Replacing the Hybrid's OEM 12v. Battery

[Mikes22Mav]

I finally installed the China AGM Battery that I got for $150.00 with no core charge. I have had no more deep sleep mode for the last 3 months. I had a friend of mine do it with a telescoping magnet and socket. No removal of plastic and did it in In 30 minutes. The dealer time install says it is a 1 hour and 36 minutes repair and that's where they charge you over $200.00 just for the install of the $250.00 MotoCrap Battery!

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[Glen Baker LLC]

Sometimes conditions call for spending the extra dough, so you made the right call on having to pay more. I would put aside your worries. I've had the AGM replacement battery going on a year and a half with absolutely no problems or issues on my hybrid. From all evidence, it looks like the OEM battery was just junk to begin with. I'm sure Ford went with the cheapest option to keep costs down, but therein lies the lesson.

Unfortunately, automakers along with the lot of other manufacturers, will still go with the cheapest contract or vendor regardless.

 

[Dad]

Unfortunately, automakers along with the lot of other manufacturers, will still go with the cheapest contract or vendor regardless.

True. For some it's the difference between staying profitable and going out of business. Profit margins are minimal in many businesses. Hopefully, Ford learned a lesson that it cost them more in customer relations and the amount of time consumed by dealers trying to figure out why people were getting the sleep notice than whatever they thought they saved using a cheap battery.

 

[wheremav]

Just to confirm...

From the Amazon page, are we purchasing the H4/Group 140R or the H5 /Group 47 model?

Woke up to a truck that wouldn't unlock electronically nor start this morning.

 

[SafetyGuy]

Just to confirm...

From the Amazon page, are we purchasing the H4/Group 140R or the H5 /Group 47 model?

Woke up to a truck that wouldn't unlock electronically nor start this morning.

Good day, @wheremav

Just to confirm some background information, what battery you have currently?

My 2025 Hybrid uses the H4 battery with 540 Amp/50 amp hr by the way.

How old is your battery, have you had low battery indications earlier or was this possibly a sudden parasitic drain that occurred overnight?

Have you had all the updates carried out as appropriate for your truck?

Is your truck still under warranty? If it is, and you had a sudden parasitic battery drain the ACCM module may be responsible...and we don't want to replace an expensive battery just to have it possibly damaged as well if it happens again. Interaction with your dealer may be needed if updates are pending, etc.

Have you read over the manual about battery changing procedures?

There are plenty of posts here in the forum to help with suggestions about getting a booster pack for emergencies. Many here have them, i know I do. Mainly to boost there cars though.

As well, I would advocate for getting a smart battery charger (minimum 4-5 amp size) to help keep your batteries in top condition every couple of months.

You need an appropriate charger in order to fully charge your new battery!

Once it is topped up, carry out the battery swap as directed in the manual and as per the manual, carry out the BMS reset and go through the whole battery re-learn process.

Sorry for all the questions and suggestions, but with the little bit of info you provided in your query I thought it best to try and touch on everything...then if you have any additional questions, we do try to help where we can.

Have a good one,

Andy

 

[Suzukiridr14]

I've been following some of these threads due to my truck going into sleep mode now that the weather has turned colder. Same happened last year. The link you showed says it does not fit a 22 Maverick so I'm asking for verification.

I'm not one to fix things myself due to I'm not that ... how do I say ... I'm frankly afraid to do mechanical things myself because I may cause more damage than someone more experienced. Example being I had to replace the cabin filter due to a mouse getting up there and dying, and in the process, I broke a pin that holds the filter, but it didn't hinder the replacement. Can I take this battery to the Ford dealer and have them replace, or will they refuse due to it not being a Ford product, if you know?

I don't think Ford will do it, go find an independent shop and ask them.

 

[wheremav]

Good day, @wheremav

Just to confirm some background information, what battery you have currently?

My 2025 Hybrid uses the H4 battery with 540 Amp/50 amp hr by the way.

How old is your battery, have you had low battery indications earlier or was this possibly a sudden parasitic drain that occurred overnight?

Have you had all the updates carried out as appropriate for your truck?

Is your truck still under warranty? If it is, and you had a sudden parasitic battery drain the ACCM module may be responsible...and we don't want to replace an expensive battery just to have it possibly damaged as well if it happens again. Interaction with your dealer may be needed if updates are pending, etc.

Have you read over the manual about battery changing procedures?

There are plenty of posts here in the forum to help with suggestions about getting a booster pack for emergencies. Many here have them, i know I do. Mainly to boost there cars though.

As well, I would advocate for getting a smart battery charger (minimum 4-5 amp size) to help keep your batteries in top condition every couple of months.

You need an appropriate charger in order to fully charge your new battery!

Once it is topped up, carry out the battery swap as directed in the manual and as per the manual, carry out the BMS reset and go through the whole battery re-learn process.

Sorry for all the questions and suggestions, but with the little bit of info you provided in your query I thought it best to try and touch on everything...then if you have any additional questions, we do try to help where we can.

Have a good one,

Andy

Hi Andy,

I have a 2022 Ford Maverick Hybrid. Battery is OEM. I'm not sure if it was a parasitic drain, but I've noticed that my car was in "Battery Saving Mode" several times in the past year when attempting to utilize the ford app to lock/start the vehicle.

My truck is no longer under waranty.

I'm pretty sure I have like 10 open recalls that havent been taken care of, I just haven't had the time to take care of them (work full-time, 2 jobs, new dad, etc...) or be without my vehicle and it was working fine otherwise until today.

I also purchased the vehicle from a dealer out of state and don't have a good relationship with the local dealer here, but there are other dealerships I could bring it too I suppose. The problem is it won't start right now so I thought just replacing the battery would probably fix the thing, but now im reading it could be more involved then just swapping it out....

 

[SafetyGuy]

Hi Andy,

I have a 2022 Ford Maverick Hybrid. Battery is OEM. I'm not sure if it was a parasitic drain, but I've noticed that my car was in "Battery Saving Mode" several times in the past year when attempting to utilize the ford app to lock/start the vehicle.

My truck is no longer under waranty.

I'm pretty sure I have like 10 open recalls that havent been taken care of, I just haven't had the time to take care of them (work full-time, 2 jobs, new dad, etc...) or be without my vehicle and it was working fine otherwise until today.

I also purchased the vehicle from a dealer out of state and don't have a good relationship with the local dealer here, but there are other dealerships I could bring it too I suppose. The problem is it won't start right now so I thought just replacing the battery would probably fix the thing, but now im reading it could be more involved then just swapping it out....

I hear you, life gets very busy! And it doesn't help if your local dealership and you aren't on good terms.

It could be your truck is a good one as your battery has lasted this long before dying! A few others have various parasitic drain issues that require a visit to a dealer.

I wouldn't worry about all the updates right now, as you appear in a busy place right now...as long as everything was working okay. But they will need doing at some point convenient to you, hopefully.

It isn't too bad I imagine to swap it out. Just make sure to follow the manual direction on what to do before disconnecting the battery and changing it.

I also believe the H4 AGM battery is the appropriate battery to fit in your truck...the H5 I believe is for the Eco-boost.

Make sure you charge the new battery fully (with a smart agm appropriate battery charger with at least 4-5 amps) before installation and follow the BMS reset process so the truck knows you installed a brand new (and fully charged!) Battery and can hopefully learn its characteristics to maintain it.

Just remember in the process where it says to lock the truck up for 8 hours so the truck can figure out your battery, that the time is actually 9-10 hours!

Ford didn't factor in the time the truck needs to shut down (60-90 minutes for all the modules to go to sleep), so we recommend 9-10 hours here at MTC.

I just went back and looked at the first entry in this thread, and @Dad really explained how to do the battery swap, tools needed and everyrhing! Gotta like that as it helps people out big time!

Okay that is it for now, any questions, hopefully we can answer them for you as you go along.

Oh, one more thing, I have been recommending people get a voltage indicator that plugs into the 12 volt cigar lighter power port...it helps to become familiar with what our batteries need for charge values and also what your 12 volt battery charge level is. Just a thought.

Here is mine on action. Amazon has lots of choices or your local auto store as well.

Have a nice day,

Andy

 

[MakinDoForNow]

Hi Andy,

I have a 2022 Ford Maverick Hybrid. Battery is OEM. I'm not sure if it was a parasitic drain, but I've noticed that my car was in "Battery Saving Mode" several times in the past year when attempting to utilize the ford app to lock/start the vehicle.

My truck is no longer under waranty.

I'm pretty sure I have like 10 open recalls that havent been taken care of, I just haven't had the time to take care of them (work full-time, 2 jobs, new dad, etc...) or be without my vehicle and it was working fine otherwise until today.

I also purchased the vehicle from a dealer out of state and don't have a good relationship with the local dealer here, but there are other dealerships I could bring it too I suppose. The problem is it won't start right now so I thought just replacing the battery would probably fix the thing, but now im reading it could be more involved then just swapping it out....

If my schedule was such as I could not be without my maverick for any time I would put my Noco G5 on my oem battery (or a replacement not pre charging it if time did not permit) onto the under hood jump pins every night and locking the truck. After three to six weeks battery should be charged and recognized. Then put noco on jump pins every 2-3 months for 3-5 days ,(or when the dome light fails to illuminate when drivers door is opened).

 

[DS_Ohio]

i charge my batteries on the 1st of the month. i'm on the 2nd battery (from 03/25) replaced under warranty. Noco G5 charger. usually connect under the hood. hits a solid green after 3 hours or so. got a deep sleep msg sunday. drove 37.5 to work monday, deep sleep msg. drove home, deep sleep. drove to work tuesday, deep sleep, home, deep sleep.

connected to the battery terminals this morning directly. it was '1st red' light for over an hour. it's about 6 hours now and not to solid green yet. it's definitely acting differently then when it's 'behind' the bms hardware. going to do the flash five to pass, 3 brake checks on the tailgater when it hits full on the noco. i think a chinesium agm is in my future one day.

 

[HeyBales]

i charge my batteries on the 1st of the month. i'm on the 2nd battery (from 03/25) replaced under warranty. Noco G5 charger. usually connect under the hood. hits a solid green after 3 hours or so. got a deep sleep msg sunday. drove 37.5 to work monday, deep sleep msg. drove home, deep sleep. drove to work tuesday, deep sleep, home, deep sleep.

connected to the battery terminals this morning directly. it was '1st red' light for over an hour. it's about 6 hours now and not to solid green yet. it's definitely acting differently then when it's 'behind' the bms hardware. going to do the flash five to pass, 3 brake checks on the tailgater when it hits full on the noco. i think a chinesium agm is in my future one day.

So the battery took a nosedive compared to normal low?
And only 7 days from your charge up on the 1st?

Until the SOC% is corrected by a regular Relearn, the DSM isn't likely to change even recharged.

Do you normally lock it up overnight?
I wouldn't do the Reset, since battery is older and needs higher Amp charging, the reset will just say this is a new battery - which has less resistance and lower Amp charging.

If you normally lock it up overnight, you've had 2 days with no Relearns it sounds like. Maybe tonight's the night anyway.

But the nosedive effect - much lower than normal - sounds like you may have been hit with a parasitic drain on Sunday. Truck should have been inspired to charge higher, and it may have.
Not mileage based - how long does the 37 miles take you?

Using the AC now, or humid enough it might be coming on automatically without the button lit on Sunday?

 

[Dad]

I hear you, life gets very busy! And it doesn't help if your local dealership and you aren't on good terms.

It could be your truck is a good one as your battery has lasted this long before dying! A few others have various parasitic drain issues that require a visit to a dealer.

I wouldn't worry about all the updates right now, as you appear in a busy place right now...as long as everything was working okay. But they will need doing at some point convenient to you, hopefully.

It isn't too bad I imagine to swap it out. Just make sure to follow the manual direction on what to do before disconnecting the battery and changing it.

I also believe the H4 AGM battery is the appropriate battery to fit in your truck...the H5 I believe is for the Eco-boost.

Make sure you charge the new battery fully (with a smart agm appropriate battery charger with at least 4-5 amps) before installation and follow the BMS reset process so the truck knows you installed a brand new (and fully charged!) Battery and can hopefully learn its characteristics to maintain it.

Just remember in the process where it says to lock the truck up for 8 hours so the truck can figure out your battery, that the time is actually 9-10 hours!

Ford didn't factor in the time the truck needs to shut down (60-90 minutes for all the modules to go to sleep), so we recommend 9-10 hours here at MTC.

I just went back and looked at the first entry in this thread, and @Dad really explained how to do the battery swap, tools needed and everyrhing! Gotta like that as it helps people out big time!

Okay that is it for now, any questions, hopefully we can answer them for you as you go along.

Oh, one more thing, I have been recommending people get a voltage indicator that plugs into the 12 volt cigar lighter power port...it helps to become familiar with what our batteries need for charge values and also what your 12 volt battery charge level is. Just a thought.

Here is mine on action. Amazon has lots of choices or your local auto store as well.

Have a nice day,

Andy

Good advice given here. I especially liked the voltage indicator and ordered one after seeing yours. Thanks for adding more detailed information to this thread.

 

[MakinDoForNow]

i charge my batteries on the 1st of the month. i'm on the 2nd battery (from 03/25) replaced under warranty. Noco G5 charger. usually connect under the hood. hits a solid green after 3 hours or so. got a deep sleep msg sunday. drove 37.5 to work monday, deep sleep msg. drove home, deep sleep. drove to work tuesday, deep sleep, home, deep sleep.

connected to the battery terminals this morning directly. it was '1st red' light for over an hour. it's about 6 hours now and not to solid green yet. it's definitely acting differently then when it's 'behind' the bms hardware. going to do the flash five to pass, 3 brake checks on the tailgater when it hits full on the noco. i think a chinesium agm is in my future one day.

There are two solid green lights on the G5. The first is solid green with the red/orange lights still lit = battery to fully charged voltage. Shortly the orange lights will turn off and green light will start blinking again = the sulfation and optimization routines are running and will be complete when the green light is is solid and the red/orange lights are off. The solid green only is "standby" with checking periodically to see if further charging is needed. Do not set the G5 where any heat can influence it's programing as it can rest if it thinks the battery needs to cool down (not likely, but?). If you attach G5 to the battery the ground should be attached to body ground. The positive post is ok to use. When you connect under the hood are you getting a good connection to the negative jump post or the head of a bogy ground bolt?

 

[DS_Ohio]

So the battery took a nosedive compared to normal low?
And only 7 days from your charge up on the 1st?

Until the SOC% is corrected by a regular Relearn, the DSM isn't likely to change even recharged.

Do you normally lock it up overnight?
I wouldn't do the Reset, since battery is older and needs higher Amp charging, the reset will just say this is a new battery - which has less resistance and lower Amp charging.

If you normally lock it up overnight, you've had 2 days with no Relearns it sounds like. Maybe tonight's the night anyway.

But the nosedive effect - much lower than normal - sounds like you may have been hit with a parasitic drain on Sunday. Truck should have been inspired to charge higher, and it may have.
Not mileage based - how long does the 37 miles take you?

Using the AC now, or humid enough it might be coming on automatically without the button lit on Sunday?

Yes, i always leave it locked. Always.

37 miles takes about 50-55 minutes. That's one way, so 150 miles in 2 days. No A/C. I like to play the MPG game.

Never got to a solid single green on the Noco. Thinking the battery has gone bad like the original.

 

[DS_Ohio]

There are two solid green lights on the G5. The first is solid green with the red/orange lights still lit = battery to fully charged voltage. Shortly the orange lights will turn off and green light will start blinking again = the sulfation and optimization routines are running and will be complete when the green light is is solid and the red/orange lights are off. The solid green only is "standby" with checking periodically to see if further charging is needed. Do not set the G5 where any heat can influence it's programing as it can rest if it thinks the battery needs to cool down (not likely, but?). If you attach G5 to the battery the ground should be attached to body ground. The positive post is ok to use. When you connect under the hood are you getting a good connection to the negative jump post or the head of a bogy ground bolt?

When i charge under hood i connect the negative cable to the oddball vertical post on the driver side inner fender. The G5 is not anywhere near a heat source. It usually goes to a solid green after a couple hours. that's how it goes with my suburban, as well. I can move the negative to a body ground this morning and see what happens. Thanks for the input. I'm not too worked up, i'm just starting to lean to an agm battery. we shouldn't have to jump and dance to keep these hybrid 12v batteries alive.

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