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Best all around "readily available" oil for the 2.0 Ecoboost?

Mdmac

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Why not just use the Motorcraft full synthetic and Motorcraft filter?
That's exactly what I thought? It is what Ford recommendations and they should know
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Snox801

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In the early days of synthetic I used Mobil 1--Amsoil came along and my son is hooked and insists we use Amsoil. Not sure brand is that important but regular oil/filter changes with modern turbo engines is critical and I do it at 3,000 miles whether it needs it or not!
This is completely wrong. The brand of oil is definitely a factor. Also 3k mile oil changes are not the rule anymore.
Simple oil analysis tells us both. One oil may indeed need 3k others not. Only way to truly tell if you are on the right track is analysis.
 

Snox801

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That's exactly what I thought? It is what Ford recommendations and they should know
Because ford is not the best at recommending the correct stuff always.
But it’s not bad oil, but a simple search shows many others are simply better.
Especially when the op said he wants to keep it forever. Better question would be. Why wouldn’t you want the best? Nothing wrong with wanting to have the best product, tool, or service for the job.
 

boxster03

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I believe there was a recent test on quality additives in synthetic oils and Valvoline had the most
 
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Because ford is not the best at recommending the correct stuff always.
But it’s not bad oil, but a simple search shows many others are simply better.
Especially when the op said he wants to keep it forever. Better question would be. Why wouldn’t you want the best? Nothing wrong with wanting to have the best product, tool, or service for the job.
This is true, they say semi synthetic is good enough, only time I've run semi synthetic instead of full synthetic is on vehicles that call for conventional (because the intervals they called for were a stretch on conventional oils, they break down a lot earlier than synthetics)

Likewise they say you can run 87 octane fuel, but if it's summer and you're towing you should use 91. You're better off using full synthetic and running 91 or 92 (depending on what's available near you) all year round even if you're not towing. (Even in the off chance your turbo doesn't thank you)

M1 EP and others meet and exceed the standards of the Motocraft oil.

You can always use a better oil, you can always do oil changes early. It is difficult if not impossible to hurt an engine that way. (The most likely damage is needing to replace the drain plug earlier if you're having idiots do the work)

For a full synthetic that's rated for 20k in certain applications (like M1 EP) 3K is well beyond overkill. 5k oil changes for standard duty are definitely still excessive but at least a little understandable given typically that's around the typical severe duty mileage for a 10k standard duty interval.

Modern vehicles including the Maverick have sensors that factor in the vehicle's estimation of what specific kind of duty cycle it's being driven in. Personally, I'm running full synthetic and looking at that life meter and using some common sense (and probably won't be changing before 7.5k miles unless it says it's getting close to needing it). (But I'm probably only looking to put like 150k miles on it, if you're looking to put 250k+ [or even if you're not] by all means change it at 5k with the best oil you can buy if you want, it's your truck after all.)
 

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Jalopy Technology

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That's exactly what I thought? It is what Ford recommendations and they should know
They also market and sell those products... so theres that!

I have nothing against Motorcraft oil or filters . I use Pennzoil Ultra Platinum Synthetic and a full size Baldwin B2 filter.

Mobil 1 is fine. I like the extra shear stability of the Ultra Platinum but thats me.

I use Federated Parts store brand in my other vehicles. Made by Warren Oil same as Costco and Wally World oils.
 

Richard2212

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Yes, they are indeed decent oils. But there is a difference between those and Mobil 1 as well as other top tier brands. The additive package isn't the same. I'm told the newer direct injection engines benefit from a more robust additive package. Early oil change intervals would seem likely using an "inferior" oil, but at what point does it cost less/more?
Use the best oil of 5w-20 or 5w-30. The 20 viscosity oil may give you and immeasurable MPG gain. I personally prefer the extra protection of the 30 viscosity oil.
 
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grumpyunk

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UniversityOfPi: Modern vehicles including the Maverick have sensors that factor in the vehicle's estimation of what specific kind of duty cycle it's being driven in.

Do you have documentation that the sensor system is anything more than a clock? My driving annually is less than 2400 miles, but 1,000 of those were freeway trips, 500 miles each way. The rest of the trips are not short trips to the grocery, but are ~30 miles at a time. I purposely do not do short trips. The oil monitor demands an oil change at about 12 month intervals no matter the miles.
The first two changes had oil that was still golden, and had no particular odor, but the third definited was darker, and had an unidentiable odor that was nothing like the oil I have drained over the last ~60 years. Definitely different. I think it was Quaker State in a gold colored container that smelled so bad. FWIW. Point being that I am not a frequent user of the turbo power, and do longish drives with very minimal short trips, but still the oil monitor indicated a change is needed, like clockwork.
tom
 

todd92

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Another oil thread full of misinformation and gibberish!
 
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Redline

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This is readily available at Walmart and if my truck does kick the bucket one day, it won't be because of the oil. 😬

Ford Maverick Best all around "readily available" oil for the 2.0 Ecoboost? IMG_20240913_200346775
 
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Do you have documentation that the sensor system is anything more than a clock?
The owners manual says it's more than simply a clock/odometer based. The service manual goes into slightly more depth: "The instrument cluster provides messages to inform the driver about the engine oil life status, engine oil life reset status and when an engine oil change is required. The duration of the interval between engine oil changes is calculated in the PCM and varies due to driving conditions. The PCM assumes a base mileage of 16,090 km (10,000 mi) or 1 year for normal driving. However, this number is adjusted down for conditions such as high engine temperature, high engine rpm, use of flex fuel and possibly low engine oil level. The PCM calculates and provides the engine oil life percent message to the IPC . The engine oil change minder can be reset at any time by the driver."

How exactly the PCM makes the calculation or what data precisely it's pulling, I can't tell you, but there is lots of documentation it isn't simply a clock/mileage countdown.

These sorts of systems are common on modern cars and have been very common on heavy trucks for even longer. Though it is worth noting these systems monitor how the engine is performing between oil changes not testing the oil directly to make the oil life determination.
 

AzureBlueBill

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Just use full synthetic oil that meets the required specifications. Because it was cheaper than anything else here, I recently bought O'Reilly Auto Parts full synthetic oil for mine, and have always used Wix filters. Brand of oil does not matter, as long as it meets specs and you change it at least as often as dictated by the warranty.
 

grumpyunk

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Brand matters somewhat. You might check with Project Farm for his comparison. The Oil Geek channel on YT also did some comparison. The spec sets a 'low' acceptable limit, and some of the higher priced(NOT ALL!!) have stronger additive packages. The Wally/Costco/etc likely all meet the standard, but they are not all exactly the same. If you drive without a lot of stop and go, without a bunch of 'short trips', any should be fine, especially if you change at a 5k interval. If you want to go to the 10k limit, get the best full synthetic you can find. IMO. That and a nickle...
tom
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