Read the specific post I’m responding to there. Not making a general statement but one specific to the question.
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Mileage is essentially meaningless, it likely calculates it through some combination of cold starts, high revs, and how many miles are on each trip.The fact that your OLM hits 0% within 3 months on your Hybrid gives me faith in the OLM system
However, an OLM that waits 10,000 miles on an EB before 0% causes me to lose my faith
The combination also includes a calendar that ticks the OLM down. Even the “20,000 Mile Oil” isn’t meant to stay in your engine longer than 12 months.
I took it to zero %.
10-11 months.
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It depends.
Longer than 1 year with daily use, no.
How about the guy who drives on vacations only, goes 2000 miles in one year, and the truck was stationary for 300 days a year?
It is recommended to change oil annually even if car is rarely or never driven. Oil degrades in several ways just sitting in an engine. The Maverick OLM should go to 0% after a year or so of sitting. My OLM has dropped 15% even though I’ve only driven about 100 miles. Changed my oil & reset OLM a little over a month ago.
A large part of anyone’s decrease in OLM % is due to the passing of time. Easy to see when you drive little but the OLM % drops.
Of course gasoline sitting in your tank degrades much quicker than the oil in your engine - but that is a different topic.
A large part of anyone’s decrease in OLM % is due to the passing of time. Easy to see when you drive little but the OLM % drops.
Of course gasoline sitting in your tank degrades much quicker than the oil in your engine - but that is a different topic.
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The 1 year recommendation is also made to cover all vehicles and has so many compromises / assumptions built in...
It covers the daily short tripper, the third vehicle that rarely drives, but goes on longer drives when it does, that one outside in the SW heat, or the one garaged in the NE, etc, etc.
Requiring a one-year interval no matter what - covers the whole range of low-mileage owners.
I would contend that, if tested, their oil would prove to be good to go for another 6-12 months in at least half of the vehicles. In less than half, it should be changed. So in order to cover their bases, OEMs say 1 year max, regardless of use/mileage.
If I drove that little and was out of warranty, I might be inclined to see how long my oil would last. But changing it costs the same as testing it - so why not just change it instead? Lots of debate at BITOG on similar topics, but it got so repetitive and not much new info seemed to come out.
So the simple answer: follow the OLM, especially if you're under warranty. Afterwards: suit yourself.
It covers the daily short tripper, the third vehicle that rarely drives, but goes on longer drives when it does, that one outside in the SW heat, or the one garaged in the NE, etc, etc.
Requiring a one-year interval no matter what - covers the whole range of low-mileage owners.
I would contend that, if tested, their oil would prove to be good to go for another 6-12 months in at least half of the vehicles. In less than half, it should be changed. So in order to cover their bases, OEMs say 1 year max, regardless of use/mileage.
If I drove that little and was out of warranty, I might be inclined to see how long my oil would last. But changing it costs the same as testing it - so why not just change it instead? Lots of debate at BITOG on similar topics, but it got so repetitive and not much new info seemed to come out.
So the simple answer: follow the OLM, especially if you're under warranty. Afterwards: suit yourself.
Once poured into an engine - the additives in modern motor oil degrade over time not just miles. The 12 month “expire by” date is from the oil maker not the car maker.
Sure, many products are safe to use beyond their “use by” date or expiration date. Modern motor oils are probably one of those fluids based on oil sample analysis results.
But just be aware that using fluids beyond their “expire date” may lose “flavor” - or worse yet make you “up chuck”.
Sure, many products are safe to use beyond their “use by” date or expiration date. Modern motor oils are probably one of those fluids based on oil sample analysis results.
But just be aware that using fluids beyond their “expire date” may lose “flavor” - or worse yet make you “up chuck”.
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I'm under the impression the OLM starts out doing math for the time factor, until it reaches a certain point and it appears the usage/mileage factor is going to be the ending.
So estimating when it will be close to 0% can't be done too early.
But perhaps EB does opposite of hybrid.
If purely by time from the start - it would be about 8.3% drop per month.
So yours at a little over a month ago, would be abouts 91% OLR.
And yet it's dropped 15%. Not time based yet.
I'm betting that's based on usage.
Cold usage, perhaps more idling in last month.
Or you are having fun in that Lobo!
Or the math from the start is different for EB.
Here's the start of the reset OLM after my 1st oil change on 4/11/25. (I missed the 0% date by 3 days - 4/8/24 was the truck activation date when dealer enabled those module tracking systems)
2 last columns where I math out what the mile or days would be at 0% OLM if rest of the usage matched what I'd done so far, rounding errors possible. Trip 2 is from last oil change, with mpg so far.
End of Oct highway trip to NY and back to KC didn't impact much except avg mpg. Or did it?
Notice I managed some fillups on almost exactly monthly dates. Not planned.
The Ford app was also giving some estimated remaining miles. Maybe because I was on time based math initially? Since that is Ford servers not the truck's algorithm - they can change that at a whim, they used to give estimated service date up to my 1st oil change. Seems like the formula for that Est Distance left is rather simple - 44% = 4400?
1 month in - 8% drop. (hmmm, 8.3, time based so far)
2 months in - 17% drop. (16.6 rounded)
3 months in - 25% drop. (5 days short, 24.9 rounded)
5 months in - 42% drop. (41.5 rounded)
6 months - 50% drop. (49.8 rounded)
7 months - 65% drop. (58% if still time based, after long trip now mileage based. Or after it hits 50% it changes method to whatever is shorter?)
And even though I don't have a Lariat that would have told me exactly how many engine miles were done - I know from logging what the avg weekly is normally, and that trip at almost 100% engine miles. The engine had abouts 6500 miles on it - less than 2500 being those gentle highway miles.
I'm not concerned with the algorithm on the OLM. I was when I got truck - hence the tracking of all the figures I could on it. (I was also concerned when I got the crema in oil cap - until I saw ICE only vehicles with it, driven plenty)
So for this thread:
Longest in time - I'd be shocked if someone got OLM taking them past 1 year when few hard miles are driven.
Longest in mileage - 14k seems to be the winner!
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5.12 *update* - after a road trip to Yosemite, I'm at 29,999 miles now and 37% oil life, with 5400 remaining estimate = 14,500 for potential oil change interval. So it went UP, with some high speed freeway driving, medium speed foothills and a few short trips around the Valley.
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This is something I have wondered about.
As you say, with a regular ICE, the starter spins it slowly, relying on something going BANG!!!! to get the party started.
Does the hybrid engine management hold off on spark/fuel until things are spinning well enough to produce oil pressure?
It really, really shouldn't. The OLM is doing math that has no basis in reality, on something that needs to be properly tested to accurately reflect. Here's my recent oil sample report, with 26,726 on the oil:The fact that your OLM hits 0% within 3 months on your Hybrid gives me faith in the OLM system
However, an OLM that waits 10,000 miles on an EB before 0% causes me to lose my faith
After this oil change on 4-23, the truck sat for a week getting the battery replaced, was back on the road 4-30, OLM hit 0% at 104,998 (or 5,821 miles) on 5-12, 1,750 of those miles being deadhead (no trailer attached).
So, just because I tow, the OLM drops to 0% in 2 weeks, with half the recommended miles, so I probably reset it 5-6 times in between actual oil changes.
Actually, I think I may have to start replacing the air filter more often than getting an oil change...
ETA: I would be interested to hear from an EB owner on what their reports look like, I suspect they will be fine past 10k even with "normal" drive cycles.
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Yes, though it does it so fast it's impossible for us to notice, in about 300ms or so, the generator spins the engine to ~1,000 RPM and then adds spark and fuel and backs off the generator at the same moment. You can experience what you can of this with a helper, or if you have good hearing: with vehicle in ready mode, hood open and window down, tap the accelerator. It's picky about how, it needs more than a little, but flooring it will cause it to rev up. Advice: don't blink.
Yes. And so long as you have battery charge, on a cold engine, only electric torque goes to the wheels. For the first 30 to 40 seconds, even if you are driving away, the engine's only job is to gently warm up.
You can hear and sometimes feel when the control system hands over the engine to start making torque.
Usually engine RPM stays at idle for 30 to 40 seconds, even if you are driving away.
If you press the go pedal far enough it overrides this gentle warmup and gives you the acceleration you ask for.
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