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Redd

2.0L EcoBoost
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Packaging: When the module arrives and you open the box, it's a nice, neat little presentation, with a list of straight forward instructions, the module itself snug in place, and a box containing the wiring harness. Kinda like opening up the box to one of them new iphones.

They also include a grip of zip ties for tidying everything up after install, just in case you don't already have ties laying around. I did but always nice to have more. I honestly ended up only using two. My shipment also included a shirt and keytag so that was a cool little bonus as well.

Ford Maverick Redd's Panda Power Module Install & Review (2.0L EcoBoost Tune) PXL_20230524_212020235~2


Install: If you're not familiar with working on cars/trucks, don't sweat it too much. The install itself is actually pretty easy. Simply disconnect the battery, identify the MAP sensors referenced in the instructions, disconnect each sensor, plug in the corresponding ends of the harness where directed, mount the module in a suitable location (I used a couple Command strips), plug in the harness, tidy your wiring with zip ties, and reconnect the battery. *Just make sure before you set everything in place that you give your wiring sufficient slack*

Then all you do is download the app they tell you, enter the product serial number into it, and sync the module with your phone via Bluetooth. Once synced, you can fine tune the performance levels you desire (1-7) for Eco, Sport, and Race modes. Select your mode, turn the truck on, and you're off.

Frankly the only annoying part was accessing the lower sensor. It's a tight squeeze and, if you've got big arms and/or bulky hands, you'll probably be better off either accessing it from beneath the truck or having someone with more slender extremities give it a go.

Ford Maverick Redd's Panda Power Module Install & Review (2.0L EcoBoost Tune) PXL_20230524_221703485~2


Driving Impressions: I've been testing the truck for awhile and have gotten a good sense of how it now behaves. Unfortunately, I don't have access to draggy or anything like that at the moment so I'm not gonna be throwing numbers at you. What I will do is give you my honest impression of the changes I've noticed (chiefly at level 7, which 5-7 require 91-93 octane).

To start with, if you're driving economically, babying the gas pedal, or just cruising around town at lower speed, you honestly might forget the module is even there. The overall driving characteristics of the Maverick are unchanged. But the moment you stick your foot in it, taking off from a stop, speeding up to get around someone, or accelerating to merge onto the interstate, there's a very noticeable difference.

There's more grunt, more giddyup than was there before. There's more of you being pushed back in the seat. It's perceptible and it's satisfying. I also think the turbo is a bit more audible now (which makes sense, given what the module is doing).

When I swapped my Tremor's tires to 245/65R17 ATs, I did feel there to be a small but not but totally insignificant impact to my acceleration. That feeling is now far more than gone and I really dig it.

Conclusion: At the end of the day, if you're looking to tune your Ecoboost for every ounce of power it can possibly make, alter driving/transmission characteristics of the truck, etc, this isn't really the direction for you. A dedicated tune (Cobb, Livernois, 5-Star, etc) on top of all your other supporting mods is gonna be the way to go.

*But* if you're looking for something that's incredibly simple, offers your Maverick a satisfying punch of extra power, and won't have you sweating about getting your warranty voided, the Panda Power Module (from @Caleb@PandaMotorworks) is, imho, one of the *absolute* best bangs for the buck you can get for your Ecoboost Maverick.
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Last edited:

Barracuda340

2.0L EcoBoost
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Packaging: When the module arrives and you open the box, it's a nice, neat little presentation, with a list of straight forward instructions, the module itself snug in place, and a box containing the wiring harness. Kinda like opening up the box to one of them new iphones.

They also include a grip of zip ties for tidying everything up after install, just in case you don't already have ties laying around. I did but always nice to have more. I honestly ended up only using two. My shipment also included a shirt and keytag so that was a cool little bonus as well.

PXL_20230524_212020235~2.jpg


Install: If you're not familiar with working on cars/trucks, don't sweat it too much. The install itself is actually pretty easy. Simply disconnect the battery, identify the MAF sensors referenced in the instructions, disconnect each sensor, plug in the corresponding ends of the harness where directed, mount the module in a suitable location (I used a couple Command strips), plug in the harness, tidy your wiring with zip ties, and reconnect the battery. *Just make sure before you set everything in place that you give your wiring sufficient slack*

Then all you do is download the app they tell you, enter the product serial number into it, and sync the module with your phone via Bluetooth. Once synced, you can fine tune the performance levels you desire (1-7) for Eco, Sport, and Race modes. Select your mode, turn the truck on, and you're off.

Frankly the only annoying part was accessing the lower sensor. It's a tight squeeze and, if you've got big arms and/or bulky hands, you'll probably be better off either accessing it from beneath the truck or having someone with more slender extremities give it a go.

PXL_20230524_221703485~2.jpg


Driving Impressions: I've been testing the truck for awhile and have gotten a good sense of how it now behaves. Unfortunately, I don't have access to draggy or anything like that at the moment so I'm not gonna be throwing numbers at you. What I will do is give you my honest impression of the changes I've noticed (chiefly at level 7, which 5-7 require 91-93 octane).

To start with, if you're driving economically, babying the gas pedal, or just cruising around town at lower speed, you honestly might forget the module is even there. The overall driving characteristics of the Maverick are unchanged. But the moment you stick your foot in it, taking off from a stop, speeding up to get around someone, or accelerating to merge onto the interstate, there's a very noticeable difference.

There's more grunt, more giddyup than was there before. There's more of you being pushed back in the seat. It's perceptible and it's satisfying. I also think the turbo is a bit more audible now (which makes sense, given what the module is doing).

When I swapped my Tremor's tires to 245/65R17 ATs, I did feel there to be a small but not but totally insignificant impact to my acceleration. That feeling is now far more than gone and I really dig it.

Conclusion: At the end of the day, if you're looking to tune your Ecoboost for every ounce of power it can possibly make, alter driving/transmission characteristics of the truck, etc, this isn't really the direction for you. A dedicated tune (Cobb, Livernois, 5-Star, etc) on top of all your other supporting mods is gonna be the way to go.

*But* if you're looking for something that's incredibly simple, offers your Maverick a satisfying punch of extra power, and won't have you sweating about getting your warranty voided, the Panda Power Module is, imho, one of the *absolute* best bangs for the buck you can get for your Ecoboost Maverick.
Very interested. So this just slaves into the stock harness on the engine itself, and your not swapping programming on the OEM computer? How does it compare to just switching on Sport mode? Is it more noticable compared to that? What was the price?

Thanks!!
Matt
 

Ottocycle

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So this just manipulates the MAF signal going to the ECU or does it actually rewrite the ECU with new Fuel, Timing and throttle maps? Kinda confused on that by just looking at how its installed.
 
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Redd

Redd

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Very interested. So this just slaves into the stock harness on the engine itself, and your not swapping programming on the OEM computer? How does it compare to just switching on Sport mode? Is it more noticable compared to that? What was the price?

Thanks!!
Matt
You're tapping into two MAP sensors, one by the intake manifold and one by the throttle body. The module essentially intercepts and alters information your truck's computer receives. The OEM tune itself is retained. If you needed to take it to the dealer, you can simply disconnect the module and revert to stock form with no issue.

As for sport mode, I can't really comment. Tremor doesn't come with it and I don't have forscan. Though, if my understanding is correct, sport mode is basically just modulating throttle sensitivity, not altering the amount of power itself you're putting down. I'd say you'd likely be seeing a difference, irrespective of what drive mode you're running in.

As for price, I paid $399.
 
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Redd

Redd

2.0L EcoBoost
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So this just manipulates the MAF signal going to the ECU or does it actually rewrite the ECU with new Fuel, Timing and throttle maps? Kinda confused on that by just looking at how its installed.
The former. The ECU itself isn't touched.
 

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Caleb@PandaMotorworks

2.0L EcoBoost
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Packaging: When the module arrives and you open the box, it's a nice, neat little presentation, with a list of straight forward instructions, the module itself snug in place, and a box containing the wiring harness. Kinda like opening up the box to one of them new iphones.

They also include a grip of zip ties for tidying everything up after install, just in case you don't already have ties laying around. I did but always nice to have more. I honestly ended up only using two. My shipment also included a shirt and keytag so that was a cool little bonus as well.

PXL_20230524_212020235~2.jpg


Install: If you're not familiar with working on cars/trucks, don't sweat it too much. The install itself is actually pretty easy. Simply disconnect the battery, identify the MAP sensors referenced in the instructions, disconnect each sensor, plug in the corresponding ends of the harness where directed, mount the module in a suitable location (I used a couple Command strips), plug in the harness, tidy your wiring with zip ties, and reconnect the battery. *Just make sure before you set everything in place that you give your wiring sufficient slack*

Then all you do is download the app they tell you, enter the product serial number into it, and sync the module with your phone via Bluetooth. Once synced, you can fine tune the performance levels you desire (1-7) for Eco, Sport, and Race modes. Select your mode, turn the truck on, and you're off.

Frankly the only annoying part was accessing the lower sensor. It's a tight squeeze and, if you've got big arms and/or bulky hands, you'll probably be better off either accessing it from beneath the truck or having someone with more slender extremities give it a go.

PXL_20230524_221703485~2.jpg


Driving Impressions: I've been testing the truck for awhile and have gotten a good sense of how it now behaves. Unfortunately, I don't have access to draggy or anything like that at the moment so I'm not gonna be throwing numbers at you. What I will do is give you my honest impression of the changes I've noticed (chiefly at level 7, which 5-7 require 91-93 octane).

To start with, if you're driving economically, babying the gas pedal, or just cruising around town at lower speed, you honestly might forget the module is even there. The overall driving characteristics of the Maverick are unchanged. But the moment you stick your foot in it, taking off from a stop, speeding up to get around someone, or accelerating to merge onto the interstate, there's a very noticeable difference.

There's more grunt, more giddyup than was there before. There's more of you being pushed back in the seat. It's perceptible and it's satisfying. I also think the turbo is a bit more audible now (which makes sense, given what the module is doing).

When I swapped my Tremor's tires to 245/65R17 ATs, I did feel there to be a small but not but totally insignificant impact to my acceleration. That feeling is now far more than gone and I really dig it.

Conclusion: At the end of the day, if you're looking to tune your Ecoboost for every ounce of power it can possibly make, alter driving/transmission characteristics of the truck, etc, this isn't really the direction for you. A dedicated tune (Cobb, Livernois, 5-Star, etc) on top of all your other supporting mods is gonna be the way to go.

*But* if you're looking for something that's incredibly simple, offers your Maverick a satisfying punch of extra power, and won't have you sweating about getting your warranty voided, the Panda Power Module (from @Caleb@PandaMotorworks) is, imho, one of the *absolute* best bangs for the buck you can get for your Ecoboost Maverick.
Awesome write up Ray! A bunch of great information in there

Thank you so much for sharing!
 

SnyperX

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I also have the Panda Power Module. Redd's review pretty much spot on. I am working with my wireless OBD II module to do some data logging of the RPM, Intake Temp., Fuel Rail Pressure, Intake Manifold Absolute Pressure, and Exhaust Pressure to see what I can see with PPM at its various settings and without the PPM enabled. Keep in mine I am running a K&N intake with Velossa Tech Big Mouth, stock down pipe and exhaust, with stock Wild Peak tires (I have the FX4 package) . Stay "tuned".

I will be updating the down pipe, exhaust, and intercooler at some point.
 

FriarPop

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I highly recommend the racechip tuner, its similar and its been amazing.
 

Akuma72387

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Sounds like the install is basically identical to the RaceChip that I bought. I haven't installed mine so can't give an opinion on it because they can invalidate your warranty in my state even though piggybacks CLAIM they are untraceable.

I only have about 6k give or take on my warranty so I'll do it after (I bought the chip when j only have about 4k so it's been a bit of a wait especially since I got my truck in 2021)

I have a few other parts that will be going on at the same time so I can push the truck to over 300hp at the minimum.

I might buy a few others if I feel like seeing if I can break something haha
 
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NewGuy

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Sounds like the install is basically identical to the RaceChip that I bought. I haven't installed mine so can't give an opinion on it because they can invalidate your warranty in my state even though piggybacks CLAIM they are untraceable.

I only have about 6k give or take on my warranty so I'll do it after (I bought the chip when j only have about 4k so it's been a bit of a wait especially since I got my truck in 2021)

I have a few other parts that will be going on at the same time so I can push the truck to over 300hp at the minimum.

I might buy a few others if I feel like seeing if I can break something haha

I’m new (can’t you tell?) to this forum and piggy back tuners . Not new to map tuners however. They claim it won’t void warranty if removed completely, yet you say they are traceable. Do you mind elaborating? I have 280 miles on my truck.. but would like to add something after the break in period and don’t want to jeopardize warranty.
 

Akuma72387

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I’m new (can’t you tell?) to this forum and piggy back tuners . Not new to map tuners however. They claim it won’t void warranty if removed completely, yet you say they are traceable. Do you mind elaborating? I have 280 miles on my truck.. but would like to add something after the break in period and don’t want to jeopardize warranty.
Piggy pack tuners interuppt the singal.and change what the computer sees or receives for signals. The computer on newer vehicles logs the engine conditions and looks for any changes or abnormalities in the signals and logs any that it sees in the computer.

The way a piggyback is suppose to work is that it tells the computer everything is fine while telling the other modules to do "X" to increase performance. Only problem is that someone the newer systems read the modules from more than just one point. If you tell the computer the turbo is fine even though it is doing something to increase power the sensors on the spark timing, fuel rail, intercooler... etc still see that there is an abnormality in the system and log it even if it isn't enough to make the system think there is some trouble.

I am playing it safe an not taking the chance that the system will register something that void the warranty for me especially since the vehicle no longer needs to be plugged into a reader to send these signals. Hence why you get messages saying " The charging system has registered a charging fault in the 12v charging system. Seek/ see mechanic/ dealer for assistance" and if the car can send those signals then unplugging a piggy back before you gonna for service or regular pil changes would.make a difference.

Like I said it is me being cautious and I could be 100% wrong but the am I until of possibilities make.me.not wanna chance it especially when I am that close
 

Akuma72387

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Just an example of what I am talking about above.

Ford Maverick Redd's Panda Power Module Install & Review (2.0L EcoBoost Tune) Screenshot_20230625_192057_FordPass
 

jewc75

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The piggyback tuner is 100% untraceable, unless you are stupid enough to leave it on when you take it in for warranty work.
 

Caleb@PandaMotorworks

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The piggyback tuner is 100% untraceable, unless you are stupid enough to leave it on when you take it in for warranty work.
This is correct. The Power Module does not touch anything but the signals to the MAP sensors. It is invisible to the ECU. The computer can't log a change that it can't see.
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