is most engine wear will occur early. We also know oil is relatively cheap. I’ve always changed oil early and have a pretty crazy good record of high mileage out of these engines. And they are almost all tuned and driven hard. I routinely haul more than I should for very long distances.
Not saying you’re wrong. We really don’t know but changing early make my nether region feel all warm and fuzzy.
 

commadorebob

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Just got my oil changed at 6667 miles, almost 12 months after it was built.

Dealer said the oil that came out looked fine.
 

1 lil black dog

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It's a known fact that engines wear and create debris which will contaminate your oil as they break in so why not spend an extra $30 and get that crud out of your engine?
Even if the metal particles don't harm the engine, which I don't for a second believe, new oil definitely won't harm anything, it's the cheapest insurance you can give your engine.

And yes, I do plan on changing the transmission, RDU and PTU fluid early too. I paid $40 grand for a new truck, cheaping out to save $100 on fluids is ridiculous.
$40 K on a Maverick? WOW
 
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Paulyz

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For anyone curious this is what oil from a a brand new maverick 500 miles in and it is why I insist on getting my oil changed asap after buying a new car than again at 1,000 miles (notice all the sediment at the bottom)

-2024 ford maverick XLT Tremor 2.0 eco boost

IMG_2539.jpeg
Yup, change oil on a new engine after 1,000 miles to remove any metal shavings then every 5,000 miles after
 

grumpyunk

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$40 K on a Maverick? WOW
Have you looked at the latest price list? No longer a $20k truck...

Does the 2000 Jeep have a turbocharger? Turbochargers are 'hot spots' in the engine, and will 'coke' the lubricant if it does not handle high temperatures well. I think the demands on the oil in a turbocharged engine are higher than those in most Jeep engines of the past. The later models that have turbo chargers likely will need more frequent oil changes.
YMMV
tom
 

Joe Clutterbuck

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It's a known fact that engines wear and create debris which will contaminate your oil as they break in so why not spend an extra $30 and get that crud out of your engine?
Even if the metal particles don't harm the engine, which I don't for a second believe, new oil definitely won't harm anything, it's the cheapest insurance you can give your engine.

And yes, I do plan on changing the transmission, RDU and PTU fluid early too. I paid $40 grand for a new truck, cheaping out to save $100 on fluids is ridiculous.
Best advice out here!
 

Oscarcat

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Yea lots of posts on here from us early changers and even some of the regular interval guys reporting the same. Most of us opt for a change within the first 1k-ish give or take then again at 3k and so on and so forth. The manual even states 3-5k for the EB's. Personally, I do 3 oil analysis' and then make my judgement call but until then, it's 3k each time or winter/summer whichever comes first. I also bought used, so no idea what was done before me but so far everything looks good. A year into it at 16k total and on my 2nd oil report coming up here soon.

Also, now you should do your PTU/RDU and then your tranny. I'm about to pull the trigger on my tranny for the first time too. But the PTU/RDU... oof... that was some awful looking fluid for such low mileage. Less than a gallon is the reason. Every 20-30k for me on those two.
RE: Oil analysis report - I am just curious, if the report comes back with higher than "normal" readings, what does one do about it? Especially if the Mav is running fine.
 

2lbgill

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Crankcase sludge from mfg. and assembly process. Get a sampler of oil that went thru the filter and you'll find it's whistle clean. Sediments in the oil pan are just that, sediments. Having the oil analyzed means nothing unless the oil pan was 100% clean and the oil was sampled before it reached the oil pan.
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