Walnut blasting ecoboost. Yay or nay, how often?

[Efab]

So a youtube video popped up on my feed, another thing to mindlessly worry about . But i guess the carbon buildup on some ecoboost engines is pretty bad. How often would you do it and if youve done it before in another vehicle, about how much was it?

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[Rivers90]

Never done it.
Should not need to do it for at least 100,000 miles.
If you get a good catch can you may never need to do it.
Carbon buildup effects all engines that are only direct injected.
The hybrid has port injection so it should never need this.
Some engines have both port and direct injection and they should not need this either.

 

[unclerunkle]

Never done it.
Should not need to do it for at least 100,000 miles.
If you get a good catch can you may never need to do it.
Carbon buildup effects all engines that are only direct injected.
The hybrid has port injection so it should never need this.
Some engines have both port and direct injection and they should not need this either.

What's considered a "good" catch can?

I understand that if PCV pressure is limited too much (say the catch can filter is too restrictive) that it could wear out the piston seals and increase blow by. Same would happen if the PCV system were to ever get clogged because the oil was not drained or ice buildup in the event of moisture in winter.

Engineering Explained has a good video on the topic if you haven't seen it:
(60) Do Oil Catch Cans Actually Work? - YouTube

Seems like we would potentially be creating problems (some major) if not careful. Almost makes me think it's better to just plan for a walnut blasting at 100K instead.

 

[rlhdweman]

I bought some CRC GDI cleaner, I may give that a try every 10,000 miles or so.

 

[unclerunkle]

I bought some CRC GDI cleaner, I may give that a try every 10,000 miles or so.

CRC GDI cleaner is a good idea. Some good feedback on misting with water too but you have to be careful to not hydro-lock the engine with that. Seems like a catch can is the best option based on the research I've done so far.

Also, in case this will help anyone else, savagegeese on youtube has a great video on the topic:
(64) Direct Injection, Problems and Solutions | The Fine Print - YouTube

 

[jdiaz]

The FordTechMakuloco YT channel showed walnut blasting the valves on a 4-cylinder EB engine this past week. This has long been the preferred method for VW and BMW shops doing this kind of work, and its so much nicer than using chemicals+scrapers.

It appears Ford actually thought about this service for the shade tree mechanic by not requiring the high pressure fuel injectors to be removed with the plenum.....it should be a fairly quick job. VW shops usually charge $400 and up because the injectors need to be removed.

That said, we put 250k miles on three different VW's with the 2.0T GDI engine, and only cleaned the valves on one of the cars around 125k miles. The shop that did the work said they weren't that dirty, even at that high mileage. We never bothered with catch cans, had 5k-mile OCI's with Mobil1, etc etc.

 

[NJBob]

If it costs only $400.00. I don't think it's that bad. Probably only need to do it once over the life of the truck. But I think that figure is low. Would not be surprised if it was double that.

 

[LessFrequent]

https://fordauthority.com/2022/08/f...ildup-issue-solved-via-walnut-blasting-video/

https://www.mavericktruckclub.com/f...ion-direct-injection-or-port-injection.10696/

 

[Bob The Builder]

3-5K OCI with a low volatility oil like Mobil One EP and stop worrying about it. If I were so inclined to worry about things with my MAVERICK it would be something totally out of my control like waiting a year for my truck only to have some idiot on their cell phone run into me.

 

[Probity]

3-5K OCI with a low volatility oil like Mobil One EP and stop worrying about it. If I were so inclined to worry about things with my MAVERICK it would be something totally out of my control like waiting a year for my truck only to have some idiot on their cell phone run into me.

^This this this. Point of clarification - OCI is oil change interval not oil corrosion inhibitor. Gotta know your TLA's (3-letter acronyms...).

Won't get into catch can debate, either do it or don't, you're call. Personally, the science/tech arguments in favor of adding them I buy into, but with type of driving I do I'll never put one on, I won't need it period. People who use catch cans typically aren't worried about engine warranty claims, if that is a concern then guess what FoMoCo will do if you bring in a vehicle for an engine issue with a catch can installed (hint - claim denied! That's why usually recommended if you have a catch can then take it off before going to a dealership for engine warranty issues).

If you have a DI-only engine (like the 2.0), live in a really cold climate and 95% of your trips are 5-10 miles or less - or - run your engine hard (high rpm) and hot a lot , exclusively use the cheapest non-top tier gasoline you can find (generally lower detergent amount - yes your injectors and piston tops/valve undersides can carbon up too), go really long periods between oil changes, and your motor oil of choice is a no-name with really crappy Noack volatility numbers (API caps it at 15%, higher is worse/lower is better) - then yeah you might have a problem.

Gasoline dilution of motor oil in DI engines is a real thing, some engines are worse than others.

Don't worry be happy.

 

[Bob The Builder]

^This this this. Point of clarification - OCI is oil change interval not oil corrosion inhibitor. Gotta know your TLA's (3-letter acronyms...).

Won't get into catch can debate, either do it or don't, you're call. Personally, the science/tech arguments in favor of adding them I buy into, but with type of driving I do I'll never put one on, I won't need it period. People who use catch cans typically aren't worried about engine warranty claims, if that is a concern then guess what FoMoCo will do if you bring in a vehicle for an engine issue with a catch can installed (hint - claim denied! That's why usually recommended if you have a catch can then take it off before going to a dealership for engine warranty issues).

If you have a DI-only engine (like the 2.0), live in a really cold climate and 95% of your trips are 5-10 miles or less - or - run your engine hard (high rpm) and hot a lot , exclusively use the cheapest non-top tier gasoline you can find (generally lower detergent amount - yes your injectors and piston tops/valve undersides can carbon up too), go really long periods between oil changes, and your motor oil of choice is a no-name with really crappy Noack volatility numbers (API caps it at 15%, higher is worse/lower is better) - then yeah you might have a problem.

Gasoline dilution of motor oil in DI engines is a real thing, some engines are worse than others.

Don't worry be happy.

Yep, for me that is more of a concern than the carbon buildup, hence me throwing in that 3K as the minimum one should go on the 3-5K OCI schedule. 3K if petrol dilution is as big a concern for some as it is for me, 5K if one is only basically concerned about the carbon buildup.

OK, nuff said bout all that. As I only drive 3-4K per year the real bottom line for me is the fact, given my age, I will not live long enough to deal with these issues.

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