Sound system installation cost

[colinl]

No the beam in your front doors, you'll have two beams, one for your airbag sensors, which don't touch those, and then below it is another beam, here is a picture of mine, put it on the outsides where it meets the flat metal for the door. It's hard to tell because the mega zorbe on mine, I have it circled in red.

I couldn't see this pic well on my phone but now on a pc I realize that you took off the black plastic cover and put deadening material actually inside the door where the window track is at.

I didn't do that, and probably most people haven't, either. I am not sure that I would, even though I do still have some elusive resonance, from bass guitar mainly and occasionally the right percussion.

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[Thagh0st]

I couldn't see this pic well on my phone but now on a pc I realize that you took off the black plastic cover and put deadening material actually inside the door where the window track is at.

I didn't do that, and probably most people haven't, either. I am not sure that I would, even though I do still have some elusive resonance, from bass guitar mainly and occasionally the right percussion.

It's really easy, all that work on both doors most likely took my 4 hours total, and now that I know how to take the black piece off better, I could take it off in about 15 minutes and that's with the door trim.

That made most likely the biggest difference in how it sounded as well. I had put some audiofrog speakers in at that time and wasn't a fan of the tweeter so I sent them back, put the OEM stuff back in, it made the stock midbass alot better.

 

[LM42]

I couldn't see this pic well on my phone but now on a pc I realize that you took off the black plastic cover and put deadening material actually inside the door where the window track is at.

I didn't do that, and probably most people haven't, either. I am not sure that I would, even though I do still have some elusive resonance, from bass guitar mainly and occasionally the right percussion.

I did this, and it helped a ton. I did also put deadener on the actual door panel. But just closing my doors now, and also when tapping the sheet metal on the outside it sounds like a much more premium vehicle now.

 

[Aaron F]

Following this to see people's different cost experiences. I've been quoted from $2k-3k, which is definitely more than I expected for front components, a sub, and an amp to run it all.

One of the shops computer system recommended using this:
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_541AP4FD31/PAC-AmpPro-AP4-FD31-Amplifier-Interface.html?tp=76871

I haven't seen anyone in this group mention this specific product. Is it a good option or even necessary?

 

[Dodeboost]

So I pulled my door panel off to do the sound deadening, and there’s water right behind the speaker. A bit concerning. Is this normal?

 

[FischAutoTechGarten]

So I pulled my door panel off to do the sound deadening, and there’s water right behind the speaker. A bit concerning. Is this normal?

Have you recently done any high pressure washing where you might have aimed the water right into the window channel? Just curious..

 

[Dodeboost]

Have you recently done any high pressure washing where you might have aimed the water right into the window channel? Just curious..

No, but we’ve had rain the past 3-4 days. I’m always careful with the hose around door/window seals.

 

[Darnon]

Following this to see people's different cost experiences. I've been quoted from $2k-3k, which is definitely more than I expected for front components, a sub, and an amp to run it all.

One of the shops computer system recommended using this:
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_541AP4FD31/PAC-AmpPro-AP4-FD31-Amplifier-Interface.html?tp=76871

I haven't seen anyone in this group mention this specific product. Is it a good option or even necessary?

At least on paper I think the Axxess AXDSPX-A2B2 is better. More output channels and controls for equalizer/DSP. While the MSRP is higher it's actually some $70 cheaper than the PAC on eBay.

Either of those are if you really want to get nerdy with controlling all of the audio output and interposing your own amplifier(s) for all of the speakers. mObridge and NavTV have similar products as well for interfacing with the digital A2B audio output.

If you don't want to pay that much the KISS approach is just use a PAC APH-FD02 harness to plug'n'play tap in/output to the front stereo (woofer+tweeters) and subwoofer. Upgrade the center speaker while you're at it and maybe adapt some 4x6's to the rears.

 

[colinl]

Following this to see people's different cost experiences. I've been quoted from $2k-3k, which is definitely more than I expected for front components, a sub, and an amp to run it all.

One of the shops computer system recommended using this:
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_541AP4FD31/PAC-AmpPro-AP4-FD31-Amplifier-Interface.html?tp=76871

I haven't seen anyone in this group mention this specific product. Is it a good option or even necessary?

That's definitely the interface for sync3, so lariat lux. I'm not sure if it's the same harness for the "connected Ford audio" system in other trim levels.

 

[Aaron F]

At least on paper I think the Axxess AXDSPX-A2B2 is better. More output channels and controls for equalizer/DSP. While the MSRP is higher it's actually some $70 cheaper than the PAC on eBay.

Either of those are if you really want to get nerdy with controlling all of the audio output and interposing your own amplifier(s) for all of the speakers. mObridge and NavTV have similar products as well for interfacing with the digital A2B audio output.

If you don't want to pay that much the KISS approach is just use a PAC APH-FD02 harness to plug'n'play tap in/output to the front stereo (woofer+tweeters) and subwoofer. Upgrade the center speaker while you're at it and maybe adapt some 4x6's to the rears.

This does look like a nicer option on paper. My initial thought was that my "high end" was going to be to drop in a 5 channel amp (JL 900/5), either bi-amp or bridge to a set of components up front, and run a subwoofer. Until reading a bunch of threads here, I didn't realize that a dsp might be needed in order to get a full audio signal. So, now I'll probably be saving my pennies and weighing my options between something like this, or the easier integration wiring options with an audiocontrol or similar amplifier with dsp built in. Replacing the center/rear speakers and leaving on factory power would be the cheap part.

 

[Thagh0st]

This does look like a nicer option on paper. My initial thought was that my "high end" was going to be to drop in a 5 channel amp (JL 900/5), either bi-amp or bridge to a set of components up front, and run a subwoofer. Until reading a bunch of threads here, I didn't realize that a dsp might be needed in order to get a full audio signal. So, now I'll probably be saving my pennies and weighing my options between something like this, or the easier integration wiring options with an audiocontrol or similar amplifier with dsp built in. Replacing the center/rear speakers and leaving on factory power would be the cheap part.

I'm honestly not sure if the Audio control dsp has the ability to flatten or clean the factory HU signal, when I was messing around with them a couple years ago and when I was helping a buddy tune a truck a few months ago you couldn't and it was very buggy and would crash over and over. It also didn't have a parametric EQ function.

I do know they just got a huge update though, so that all might have changed in the last couple months

 

[Dodeboost]

I put CLD all over the front door panels, as well as the black plastic piece where the window regulator is. I didn’t want to remove that piece so I reached in through the speaker hole and put as much as I could directly behind the speaker. Marginal improvement to the sound system, although the door panels do vibrate less than they did before. When I was doing this I noticed the speaker magnet had water on it. We got a good bit of rain recently. So today I installed foam speaker baffles in an effort to protect the speakers from water and hopefully reduce sound getting into the door cavity as much. Reviews are split between “they make my speakers better” and “they make my speakers worse”. In my case I’d say they actually made them worse. Bass is definitely less with these installed. I did cut a 2”x4” hole in the bottom of the baffle to allow air flow which helped a little but they still sound a bit muffled and have less bass. At this point I want to just forget about the baffle and put foam on the door behind the speaker but I’m still concerned about the water issue…

 

[Thagh0st]

You won't get much benefits unless you put it on the door itself, putting them on the door card and the black piece will do a tiny bit but not much like you noticed.

Definitely get rid of the boom mat speaker baffles, they cut off airflow to the driver which is why your getting less bass now, and in all honesty I've seen them get soaked with water as well. I will only use the nvx silicone baffles they protect the speakers from falling water that gets in the doors, but they also provide a nice gasket between the speaker and the mounting surface and also help seal the speaker to the door panel.

Also becareful what foam you put back there as well, you want a good quality melamine foam that's hydrophobic or certain types of Closed cell foam thats decent for backwaves but in all honesty CCF won't do much behind the door and should be used black window regulator and the door card. In all honesty get some CLD and cover it's 100% on the door skin and it will do alot more then you think.

Don't be to concerned about the water, as long as your not getting a waterfall back there your fine, companies understand the environment they are used in and make the speakers to be able to handle it, a few drips won't hurt anything

 

[Dodeboost]

You won't get much benefits unless you put it on the door itself, putting them on the door card and the black piece will do a tiny bit but not much like you noticed.

Definitely get rid of the boom mat speaker baffles, they cut off airflow to the driver which is why your getting less bass now, and in all honesty I've seen them get soaked with water as well. I will only use the nvx silicone baffles they protect the speakers from falling water that gets in the doors, but they also provide a nice gasket between the speaker and the mounting surface and also help seal the speaker to the door panel.

Also becareful what foam you put back there as well, you want a good quality melamine foam that's hydrophobic or certain types of Closed cell foam thats decent for backwaves but in all honesty CCF won't do much behind the door and should be used black window regulator and the door card. In all honesty get some CLD and cover it's 100% on the door skin and it will do alot more then you think.

Don't be to concerned about the water, as long as your not getting a waterfall back there your fine, companies understand the environment they are used in and make the speakers to be able to handle it, a few drips won't hurt anything

Right on, I just ordered some mega zorbe melamine foam which is hydrophobic. I’ll put that on the inside of the door and ditch the baffles. I figured reducing the air available to the speaker wasn’t a good idea but I tried it anyway because I didn’t like seeing the water on it. It wasn’t soaked, just a little bit on the back of the magnet. I didn’t want to remove the back piece because it looks like it’s glued on. Was yours glued?

 

[Thagh0st]

Right on, I just ordered some mega zorbe melamine foam which is hydrophobic. I’ll put that on the inside of the door and ditch the baffles. I figured reducing the air available to the speaker wasn’t a good idea but I tried it anyway because I didn’t like seeing the water on it. It wasn’t soaked, just a little bit on the back of the magnet. I didn’t want to remove the back piece because it looks like it’s glued on. Was yours glued?

Heck yeah man, that's exactly what I have in mine. I'm actually about to redo mine and do luxury liner pro and then mega zorbe on top of it ( I messed up and didn't do 100% coverage on the door skin for CLD and I'm getting flex)

I can't blame you for that, it's worth a try to atleast protect it, definitely give that nvx silicone baffles a try then, they are open baffle, but I don't think we will have the room for them.

Nope it's not glued, two of the yellow stickers need to come off and then I believe either 10mm or 12mm socket to get the window off the regulator track, have your window cracked open a few inches, give lazymex2022 a watch on YouTube, he put some focal k2 in his and did resonix CLD and did a bada** job and shows how to get the black piece off very well

Here is a picture of the mega zorbe on mine, do solid layers and not random squares like a did lol

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