I am not buying extended warranty

[Billy2mav]

I'm no really sure how it works, is it 5 years after the 3 years? will ask them and find out.
By the way once I'm done with the deal will let you guys see the number, general info is always good to have.

If your getting 2 yrs/ 24k miles after 3/36 for $810 it sounds good.

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[pigsareus]

I'm similar to you my 22 eco was 21,700 + tax,tag,dealer doc. Not similar is my gas engine can be worked on anywhere, dealer labor are not a concern. Either way we got a great price on our first gen.

yeah there was something to be said in just slapping down a deposit on a 1st model year truck that (at least I) had never driven or even sat in and only saw in person the day before the ordering deadline arrived and then waited a year for it to (possibly) show up all the while just praying that my '03 Lincoln Aviator that got a massive 12 MPG would just get thru another year and magically ..it all worked out.

 

[710-oil-614]

I'm no really sure how it works, is it 5 years after the 3 years? will ask them and find out.
By the way once I'm done with the deal will let you guys see the number, general info is always good to have.

When you purchase a Ford extended warranty what you are buying is from the new (or in service date) of the your vehicle.

So if you buy a 10 yr / 120k mile extended warranty it is only good for 10 years and 120k miles, whichever comes first. It is not 13 years and 156k miles of coverage.

 

[710-oil-614]

I am about to finish the deal on a 25 Eco boost lariat with the Granger guys, in all honesty the 5 years 60000 miles for $810 does look attractive.

Your vehicle already has a 5 yr/60k powertrain warranty.

You'll be paying $810 (plus tax) for 2 years and 24k miles of additional bumper to bumper coverage which may or may not include the LED lights.

I would actually say that is not a good deal.

 

[Billy2mav]

yeah there was something to be said in just slapping down a deposit on a 1st model year truck that (at least I) had never driven or even sat in and only saw in person the day before the ordering deadline arrived and then waited a year for it to (possibly) show up all the while just praying that my '03 Lincoln Aviator that got a massive 12 MPG would just get thru another year and magically ..it all worked out.

You had a much worse experience then i did,Yes I put down a $100 refundable deposit but I felt good about getting a new truck that everyone wanted and no else had. The anticipation made the deliver all that more sweet.

 

[gjallen3]

I'm no really sure how it works, is it 5 years after the 3 years? will ask them and find out.
By the way once I'm done with the deal will let you guys see the number, general info is always good to have.

It’s 5 years total from the day the truck was sold. So you are really paying for two more years.

 

[YV1227]

Are most of the items covered? what should be included?

 

[gjallen3]

Are most of the items covered? what should be included?

It depends on the plan. The premium plan covers just about everything the same as what you have with the 3 year 36K plan. However it does not cover lighting. If your headlight goes out they are not a simple bulb replacement any more. You need to replace the whole thing and parts alone are north of $1000. That is what convinced me to extend the warranty and pay the additional $70 add on to cover the lighting. Over $2400 to extend it out to 10 years and or 100K miles. I'm too old now to screw around with doing repairs myself, but I intend to keep the truck for at least 10 years.

 

[JohnCondren1933]

I am coming to the end of my 3/36 warranty, with only a 1200 miles and 4 month left I have decided not to buy a extended warranty. My Maverick has been problem free and yes I know that doesn't guarantee a problem free future but I am going to take my chances.

I've looked at a bunch of these warranty programs and they're all wanting to scream about their massive powertrain warranties while disclaiming most electrical systems that arent part of the powertrain - where IMO anecdotally is where virtually ALL the modern money pit vehicle problems come from :/

the reality with modern vehicles is the power trains are very robust thanks to 20 years of the EPA demanding engines only can burn trace amounts of oil for 100,000 miles for the catalytic convertet to function & meet emissions.

We have amazing long lasting powertrains, but we keep cramming so many new electronic controllers in vehicles overloading that 12VDC battery supply, and they are increasingly tied into the powertrain, electronic stability control modulating brakes to prevent wheel spin,
2025 Maverick windshield camera-driven emergency braking & lane-keep, God help you if that system has problems, smash your windshield the emergency braking & lane-assist camera will have to be attached & recalibrated with specialized (pricey) equipment, then theres OTA updates & everything in a digital screen,
electronics and electrical issues are what will keep modern vehicles in the shop for 3 months, not powertrain.

Probably money better spent just buying a newly crashed Maverick & stripping it of electronic controllers & the displays, & maybe even the wiring harnesses.

 

[f1jim]

I might disagree with the assessment that power trains are reasonably reliable. Most manufacturers in the last 5-7 years have have numerous power train problems with their vehicles. Even the marques known for bullet proof power trains like Toyota and Honda have had recent runs of problems across numerous engines and transmissions, as well as CVT's.

 

[gjallen3]

Can you get a totaled one for less than $2400 with parts intact to salvage? Do you have the time and patience to break it all down? Not me. The way I look at it I am extending the warranty for another seven years from the original. That is 84 months. I've paid $2400 for the ESP. $2400 divided by 84 is $28.57 per month. Well worth it to me to not have to worry about it until after 2034. If I dispose of the vehicle before then I get some of the payment back.
Another thing to think about is the fact that any repairs will be performed at a Ford Dealer. They won't skimp and may go the extra mile to do it right when they know corporate is on the hook for the bill. I don't want to take it to a repair shop where I'm pinching pennies on a repair that ends up being put together with bubble gum and scotch tape.

 

[710-oil-614]

It depends on the plan. The premium plan covers just about everything the same as what you have with the 3 year 36K plan. However it does not cover lighting. If your headlight goes out they are not a simple bulb replacement any more. You need to replace the whole thing and parts alone are north of $1000. That is what convinced me to extend the warranty and pay the additional $70 add on to cover the lighting. Over $2400 to extend it out to 10 years and or 100K miles. I'm too old now to screw around with doing repairs myself, but I intend to keep the truck for at least 10 years.

My 2023 Tremor - 10/120k, w lighting and rental ($200 deductible which I don't think they offer anymore) was $2,319.xx.

For 2025 AWD Lariat Hybrid - 10/12k, w lighting and rental ($100 deductible only option) it has ballooned to $3,900 and change. No thank you.

 

[JohnCondren1933]

The hybrid technology is covered for 8 years and 100k miles and my EB power train is covered for 5yrs and 60k miles. No guarantees but I like the odds.

Dude based on previous Ford Escape Hybrid vehicles, your hybrid powertrain by itself is probably gtg 200,000+ miles but thats not what will shut you down it's all the damn "technology" the immobilizer module controlling engine, inverter, hybrid-electric motor-generator, anything screws up you don't drive, how about OTA vehicle firmware update module, if you've enabled anti theft tracking module & it goes awry & thinks it's stolen, camera-modulated emergency braking & lane-keep assist, that's little electric motors controlling your steering rack and providing feedback torque on your steering wheel, thankfully that can be turned off in settings if it stops working.

The electronic controllers & electrical issues is what will get really expensive fast!!

That's why for non-hybrid it should be a no-brainer buy the best highest CCA AGM 12vdc battery and replace it every 3 years just friggin do it! Every time there's a current inrush pulling voltage down from cold-starting, you're stressing the electronic components, 12Volts DC does not take much of a voltage drop to hurt sensitive electronics & when you have electronic ride control, steering, braking assist, traction control, etc, thats a lot more current draw than cars 15 years ago had.

I think the hybrid traction battery stabilizing the 12VDC battery voltage does a lot to keep the 12VDC components from being stressed - but while hybrid has a simple reliable motor-generator transmission with few moving parts, it adds to electrical with an expensive inverter, traction battery & charging circuitry.

Hybrids I would be religious about changing the hybrid-drive coolant & flushing the system, with proper cooling a hybrid drive will about last forever, replace 5 roller-bearings & oil seals every 100k miles super easy to do, but too much heat will destroy electric drives much faster than a hydraulic transmission

 

[Billy2mav]

Dude based on previous Ford Escape Hybrid vehicles, your hybrid powertrain by itself is probably gtg 200,000+ miles but thats not what will shut you down it's all the damn "technology" the immobilizer module controlling engine, inverter, hybrid-electric motor-generator, anything screws up you don't drive, how about OTA vehicle firmware update module, if you've enabled anti theft tracking module & it goes awry & thinks it's stolen, camera-modulated emergency braking & lane-keep assist, that's little electric motors controlling your steering rack and providing feedback torque on your steering wheel, thankfully that can be turned off in settings if it stops working.

The electronic controllers & electrical issues is what will get really expensive fast!!

That's why for non-hybrid it should be a no-brainer buy the best highest CCA AGM 12vdc battery and replace it every 3 years just friggin do it! Every time there's a current inrush pulling voltage down from cold-starting, you're stressing the electronic components, 12Volts DC does not take much of a voltage drop to hurt sensitive electronics & when you have electronic ride control, steering, braking assist, traction control, etc, thats a lot more current draw than cars 15 years ago had.

I think the hybrid traction battery stabilizing the 12VDC battery voltage does a lot to keep the 12VDC components from being stressed - but while hybrid has a simple reliable motor-generator transmission with few moving parts, it adds to electrical with an expensive inverter, traction battery & charging circuitry.

Hybrids I would be religious about changing the hybrid-drive coolant & flushing the system, with proper cooling a hybrid drive will about last forever, replace 5 roller-bearings & oil seals every 100k miles super easy to do, but too much heat will destroy electric drives much faster than a hydraulic transmission

Thanks for the information on the electronic systems. It was insightful and helpful.

 

[Secash1113]

Like all above, I've always avoided extended warranty but when I bought my 24 I was offered an extended warranty actually managed by the owners of the Ford dealership I bought it from. It was tied into the purchase price and was so inexpensive I couldn't refuse. My deductible is $100 and covers everything except normal wear and tear for as long as I own it!!!!!

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