Simple B&O upgrade and sub solution.

[colinl]

That's interesting it's filtered on both ends.. I thought I had seen a thread with a possible way to modify this via forscan... Luckily the Dayton's frequency response is 36 to 1,100Hz, so based on what you're saying it wouldn't matter if following the OP's method.

it is normal to have a low pass filter on a sub. the high pass is there to keep the 6x9 woofer from overexcursion because it can't really play below 35hz. probably not too performant below 50hz, honestly.

Ford does this on all their B&O systems, 35hz high pass. Most of them use a 8" woofer and larger amp, we have something unique for the Mav.

Sponsored

 

[haze10]

I have two CDT 5" Braxials from a previous project. These are the ones that incorporate a 1" silk tweeter on a bracket over the 5" cone with seperate crossover electronics. I'd like to put them in the front doors. Do you know if the signal going to the door speaker is 'full' range, or is the frequency range limited. For the speakers to work properly, they would need the full spectrum.

 

[squints]

Think there's any shot the B&O sub could power a Kicker 48CWRT672 in parallel?

 

[22Lariat]

Think there's any shot the B&O sub could power a Kicker 48CWRT672 in parallel?

It might be worth a shot. It most likely won't fit the enclosure though. If you can return it I'd probably build an enclosure and give it a try.

 

[TruckPrius]

I thought I had a big brain moment and tried out plugging up the hole for the infinite baffle at the back of the enclosure with sound deadener. My rough calculation is the little enclosure is ~0.2^3 ft. Not sure if it sounded better as I was getting a lot of rattling from something, maybe inside of the enclosure itself that I would need to secure if I wanted to go this way.

Put it back the way it was and recorded a few short video clips with the audio faded 100% rear and volume at 30. Hopefully the sound quality comes through okay from my phone recording.

What's interesting is the paper flapping (and causing the rattling sound) in the port in the bottom. Makes it seem like it's using the space behind the enclosure and down below the cab as a box

https://www.veed.io/view/54bea3ab-5e8d-4abd-8c93-f8e027721181
https://www.veed.io/view/ed3b9cbd-ec84-45fe-8b8e-2b6aa2b70c16
https://www.veed.io/view/5eceb0f8-6ba5-4dd6-8030-ae69a034a72f

PS Can we upload short clips with music to demonstrate the gear like this directly to the forum?

 

[uh50]

I have two CDT 5" Braxials from a previous project. These are the ones that incorporate a 1" silk tweeter on a bracket over the 5" cone with seperate crossover electronics. I'd like to put them in the front doors. Do you know if the signal going to the door speaker is 'full' range, or is the frequency range limited. For the speakers to work properly, they would need the full spectrum.

I have not heard of any frequency limitations for the front door speakers. I installed coax Infinity Reference REF-6532IX which were 3 ohm and they sound great. I did not disconnect the tweeters in the dash since the tweeters in the infinity are more efficient, and sound great. Some have reported frequency limitation on the rear channels, but through my DSP that has been removed (rear channels fed from front channels through DSP.).

 

[Snowbird]

I have not heard of any frequency limitations for the front door speakers. I installed coax Infinity Reference REF-6532IX which were 3 ohm and they sound great. I did not disconnect the tweeters in the dash since the tweeters in the infinity are more efficient, and sound great. Some have reported frequency limitation on the rear channels, but through my DSP that has been removed (rear channels fed from front channels through DSP.).

I am about to pull the trigger on the PUZU DSP amp that you have. I am a little gun shy about my ability to tune it. How hard is it to feed the rear channels from the fronts as you describe?

 

[uh50]

I am about to pull the trigger on the PUZU DSP amp that you have. I am a little gun shy about my ability to tune it. How hard is it to feed the rear channels from the fronts as you describe?

First, the factory default settings on mine were fantastic. I did not change much of anything, but I did go through the different settings making sure I saved those that I liked. Using the front channel input for the rear channels were the default setup on mine. Just in case, I set my sound settings on the Ford ACM to "all seats," which also removes at least some of the limitation in stock mode.

Have you watched any of the videos about the Puzu DSP on youtube.com? I would recommend it. There are also videos available on YouTube.com that help with tuning.

Hope that helps.

 

[Snowbird]

First, the factory default settings on mine were fantastic. I did not change much of anything, but I did go through the different settings making sure I saved those that I liked. Using the front channel input for the rear channels were the default setup on mine. Just in case, I set my sound settings on the Ford ACM to "all seats," which also removes at least some of the limitation in stock mode.

Have you watched any of the videos about the Puzu DSP on youtube.com? I would recommend it. There are also videos available on YouTube.com that help with tuning.

Hope that helps.

Thanks. I was hoping that there was a factory default setting on the amp!

I watched the videos that you posted on another thread, Full audio upgrade complete.

 

[converseguy]

Per this thread I bought the Dayton subwoofer and installed it last weekend. I took a shot at wiring it up. I am curious how you chose where to put the wires. The Dayton has red and black connections. I chose to wire the black connection to the black wire from the truck. I assume I would want the phasing between the front speaker and the subwoofer to be in phase so they would not cancel out. Can you tell me how you wired in the Dayton?

 

[TruckPrius]

Per this thread I bought the Dayton subwoofer and installed it last weekend. I took a shot at wiring it up. I am curious how you chose where to put the wires. The Dayton has red and black connections. I chose to wire the black connection to the black wire from the truck. I assume I would want the phasing between the front speaker and the subwoofer to be in phase so they would not cancel out. Can you tell me how you wired in the Dayton?

Here's some wiring diagrams someone posted:
https://www.mavericktruckclub.com/f...or-remote-in-audio-harness.12949/#post-258270

Believe white should go to red and black to black.

 

[converseguy]

Here's some wiring diagrams someone posted:
https://www.mavericktruckclub.com/f...or-remote-in-audio-harness.12949/#post-258270

Believe white should go to red and black to black.

I am not sure it if is safe to assume that the black wire on the original woofer goes to the negative input of the woofer. Ford does weird things with wire colors. My old truck, 2004 Tacoma had an after market Kenwood head unit and a 10 inch subwoofer in a box with a 200W mono amp. I cannot tell you how much better that sounded than the bass in the Maverick. I get that I cannot expect the same from the much smaller Dayton speaker. I can see the Dayton cone moving so I know it is working but the amount of bass from it is underwhelming. This made me wonder if it might be out of phase with the front speakers.

 

[colinl]

I am not sure it if is safe to assume that the black wire on the original woofer goes to the negative input of the woofer. Ford does weird things with wire colors. My old truck, 2004 Tacoma had an after market Kenwood head unit and a 10 inch subwoofer in a box with a 200W mono amp. I cannot tell you how much better that sounded than the bass in the Maverick. I get that I cannot expect the same from the much smaller Dayton speaker. I can see the Dayton cone moving so I know it is working but the amount of bass from it is underwhelming. This made me wonder if it might be out of phase with the front speakers.

Diagram attached. Black is negative, but your other comments are spot on as you can see every other speaker has some other colors for negative.

Does the output seem improved at all? If it's a lower efficiency speaker it actually could be less SPL if it's very underpowered.

The B&O sub is linked to the rear fader. So that unfortunately does mean that if you want more output from it, you're also going to get more output from the rear 4" when you fade. If you punt on this experiment and want to connect an amp or powered sub to the B&O 6x9 connection, I recommend setting the fade with it disconnected and playing the system at volume 27-30. Then leave the fade where it is, forever, and set the gain on your amp / powered sub. That's what I did.

 

[Montana]

I added the grille to mine and got the adapters seen on page 6.

I'm hoping I'll be able to install everything on Friday.

Still baffles me that the Escapes get an 8" enclosure and the same amount of space needed for that setup is swapped for a 6x9 in our trucks...

 

[colinl]

Still baffles me that the Escapes get an 8" enclosure and the same amount of space needed for that setup is swapped for a 6x9 in our trucks...

Cost, probably. Smaller amp for sure.

I would like to slap every person in the focus group meeting that decided on the door pockets and 4" rear pillar speakers, rather than the 6.5" components in the doors like the Bronco Sport and Escape.

Sponsored