Rear wheel spacers

[Tug Toy]

you did 20mm on rear?? i was trying to measure and irt was looking more like 25mm.. im doing the same thing. which spacers did you go with and anything special you had to do?

Alright good catch. I think I have been telling stories? The spacer /adapter was a 15mm or 5/8. a 20mm would be just over 3/4.
When I was using the washers to test fit that’s the 2 spacer thicknesses I was choosing from.
I apologize for the misinform. They were eBay specials outa California. Make sure you get the right size lugs.
The fenders are so round front to back that I finally kinda measured off the mudflaps front and back.

it’s hard to pick. I know it’s only 5mm difference but It can make all the difference…

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[Charles S]

Heres a picture of the spacers on the truck. The goo is anti corrosion treatment.

Do you have a link to the spacers, cannot locate.

 

[Charles S]

Perfect, thank you!

 

[FischAutoTechGarten]

It was very common for those racing Volvo S60s to put a 5mm or 10mm spacer on the rear to widen the track slightly... I'm guessing that is optimal. Seems that's about what is needed on the Maverick's to bring the wheels out just a bit...

5mm would be accomodated by the existing studs, where as 10mm would start to require longer studs.

Here's an example:
www.amazon.com/Eibach-S90-2-10-022-PRO-Spacer-10mm-Pair/dp/BV7NSSZRRG

I cite the Volvo S60 example becuase they are 5 x 108 just like our Mavericks ... In fact, Volvo has used Ford wheels on many models dating back to the P1800e

I'm considering the very minor 5mm spacers myself to bring my new 245/60 R18 tires about a bit in the rear as they don't quite look as aggressive as the fronts.

 

[FischAutoTechGarten]

Resurrecting this thread because I did in fact order the 5mm spacers, sort of. LOL


Regardless, it's here. So I went to order 5mm spacers about 3 months ago, and in a moment of absent mindedness ordered 7mm. Very disappointed in myself. When I opened up the box, I noticed they were a bit thicker than I expected, and checked my order info, and yup... my bad, my mistake. I can't send them back as I've had them a while now. Perhaps I could make them work by sourcing a bit longer wheel studs.

I have read confilicting information that the rear hubs on the AWD Mavericks are serviceable and not serviceable. I've heard FWD rears not serviceable, AWD rears are serviceable. However, I still haven't found a source for longer M14 studs.

However, I've heard of others using lug nuts that achieve a bit more thread engagement by having a portion of them that just fits thorugh the stud holes in the rim.

A poster in another thread made this observation about the 18" Maverick BAP wheels and it's stud holes:
"The Ford 18" OEM BAP wheel, sized for 14mm studs. It has .681" stud holes, and recesses between that could allow a stud to protrude."
https://www.mavericktruckclub.com/forum/threads/wheel-spacers-options.51462/post-883097

The implication was that these could be employed:
they yield an extra 7.62mm of engagement, which should compensate for the 7mm I'd loose with the 7mm spacers. I just have to accomodate the .62" (15.75mm) diameter of the engaged portion. I no longer have the Optional Maverick 18" Black Appearance Package Matte Black wheels, but the Optional Bronco Sport 18" Big Bend Ebony Black Machine Faced Aluminum wheels. I'll need to check if they have the same .68"(17.25") stud holes.

I also need to look at the lug seat. I know that's been a concern for many who have swapped out lug nuts... Lug seat on these is 60deg but described as Acorn... where as Maverick is 60deg Conical.

I'd be looking at something like this:

https://lugnutguys.com/collections/lug-nuts-et/products/et-style-bulge-acorn-lug-nut-14x1-5-chrome

Ford conical (but open ended, not closed)

I'm over thinking this... Are these Acorns really the wrong thing to get if I'm looking to engage a bit more thread?

 

[Master Blaster]

I have the optional factory Bushwacker exposed-bolts flares that add an extra 2.25" width, and these left the rear tires looking seriously wrong. The fronts still looked ok, so I have not changed their offset. I added 1.5" spacers to the rear only, and that fixed the look a lot without leaving the wheel sticking out too far and throwing crap all up the sides of the vehicle. 1.5" is the minimum size that you need to fit without cutting the studs. I used the Vlaoschi forged ones from Amazon, and they were very good quality and a really easy upgrade.

 

[FischAutoTechGarten]

I have the optional factory Bushwacker exposed-bolts flares that add an extra 2.25" width, and these left the rear tires looking seriously wrong. The fronts still looked ok, so I have not changed their offset. I added 1.5" spacers to the rear only, and that fixed the look a lot without leaving the wheel sticking out too far and throwing crap all up the sides of the vehicle. 1.5" is the minimum size that you need to fit without cutting the studs. I used the Vlaoschi forged ones from Amazon, and they were very good quality and a really easy upgrade.

Yeah, I'm not going that large.... Just looking to use these simple 7mm spacers (> 1/4"). I have 245/60 R18 tires... so I just want to bring out the rears to the body relative to the way the fronts look now... so 7mm x 2 = 14mm extra 'track' for the rear.

 

[HeyBales]

Not sure if helpful in expanding knowledge if rear hubs/bearings serviceable or not.
Description in the process of wheel bearing and wheel hub removal is different between FWD & RWD - not sure if that's meaningful, or merely they didn't keep wording consistent that could have been.

This is just removal, the next step in manual was Installation, there was nothing like bearing removal or such from the hub.

FWD:
Removal
NOTICE: Suspension fasteners are critical parts that affect the performance of vital components and systems. Failure of these fasteners may result in major service expense. Use the same or equivalent parts if replacement is necessary. Do not use a replacement part of lesser quality or substitute design. Tighten fasteners as specified.
NOTE: Removal steps in this procedure may contain installation details.
1. Remove the brake disc.
Refer to: Brake Disc (206-03 Front Disc Brake, Removal and Installation).
2. Remove the rear wheel speed sensor.
Refer to: Rear Wheel Speed Sensor - LHD FWD (206-09) .
3. Remove and discard the wheel hub bolts and remove the wheel hub and position aside the brake disc shield.

AWD:
Removal
NOTICE: Suspension fasteners are critical parts that affect the performance of vital components and systems. Failure of these fasteners may result in major service expense. Use the same or equivalent parts if replacement is necessary. Do not use a replacement part of lesser quality or substitute design. Tighten fasteners as specified.
1. Remove the wheel and tire.
Refer to: Wheel and Tire (204-04A Wheels and Tires, Removal and Installation).
2. NOTE: Apply the brake to keep the halfshaft from rotating.
Remove and discard the wheel hub nut.
3. Disconnect the wheel speed sensor electrical connector & retainer.
4. Remove the brake disc.
Refer to: Brake Disc (206-04 Rear Disc Brake, Removal and Installation).
5. NOTE: Push the halfshaft into the wheel hub to gain access for the removal of the wheel bearing and wheel hub bolts.
Install the special tool and press the halfshaft from the rear wheel bearing and wheel hub.
Use Special Service Tool: 205-D070 (D93P-1175-B) Â Remover, Front Wheel Hub.
6. Remove and discard the wheel bearing and wheel hub bolts and remove the wheel bearing and wheel hub.

Wheel studs.
FWD:
Removal
1. Remove the wheel bearing and wheel hub.
Refer to: Wheel Bearing and Wheel Hub (204-02A Rear Suspension - LHD FWD, Removal and Installation).
2. Press the wheel stud from the wheel bearing and wheel hub flange.
Use the General Equipment: Hydraulic Press
3. Visual check.
Inspect the wheel bearing and wheel hub flange for corrosion or damage. Replace as necessary.

AWD: (the same)
Removal
1. Remove the wheel bearing and wheel hub.
Refer to: Wheel Bearing and Wheel Hub (204-02B Rear Suspension - LHD AWD, Removal and Installation).
2. Press the wheel stud from the wheel bearing and wheel hub flange.
Use the General Equipment: Hydraulic Press
3. Visual check.
Inspect the wheel bearing and wheel hub flange for corrosion or damage. Replace as necessary.


It sure seems like there is space in the hub to knock out a stud to put a new one in, I'll have to look closer on the next flat I change, never examined that when doing brake checks. But maybe they didn't leave enough room behind that.
How annoying - now I really don't want to let anyone else change a wheel and deal with lug nuts.

ETA - just went to pages on front studs - super stupid annoying - nope, no one else touching it:
Removal
1. NOTE: Wheel studs are not serviceable separately. Wheel bearing and wheel hub assembly must be replaced.
Remove the front wheel bearing and wheel hub.
Refer to: Front Wheel Bearing and Wheel Hub (204-01 Front Suspension, Removal and Installation).
Installation
1. NOTE: Wheel studs are not serviceable separately. Wheel bearing and wheel hub assembly must be replaced.
Install the front wheel bearing and wheel hub.
Refer to: Front Wheel Bearing and Wheel Hub (204-01 Front Suspension, Removal and Installation).

 

[thev8man]

Sorry here’s the after. I can’t seem to edit the original.

Here is a shot of the front for comparison.

Booyah

 

[JMJB]

Threads like this make me happy to just leave my Mav stock ...

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