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- #16
Quick question… if I want this harness, the Key200.1 and an extra set of line-outs for a powered sub, which harness set up would work for me?
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Question about upgrading audio and adding a subwoofer.
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- #18
Man you’re awesome! Thanks so much! Can’t wait to hear Boston and Van Halen with the new setup14.
Welcome, but after sleeping on it, I'm not sure I would actually do that.
The lc2i has accubass, a DSP for subwoofers, so it's a great value, but it's more costly than a basic line out converter. It's exactly what you want if you you're installing an amp without a DSP and a sub enclosure.
I would not connect it to a cheap Rockville powered sub or something like that, it would be better money spent to get their kit with the hs10 included.
Dang how do I get you guys to order from me? I'm the actual forum vendor for custom harnesses and audio gear lol. I can do a better job custom made for you instead of prebuilt stuff that might not fit your application. I can make things plug and play. Send me an email if interested [email protected]. Look my company up on Google. I've made a ton of these things.
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- Thread starter
- #21
Wish I would have seen this before I got mine! Do you do other vehicles? Trying to get one for my wife's 2017 Audi A6
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- Thread starter
- #23
Oof, you sure did
. He's not too far from me, I'm sure I'll find an excuse to send some business his way.
Send me an email as this is about a totally different platform. Not fair to use this site for that info. [email protected]
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- Thread starter
- #25
Got the speakers put in last week. BIG upgrade, even without the DSP. With the wiring harness and mounting adapters from crutchfield, this was super simple and everything dropped right in.
The tweeters were a different story. The harness that Crutchfield send for the tweeters did not work, so I ended up having to cut off the factory plug to wire in the crossovers. Not really a big deal. The aftermarket tweeters were slightly larger than factory, so I had to use a dremel to widen the opening a few mm. But after that, they dropped right in and they sounded much better.
The Puzu DSP came in this week and I got that installed and WOW. Another huge difference. Haven't messed with the tuning too much in the Puzu software, but even with the default tuning, it sounds incredible.
Puzu included the harness adapter so that install was also a breeze. Popped off the climate control panel, wired in the harness, and it was good to go. For now, the Puzu is just sitting in my glove box. When I run the wires for the Sub/amp, I'll tuck it up behind the glove box. Since I had the dash open already, I went ahead and ran the wires for my bass knob. It's not connected to anything yet, but I shouldn't have to open the dash anymore.
Definitely a huge upgrade and super simple to do. One unexpected side effect is my my Ford chime and other alerts are also noticeably louder. Not sure if there's a way to reduce the volume on those.
The tweeters were a different story. The harness that Crutchfield send for the tweeters did not work, so I ended up having to cut off the factory plug to wire in the crossovers. Not really a big deal. The aftermarket tweeters were slightly larger than factory, so I had to use a dremel to widen the opening a few mm. But after that, they dropped right in and they sounded much better.
The Puzu DSP came in this week and I got that installed and WOW. Another huge difference. Haven't messed with the tuning too much in the Puzu software, but even with the default tuning, it sounds incredible.
Puzu included the harness adapter so that install was also a breeze. Popped off the climate control panel, wired in the harness, and it was good to go. For now, the Puzu is just sitting in my glove box. When I run the wires for the Sub/amp, I'll tuck it up behind the glove box. Since I had the dash open already, I went ahead and ran the wires for my bass knob. It's not connected to anything yet, but I shouldn't have to open the dash anymore.
Definitely a huge upgrade and super simple to do. One unexpected side effect is my my Ford chime and other alerts are also noticeably louder. Not sure if there's a way to reduce the volume on those.
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I believe you can either reduce the volume or kill them entirely with Forscan, but I haven't personally done it.
This is a super common complaint when adding aftermarket amps to Ford. Search these terms and you'll find Mustang, F150, Bronco people all talking about it. And, I think, solving it.
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To hush down the chimes to normal level, I set the gain/volume to all the door speakers to 25, default value seems to be 60 or 40. You can set it in the sound "channel" page where the sound delay and channel mute function is. (I was trying to config on an android phone so might be different on PC)
I'm on stock speakers and my initial opinions are mixed. I have to do speakers now for sure.
I'm on stock speakers and my initial opinions are mixed. I have to do speakers now for sure.
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There is ForScan info here. I haven't heard any dinging through the audio system since I changed the three settings below. There are more that can be disabled also if a person wants to.
I'm a bit confused by this sentence. The RSE-165 are a component set with an outboard crossover. Are you saying you placed the crossovers in the dash and tapped the OEM tweeter wiring to feed the crossovers, then ran new speaker wire from the crossover to the woofer and tweeter? Nothing wrong with that; I just assumed there wasn't really room in the dash for that and most people were mounting crossovers in the doors, tapping the woofer OEM wiring.
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I missed that, good catch.
Anyone with a non-B&O system has a funky factory setup with a simple Y split from the RF and LF speaker outputs that splits in the lower edge of the dash and goes to the door and tweeter.
People should run new wire to the tweeter and install the crossover. It can go right before the line going into the door, or you can actually put it in the door and then feed your new tweeter line from it back through the door grommet, up to the dash for the tweeter.
_take a breath_
B&O is completely different, it has separate lines (it's bi-amped), and has a factory electronic crossover on both. *However* if a person with a non-B&O factory system is also planning to use an amp that has electronic crossovers to bi-amp, they would need to run a separate line for the tweeter and not use any passive crossovers that come with their components. the factory speaker line for the door is fine, it doesn't matter that the factory tweeter wire is no longer used (as long as it doesn't short!).
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