A quick note on oil change of 2.5L Hybrid

[Waterick]

Sounds like they don't have quick access on the assembly line to oil so they can oil the seals on the filters when installing them. Or, more likely, they just omitted it to save time.

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[john grant]

I Would like to know what Ferrari Dealership than some of you are using for your oil changes ? My wife has a new Lexus RX 350 and after the first two oil changes it only cost $ 69.00 ( that with a tire rotation) .I get to have a loaner for a joy ride (New RX 350 or GX 450) Have owned 34 new Vehicle with 15 being new Ford and have never had a problem with a oil change at a Dealership.I have never paid over $ 69.00 for a change and the most that I have paid for a Ford Dealership was $59.00 (with tire rotation) ( and being all Maverick are front wheel drive, Tire should be rotated every 5000 to 6000 miles) So all you men who do oil change at home are doing tire rotation (not)Because not the first home oil change person is talking about doing tire rotation .I'll keep having the Dealership do the oil changes and tire rotation. But I do want to thank-you for trying to get me to do sometime that will just cost me more money in the long run ( tires cost $600.00 to $800.00 a set)

 

[ripperAZ]

My truck told me it was time to change the oil. I don't drive much. I've got ~3500 miles on it and it'll be a year old pretty soon. Anyway, it was actually earlier than I was expecting the truck to want new oil but OK by me as the break-in should be pretty much done. I ran through a couple of videos on the oil change. Nothing was too surprising.

-It did suck to have to take off that big fiber thing under the engine but I generally understand why it's there. It didn't exactly kill me. It added 15 minutes in removal and replacement.

-I replaced the drain plug with this Votex system I got from Amazon (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B092KPTZCD). I used the other kind in the past with the little open/close handle but it sticks out a long ways (risk of getting knocked off) and there was mention about some kind of extension, too much trouble for me.

-Then I got to the fun part. The filter that got installed at factory was put on with a dry seal and tightened to within a millimeter of its life. I started with my little rubber strap wrench. It laughed at me. I got out a fram puller I had and it managed to tear a hole in the side of the filter but not turn the threads. I took a trip to Walmart and got one of these little Hyper Tough Adjustable Filter Wrenches of the appropriate size. Game over, I took the filter off.

-For a replacement, I went with the FL400S. I was able to replace all six quarts of oil and it brought me right to the full mark peak, happy happy.

-The rest went fine. I filled it with six quarts of full synthetic, started it it for a bit, checked for leaks, and put everything back together. I did most of my cleanup before I got hungry and quit, plus it was time for my dogs to walk.

I plan on keeping my 23 lariat hybrid for at least a decade so I bought both a 10 year service agreement with premium care and a 10 year maintenance agreement with the lights and all the other features including the first day auto coverage in a premium car. It was $2250 from Granger. The maintenance agreement was $1650 for 10 years with two oil changes full synthetic a year at 5000 miles each and it covers all the other parts the brakes exhaust pieces everything except disposable things like tires are covered, including all the filters at less than 80 bucks a visit I can expect it after the fifth or six year I’ll be saving hundreds per year on this maintenance deal. All those prices are gonna go through the roof in the next decade. people might laugh and say you spent too much for protection, but all of this is transferable so if I wanna sell it to a private party, he’s got full coverage on everything up to 100,000 miles in 10 years. I don’t see how anyone can claim. It’s a bad deal with prices soaring as they are

 

[Poultrygeist]

I Would like to know what Ferrari Dealership than some of you are using for your oil changes ? My wife has a new Lexus RX 350 and after the first two oil changes it only cost $ 69.00 ( that with a tire rotation) .I get to have a loaner for a joy ride (New RX 350 or GX 450) Have owned 34 new Vehicle with 15 being new Ford and have never had a problem with a oil change at a Dealership.I have never paid over $ 69.00 for a change and the most that I have paid for a Ford Dealership was $59.00 (with tire rotation) ( and being all Maverick are front wheel drive, Tire should be rotated every 5000 to 6000 miles) So all you men who do oil change at home are doing tire rotation (not)Because not the first home oil change person is talking about doing tire rotation .I'll keep having the Dealership do the oil changes and tire rotation. But I do want to thank-you for trying to get me to do sometime that will just cost me more money in the long run ( tires cost $600.00 to $800.00 a set)

Constant tire rotations mean you will have to replace all four tires at the same time. If you don't rotate tires on a FWD vehicle you only have to replace the two front tires at the same time. The back tires last a lot longer. You're better off buying a lifetime wheel alignment for the Maverick especially if you live in a state with bad roads and pot holes.

 

[john grant]

You do know tires go bad in time . Being cheap does not make it safe for the road ,I think it is best to have the best tire on the steering wheels of the vehicle. I wish you the best of luck with being cheap , but not for me life is to short just save a couple hundred dollars

 

[Poultrygeist]

You do know tires go bad in time . Being cheap does not make it safe for the road ,I think it is best to have the best tire on the steering wheels of the vehicle. I wish you the best of luck with being cheap , but not for me life is to short just save a couple hundred dollars

"In FWD cars, placing new tires on the rear provides better stability during acceleration and cornering. While this setup may feel counterintuitive, it reduces the likelihood of oversteering during braking on slippery surfaces, which prioritizes your passengers' safety."

 

[Mother Trucker]

I just did my own first oil change Saturday (12 mos. w/5,600 miles - monitor said 1% life left) and found the factory filter, like others have reported, was on way too tight. I wrapped a nitrile glove around the inside of my filter wrench and found it gave enough grip to help me get it loose. The oil looked pretty good still, dark but still golden hued. Otherwise no issues and put on a fumoto valve for future changes. I did also reset the oil life monitor. The last oil change I paid for was 20 years ago and I didn’t enjoy finding all the new oil in a puddle under the car in my garage the next morning. The shop took care of it but that shouldn’t happen when you’re paying a “pro.”
So today, two days later, the mav went to the dealer for its annual PA state inspection. I was a bit annoyed when the rep called saying the tech recommends an oil change. Just reinforces my lack of faith in the “pros”. They had the vehicle so I wonder what they were basing the recommendation on. Like did they check the oil life monitor or pull the dipstick to examine the oil? Lol

 

[d7602002]

I just did my own first oil change Saturday (12 mos. w/5,600 miles - monitor said 1% life left) and found the factory filter, like others have reported, was on way too tight. I wrapped a nitrile glove around the inside of my filter wrench and found it gave enough grip to help me get it loose. The oil looked pretty good still, dark but still golden hued. Otherwise no issues and put on a fumoto valve for future changes. I did also reset the oil life monitor. The last oil change I paid for was 20 years ago and I didn’t enjoy finding all the new oil in a puddle under the car in my garage the next morning. The shop took care of it but that shouldn’t happen when you’re paying a “pro.”
So today, two days later, the mav went to the dealer for its annual PA state inspection. I was a bit annoyed when the rep called saying the tech recommends an oil change. Just reinforces my lack of faith in the “pros”. They had the vehicle so I wonder what they were basing the recommendation on. Like did they check the oil life monitor or pull the dipstick to examine the oil? Lol

My guess is they did neither. They probably looked at purchase date and your mileage and because you did it you wouldn't put a little sticker up in the window so they probably just assumed it wasn't done. That would be my guess.

 

[HeyBales]

I just did my own first oil change Saturday (12 mos. w/5,600 miles - monitor said 1% life left) and found the factory filter, like others have reported, was on way too tight. I wrapped a nitrile glove around the inside of my filter wrench and found it gave enough grip to help me get it loose. The oil looked pretty good still, dark but still golden hued. Otherwise no issues and put on a fumoto valve for future changes. I did also reset the oil life monitor. The last oil change I paid for was 20 years ago and I didn’t enjoy finding all the new oil in a puddle under the car in my garage the next morning. The shop took care of it but that shouldn’t happen when you’re paying a “pro.”
So today, two days later, the mav went to the dealer for its annual PA state inspection. I was a bit annoyed when the rep called saying the tech recommends an oil change. Just reinforces my lack of faith in the “pros”. They had the vehicle so I wonder what they were basing the recommendation on. Like did they check the oil life monitor or pull the dipstick to examine the oil? Lol

Good grief.

After telling them no, just did it, what are you blathering about - I'd expect that 2nd call, oh it appears you have a leak in your Evap system, we hoped it was nothing so did a quick drive and now the codes are showing. We can't pass you until that is taken care of - we can do it!

When those inspection systems/processes aren't setup right, just fodder for cheating on either side.

 

[srfdude44]

agreed. this is definitely a concern. a good shop (dealer or independent) would be nice to have. I haven't found a great one yet.

Not only that, I can guarantee the dealer is not using full synthetic oil. I'm 80, changing oil is a little bit of a pain now, but I can still do it. Also, if you go onto oil boards, you will find that folks who tear the used oil filters apart show the Motorcraft filters, fl-400, 910S, etc have large gobs of glue that come loose from the filter and go who knows where. I use Carquest filters, there are others.

 

[Mother Trucker]

Good grief.

After telling them no, just did it, what are you blathering about - I'd expect that 2nd call, oh it appears you have a leak in your Evap system, we hoped it was nothing so did a quick drive and now the codes are showing. We can't pass you until that is taken care of - we can do it!

When those inspection systems/processes aren't setup right, just fodder for cheating on either side.

They didn’t follow up with any new recommendations - just the recommended oil change. Inspection passed w/no issue.
I hope you’ve not had an experience like you’re suggesting. That would get my goat.

 

[Jims Maverick]

My truck told me it was time to change the oil. I don't drive much. I've got ~3500 miles on it and it'll be a year old pretty soon. Anyway, it was actually earlier than I was expecting the truck to want new oil but OK by me as the break-in should be pretty much done. I ran through a couple of videos on the oil change. Nothing was too surprising.

-It did suck to have to take off that big fiber thing under the engine but I generally understand why it's there. It didn't exactly kill me. It added 15 minutes in removal and replacement.

-I replaced the drain plug with this Votex system I got from Amazon (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B092KPTZCD). I used the other kind in the past with the little open/close handle but it sticks out a long ways (risk of getting knocked off) and there was mention about some kind of extension, too much trouble for me.

-Then I got to the fun part. The filter that got installed at factory was put on with a dry seal and tightened to within a millimeter of its life. I started with my little rubber strap wrench. It laughed at me. I got out a fram puller I had and it managed to tear a hole in the side of the filter but not turn the threads. I took a trip to Walmart and got one of these little Hyper Tough Adjustable Filter Wrenches of the appropriate size. Game over, I took the filter off.

-For a replacement, I went with the FL400S. I was able to replace all six quarts of oil and it brought me right to the full mark peak, happy happy.

-The rest went fine. I filled it with six quarts of full synthetic, started it it for a bit, checked for leaks, and put everything back together. I did most of my cleanup before I got hungry and quit, plus it was time for my dogs to walk.

My 23 Mav came with a book of coupons....one fora free oil change.......I let the dealer deal with that.

 

[Scooter66]

Don't worry about deforming the old filter; you are putting on a new one anyway. Works amazingly on tight filters.

 

[HeyBales]

They didn’t follow up with any new recommendations - just the recommended oil change. Inspection passed w/no issue.
I hope you’ve not had an experience like you’re suggesting. That would get my goat.

I have friends in Missouri whose inspection system is totally gamed for the shops doing the inspections to make extra money - either thru payoffs (not my friends), or saying unneeded work required, which they can do.

Or as friends have done, go to a better inspection shop that finds nothing wrong for the certificate, but will recommend other things to be done anyway. It's not really a very full inspection.
State allows a set price for the inspection, so incentive is to find more money for dishonest shops.

 

[Dale Seitzer]

My truck told me it was time to change the oil. I don't drive much. I've got ~3500 miles on it and it'll be a year old pretty soon. Anyway, it was actually earlier than I was expecting the truck to want new oil but OK by me as the break-in should be pretty much done. I ran through a couple of videos on the oil change. Nothing was too surprising.

-It did suck to have to take off that big fiber thing under the engine but I generally understand why it's there. It didn't exactly kill me. It added 15 minutes in removal and replacement.

-I replaced the drain plug with this Votex system I got from Amazon (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B092KPTZCD). I used the other kind in the past with the little open/close handle but it sticks out a long ways (risk of getting knocked off) and there was mention about some kind of extension, too much trouble for me.

-Then I got to the fun part. The filter that got installed at factory was put on with a dry seal and tightened to within a millimeter of its life. I started with my little rubber strap wrench. It laughed at me. I got out a fram puller I had and it managed to tear a hole in the side of the filter but not turn the threads. I took a trip to Walmart and got one of these little Hyper Tough Adjustable Filter Wrenches of the appropriate size. Game over, I took the filter off.

-For a replacement, I went with the FL400S. I was able to replace all six quarts of oil and it brought me right to the full mark peak, happy happy.

-The rest went fine. I filled it with six quarts of full synthetic, started it it for a bit, checked for leaks, and put everything back together. I did most of my cleanup before I got hungry and quit, plus it was time for my dogs to walk.

I saw 500 miles for the first oil change.

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