Wheel spacers for rear

[Cherokee]

My Pirelli Scorpions are flush,
stock size,
225/60R18’s
No spacers.

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[pete c]

Why do you hate your wheel bearings?

Will a slight offset harm them?

Not a lot, but then why bother as it would be hard to even notice.

A larger offset that is noticeable moves the center of load off to the side.

Wheel bearings aren't very happy when they have to carry a load of center. It's like trying to carry a 5 gallon bucket of water. It is easier to carry 2 5 gallon buckets because your not being pull in one direction.

Anyhoo, it's your truck and your money! Just do me a favor and don't offset them to the point they are sticking out and flinging shit all over the place. Besides, it is illegal in most parts.

If you are gonna do that, add flares and a set ofYosemite Sam "BACK OFF!!!!!!" mudflaps.

 

[Mox4615]

See thats the confusing info i was getting from AI. AI says 35mm wont fit without getting longer studs.

35mm easily fits, 25mm has some stud poke but not enough to not let the wheel seat. I’m running the stock wheel and tire setup. Fx4 wheels have the pockets on the back of the wheel. From what I can tell 25 is the smallest you can go without modifying the studs

 

[Mudduck]

Your wheel bearings are not going to grenade. silly. There will most likely be accelerated wear, but its not going to be immediate. Until i swapped over to 1 ton axles, I ran a 16x10 wheel on my jeep with a -44mm offset for 81k miles, and no issues. YMMV. Also had a mini truck back in the day with 4 pumps/dumps on 13x7 wires that had a -20 offset on stock unit bearings 90k miles no issues...... it bounced and jumped all over those bearings.

use quality spacers
recheck torque/keep an eye on everything
have fun.

The details matter when fixing up your ride. you'll see and appreciate the difference it makes. we are all anal about something.

 

[Mox4615]

Your wheel bearings are not going to grenade. silly. There will most likely be accelerated wear, but its not going to be immediate. Until i swapped over to 1 ton axles, I ran a 16x10 wheel on my jeep with a -44mm offset for 81k miles, and no issues. YMMV. Also had a mini truck back in the day with 4 pumps/dumps on 13x7 wires that had a -20 offset on stock unit bearings 90k miles no issues...... it bounced and jumped all over those bearings.

use quality spacers
recheck torque/keep an eye on everything
have fun.

The details matter when fixing up your ride. you'll see and appreciate the difference it makes. we are all anal about something.

You know it wouldn’t have been a wheel spacer thread without the “why do you hate your wheel bearings” guy lol I concur with everything you said tho, this “truck” might as well be a car since it’s a unibody. It might weigh 3-3500 pounds. A 1 inch wheel spacers might prematurely wear it out at 80k instead of 90k. Like you said though get quality hub centric spacers and youll be fine. I’ve been running mine for over a year with no issues. Been told it looks great many times.

The other common complaint is that it eats up the fender paint which I’ve seen no evidence of that.

 

[ATXTACOS]

I did 1.5 Hub centric rears 2 years ago without issue. Bolted right on. Tire shops don't like it, just do my own rotations.

 

[Mox4615]

Here’s mine with 35mm on rear and the 25s on the front.

 

[MaverickInThe410]

Here’s mine with 35mm on rear and the 25s on the front.

Looks good but I’m using stock XLT wheels and tires. Will those spacers fit without modifying wheel studs.

 

[Mox4615]

You’ll have to take the wheel off and see if it has the “pockets” on the back side where it seats. I’m not familiar with how the XLT wheels are made, if it does then you’ll be good to go, if not you’ll have to trim the studs accordingly.

 

[Johnkn]

Looks good but I’m using stock XLT wheels and tires. Will those spacers fit without modifying wheel studs.

All stock (non XL Steelies?) Maverick wheels have pockets on the back side.

You don't quite understand the bolt-on spacers you're inquiring about.. There is no need to modify your stock studs (provided they don't hold your wheels off the hub, and based on other's comments, they should not)

1. You remove the stock wheel
2. Bolt on the spacer (correctly torque and use blue Lok-tite)
3. Then bolt the wheel onto the spacer's studs..

Shown below:

First is a short "slip-on" spacer that simply spaces the wheel. Due to the Maverick's relatively short studs, they are limited to 1/4" to 3/8" of additional poke on our trucks as you need a full 7-8 turns of the lug nuts to retain the wheels and the spacer eats up several turns..

Second is the "bolt-on" spacer you are inquiring about that can provide 1"+ of additional wheel offset. Pictured is probably a 2'+ spacer, and is much wider than your needs.

I've used Bora bolt-on spacers on my F150 Raptor, Raptor R, and TRX. I use a small slip-on spacer on my Bronco Raptor to fine tune the negative offset.


Good luck

.

 

[MaverickInThe410]

All stock (non XL Steelies?) Maverick wheels have pockets on the back side.

You don't quite understand the bolt-on spacers you're inquiring about.. There is no need to modify your stock studs (provided they don't hold your wheels off the hub, and based on other's comments, they should not)

1. You remove the stock wheel
2. Bolt on the spacer (correctly torque and use blue Lok-tite)
3. Then bolt the wheel onto the spacer's studs..

Shown below:

First is a short "slip-on" spacer that simply spaces the wheel. Due to the Maverick's relatively short studs, they are limited to 1/4" to 3/8" of additional poke on our trucks as you need a full 7-8 turns of the lug nuts to retain the wheels and the spacer eats up several turns..

Second is the "bolt-on" spacer you are inquiring about that can provide 1"+ of additional wheel offset. Pictured is probably a 2'+ spacer, and is much wider than your needs.

I've used Bora bolt-on spacers on my F150 Raptor, Raptor R, and TRX. I use a small slip-on spacer on my Bronco Raptor to fine tune the negative offset.


Good luck

.

I do totally understand but i was getting different info from here and AI so i was asking this specific question for my specific setup. Everyone else was using aftermarket wheels and tires.

 

[Lone Ridr]

1" or 25mm spacers come with their own grade 10 lugs in secondary mounting holes, and the existing lugs do not need to be cut to fit. Just bolt them on. I had to add them on the rear with my 2" flares or it looked weird, but didn't need them on the front. Be aware that in some jurisdictions it is illegal to have the tires out past the fenders, so you will need flares. Besides, tires out that far look stupid.

Half the POV trucks in Boonville, Indiana look stupid. They really do.

 

[Lone Ridr]

Engineer rule: Thread engagement must be equal to or greater than stud diameter. I've sent spacers back due to lack of thread engagement. Follow manufacturer's torque specifications to the letter. Do these things and you won't have a wheel come off while driving. There are plenty of articles on the net saying they are a hazard and unsafe. I drove too many miles on properly installed spacers (yeah, by me) without incident to take the naysayers seriously. Good luck.

 

[Cherokee]

Besides throwing no more mud on the door panels what do you feel when driving ?
Is turn in response different ?
Push ?
Change in body roll ?
An inch more leverage on bearings should not accelerate wear much at all

 

[Hot Runr Guy]

Engineer rule: Thread engagement must be equal to or greater than stud diameter.

While I don't disagree with this, when I checked one of my Mavericks, it only had 7 to 7-1/2 turns of engagement, so with a 1.5mm pitch, only about 75% of stud diameter (14mm).

HRG

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