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Hybrid Deep Sleep issue solved! Bad battery was my cause

inline_five

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I think these 12v batteries die by a million paper cuts, so to speak.

Replacing one will have immediate benefits. It will immediately solve issues. But for how long?

My truck is drawing 4 amps out of the truck 30 minutes after I've removed the key. It eventually turns off because the battery never goes to zero volts. Just 11.8 volts.

So it's kinda like leaving your headlamps on EVERY SINGLE DAY until the 30 min timer cuts it off.

This is unusual wear & tear on the battery, I think, contributing to short lifespan. But a guess. 🤷🏻‍♂️
Wow, that is surprising. How did you track that?

Anything below 12.4 and sulfation starts to happen

What is a Sulfated Battery and How to Prevent It (crownbattery.com)

Seems like these vehicles pull too much power on accessories when "idle", leading to premature battery failure

A good DIY tutorial about how to reduce power off current draw would be really nice
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GPSMan

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inline_five

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IMG_8532.jpeg

Everything turn off able is turned off.
What is that box you're using? I'm curious about my own Mav

Definitely causing some battery damage. Guessing it's not just yours, and why many complaints are floating around.
 

GPSMan

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Www.scangauge.com

Plug n play attachment to the OBDII data port above the driver's left knee.

Can read about 75 sensors.
 

Rockingchair

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On my 22 Hybrid Lariat the sleep warning started coming on after the battery cable recall. Every day until I took it to the dealership. They charged the battery and then reset the computer control that controls the charge rate and the % that the battery is charged to. Its been fine since, no issues with deep sleep mode.
 

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Www.scangauge.com

Plug n play attachment to the OBDII data port above the driver's left knee.

Can read about 75 sensors.
Interesting!

So, I have a 20w solar panel charger on my car that sits outside, and I use to park at the airport. It currently reads 12.9 volts, and shows "fully charged" (green light).

The Mav, sitting in my garage for roughly 24 hours, showed 12.09.

Turned it on, shows 15v at the hybrid jump points.

Drove, came back, parked. Solenoids going off like crazy. There is some sort of fan running, appears to be from pax rear area. Cant' tell. It went on/off several times.

Waited for everything to subside, volts now showing 12.18. Assuming that will decrease as time goes on.

I hooked up a 600mah battery maintainer (HF special), will measure later this evening.
 

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GPSMan, any chance you can track if locking the truck in different manners affects how long the draw lasts? I've noticed that when using the lock button on the inside of the door before closing, I don't receive any power saving messages. I only seem to receive the deep sleep or power saver messages if I've used the remote to lock the vehicle. (And possibly the outside door handle, but not sure and haven't tried to confirm that either way - I'm a Lariat).

I also have wifi disabled, unless actively checking for an update when parked in the front of the driveway, as the signal is otherwise on the low side, and why have it keep trying with little/no useable signal.

My hunch is the way we lock the vehicle affects how long it draws or stays active, and would like to confirm.

Thanks
 

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IMG_8532.webp

Everything turn off able is turned off.
Some more info, found on a Toyota hybrid forum, circa 2020:

If 12.1 volts is observed at the terminals the battery is 10-20% charged. Left in this state for more than a day, damage in the form of plate degradation and sulfating is likely to begin. There are several reasons this is occurring and all are eating away at the useful lifespan of the battery. We tend to abuse our flooded cell car batteries in general (with out knowing it.) Best is to read about it at the BatteryUniversity.com
further down:

The short answer here is we tend to abuse flooded cell lead acid batteries in cars. Only the specific gravity of each cell will tell the true state of charge. The float voltage only gives you an idea of the actual state of charge. Further, unless load tested, you really only sort of know what is going on by using a volt meter.

Lots of superstition and wife’s tales about batteries in general.

As stated, educate yourself at the BatteryUniversity.

Note I have car batteries last a long time (twice the warranty) by simple means. I have camper house batteries last 10 years by being nice to them and retiring before the leave me wanting.

I have over a half century of professional old car maintenance exposure (family business) and a degree in electrical engineering.

Yes, they are called 12v batteries. That is their colloquial nominal rating.

No matter how you slice it 12.1 volts is low given the typical fully charged float voltage per cell at 20c is 2.1v / cell (and for a new battery tend to be higher like 2.2 v / cell). So 12.6 - 13.2 volts for a new battery is fully charged floating. Most newer batteries will be at 12.6v or more for many days after a decent drive. (Lots of short drives tend to accelerate useful life span.)

12.1 volts is not a good state of charge.
Sounds like he knows his stuff.

Also sounds like Ford is not alone, in keeping 12v battery levels low. Maybe they are not concerned, because the hybrid battery connects to the 12v when "started" so it (hopefully) won't leave you stranded and will always start. But, as noted, the lifespan of the 12v is going to be severely reduced. Interesting to note this, because I was just having this conversation with someone - that car batteries don't seem to last as long as they used to.

Some cars have solar chargers built in, always topping off the 12v. Would be nice if more manufacturers used them.
 

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Interesting!

So, I have a 20w solar panel charger on my car that sits outside, and I use to park at the airport. It currently reads 12.9 volts, and shows "fully charged" (green light).

The Mav, sitting in my garage for roughly 24 hours, showed 12.09.

Turned it on, shows 15v at the hybrid jump points.

Drove, came back, parked. Solenoids going off like crazy. There is some sort of fan running, appears to be from pax rear area. Cant' tell. It went on/off several times.

Waited for everything to subside, volts now showing 12.18. Assuming that will decrease as time goes on.

I hooked up a 600mah battery maintainer (HF special), will measure later this evening.
Sounds like deja vù to me.
 

GPSMan

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Ok, this is new TO ME because I had never done this before.

I got in, turned the key to "on" without starting. Got vastly different voltages.

ALL PHOTOS WITHIN 2-4 seconds of each other.

#1 Key to "ON" but no start:
Ford Maverick Hybrid Deep Sleep issue solved! Bad battery was my cause IMG_8536


#2 Key to "RUN" / Ready to drive:
Ford Maverick Hybrid Deep Sleep issue solved! Bad battery was my cause IMG_8538


#3 key to "OFF":
Ford Maverick Hybrid Deep Sleep issue solved! Bad battery was my cause IMG_8540
 
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I had this problem and it turned out to be a dealer added alarm.
If you are so inclined pull the cover off of the fuse panel in the passenger footwell and look for splice into wires. Disconnecting this "alarm" fixed mine.
 

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I had this problem and it turned out to be a dealer added alarm.
If you are so inclined pull the cover off of the fuse panel in the passenger footwell and look for splice into wires. Disconnecting this "alarm" fixed mine.
Dealer ATTEMPTED to sell me one of those. I said I did't want it. He told kid getting ready to wash it and top off the gas not to add that thingy. I'm gonna look now that you brought it up.

Edit: mine looks purely stock, nothing added or tampered with.
 
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I've had my 2023 Mav Hybrid for almost two months. About a couple weeks in I started getting FordPass notifications here and there saying the app was disabled due to the truck ging into "battery saver mode". It advised to simply drive the truck and the app would reset.

That worked...at first. The app started giving me more frequent notifications about battery saver mode. The last few days I'd gotten the "deep sleep" notification after each trip whether long or short so I immediately took it into my local dealer.

They discovered that it was simply a bad battery and was probably caused by the truck sitting for long periods of time between manufacture and delivery to the dealership.

Sooo, for those of you out there who may have had this issue and haven't read posts about it on this forum yet...let the dealer know to (a) test the 12v battery (b) the charging system and (c) the wiring harness to the 12v battery. From reading similar experiences on this site I knew to ask those questions and get these areas examined. To all those who have posted this sound advice before me...thanks very much!
I drive my truck every day, and last week I got the "app, disables" message, however, I was about to remotely start the truck. Haven't given me any more issues.
 

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Ok, this is new TO ME because I had never done this before.

I got in, turned the key to "on" without starting. Got vastly different voltages.

ALL PHOTOS WITHIN 2-4 seconds of each other.

#1 Key to "ON" but no start:
IMG_8536.jpeg


#2 Key to "RUN" / Ready to drive:
IMG_8538.jpeg


#3 key to "OFF":
IMG_8540.jpeg
Off drawing 8amps maybe makes sense ? All systems shutting down, coolant circulation, safety systems etc ?

Probably drops after a few mins. What's odd is the key on voltage higher than off. Would this mean that after some time when they truck turns off, it actually charges the 12v a bit ?
 

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Off drawing 8amps maybe makes sense ? All systems shutting down, coolant circulation, safety systems etc ?

Probably drops after a few mins. What's odd is the key on voltage higher than off. Would this mean that after some time when they truck turns off, it actually charges the 12v a bit ?
What it means is the DC/DC converter has two settings:

Low ( 13.x ) for accessory mode and
High ( 14.x ) for drive mode.

8 amps of draw was when dome light was on, when you first shut off, and when the dome lights go off the draw was 4 amps.
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