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Factory are not LED. LED are brighter. Supposed to last longer. (I think it depends on the quality of the LEDs though.)
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Brighter isn’t better if they don’t work/last! I have 22 xl and it’s fine. Sometimes we create our own problems
I changed to brighter back up lights on all my vehicles only, for the obvious reasons. The rest are an unnecessary choice in my opinion.
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Or the quality of everything surrounding the LED. The LED itself might be rated for 20,000 hours...in a perfect lab environment. But soldered to a circuit board with inferior heat dissipation and subject to vibration will drastically reduce that.
Also not better if they don't have the same brightness differentiation and/or "fill" as incandescent. I've seen some LED drop-ins that might be brighter theoretically, but likely due to the shape of the reflector and where the LEDs are aimed, the performance to the eye is worse than incandescent other than lighting up instantly.
The main reason I switched my current Nissan Frontier's tail/brake lights to Sylvania Zevo LED is because it only has two rear tail/brake lights. I left the turn signals and reverse lights as incandescent. The Maverick has four combination stop/tail/turn lights, so I probably wouldn't bother.
What I did get a lot of comments on when I had my F-250 was the additional stop/tail/turn lights I mounted on the headache rack. Not only did I double the number of lights, but the ones on the headache rack were high above most other vehicles, so traffic behind me could anticipate what was gonna happen.
They have cool factory LED accent lighting, yes, but are otherwise the same as the XL and XLT with incandescent bulbs for tail and brake lamps.
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For those of you who are questioning stock vs LED, it's clear that you haven't read the whole thread (why am I not surprised on this forum?)
Please see post #8 and watch the video. You're missing something at least as important than brightness and longevity, if not more.
Please see post #8 and watch the video. You're missing something at least as important than brightness and longevity, if not more.
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https://amzn.to/4tH7SId
you want something like this, a bulb WITHOUT a built in resistor... if it says anything about resistor, anti-hyperflash, etc it WILL eventually burn out.
Either turn off the hyperflash with forscan or deal with it -- the hyperflash is only in the instrument cluster signal icon, the actual bulbs on the car exterior flash at a normal speed no matter what.
those tiny bulbs have a resistor built in and those things get HOT, like you wouldnt expect them to get that hot, hot. A regular inc bulb is like ~20w and an led bulb is probably ~5w and the point of the resistor on an led bulb is to add that load back in so the vehicle system doesnt see the drastic change in wattage as a burnt out bulb, but that extra heat HAS to go somewhere, thats physics baby.
So a tiny led bulb that would normally run cool and reliably for 100k hours, you then add another 3-4x its power consumption into pure pointless wasted heat in a tiny enclosed space like a taillight housing where there is no airflow to dissipate it properly, and its just a matter of time until it goes -- just enough time to be after the warranty/return period of course.
If you don't want to mess with forscan, and don't want the turn signal indicator in the dashboard to flash and give you an existential crisis every time you look at it, your other choice is to add a resistor to the factory wiring, and you will need to add that to each bulb, and that can get expensive, time consuming, and a pain in the butt.
https://amzn.to/4uiPMML
https://amzn.to/48sL2Mc
Thats what I did on all my bulbs, I have non-resistor led's all around on my '25 -- front amber, 4x red brake, and 2x reverse, no issues, and before I turned off hyper flash with forscan, i confirmed that with the dash signal indicator blinking fast, the actual bulbs blinked at a regular interval.
On my last vehicle I did the manual resistor way, added that morimoto resistor to each corner of the factory wiring, and it worked great with no issues for years up until I traded it in for the maverick.
Alright folks, that's my set, you've been great, remember to tip your waiter.
you want something like this, a bulb WITHOUT a built in resistor... if it says anything about resistor, anti-hyperflash, etc it WILL eventually burn out.
Either turn off the hyperflash with forscan or deal with it -- the hyperflash is only in the instrument cluster signal icon, the actual bulbs on the car exterior flash at a normal speed no matter what.
those tiny bulbs have a resistor built in and those things get HOT, like you wouldnt expect them to get that hot, hot. A regular inc bulb is like ~20w and an led bulb is probably ~5w and the point of the resistor on an led bulb is to add that load back in so the vehicle system doesnt see the drastic change in wattage as a burnt out bulb, but that extra heat HAS to go somewhere, thats physics baby.
So a tiny led bulb that would normally run cool and reliably for 100k hours, you then add another 3-4x its power consumption into pure pointless wasted heat in a tiny enclosed space like a taillight housing where there is no airflow to dissipate it properly, and its just a matter of time until it goes -- just enough time to be after the warranty/return period of course.
If you don't want to mess with forscan, and don't want the turn signal indicator in the dashboard to flash and give you an existential crisis every time you look at it, your other choice is to add a resistor to the factory wiring, and you will need to add that to each bulb, and that can get expensive, time consuming, and a pain in the butt.
https://amzn.to/4uiPMML
https://amzn.to/48sL2Mc
Thats what I did on all my bulbs, I have non-resistor led's all around on my '25 -- front amber, 4x red brake, and 2x reverse, no issues, and before I turned off hyper flash with forscan, i confirmed that with the dash signal indicator blinking fast, the actual bulbs blinked at a regular interval.
On my last vehicle I did the manual resistor way, added that morimoto resistor to each corner of the factory wiring, and it worked great with no issues for years up until I traded it in for the maverick.
Alright folks, that's my set, you've been great, remember to tip your waiter.
Those are the Form Lighting tail lights mentioned in post #1 of this thread.
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They only hyperflash on the inside at least on 2025 and newer. It looks normal from the outside. So plug and play.
That's true for any LED bulb without resistors, all model years.
That's why we have mentioned particular LEDs in this thread that are made correctly AND LAST.
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