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Replacing the Hybrid's OEM 12v. Battery

MakinDoForNow

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My point about the core - many times a price you see includes the core return.
Add $25, or $45 or whatever to the displayed price, unless you bring a core back.

My concern wasn't getting rid of a core.
If attempting the process to keep the last warranty replacement to sell, to then buy this one - there would be no core.

What's a used battery sell for? Never attempted one. Better than the core return?
If there is no payment for the core then sell it for scrap. Instead of just leaving it "free".
In Texas there is a $3 recycle charge added for 12v or larger $2 for less than 12v. Non refundable. The core $ is with or without by each seller. I think in Texas most use $8 for core but been long time since I checked. I think O'Reilly's gives $10 store credit for any old battery probably more if you have a real heavy one even if you did not buy from them. An h4 should weigh 25-35lb so worth 5-8 bucks scrap. Some will want flooded batteries drained but most don't. I had a friend around 1960 that gave $5 for any battery (he rebuilt batteries and sold lead to fishermen for weights). He would combine good cells from old batteries and sell them for $18-$22. Made about 2-3 times as much $/week as those mowing lawns and his happened year round. May want to keep your core if trying to collect warranty $.
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Matso

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I have a better solution, make the dealer replace the damn thing with what you need and don't worry about any of that stuff.
 
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Dad

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May be no different - until someone tears a couple down to compare.

But my point - local - a whole lot easier to deal with a warranty replacement.

What's the process if the Amazon battery goes dead in 11 months?
I know what it is at Walmart.
According to Amazon, the UPLUS battery has a 3yr warranty and they have fixed offices in CA & GA., but no mention of how one would replace other than hands on. I know some vendors would just say keep the bad battery and they will just ship you a replacement. I would agree having the convenience of a Walmart network would make returns much easier and faster.
 

redputter

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Recommend to purchase directly through www.uplusbatteries.com and try to use "Code 10UPLUS5CJ0EVH8" to see if you possibly get the 10% off the battery. Their original price was $139.99 minus $13.99 discount = cost of #126.00 with FREE shipping. Plus they offer very fast shipping and probably since buying it directly through the battery company website we hope for great warranty if needed. Good Luck BUT THIS NEW BATTERY IMMEDIATELY GOT RID OF THE DRASTIC BATTERY SLEEP MODE ISSUES!
Discount is working today - Just ordered one.
I have a '23 and already had my OEM replaced once. Now at 40k miles I'm just going to buy this and hopefully be much better off for a long time
 

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Glen Baker LLC

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I have a better solution, make the dealer replace the damn thing with what you need and don't worry about any of that stuff.
For a lot of people, dealing with the dealership is a pain in the 🍑
Making an appointment, sitting at the dealership for God knows how long, while they run their diagnostics. Fuhgeddaboudit
Now that the H4, AGM is available at Walmart. When the time comes, in or out of warranty, tomorrow or two years from now. I'm not screwing around with a dealership or the internet.
I'm going to Walmart and pick up one of these H4 AGM's for $180 plus tax.
It comes with a 4-Year Free Warranty.

Core handling done right at the store.
No muss, no fuss, no extra trips.
That way I get the battery that I want. Without the dealership BS.
Ford Maverick Replacing the Hybrid's OEM 12v. Battery 20251006_085203
 
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Matso

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That's all good, sounds really good. Two points from my perspective: I don't wait around at the dealer, they always give me a loaner so I'm in, I'm out and I return when they call me, them's the rules. And second, you may have a good warranty on your new battery that YOU paid for but there is no guarantee it will be the remedy for your problem. So it remains YOUR problem. I'm not screwing around with that.
 

Buzzmiller

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Glen Baker LLC

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That's all good, sounds really good. Two points from my perspective: I don't wait around at the dealer, they always give me a loaner so I'm in, I'm out and I return when they call me, them's the rules. And second, you may have a good warranty on your new battery that YOU paid for but there is no guarantee it will be the remedy for your problem. So it remains YOUR problem. I'm not screwing around with that.
Has Ford been able to find the problem with your 2024 Lariat since they have replaced 3 batteries?
 

Matso

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Nope, they sure have not. And the AGM they finally put in made no difference. I'll be honest in saying this whole problem has been a major PITA. But I refuse to allow it to be my permanent problem. My plan is to get back everything I paid for this vehicle. But that's only possible if you stick to playing the game. This is why I caution members against trying to fix it themselves. You have to have the paper trail and the time in the shop. Although you might get lucky with the DYI program, I had the feeling I would not. Best of luck.
 
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Buzzmiller

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You’re smart to go with the H4 size as it requires no modification. I bought my AGM on Amazon. Good price and delivered. I don’t recall if I posted the link earlier in this thread, so here it is again.
https://a.co/d/4L2mk29
I've seen many a thread about how the hybrid's 12v battery is woefully inadequate and after 34 months my OEM battery finally got the point where it wouldn't start the truck. Thanks to several members here, specifically @Glen Baker LLC, I found a AGM replacement battery from Amazon and installed it today. Very satisfied with the install. The battery fit perfectly without any type of modification to the tray. Took a bit of doing to remove the original . . . mostly just figuring out where the holding clamp was located and navigating the thing out of it's bed.
I tried YouTube for a how-to and wow, was that disappointing. The one I found consisted of jerky and fast camera movements, almost no instructional context, and the capper was after finally getting it out, the installers realized the replacement was too big! Good grief! Why they published that is beyond me.

Anyway, this will serve not so much as a how-to replace the battery, but more of what you should have on hand before you begin.
Naturally, you'll need the battery.
I got mine from Amazon. Great price, 3 year warranty and 570 CCA The best feature of this battery is that it is an exact duplicate of the OEM and so it fit perfectly. No tabs to bend or cut. No plastic to trim.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CM3KNG1H?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title

You'll also need the following:
  • 10mm socket (this will fit the nut holding the cable clamps on the terminals)
  • 1/4 drive with at least an 8" extension to get to the holding clamp on the passenger side of the battery. I recommend using a 10mm socket with a built-in magnetic holder so you can better align and hold the bolt when you try to put back in. Tough to get your fingers down in that narrow slot.
  • Telescoping magnetic pick up tool. Absolutely necessary for removing the holding clamp and replacing it.
  • Long blade screwdriver. You'll need to adjust the holding clamp over it's securing hole once you get it dropped in there and it will also serve to hold it down so you can retract the magnet pick-up tool.
  • You'll need something to keep the negative cable away from the battery bay otherwise it just gets in the way as you try to remove one battery and put in the new one. I zip tied mine to a small dumbbell.
Remember to reconnect the vent tubing and reset your BMS after install.

One last note: Amazon will give you a message that this battery will not fit your Maverick. Ignore that. It pops up because the Maverick hybrid's stock battery is not an AGM type. It fits perfectly.

*UPDATE* Battery has been in for a week with no negative issues. One minor, but welcomed result is that the dome courtesy lights come on when I enter the truck at night. Before the new battery, they did not light up which was inconvenient and frankly a bit irritating towards Ford for lousy quality.
I frickin had the trim out and battery leads off in about five minutes and then went to loosen the 10mm bolt that goes thru the floor for that clamp that keeps the battery in place. Dang thing snapped right off, the factory put loctite on the threads, was able to drill it out with a smaller diameter bit, thanks god it wasnt hardened and remove the stub from underneath, whew what a bear.
 

Glen Baker LLC

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Nope, they sure have not. And the AGM they finally put in made no difference. I'll be honest in saying this whole problem has been a major PITA. But I refuse to allow it to be my permanent problem. My plan is to get back everything I paid for this vehicle. But that's only possible if you stick to playing the game. This is why I caution members against trying to fix it themselves. You have to have the paper trail and the time in the shop. Although you might get lucky with the DYI program, I had the feeling I would not. Best of luck.
You have a history of battery related problems with your Maverick. Unfortunately you're one of the Unlucky ones that has this continuing problem. I'm truly sorry you're having this bad experience with your Maverick. I understand why you're holding the Dealer's feet to the fire.

I have a 2023 XLT, Hybrid. With a manufactured date of January 2023.
My Maverick has the original flooded battery. Last year had two occurrences, of the interior light not turning on when opening the doors. They were a few weeks apart.
It was at that point, I installed a small charger/maintainer. I hooked it directly to the battery terminals,😱 last I checked the sky didn't fall.
Ford Maverick Replacing the Hybrid's OEM 12v. Battery 20251007_100644

I charged the battery overnight and then I did a BCM relearn in the morning. Small road trip to Elko Nevada, for July 4th. I reinstalled fuse 11/12. Still good.
Just in case, the charger is still hooked up directly to the battery.
it's been almost a year and I haven't had any problems.
 
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Matso

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Good for you, you're one of the lucky ones. Early on out of frustration I actually did all of that myself but to no avail. It's been back to the dealer ever since.
 

rknrbt

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Update: for those of you who have a bad battery and ford is only offering to replace with same BXT battery DEMAND the AGM and if Ford refuses let them know that if you have to pay for an AGM replacement that you will file a complaint with BBB Auto Line. That is what I did and Ford agreed to reimburse me in full for the money I spent.
 
 







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