Wheel set for snow tires

[AzureBlueBill]

Not true. They corrode only trivially, and are very easy to clean up again with a wire brush and a paint can. Aluminum on the other hand, is virtually always a writeoff. The cause is that the clorine in the salt liquid on the road eats aluminum way faster than iron. Try somehow cleaning up aluminum rims and you'll be throwing them away.

Uhh, all modern aluminum wheels are 100% powdercoated and the polished/bare metal areas are powdercoated clear. This finish is extremely durable. But anyone who does not wash the salt off the entire vehicle weekly is just asking for corrosion eveywhere, not just on the wheels.

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[LSchicago]

Yup, the liquid tends to collect in the bead area, causing corrosion. That's why tire installers put a swab of liquid rubber goop on the bead to fill in any small leaks.

I've not had issues with Aluminum wheels in winter. I see no need to use steel. Only set I've seen issues on were chromed 98 MK VIII wheels. Not my vehicle, but when the chrome peeled on the bead sides they leaked.

 

[Timothyd]

You can also keep your eyes open on marketplace for used rims/tires in your area.
You'd be surprised as to how many great deals come and go.

Yes! Keep your eyes open. I got a set of 4 like new steelies for $200

 

[Optimus]

Having only lived somewhere that can use nasty salt brine and traditional salt up to 6 months a year—ALL wheels will corrode regardless if steel or alloy. Both are usually correctable by a decent tire shop via wire wheel and/or sanding, then coating the rim’s bead in a sealer. Avoiding hammer-on wheel weights can help a lot, if your wheel can take stick-on weights. The traditional clip-on weights require a lip that goes a “ways” in to the bead, along with a tiny air gap on the edges. This by default makes a pathway for air to get out, but also to let salt and slop get deeper IN.

Just as bad, if not worse, are certain styles of TPMS sensors and valve stems that are metal bolt-on. They use a flimsy little o-ring that makes contact only on the inside of the hole, and the o-ring often barely lasts a couple years before it has to be removed, corrosion cleaned, and new o-ring installed. Luckily, the Mav does NOT use this style. It uses a more traditional looking rubber valve stem in which the TPMS sensor screws on. The valve stem makes contact outside, inside, and all the way through the hole in the wheel.

 

[Darnon]

Just as bad, if not worse, are certain styles of TPMS sensors and valve stems that are metal bolt-on. They use a flimsy little o-ring that makes contact only on the outside of the hole, and the o-ring often barely lasts a couple years before it has to be removed, corrosion cleaned, and new o-ring installed. Luckily, the Mav does NOT use this style. It uses a more traditional looking rubber valve stem in which the TPMS sensor screws on. The valve stem makes contact outside, inside, and all the way through the hole in the wheel.

The metal stems are more for trucks running LT tires; rubber valve stems are usually only rated up to 60 PSI (even though I've used them just fine on higher pressure applications). But the assertion of them only using an O-ring isn't usually the case unless you're buying the cheapest of the cheap. Typically the rubber seal is a flanged shape designed to seal on the inner surface of the rim, the inner diameter of the valve stem opening, and then bulge slightly on the outside when compressed to seal against the outside surface.

Some of the commercial truck wheel valve stems just use an O-ring, but OTR use means they're probably getting changed pretty regularly.

 

[Optimus]

The metal stems are more for trucks running LT tires; rubber valve stems are usually only rated up to 60 PSI (even though I've used them just fine on higher pressure applications). But the assertion of them only using an O-ring isn't usually the case unless you're buying the cheapest of the cheap. Typically the rubber seal is a flanged shape designed to seal on the inner surface of the rim, the inner diameter of the valve stem opening, and then bulge slightly on the outside when compressed to seal against the outside surface.

Some of the commercial truck wheel valve stems just use an O-ring, but OTR use means they're probably getting changed pretty regularly.

Yes that is the style I am talking about, though I see I had a typo in my original post, now corrected, when I said the seal is on the outside. The seal goes on the inside of the wheel. But I still stand by what I said, and that this type of seal is terrible compared to a full rubber valve stem. The o-ring style, despite a small useless flange, does not seal on the outside of the wheel, unlike a regular full rubber valve stem. And the metal stems are not tied specifically to LT truck tire use. We’ve had this style (OEM, mind you) on our previous Toyota’s from the factory, and pretty sure the Prius and others weren’t spec’d for light truck tires.

Regardless, the topic is a bit moot as I said the Mav luckily doesn’t have this metal bolt-on style.

 

[Bobby Chapman]

Speaking of selling stock wheels when upgrading, kept original wheels in case of an accident where they total your vehicle. If you can not switch out upgrades for the stock ones before junk yard gets them , you may be out 2 to 3 grand from your upgraded wheels.
Just a thought, I kept my steelies.

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