Hybrid Brake Fluid Flush Cost?

[dalola]

I understand what you’re trying to say. But fact is that just doesn’t happen with modern automobiles. In fact go to an automotive shop. Ask them
When the last time they had to replace brake components because of internal corrosion.
As someone who owns many many cars. And who maintains a fleet of work vehicles most which have over 300k. I have yet to see that.

Last year I purchased a 95 yes 95 mustang. Brake fluid has never been changed since new. So the car got the full service. What didn’t it have. Any hint of this incredible damage inside the caliper, lines, or any other part. That’s a long time. In fact by the sounds of it, it should ah e rusted from the Inside out.
Now again I’m not saying he shouldn’t change his fluid. But your take is a bit chicken little here.

lol.... I'm not sure why you are playing both sides of this....by your anecdotal evidence, it's not necessary to ever change brake fluid, but yet you also suggest it's a good idea to do it anyway.

Of course, people can do as they please, but this is a suggested maintenance procedure for a reason. Either do it, or don't, but the facts remain. For optimum braking performance & parts longevity, it should be flushed every 2-3 years. This is FACT. If you don't need/want optimum brake performance, you are lazy, you have no money, you don't care, you think you know better, whatever the reason, is a separate conversation.

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[Snox801]

lol.... I'm not sure why you are playing both sides of this....by your anecdotal evidence, it's not necessary to ever change brake fluid, but yet you also suggest it's a good idea to do it anyway.

Of course, people can do as they please, but this is a suggested maintenance procedure for a reason. Either do it, or don't, but the facts remain. For optimum braking performance & parts longevity, it should be flushed every 2-3 years. This is FACT. If you don't need/want optimum brake performance, you are lazy, you have no money, you don't care, you think you know better, whatever the reason, is a separate conversation.

I’m not playing both side.
what I’m saying is you simply will not get corrosion and breakdown internally from not changing your break fluid after only 3 years.
Will performance fade sure. But what I’m was trying to convey is, its not the end of the world if it’s not done. Is maintenance early often a good idea sure.
But that is not in the cards for everyone.
I was simply trying to make a point that this forum for whatever reason has people thinking that you have very short maintenance windows or the whole truck will fail. That’s simply not true.

Simply offering the other side of the coin.
Just look at all the opinions on oil changes. Only way to know is to have it tested. I personally will be doing a fluid swap probably at 100k. Then every 100 after.

 

[Snox801]

FYI time based fluid change is absolutely the worst way to do fluids.

 

[dalola]

I’m not playing both side.
what I’m saying is you simply will not get corrosion and breakdown internally from not changing your break fluid after only 3 years.
Will performance fade sure. But what I’m was trying to convey is, its not the end of the world if it’s not done. Is maintenance early often a good idea sure.
But that is not in the cards for everyone.
I was simply trying to make a point that this forum for whatever reason has people thinking that you have very short maintenance windows or the whole truck will fail. That’s simply not true.

Simply offering the other side of the coin.
Just look at all the opinions on oil changes. Only way to know is to have it tested. I personally will be doing a fluid swap probably at 100k. Then every 100 after.

lol...who said it's the end of the world? Who said your truck will crumble & fail? Presenting information for folks to make up their own mind is not doomsday predicting. Maybe switch to decaf?

 

[Snox801]

lol...who said it's the end of the world? Who said your truck will crumble & fail? Presenting information for folks to make up their own mind is not doomsday predicting. Maybe switch to decaf?

I suppose you are correct. After rereading the post. I get it.
I think when I read it the first time it came off as a “you have to change it or else” type deal. On a second read it does not.
Part of written language I guess.
Harder to convey very subtle points.
Yes fluid goes bad but will extended intervals cause all kinds of problems. Probably not just worse braking.

 

[TheSEARCH]

Funny thread. it goes from how much is to much in cost. To some its not ever needed which is really funny.

But hey to each there own.

 

[oysterville]

I never had to change the brake fluid in my horse. Ever.

 

[dalola]

Funny thread. it goes from how much is to much in cost. To some its not ever needed which is really funny.

But hey to each there own.

Right? lol... I figure, for $10, and an hours time, it's a worthwhile investment. But as you say, to each their own... If I were paying someone, I might feel differently.

 

[Walter56]

I'd diy. I have little confidence that a dealer would do it properly if at all. Or break something. Jobs like this are left to porters or the new guy

 

[inline_five]

Just fyi for anyone reading. Ford specs DOT 4 fluid for the Maverick. This is similar and compatible to DOT 3 but has a higher boiling point and is used in vehicles that tow.

DOT 3/4 are compatible but 4 absorbs 20% more water per year than 3.

If you aren't towing going with DOT 3 would be fine and could last a lot longer than 4.

They probably spec the three year flush based on DOT 4 guidelines. FWIW Toyota hybrids spec DOT 3.

 

[dalola]

Just fyi for anyone reading. Ford specs DOT 4 fluid for the Maverick. This is similar and compatible to DOT 3 but has a higher boiling point and is used in vehicles that tow.

DOT 3/4 are compatible but 4 absorbs 20% more water per year than 3.

If you aren't towing going with DOT 3 would be fine and could last a lot longer than 4.

They probably spec the three year flush based on DOT 4 guidelines. FWIW Toyota hybrids spec DOT 3.

Actually, the Maverick spec's DOT 4 LV (low viscosity), which is different from std DOT 4, and harder to find. The lower viscosity is said to improve ABS performance (think faster solenoid cycles..).

Also, various (should be) reputable sources state the exact opposite about DOT 3 & 4, as far as which absorbs water quicker, so I would not say for certain this is true. I would stick with the correct spec, DOT 4 LV, and change it every 2-3 years. My $.02.

 

[Probity]

Actually, the Maverick spec's DOT 4 LV (low viscosity), which is different from std DOT 4, and harder to find. The lower viscosity is said to improve ABS performance (think faster solenoid cycles..).

Also, various (should be) reputable sources state the exact opposite about DOT 3 & 4, as far as which absorbs water quicker, so I would not say for certain this is true. I would stick with the correct spec, DOT 4 LV, and change it every 2-3 years. My $.02.

Modern brake fluids much more complicated than I imagined. The Ford spec called for (DOT 4 LV, Motorcraft WSS-M6C65-A2) is very different than 'plain old' DOT 4.

For a deeper dive, a good article here - New Class 6 and Class 7 brake fluids are here | Vehicle Service Pros

The cautions in the article are worth reading:
Fluids, in general (especially brake fluids), have become complex enough that our industry may require more training in fluid dynamics and critical reading skills. Far too many technicians fail to read service information comprehensively. Some lack the critical reading skills to accurately interpret the more complicated service information for some new vehicles. We must have the ability (and patience) to read carefully, interpret carefully, and research any technology we don’t yet fully understand.

WARNING: When an OEM mentions multiple standards, make certain you meet ALL REQUIRED standards. Modern Technicians MUST have reasonable “Technical Reading Skills”. The Ford WSS-M6C65-A2 material standard is an important example. Far too many Technicians read the Ford brake fluid requirements in Alldata, Mitchell or Ford service information and misinterpret the statement. The Ford Material standard is the requirement, not DOT 4!

 

[inline_five]

Actually, the Maverick spec's DOT 4 LV (low viscosity), which is different from std DOT 4, and harder to find. The lower viscosity is said to improve ABS performance (think faster solenoid cycles..).

Also, various (should be) reputable sources state the exact opposite about DOT 3 & 4, as far as which absorbs water quicker, so I would not say for certain this is true. I would stick with the correct spec, DOT 4 LV, and change it every 2-3 years. My $.02.

This is getting interesting. So, I confess I was not a brake fluid connoisseur, however am reading up on it.

Here is a chart of typical viscosity of brake fluid. Class 6 = DOT 4 LV, that meets Ford's specs of 4 LV fluid.

So looks like you are correct. Appartently, after some research, the Ford DOT 4 LV is rebottled Pentosin, which is what I remember using on my VW years ago:

Doing some more Googling, Prestone DOT 4 has a viscosity of around 1048 mm2/sec, so higher than the LV fluid, and that is measured at -40°C.

Pentosin is available from Rock Auto for around $15/33.8 oz (plus shipping):

or you could buy the OEM Ford for almost the same price for the same amount:

I imagine you'd need 32 oz +/- to complete the entire flush, at least I always have on all the vehicles I've owned. So, for $15 vs the $11 of Prestone, the price difference is almost nonexistent as long as you combine your ordering with something else at Rock Auto.

I believe ATE SL.6 would also match requirements:

 

[zach57x]

Anyone have a DIY guide for flushing the hybrid brake fluid

 

[dalola]

Anyone have a DIY guide for flushing the hybrid brake fluid

Use a compressed air powered vacuum bleeder, and start by sucking out the MC until the fluid level is just ABOVE the line connections. Then refill with fresh fluid, and start at the bleeder furthest away from the MC (right rear). Draw fluid for about 60 seconds, make sure the fresh fluid in the MC stays above the line connections as you are bleeding the calipers, top up as needed. Move to the next rear caliper & repeat, then the right front, then finish on the left front. Top up fluid to the correct level.

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