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I thought the only important issue, was how good they look? I tried some sweet 15" very light wheels on one of my rides, but they just wouldn't fit over the calipers!
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I had snows on steelies on my C-Max, replacing alloys. No difference in mileage, beyond the temperature effect.Actually - I've been really curious for the Hybrid. Steelies aren't....light. ...
Not if they're driving a hybrid, which can recapture up to ~90% of the energy through regenerative braking. Stop and go (slow) can give much higher mileage than freeway (fast) driving with a hybrid.So physics question... So for someone who does lots of stop and go driving would they see worse MPG with a heavier tire than someone who does freeway?
Fwiw Nokian WRG4 and Rotiiva AT Plus are LRR rated tires.If concerned about weight and efficiency, biggest decision IMO will be to decide if you want the compromises of all terrain oriented tires.
When people rate the performance of these, its usually relative to other all terrain tires, and not road focused ones.
I mean, if you really want a cost savings tire you'd want to look at eco tires that are specifically made to reduce rolling resistance and stick to the 225 factory width and have a decent tread life since replacing tires often can be as expensive as buying a lot of fuel.
I have these Michelin Defender LTX for that reason on my Ram 1500 and have been very happy with them, especially in the rain: https://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=Michelin&tireModel=Defender+LTX+M/S
In 225/65/17 they are 29lbs and 720 wear rated in spite of having pretty darn good dry traction and are $70 off right now.
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I'm fairly confident these would be objectively better in most measurable ways on the street thanks to the street oriented tread pattern design, but they aren't going to have that rugged offroad look to them or of course be offroad capable tires, but for the type of dirt roads I've taken my RWD Ram down they'd had no problems.
The definitive rule of thumb that has been tested on dynos is that every 3lbs of wheel/tire weight is about 1hp loss at the wheel.Doesn't help you, but found it interesting that on a large F150 forum, for 20215-2020 generation F150, when you search tires, unsprung, weight you get multiple pages of threads. Nothing definitive on ride quality, lots of opinions (but not so much hard data) on mpg loss. For the Maverick time will tell as experimenters list their wheel/tire swaps and discuss ride quality and mpg's.
Cool factor definitely matters, but IMO you don't have to go with true all-terrain tires to look like they belong on a truck, and you can still do light off-roading without the sacrifice in highway drone and reduced street traction of an all terrain pattern.I thought the only important issue, was how good they look?
I would see a little less mpg primarily that due to increased brake pressure required to slow the momentum the hydraulic brakes would be called on more frequently. May not be enough to matter at all. I am hoping to see something on dash green= Regen brake only, yellow=Regen & hydraulic, red=hydraulic only. But none of the designer dudes ever called me.So physics question - a object in motion tends to want to stay in motion. So it takes more power to get it rolling but once it's rolling it will have more momentum than a lighter tire.
So for someone who does lots of stop and go driving would they see worse MPG with a heavier tire than someone who does freeway?
245/65 R 17 111 T XL T428192 31.2 7-8.5 7.0 29.5 9.8 13 705 438. From spec chart shows 31.2 lbs approved fit 7-8.5 rim with range - next is 7.0 measured rim - then next is diameter 29.5" so 1" over. I do like this tire very much due to fibre reinforcing sidewall and the extra load rating. I am going to look into their low rolling resistance tires also. ThanksAlso check out the Nokian Rotiiva AT. In 245/65R17 they're only 31.2lbs.
Yeah, it reduces the contact patch to run over pressure. Also get bad ride quality, less traction, and uneven wear on the middle of the tread though.I use Michelin Energy Saver A/S tires on my C max inflated to max pressure. Excellent tread life and great mileage ( 41.7 over 6 yrs and 166000 miles) A Goodyear rep (personal friend) once told me that the most efficient tire pressure is 5 lbs OVER the max
The AT Plus are only LT sizes and heavy. The regular Rotiiva AT are LRR as well, though.Fwiw Nokian WRG4 and Rotiiva AT Plus are LRR rated tires.
I think it would depend on where the majority of driving occurs. All highway would follow your theory of the two resistances being greater than rotational weight. In a majority city stop and go scenario I feel the acceleration/deceleration of the mass repeatedly would factor in the mpg more.Fuel economy should be minimally impacted by weight IMO, as most of the time you're not accelerating. The rolling resistance and perhaps wind resistance of the tire would be the biggest factor.
Weight is weight. Physics doesn't care what the material makeup is. 25lb steel wheel vs 25lb aluminum.Does wheel weight matter too? Does anyone have the stock wheel weights? I assume the steelies on the XL are heavier than the aluminum wheels on the other trims. Seems like if a few pounds was enough to effect mpg then the EPA numbers would be different on the different trims? (Of course, that assuming that the steelies are in fact a few pounds heavier per corner).
Right, my point was it may be a 30lb steel wheel vs a 25lb aluminum wheel (purely hypothetical #’s).Weight is weight. Physics doesn't care what the material makeup is. 25lb steel wheel vs 25lb aluminum.
What WOULD make some difference is where the weight is in the wheel. The greater percentage of weight at the hub would be easier to get rotating that the greater amount of weight out at the barrel.
But it would also factor as to where the weight was distributed. 30lb S with mass at the hub vs 25lb A with mass in the spokes out at the barrel.Right, my point was it may be a 30lb steel wheel vs a 25lb aluminum wheel (purely hypothetical #’s).