Tire Pressure is suppose to be...

[Johnkn]

Well, look at it this way.....

Just like your truck depreciates the moment you drive it off the lot, your tires lose pressure the moment you disconnect them from the air pump and continue to lose pressure until the next time you connect to an air pump.

If you set them to exactly 35.00 psi, they will spend their whole lives below 35 psi.

I’m really pulling for you to eventually just get one thing right when you post. LOL

1) there are many, many people on this forum who would disagree with your statement about depreciation when driving off the lot because they have quickly sold for ~$5-10k above what they paid. Correct?

B) the correct method to set tire pressures is cold, and as soon as the vehicle is driven the tires and air heats and pressures rise, until they cool again. Also, tires on almost all of my cars maintain their pressures for more than a year within a lb, sometimes a ~1/10 lb.

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[MavDave]

WOW... sweet baby Jesus, this escalated quickly . I will add my 2 cents, as a forewarning I am not an engineer. I have spent the past 35 years or so working on or around cars. I worked in a tire shop for 5 years (early 00s) so I have seen what pressure difference does to tire wear. 35 is where every SL or XL tire shoud generally be set, unless loaded. In my time at the tire shop we had customers who were adamant about what their pressure should be before leaving (mostly because of stories from their uncle, or Jim Bob's neighbor) to have the tire pressure lower or higher and they were also the customers who never got the mileage out of a set of tires they "should have". On the other side of the stick we had some customers with high end European cars that the door sticker stated the fronts to be inflated to 23-25 and the rears to 28-30. (For a softer ride, we assume) Those owners had the front end and alignment checked every 25k +/- when they bought new tires because the outer edges of the tires were bald but the center section was great. If you want a better ride 32psi is generally the lowest recommended for decent ware. If you want to squeeze every .01 mpg out of your rig, run the maximum on the sidewall. If you're like the majority of people and just want the most mileage out of your tires keep them as close to 35psi as possible. More psi lowers the contact patch and wares the center out, lower psi puts the edges of the tires under more load and eats up the tread.

 

[mavmav]

@GPSMan If you buy 99c balloon at a dollar store it will lose the pressure in a few days. if you have quality tire it will not lose visible/noticeable volume of air (+/- .5 psi. per year given that outside temp is the same i would consider normal for air. not nitrogen. nitrogen is different topic.
I usually adding air in a fall when it is getting below freezing or even twice before winter. opposite in spring: in spring when it is suddenly gets warm after cold winter i would have to deflate tire so it will not be overinflated. if you are losing an air after you disconnect pump please check your pump. perhaps, you are disconnecting a hose from pump side not from the tire?
You can ask an ENGENEER or delivery guy for second opinion or help

 

[Johnkn]

What a sophomoric response.
I would say you are acting juvenile but that's being redundant since that's obvious to the readership at large.

Grow up.

He deleted his post about me above........

Mavmav, completely agree about checking and adjusting tire pressures seasonally. For me here on the East Coast, that’s 4 times annually as pressures can vary 3-4 psi seasonally. For others, it may be needed less frequently.

Good luck...

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[LSchicago]

Well, look at it this way.....

Just like your truck depreciates the moment you drive it off the lot, your tires lose pressure the moment you disconnect them from the air pump and continue to lose pressure until the next time you connect to an air pump.

If you set them to exactly 35.00 psi, they will spend their whole lives below 35 psi when cold. Sorry I had to add "when cold" for the juvenile members here.

By starting at say, 38 or 40, you can hope they are at no less than 35 psi the next time you attach to an air pump.


Not saying 3-5 psi is a big deal. It isn't.
But I just prefer to lean on the side of better MPG.

Have a merry Christmas!

You do realize tire pressure is a level that needs to be maintained? Should be checked once a month and adjust as needed. 35 psi in the tire is 35 no matter what season. Tire pressures when drag racing are different and require constant adjustments. For a regular vehicle, just maintain the desired once a month, and it won't be low going into a season unless you have a leak.

 

[Zotman]

For those of you in Texas and other points south, don't be surprised by a low tire pressure warning tomorrow morning after the temps have plummeted by 50 degrees.

 

[GPSMan]

Right.
The adults of the group know 35 psi is the benchmark, the baseline when cold. Also when out of direct sun.

You've probably noticed that tires on the sunny side of your car/truck can be 3psi higher than the shady size. Pressure is very temperature dependent. Just the sunlight can heat up those tires on the sunny side.

 

[commadorebob]

You will also notice your app will not notify you until the pressure is grossly under 35. Your truck will still run fine at 34 and 36. There is an "-ish" factor in the recommended pressure rating. If it gets too low or too high, then it becomes a safety concern. It should be checked once a month, at oil changes, and before long trips. That's why I prefer the Ryobi auto-pump. It makes the process a lot quicker and easier.

 

[GPSMan]

The mature adults may find this interesting. Even the XLT and I predict XL can have real-time TPMS Pressure sensor readouts with after market OBDII readers. So Ford just "chose" not to give it to you because you didn't pay for Lariat. (There's a lot of things like
this.)

Tire 1 is LF
Tire 2 is RF
Tire 3 is RR
Tire 4 is LR

I have them at 35 psi fronts, 40 psi rears because A) I carry loads of 500 lbs and B) I have FWD and so all motive power is from the front. C) I want a tad better MPG

Pressures set at 55°F which is a good average temperature for San Francisco Bay Area. This was an exceptionally cold morning. Some of you can figure out the ambient based just off the info I've given.

They will be back to "baseline" shortly after the photo was taken as things warm up quickly around here.

Of worthy note: the manual(s) say "Do not use TPMS for inflating tires. The sensors may take up to 20 minutes to update." They usually update quickly for me, but that's the precautionary statement in the manual. And even an update once per minute is obviously too slow. They are "realtime" but not exactly "live"...

 

[jsus]

You will also notice your app will not notify you until the pressure is grossly under 35. Your truck will still run fine at 34 and 36. There is an "-ish" factor in the recommended pressure rating. If it gets too low or too high, then it becomes a safety concern. It should be checked once a month, at oil changes, and before long trips. That's why I prefer the Ryobi auto-pump. It makes the process a lot quicker and easier.

Approximately 20% under the recommended pressure, so that's at 28 PSI that you get a TPMS alert if listed at 35 PSI.

 

[dalola]

Wagon version... Country Sedan

Oh yeah, wagon version even better! That thing is begging to be a resto-mod!

How about modern sus & brakes, custom stitched interior, a quality sleeper paint job w/ custom sleeper alloys, and a twin turbo Megazilla crate motor all tucked under the stock hood. Walk softly and carry a freaking Thor hammer!

 

[Benilla]

35 in the summer, 33 in the winter just for a little bit of extra traction

 

[S. fisher]

I’ve lived in the arctic for 28 years, in the winter I air up to 38 Lbs on passenger rated tires. When it hits -40’s the pressure will drop to 29 lbs. Once the flat spots even out and they warm up from driving they will raise to 31-32 lbs.

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