Monitoring Hybrid Battery State-Of-Charge

[MaveRichard]

I love this discussion!

@JimParker256 got it mostly right.

The goal is to have an automated, OBDII powered monitor. It sounds like the SGIII is the only option, but this post was created to explore all of these options.

if anyone else uses the SGIII I would love to hear about your experience.

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[Gullzway]

I agree that is a great way if you want to permanently view the truck data. I do not, I just want to occasionally monitor it. Which is why I use my $12 Bluetooth OBD2 plug I already had as well as the $5 Torque Pro app. Just another option.
I rarely use it, but it's handy when I want to.

 

[GPSMan]

I agree that is a great way if you want to permanently view the truck data. I do not, I just want to occasionally monitor it. Which is why I use my $12 Bluetooth OBD2 plug I already had as well as the $5 Torque Pro app. Just another option.
I rarely use it, but it's handy when I want to.

I really like what Gullzway did here. I really explored that option. It's beautiful to look at and an even larger screen than SGIII.

Just you can't have maps or music data or anything else going at the same time. Plus I have never used Android in my life, didn't have any Android equipment, and really wasn't interested in learning a new operating system. That plus I wanted more or less full time monitoring. SGIII is on a magnetic mount and I take it indoors to not tempt thieves sometimes but I use it every single day.

 

[GPSMan]

P.S. when SGIII arrives they give you a small magnetic patch, and a large magnetic patch.

The device absolutely 100% needs the larger magnetic patch, so for sure use the large patch.

(The small one came from the suction cup manufacturer and the larger one came from ScanGauge manufacturer.)

The small patch won't hold the unit.
I tried. Then I cried. 🥲

 

[Gullzway]

Just you can't have maps or music data or anything else going at the same time.

With Android Auto, if you're using navigation it shows up on the bottom status bar as far as where to turn next. Same for music if you're using apps like Spotify/Tidal.
On Sync 3, Lariat Lux, you can also display what music is playing as well as the source on the 8-in instrument cluster, and control it with the steering wheel controls.

 

[MostlySafeBear]

Perhaps a misundersatnding on my part. Clearly when you only mentioned the cost of the Bluetooth ODB2 reader, it should have been obvious that you intended for everyone to also run out and purchase a second Android device to run the app. My bad.

By the way, as has been pointed out numerous times, the ScanGauge III comes as a complete, ready-to-use solution that includes the ODB2 connector (which has a built-in cable to connect to the gauge, and the gauge itself, and a mount for the gauge - all "out of the box" - nothing else to purchase. Just plug-n-play.

(I feel like it comes across that I'm schilling for the company - and that's certainly not my intention. I'm still waiting to receive mine, and certainly have nothing to gain from anyone else choosing or not choosing to use SGIII.)


Granted. But you should also grant that the "free" or "really cheap" device you receive may or may not be virus and/or trojan-free, and may or may not expose you (and potentially your vehicle) to higher risk than purchasing from a reputable source that may cost a bit more. At the very least, anyone contemplating this should have some expert help in "cleaning up" the system before using it. Your money - your decision.


It's called a forum, which by definition is a "discussion group." Discussion is what we do here.

And, by the way, here are the relevant parts of the OP's "original request" that I was responding to:

(Added emphasis is mine.)
So I don't think I was the one "moving the goalpost" in the discussion.


Nope - I just pointed out that with the SGIII, you do NOT have to do that for yourself, which may or may not incur additional cost for you. It is less convenient, and especially so if you don't have the "know-how" to fabricate that "tap" for yourself.

Have a great day. I'm done.

Great, if you were replying to OP, then why quote me/reply to me?

You seem to know how forums work, and yet..

Good to know that you're done.

 

[JG307]

The battery pack is rather small.
Of the small pack, you are allowed to use only 40% of it.
The generator is rather large.
This means the HV battery is recharged very quickly. You can get 5% recharge from one application of the brakes.
The large generator can recharge 15% in one minute.

This is such cool info to have, nevermind the "what does it matter" naysayers. Given your extensive experience with SoC data can you extrapolate some estimates for me? Again, for no reason other than "it's fun to know".

1) You say 40% of battery capacity is usable and the MG is capable of 15% in one minute. So the MG is capable of putting a "full" charge to the battery in a little under 3min?

2) "Capable" vs "Real World"-- how long would a "full" charge take under average regen conditions?

3) What is the difference in speed of charging the battery via regen vs charging the battery with an idling engine? How long would it take to get a "full" 40% charge at idle alone?

4) Does the ICE charge the battery at speed, or is all power sent to drive wheels? If so, what is this rate of charge compared to regen and idle? I'm thinking of highway driving where some downhill runs let you maintain speed under electric power, but you don't have much opportunity to recharge via regen.

5) Is maximum charge rate the same as maximum discharge rate? Could you run a 70% battery down to 30% in as little as 3min?

Thanks so much for all your contributions to the forum.

 

[RonFLA]

I don’t want to respond to a post directed to GPSMan, whom I fell is kinda the defector authority on this matter; However, I do feel I have some knowledge and experience to offer.

First, the regeneration “regen.” process is inherently inefficient and generally not very useful in recharging the traction battery. It’s more of a cumulative losses recovery process that yields single digit percentage of charge, unless you reside in a very hilly/mountainous area, where you can really engage regen. in maximum endurance.

Second, the Maverick recharges the traction battery either in a generator mode, where you’re cruising at a speed and driving condition that would normally induce Electric-Only mode. This happens when the traction battery has depleted and requires charge only. The other part is at higher speeds (+45min), where the ICE engine is propelling the Maverick forward and also charging the traction battery. This is where the ICE engine charges the quickest, since the engine is operated at a higher RPM, other than generator mode, where the ICE engine is operating closer to idle.

Lastly, I find that the Maverick likes to have the engine run to be the most efficient in achieving the best MPG. Seems counter intuitive to not try to keep the Electric-Only mode engaged the longest, but this is where the Hybrid design really demonstrates that it needs the ICE engine to get up to cruising speed. Once this has been achieved, the electric motor tries to enable coasting in Electric-Only mode. If you deplete the traction battery past 20%, by trying to force it into Electric-Only mode, you prevent recharging and thus, don’t allow for more opportunities for more sustained coasting to occur.

One of the key principles of Hypermilling is reach cruise speed “Pulse” and then “Glide”, which is basically idling as you cruise along. Best way to do that is to let the hybrid system do it’s thing, use the ICE to get up to speed and then let it decide when it will engage and disengage.

I hope this helps a little for those that aren’t experienced with EV’s and Hybrids. I look forward to any feedback. Thank you.

 

[GPSMan]

This is such cool info to have, nevermind the "what does it matter" naysayers. Given your extensive experience with SoC data can you extrapolate some estimates for me? Again, for no reason other than "it's fun to know".

1) You say 40% of battery capacity is usable and the MG is capable of 15% in one minute. So the MG is capable of putting a "full" charge to the battery in a little under 3min?

YES. POSSIBLE. BUT REAL WORLD PROBABLY 5 min AS IT TAPERS OFF AT THE HIGHER END.

2) "Capable" vs "Real World"-- how long would a "full" charge take under average regen conditions?

3 TO 5 MINUTES.

3) What is the difference in speed of charging the battery via regen vs charging the battery with an idling engine? How long would it take to get a "full" 40% charge at idle alone?

3 TO 5 MINUTES. VARIES BY TEMPERATURE.

4) Does the ICE charge the battery at speed, or is all power sent to drive wheels? If so, what is this rate of charge compared to regen and idle? I'm thinking of highway driving where some downhill runs let you maintain speed under electric power, but you don't have much opportunity to recharge via regen.

CHARGES AT ANY WHEEL SPEED WHEN POWER DEMANDS ARE LOW. REGEN FROM BRAKES IS 0 to 32kW. CHARGING FROM THE GENERATOR IS 0 to 32kW.
LOWER IF TOO COLD OR TOO HOT. TOO HOT IS RARE. COLD IT WILL TAPER PROBABLY BELOW 40 degrees. IM NEVER TOO HOT OR TOO COLD SO CAN'T TEST.

5) Is maximum charge rate the same as maximum discharge rate? Could you run a 70% battery down to 30% in as little as 3min?

DISCHARGE RATE IS HIGHER THAN RECHARGE RATE.


Thanks so much for all your contributions to the forum.
[/QUOTE]

I've never seen the battery achieve higher than 72% or lower than 28%.

28% is allowed while warming up a cold engine to reduce emissions. 72% is allowed braking while going downhill. Else; 30% and 70% are distinct cut offs.

 

[aitch-2-oh]

[“Cleanup in Aisle 11!”]

Just read SuperDave71’s list of codes and my head exploded, all over, everywhere…

Who knew? I’m sure I’d screw this up in a heartbeat!

Here are the codes to program x-gauges on a scan gauge 2 for the Maverick:
We do have a list of codes that have worked for a Maverick Hybrid. Please give them a try. If you have any questions please let us know.

Description​	TXD​	RXF​	RXD​	MTH​	NAME​	Notes​
Battery Pack State of Charge (%)​	07E4224420​	C46245443620​	3010​	000100050000​	SOC​	4.22+ Required​
Positive Leakage Voltage (Volts)​	07E4224422​	C46245443622​	3010​	0001000A0000​	PLV​	4.22+ Required​
Negative Leakage Voltage (Volts)​	07E4224408​	C46245443608​	3010​	0001000A0000​	NLV​	4.22+ Required​
Contactor Voltage Negative (Volts)​	07E422440A​	C4624544360A​	3010​	000100010000​	CVN​	4.22+ Required​
Maximum Temperature Range (Degrees Fahrenheit)​	07E4224404​	C46205443604​	3008​	00090005FFC6​	MAX​	4.22+ Required​
Minimum Temperature Range (Degrees Fahrenheit)​	07E4224404​	C46205443604​	3808​	00090005FFC6​	MIN​	4.22+ Required​
Temprature Range (Degrees Fahrenheit)​	07E4224404​	C46205443604​	4008​	00090005FFC6​	RNG​	4.22+ Required​
Average Temperature Range (Degrees Fahrenheit)​	07E4224404​	C46205443604​	4808​	00090005FFC6​	ATR​	4.22+ Required​
Hybrid Battery Current (Amps)​	07E4224462​	C46245443662​	3010​	000100010000​	HBC​	4.22+ Required​
Hybrid Battery Pack Voltage (Volts)​	07E4224468​	C46205443668​	3010​	000100010000​	HBV​	4.22+ Required​
Charge Power Limit (kW)​	07E4224438​	C46245443638​	3008​	001900010000​	CPL​	4.22+ Required​
Hybrid Battery Variation in State of Charge Between Battery Modules (%)​	07E42244DA​	C462454436DA​	3010​	000100050000​	BCD​	4.22+ Required​
Hybrid Battery Variation In Voltage Between Battery Modules (Volts)​	07E42244FA​	C462454436FA​	3010​	0001000A0000​	BVD​	4.22+ Required​
Hybrid Battery Minimum Battery Module Voltage (Volts)​	07E4224404​	C46245443604​	3010​	0001000A0000​	MBV​	4.22+ Required​
Hybrid Battery Average Battery Module Voltage (Volts)​	07E4224424​	C46245443624​	3010​	0001000A0000​	ABV​	4.22+ Required​
Hybrid EV Battery Coolant Inlet Temperature (Degrees Fahrenheit)​	07E422440E​	C4620544360E​	3008​	00090005FFD8​	CIT​	4.22+ Required​
Minimum Module Temperature (Degrees Fahrenheit)​	07E4227D01​	C462057D3601​	3008​	00090005FFC6​	MMT​	4.22+ Required​
Delta Module Temperature (Degrees Fahrenheit)​	07E4227D21​	C462057D3621​	3008​	00090005FFC6​	DMT​	4.22+ Required​

 

[GPSMan]

[“Cleanup in Aisle 11!”]

Just read SuperDave71’s list of codes and my head exploded, all over, everywhere…

Who knew? I’m sure I’d screw this up in a heartbeat!

ScanGaugeII was tricky and tedious. You had to key in those codes. Make a typo, you got nothing or garbage.

With ScanGaugeIII it is automatic.

 

[BoboysTruck]

Here's a video of the app I'm using. I have been using this app for several years now but haven't really tried it on the Mav until now. It's long so just fast forward it. I can monitor various parameters and you can see in the video when I change screens.

Those that monitor HV SoC, what's the highest you've seen it? Mine is just in the low 60% and a low as 30%.

Excuse my ignorance because i know squat about hybrids. The Mav is my first one. Before i started monitoring, I thought that when brake coach says 100% returned, I thought the battery is at 100% charge. Now I know it's not, so 100% of what?

Tach shows when ICE kicks on. I'm having a hard time understanding how the ICE can go from 0 to 2k RPM just like that and I can't even feel it.

I'm going to keep playing with the app and see what other parameters I can monitor.

 

[Darnon]

Excuse my ignorance because i know squat about hybrids. The Mav is my first one. Before i started monitoring, I thought that when brake coach says 100% returned, I thought the battery is at 100% charge. Now I know it's not, so 100% of what?

It means you utilized regen for something like close to 100% of the braking deceleration. That isn't precisely true because some friction brakes at the rear is applied (to balance out the decel forces since regen only acts on the front) and the friction brakes take over at low speed. But it's close enough for the computer to reward you with the warm fuzzies.

Tach shows when ICE kicks on. I'm having a hard time understanding how the ICE can go from 0 to 2k RPM just like that and I can't even feel it.

A starter with dozens of HP at its disposal will do that.

 

[CuriousGary]

Your welcome, 800 miles to emptying

Something doesn’t look right with the picture. 1,002.5 plus 801 = 1,803.5, the total number of miles you would have driven before the tank would be empty. At 55.5 mpg, this would take 32.5 gal to drive that distance (1,803.5 / 55.5). The size of the gas tank is only 18.3 gal.

Note: it would be possible to get 801 MTE if you got 55.5 mpg on the last tank. The reason it’s possible: 801 mi / 55.5 mpg = 14.6 gal. Although the tank size on the Mav is supposed to be 13.8 gal, i have read here that there is at least an additional 1 gal in the tank or 14.8 gal. but in this case the number at the top right in the picture above would have been 0.

 

[GPSMan]

It's right after a fill up and the person didn't reset from the past fill up.

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