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Upgrading 400W inverter possible?

unclerunkle

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From what I read, the 12v flex-bed accessory pigtails in the back will pull up to 20 amps from the battery. So, 12v * 20a = 240w max.

A Delta 2 can only pull 15a through the solar charger input directly or 8a through the DC plug. You may want to experiment with adding a 12 to 24v boost converter to see how close you can get to the full 240w but, admittedly, this is still pretty low of an input and you'll have hard time not tripping the fuse. Easiest solution is to leave the Delta 2 pulling 15a from this circuit at 12v and call it a day (180w DC).

Otherwise, to get more wattage, you are going to have to connect a new wire direct to the battery AND add a boost converter inline to get to the voltage of your choosing. In the case of the Delta 2 which accepts 11-60v at max 15a and max 500w, I would probably shoot for a 12 to 48v boost converter to hit the full 500w DC charging limit. (battery -> 45a fuse -> converter > delta 2) Just don't forget the amperage is quite different before and after the boost converter so make sure you size the proper gauge wire.

EDIT: I should also probably mention that my thought process mainly applies to the Ecoboost with the 400w inverter package to get the upgraded 190a alternator but the hybrid may have a different, higher voltage (48v?) line already available to tap into.
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MakinDoForNow

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That sounds about right. My bricks draw 2.5A - 3A each at 120V, which is 300W - 350W. Input voltage being 48V would put it right around 7.5A max. That would put me at 30A for a hardline to the 12V system. It may be better to just put a bigger inverter in, since I would need to have a boost converter to get full capability out of the system.
Found this at Costco.com ONLY $3K comes with 2 solar panels see the specs ....
Technical Specifications:

Capacity: 2419.2Wh

Wattage: 2200W Rated Power - 4400W Surge Power

Battery type: Lithium iron phosphate (LiFePO4)

Cycle Life: ≥3000 Cycles



Inputs:

  • AC 3-pin Port: 120V ~60Hz, 12A.
  • 2X DC Charging Ports:
  • Solar charge: Supports 17.5~54V=10.5A 400 max each (21A, 800W max in total)
  • Car Charge: Supports 11.6~17.5V=8A max each (16A max in total)
  • Charge Controller: Built-in Maximum Power Point Tracking (MPPT)


Outputs:

  • 3X AC Outlets: 120V~60Hz, 18.3A, 2200W Rated, 4400W Surge Peak
  • 2X PD100W USB-C: 5V=3A, 9V=3A. 12V=3A. 15V=3A, 20V=5A, 100W max.
  • 2X USB-A: Quick Charge 3.0, 5V=3A. 9V=2A, 12V=1.5A, 18W max.
Optimal Operating Temperature:

  • Charging: 32°F ~104°F (0°C~40°C)
  • Discharging: 14°F ~104°F (-10°C~40°C)
 

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Sorry for reviving this thread again, but I am thinking about figuring out EXACTLY what to do to run a higher wattage appliance in the bed? I'd like to use the factory outlet, however I understand I may need to modift the system in someway, i.e. bigger inverter, increased wire size, increased fuse size, while maintaining a threshold of no higher than 50% of the alternator output. I tried to run a welder in the bed of my mav and video'd it for all the internet to see. Now i'm on a mission to make it be successful :p

Link in case you care to watch
 

redskins5

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I ordered the hybrid with a 400W inverter, and I just saw an article that listed what could be run with it. To be honest, it seems like very few things that will be useful to me. Especially when it comes to charging tools. Is there any way to upgrade the inverter? Can that be done? I’m not sure the limitations of car electronics.
It's called a ford f-150 Hybrid with 7200watt generator on board
 

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unclerunkle

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It's called a ford f-150 Hybrid with 7200watt generator on board
There's a lot of truth to this statement IMO. A 190a alternator on the ecoboost w/inverter package is not that large to start with. 50% usage for an inverter is going to be too much I bet. I'd stick to 33% or less but admittedly this is more an approximation than a rule.

Sorry for reviving this thread again, but I am thinking about figuring out EXACTLY what to do to run a higher wattage appliance in the bed? I'd like to use the factory outlet, however I understand I may need to modift the system in someway, i.e. bigger inverter, increased wire size, increased fuse size, while maintaining a threshold of no higher than 50% of the alternator output. I tried to run a welder in the bed of my mav and video'd it for all the internet to see. Now i'm on a mission to make it be successful :p
For more wattage, all roads lead directly to tapping off the battery connection. Then it simply becomes a matter of what you want to power? 120v AC? Then you need an inverter and unless you want to run thick, expensive power cables to the rear of the vehicle, this inverter is going to need to be in the engine compartment if it will fit (or close to it - maybe under the dash somewhere).

I prefer the portable power station route personally as I can just bring that along and charge it slowly while driving (DC-DC, not DC -> inverter AC -> DC from the bed outlets) and then use that to power any appliances or tools I have. Even the smallest Ecoflow Delta Mini will output 1400w which is plenty for anything I'll need, not to mention it's portable. Wiring is simpler too as you can run much thinner cables to the back of the vehicle as you're boosting the voltage with a boost converter at the battery. The boost converter will easily fit in the engine compartment. The one I bought is this one straight from China (12V to 48V 15A - 720w) for $80.75 back on 11.11 (like Black Friday). 720w is plenty for the DC solar input on a lot of these units and I don't want to pull more than 60a from the system at a time anyway.

All that said, I still don't have my truck so it's just in my head right now, but I see no reason why the above wouldn't work. Probably worth noting too that you're only going to want this on when the engine is running so at the very least adding a switch + relay will be important so it turns off when the engine does. Otherwise your battery is going to go flat very quickly.
 

MakinDoForNow

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Sorry for reviving this thread again, but I am thinking about figuring out EXACTLY what to do to run a higher wattage appliance in the bed? I'd like to use the factory outlet, however I understand I may need to modift the system in someway, i.e. bigger inverter, increased wire size, increased fuse size, while maintaining a threshold of no higher than 50% of the alternator output. I tried to run a welder in the bed of my mav and video'd it for all the internet to see. Now i'm on a mission to make it be successful :p

Link in case you care to watch
I don't know where you could attach wire but in the hybrid I think someone posted that the dcdc converter is rated for sustained output of 265 amps so if you could pull half that the ice would cycle on and off to keep the HVB charged.
EDIT TO ADD FOUND IN ANOTHER POST
(You might want to check modifiers guide)

This is directly from the Maverick service manual

" The DCDC is protected by a 50 amp high voltage low current fuse located in the high-voltage BJB . The DCDC steps the high-voltage down to a low-voltage (between 13.0 and 15.5 volts, depending on vehicle needs), providing power to the vehicle low-voltage battery systems. Depending on the vehicle and environmental conditions, the DCDC is capable of outputting up to 265 amps to the 12-volt battery. "

12V power should not be a problem.
 
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Skeeter163

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Can you link to that article for us?

I agree; 400W is extremely limiting. It seems to me that pretty much anything that can run on 400W AC is also available in a 12V DC version, making the inverter kind of pointless.

I'd be happy if anyone is able to counter that statement. I am getting the inverter in my bundle so it'd be nice to find it actually enabling in some way.
Question, can I use the inverter to power a electric pressure washer that draws 13 amps?
 
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I have a Dome tic refrigerator (ice chest style) that I would like to use with the 400 watt plug in the bed of my Lariat, however, the manual say not to use on refrigerators because it is a modified sine wave. Can I wire the auxiliary pigtail in the bed for a power point plug and then use an auxiliary 400 watt pure sine wave inverter and plug my refrigerator into it? the fridge is rated at 6.5 amp Dc 12 volts and .63 amps at AC 120.
 

ItsJustMe

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I ordered the hybrid with a 400W inverter, and I just saw an article that listed what could be run with it. To be honest, it seems like very few things that will be useful to me. Especially when it comes to charging tools. Is there any way to upgrade the inverter? Can that be done? I’m not sure the limitations of car electronics.
You should see my ride at Christmas! Can be seen for miles on 400W
 

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Ford Maverick Upgrading 400W inverter possible? 9C01C20B-C138-4F3C-B946-AE2FC24596A8
What most people over-look is:

While the 400 watt power outlet CAN'T power your corded tools, it can RECHARGE pretty much ANY cordless tool battery charger on the market.

Or even a few at the same time.

This 18V 1 hour battery charger takes just 60 watts. So you could have 6 batteries charging SIMULTANEOUSLY.

I don't know about you, but 7 batteries, 6 on charge, and one in the tool should keep any handyman continuously busy. You won't be waiting on batteries, lets put it that way.
 

GPSMan

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9C01C20B-C138-4F3C-B946-AE2FC24596A8.jpeg
What most people over-look is:

While the 400 watt power outlet CAN'T power your corded tools, it can RECHARGE pretty much ANY cordless tool battery charger on the market.

Or even a few at the same time.

This 18V 1 hour battery charger takes just 60 watts. So you could have 6 batteries charging SIMULTANEOUSLY.

I don't know about you, but 7 batteries, 6 on charge, and one in the tool should keep any handyman continuously busy. You won't be waiting on batteries, lets put it that way.
This 40v battery charger for LARGER tools only needs 80 watts.

Ford Maverick Upgrading 400W inverter possible? B5033B07-A81E-4C04-BBA6-52F3C0016891
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