2024 intake valves

[SiskRifles]

I have a new 2024 with the 2.0 engine. I read a lot about the direct injection causing dirty intake valves. Is this common ? If so, what can be done to minimize it ?
Also, something about needing a drain in the air line after the turbo I believe ?
This truck will always be bone stock, no mods. Majority miles will be interstate, probably less than 10% city driving.
Are these things anything to be concerned about ?
Thanks
Charlie

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[Snox801]

No not at all. I’ve heard this all before. My wife has. 2.0 ecoboost. At 120k I pulled the intake off and had almost zero carbon. No more than anything else. Didn’t even take the time to clean it out it back and ran it.
But now ford has approved the bg cleaner or the likes. Amsoil power foam.
If you worry get it good and hot then treat with those every 50k Her currently has 282k miles ish on it still now issues. I will say that I’ve seemed to have very good luck with amsoil in mine seems to be very high regarded oil in all ecoboost communities.

 

[Tim d]

I have a new 2024 with the 2.0 engine. I read a lot about the direct injection causing dirty intake valves. Is this common ? If so, what can be done to minimize it ?
Also, something about needing a drain in the air line after the turbo I believe ?
This truck will always be bone stock, no mods. Majority miles will be interstate, probably less than 10% city driving.
Are these things anything to be concerned about ?
Thanks
Charlie

Great question, and unfortunately you will get alot of different answers. The filter you are talking about i believe is a catch can, again,lots of different answers. Personally iam not concerned about these things with our 3 year old maverick,but do what ever makes you happy!

 

[Snox801]

Great question, and unfortunately you will get alot of different answers. The filter you are talking about i believe is a catch can, again,lots of different answers. Personally iam not concerned about these things with our 3 year old maverick,but do what ever makes you happy!

These answers are what goes back and forth a lot. Unfortunately most people see someone made a catch can. And in theory they work. But not many people have a good data point to say one way or another.
I think that they will be fine. And as this has been a complaint of every ecoboost I have had. Same with the 3.5 in. The trucks. Yet I’ve had 3 go over 350k without issues.
Mileage may indeed vary but it’s not all doom and gloom. If it makes you feel better used a spray cleaner every 50k. That’s been VW fix for years and seems to work fine for them.

 

[Cherokee]

I've had several super high mileage engines,
528,000 trouble free miles but the thing got wimpy, ya think !
394,000 blew a rear main seal due to worn out crank bearings
on an AMC engine designed in 1957 and converted
to EFI for my 1996 Jeep Cherokee.
Three Fords taken past 350,000

ALL WITHOUT Amsoil or any of the supposedly better products, seafoam, what ever.
The Cherokee was on roach oil at 5,000 mile intervals.
The 528k Tacoma was fed Mobil 1 full syn at 10,000 mile change intervals.
A buddy took his Tacoma to 500,000 on 10k intervals on the cheapest
roach oil Jiffy lube pumped out of the overhead 55 gallon barrels.
His ran stronger than mine did on Mobil 1 full syn.

All My Fords were fed Motorcraft blend when new and full syn from
the second oil change on and all sold still running like new.

Service your Maverick at the Ford Dealer every 5,000 miles,
Run Motorcraft parts and fluids and please use full synthetic then you's can fagetaboutit.

 

[Tbone289]

I've had several super high mileage engines,
528,000 trouble free miles but the thing got wimpy, ya think !
394,000 blew a rear main seal due to worn out crank bearings on an AMC engine designed in 1957 and converted to EFI for my 1996 Jeep Cherokee.
Three Fords taken past 350,000

ALL WITHOUT Amsoil or any of the supposedly better products, seafoam, what ever.

Were any of these direct-injected? If not, how do these relate to the topic: DI and intake valve carbon deposits?

 

[MAVCORuss]

Not an engine Guru here but I’ll chime in anyway.

Having lived with 4 BMWs in recent times (20 years) all with direct-injection engines I found (and still find) that they seem to work best when run with recommended premium gas. BMW has for years recommended Shell premium for their gas engines. Yes it costs much more than regular but it contains detergent additives that are aimed at keeping your engine (and presumably intake valves) clean.

I fill up my ’24 Maverick EcoBoost with Shell V-Power NiTRO+ premium every time. I do believe there is improved performance and mileage with this fuel. I’m sure there are others that will say that premium gas isn’t necessary and the extra cost isn’t worth it, but in the long run I believe it will make a difference in reducing carbon buildup.

Tip: I get 10 cents a gallon savings as a Shell Fuel Rewards member with each fueling.

I believe the way you drive (I.e. short trips vs. interstate travel) can also make a difference in intake valve carbon buildup.

 

[Timothyd]

Great question, and unfortunately you will get alot of different answers. The filter you are talking about i believe is a catch can, again,lots of different answers. Personally iam not concerned about these things with our 3 year old maverick,but do what ever makes you happy!

I'm perfectly happy with the port injection on my hybrid. The only direct injection I have is on my bike and I was thinking of taking a peak at the valves.

 

[Timothyd]

Not an engine Guru here but I’ll chime in anyway.

Having lived with 4 BMWs in recent times (20 years) all with direct-injection engines I found (and still find) that they seem to work best when run with recommended premium gas. BMW has for years recommended Shell premium for their gas engines. Yes it costs much more than regular but it contains detergent additives that are aimed at keeping your engine (and presumably intake valves) clean.

I fill up my ’24 Maverick EcoBoost with Shell V-Power NiTRO+ premium every time. I do believe there is improved performance and mileage with this fuel. I’m sure there are others that will say that premium gas isn’t necessary and the extra cost isn’t worth it, but in the long run I believe it will make a difference in reducing carbon buildup.

Tip: I get 10 cents a gallon savings as a Shell Fuel Rewards member with each fueling.

I believe the way you drive (I.e. short trips vs. interstate travel) can also make a difference in intake valve carbon buildup.

That's one reason I always fill up with the "top tier " gas at Costco. It's usually at least twenty cents a gallon cheaper too.

 

[Cherokee]

Were any of these direct-injected? If not, how do these relate to the topic: DI and intake valve carbon deposits?

You are correct none were DI
I was not aware DI required anything special.
Next question how could Direct Injection be affected by Engine oil. Seems so unrelated to me.
What little I've read about DI and Port Injection shows me nothing that Indicates one engine oil is better than another.
I assumed it was all marketing tactics to get us to buy oils other than OEM

In all my miles in all my engines I've never had valves or pistons build up carbon to the point of needing attention as long as I kept a good PM schedule.

I should have asked why are the OEM Oils not good enough for DI ?

Please excuse my ignorance with DI I am just not good at asking the right questions sometimes.

 

[Tbone289]

Next question how could Direct Injection be affected by Engine oil. Seems so unrelated to me.

All engines with PCV systems send oil and combustion vapors from the crankcase into the intake manifold upstream of the intake valves. DI engines can't clean the intake valves with fuel additives because--for the purpose of efficiency--the fuel is injected directly into the combustion chamber, downstream of the valves. Eventually those crankcase vapors will form deposits on the intake valves. How much and how quickly is dependent on many factors.

In all my miles in all my engines I've never had valves or pistons build up carbon to the point of needing attention as long as I kept a good PM schedule.

That may be, but in all your miles and all your engines, you didn't have DI. All your miles and all your engines were actively cleaning the intake valves with fuel additives.

I should have asked why are the OEM Oils not good enough for DI ?

OEM oils are fine with DI. I'm unaware of anyone stating the contrary in this thread. However, some oils have higher flashpoints than others and thus are less prone to soot, and some may reduce blowby. Both of these characteristics should help reduce intake valve deposits.

 

[Brianx]

Quality oil and top Tier gasoline. Cleaner engine overall.

 

[Master Blaster]

1) Its a Mazda/Ford L5 engine in use since about 1990 with a different head and a turbo with DI on the EB and the Atkinson cycle valvetrain with port injection on the hybrid, and is damn near bulletproof.
2) Carbon buildup on DI engines from certain manufacturers is related to using incorrect fuel and oil. Ford does not have the problem unless you do not feed it correctly. Use the specified spec fuel and oil and you should get 1/2M miles out of this engine. BMW and Mini DI engines are messed up and are getting pretty famous for carbon. Use the wrong oil not meeting the required 961 or 962 specs, or non-TopTier fuel and you'll probably have the problem.
3) You don't need a catch can, as there is one built into the engine.
4) There is no missing turbo drain. Who stated that garbage?
5) The 25 EcoBoost has redesigned the intake manifold to allow for the addition of port injection, presumably to handle poor available fuel quality in several states. If you stick with TopTier certified fuels then the extra detergents should prevent any issues.
6) The engines are built to run on 87 octane. You do not need to waste your money on hi-test fuel ever. Some gas companies like Shell put extra detergents in their high-octane fuel instead of putting them in all grades, so take a careful look at what is in their fuel. As long as its TopTier certified fuel you don't need to worry.

 

[Brianx]

Good info except I think you get more HP and torque from hi test

 

[NoVaJimmy]

Not an engine Guru here but I’ll chime in anyway.

Having lived with 4 BMWs in recent times (20 years) all with direct-injection engines I found (and still find) that they seem to work best when run with recommended premium gas. BMW has for years recommended Shell premium for their gas engines. Yes it costs much more than regular but it contains detergent additives that are aimed at keeping your engine (and presumably intake valves) clean.

I fill up my ’24 Maverick EcoBoost with Shell V-Power NiTRO+ premium every time. I do believe there is improved performance and mileage with this fuel. I’m sure there are others that will say that premium gas isn’t necessary and the extra cost isn’t worth it, but in the long run I believe it will make a difference in reducing carbon buildup.

Tip: I get 10 cents a gallon savings as a Shell Fuel Rewards member with each fueling.

I believe the way you drive (I.e. short trips vs. interstate travel) can also make a difference in intake valve carbon buildup.

You don't get gas being sprayed over intake valves with DI.....

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