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Replacing the Hybrid's OEM 12v. Battery

Matso

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Not as cheap as having the dealer install one under warranty.
 

Mikes22Mav

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Here is a post from a member.
Fit perfectly.
Screenshot_2024-11-15-17-53-02-91_40deb401b9ffe8e1df2f1cc5ba480b12.webp


I have found Amazon to be wrong at times such as in the ad below👇
20241108_073409.webp
Here is a post from a member.
Fit perfectly.
Screenshot_2024-11-15-17-53-02-91_40deb401b9ffe8e1df2f1cc5ba480b12.webp


I have found Amazon to be wrong at times such as in the ad below👇
20241108_073409.webp
I notice the plastic surrounding the battery in this picture has been removed. How difficult is it to remove the plastic because it seems to be very easy to get to the battery like this. FYI, I measured the factory battery and the new battery spec are the exact same dimensions.
 

Glen Baker LLC

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I notice the plastic surrounding the battery in this picture has been removed. How difficult is it to remove the plastic because it seems to be very easy to get to the battery like this. FYI, I measured the factory battery and the new battery spec are the exact same dimensions.
I haven't the slightest idea. I have not removed my battery. You'll have to DM the the member who I quoted.
 

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bighap

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I notice the plastic surrounding the battery in this picture has been removed. How difficult is it to remove the plastic because it seems to be very easy to get to the battery like this. FYI, I measured the factory battery and the new battery spec are the exact same dimensions.
It wasn't very hard. They basically pop out. Here is a video.

 

NedF

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I notice the plastic surrounding the battery in this picture has been removed. How difficult is it to remove the plastic because it seems to be very easy to get to the battery like this. FYI, I measured the factory battery and the new battery spec are the exact same dimensions.
I replaced mine with a similar sized battery (footprint was almost exactly the same but it was ever so slightly taller - AGM) without removing the plastic. It was a little tight to get the nut back on the bracket but it was do-able. I ended up holding the bolt on to the socket using a small piece of cardboard as a wedge and fished it back out after it was attached using a flexible 4 claw crabber. Easy peazy!
 

jodiemon

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Dropping my 22 Hybrid at Ford tomorrow, battery has been dying since I went a did a a repair involving my fuel pump. I've been having to jump my car more than a hand full of times since the repair. Battery was dead last night but then without jumping it this morning it started. Dropping off my truck at Ford since I'm 65000 miles and I think I still have warranty for electrical if this is the issue, they mentioned they would could waive the diagnostic.
 

Mavster Mechanic

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I think with Hybrids the battery voltage is all that matters.

It's either above x or below x.

It will start fine or not even try.
There is no "weak" or "borderline" state.
There is no such thing as a "hard start".
There is no "cranking" so "cranking amps" don't matter.

Your high voltage battery starts the truck.

So letting an aged 12v battery "rest" and gain a little what they call "surface voltage" was enough to get you over the "x" threshold.
 
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HeyBales

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It wasn't very hard. They basically pop out. Here is a video.

It was good to confirm what the backside looks like on the pop-outs.

Funny on the reassemble.
Shows how even a simple thing not done frequently can have errors on assembly.

He basically proved no removal of plastic needed - with extension & magnet.
Good time to get one of those 1/4 & 3/8 magnet rachet addons from Harbor Freight.

Was hoping he'd touch on the very next instructions in the manual for the BMS Relearn.
Just as important since he said new battery - now let the system confirm it by locking truck up overnight - just in case that normally isn't done.
 

jodiemon

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I think with Hybrids the battery voltage is all that matters.

It's either above x or below x.

It will start fine or not even try.
There is no "weak" or "borderline" state.
There is no such thing as a "hard start".
There is no "cranking" so "cranking amps" don't matter.

Your high voltage battery starts the truck.

So letting an aged 12v battery "rest" and gain a little what they call "surface voltage" was enough to get you over the "x" threshold.
Think I'm good taking this to dealership to see if any parasitic drain caused from my repair or should I just go buy a Agm and install it?
When I metered my battery it said 92% health and 42% charge
 

HeyBales

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Think I'm good taking this to dealership to see if any parasitic drain caused from my repair or should I just go buy a Agm and install it?
When I metered my battery it said 92% health and 42% charge
Almost to what seems to be the 39% warranty line.
But they also can run a load test to discover that may be bad enough to warrant a new battery too.

With as many jumps as you had to do - you may have something with excessive drain during the 75 min before everything should go to sleep mode.
That should be an easy test for them while it's charging up - compared to say overnight parasitic drain. I've not seen in the manual expected values during that max 75 min, but it shouldn't be like overhead light level of power being used.
The SSM for updating the ACCM software module could be it too. That's considered an intermittent drain - dead battery in a day or two.
Perhaps yours is really in confused state and doing it not so intermittently.
 

Mavster Mechanic

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After 2 hour drive this:
Key to run in park.
Headlamps on.
65 SOC the entire drive
Ford Maverick Replacing the Hybrid's OEM 12v. Battery IMG_6338


2 seconds after key is moved to off.
Headlamps on.

Ford Maverick Replacing the Hybrid's OEM 12v. Battery IMG_6339
 

Jerseysteve68

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I've seen many a thread about how the hybrid's 12v battery is woefully inadequate and after 34 months my OEM battery finally got the point where it wouldn't start the truck. Thanks to several members here, specifically @Glen Baker LLC, I found a AGM replacement battery from Amazon and installed it today. Very satisfied with the install. The battery fit perfectly without any type of modification to the tray. Took a bit of doing to remove the original . . . mostly just figuring out where the holding clamp was located and navigating the thing out of it's bed.
I tried YouTube for a how-to and wow, was that disappointing. The one I found consisted of jerky and fast camera movements, almost no instructional context, and the capper was after finally getting it out, the installers realized the replacement was too big! Good grief! Why they published that is beyond me.

Anyway, this will serve not so much as a how-to replace the battery, but more of what you should have on hand before you begin.
Naturally, you'll need the battery.
I got mine from Amazon. Great price, 3 year warranty and 570 CCA The best feature of this battery is that it is an exact duplicate of the OEM and so it fit perfectly. No tabs to bend or cut. No plastic to trim.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CM3KNG1H?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title

You'll also need the following:
  • 10mm socket (this will fit the nut holding the cable clamps on the terminals)
  • 1/4 drive with at least an 8" extension to get to the holding clamp on the passenger side of the battery. I recommend using a 10mm socket with a built-in magnetic holder so you can better align and hold the bolt when you try to put back in. Tough to get your fingers down in that narrow slot.
  • Telescoping magnetic pick up tool. Absolutely necessary for removing the holding clamp and replacing it.
  • Long blade screwdriver. You'll need to adjust the holding clamp over it's securing hole once you get it dropped in there and it will also serve to hold it down so you can retract the magnet pick-up tool.
  • You'll need something to keep the negative cable away from the battery bay otherwise it just gets in the way as you try to remove one battery and put in the new one. I zip tied mine to a small dumbbell.
Remember to reconnect the vent tubing and reset your BMS after install.

One last note: Amazon will give you a message that this battery will not fit your Maverick. Ignore that. It pops up because the Maverick hybrid's stock battery is not an AGM type. It fits perfectly.

*UPDATE* Battery has been in for a week with no negative issues. One minor, but welcomed result is that the dome courtesy lights come on when I enter the truck at night. Before the new battery, they did not light up which was inconvenient and frankly a bit irritating towards Ford for lousy quality.
I just wanted to also verify that this battery does fit (2022 Lariat). I just had it installed this morning, so I can't speak to its effectiveness. Although the radio didn't cut off almost immediately like it had been doing. Fingers crossed for limiting battery saver mode.
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