OPT7 light harness

[k.code]

This product says it is not compatible with the hybrid platform. Can someone explain to me like I'm five, why this product wouldn't work with my Hybrid?

or if someone knows of a plug and play third brake light option, shoot it my way.

https://www.opt-7.com/products/opt7...024-ford-maverick?_pos=1&_sid=4ebc11d18&_ss=r

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[Waterick]

I'm just guessing: but I bet they didn't test it on a hybrid, so will not guarantee it will work. I too, see no reason why it should not.

 

[Carlitos_92]

Have you tried reaching out to OPT7 directly and asking them to explain it like you're 65?

 

[Sticks]

I think it's a disgrace that this product is still on the market with such a serious safety concern.

There was a thread on here from the guy that originally tested the product for OPT7, but he's since been banned. In that now-deleted thread, the light appeared to only work correctly if you switch your tail bulbs to LEDs that draw less power than the OEM halogens. With the OEM halogen bulbs, the additional load of the bar would occasionally cause the BCM to think something was wrong with the brake lights, and it would turn off the brake lights to prevent an electrical fire. Obviously, that's a big issue if you don't want someone to rear end you.

But to answer your question: the powertrain is irrelevant, and so is BLIS.

 

[Hot Runr Guy]

I think it's a disgrace that this product is still on the market with such a serious safety concern.

Maybe that's why it's marked down to $26,,,,,,,,

HRG

 

[CarbonGrayFX4]

I actually just purchased this harness to use with the Putco 48" Blade. The harness itself is okay, connections are good, wire size is adequate.
I checked for continuity between the male, female connectors and the 4 pin and reverse wire. Running and reverse checked good, the two turn pins had continuity between the male, female but open to the 4 pin connector. I opened up the harness until I found both left and right stop,turn wires have what I assume is a resistor wired in series with the 4 pin outputs. I am going to cut the resistor out and resplice.
I am going to power the Putco driver with a constant 12v from the flexbed 12v outlet so power overload of the FETs should not be an issue. I am still waiting on delivery of the Blade to put my theory to the test but I am pretty sure it will work. I bought the Blade new/open box on Ebay for $150 and the harness for $25. If everything works out I should have what amounts to the Ford accessory tailgate light ( no longer available) for under $200. I can take pictures of the install if anyone is interested.

 

[Dave O]

I actually just purchased this harness to use with the Putco 48" Blade. The harness itself is okay, connections are good, wire size is adequate.
I checked for continuity between the male, female connectors and the 4 pin and reverse wire. Running and reverse checked good, the two turn pins had continuity between the male, female but open to the 4 pin connector. I opened up the harness until I found both left and right stop,turn wires have what I assume is a resistor wired in series with the 4 pin outputs. I am going to cut the resistor out and resplice.
I am going to power the Putco driver with a constant 12v from the flexbed 12v outlet so power overload of the FETs should not be an issue. I am still waiting on delivery of the Blade to put my theory to the test but I am pretty sure it will work. I bought the Blade new/open box on Ebay for $150 and the harness for $25. If everything works out I should have what amounts to the Ford accessory tailgate light ( no longer available) for under $200. I can take pictures of the install if anyone is interested.

Very interested in the results

 

[CarbonGrayFX4]

Very interested in the results

I will report back, My Putco Blade is scheduled to arrive tomorrow. Just to be clear I am installing on an Ecoboost XLT, no BLISS. My results may not translate.

 

[Hot Runr Guy]

I will report back, My Putco Blade is scheduled to arrive tomorrow. Just to be clear I am installing on an Ecoboost XLT, no BLISS. My results may not translate.

Are you saying the Putco "Blade" has a built-in driver that needs a 12V DC connection? I can't find written instructions to verify a wiring scheme.

HRG

 

[cyberdog]

The reported issue may relate to one of the recalls, and an issue using other similar harnesses with the Putco Blade. There are threads where the taillight (running, NOT brake/turn) would deactivate, almost always on the driver side, when the Putco Blade was attached. - Apparently the workaround ended up being powering the units from a 12v source, and not drawing through the taillight wiring, if memory serves correctly. (That discussion was a good two years ago, if not longer).

One of our recalls for 22/23 was directly related to one or both taillights turning off due to the BCM believing there was a short, or other condition. Recall Issue 24S27/24V293, where the BCM was incorrectly calibrated, and may falsely detect a current overload on one or both taillamp assemblies. (Again, this only affected running lights, and not turn/brake illumination).

 

[CarbonGrayFX4]

Are you saying the Putco "Blade" has a built-in driver that needs a 12V DC connection? I can't find written instructions to verify a wiring scheme.

HRG

To the best of my understanding the Putco Blade can either be wired to share the tailight stop/turn, park and reverse lamp FETs or it can be wired with it's own ACC 12v circuit, in which case it acts as a power relay with the tailight FETs acting as triggers rather than load switches. I believe the original Ford accessory plug and play kit used the tailight FETs as load switches causing overload conditions, especially if the factory incandescent lamps were still being used in the tailight housing. This would account for the reports of tailights not working at random and only on one side. The side the Blade was wired to, no doubt.

This is probably the reason Ford pulled the kit from their website. I don't really understand why they did because the solution is so simple. Power the Blade from the prewired 12v outlets that are literally right there at the tailgate. Putco's directions suggest pulling the +pos all the way to the battery or battery junction box which would be a pain in the butt.

This is my working theory after many hours of research. I will know for sure when my Blade arrives. I already have the OPT7 harness ready to go, more or less.

 

[CarbonGrayFX4]

The reported issue may relate to one of the recalls, and an issue using other similar harnesses with the Putco Blade. There are threads where the taillight (running, NOT brake/turn) would deactivate, almost always on the driver side, when the Putco Blade was attached. - Apparently the workaround ended up being powering the units from a 12v source, and not drawing through the taillight wiring, if memory serves correctly. (That discussion was a good two years ago, if not longer).

One of our recalls for 22/23 was directly related to one or both taillights turning off due to the BCM believing there was a short, or other condition. Recall Issue 24S27/24V293, where the BCM was incorrectly calibrated, and may falsely detect a current overload on one or both taillamp assemblies. (Again, this only affected running lights, and not turn/brake illumination).

I should have read your post before I posted. I basically just repeated everything. I have a good feeling I will be able to get everything to work after modifying the OPT7 harness. The harness itself looks to be quality. The reported issues and low ratings are probably due to whatever OPT7 wired in series with the stop/turn wires. I haven't cut it open yet. Most likely a resistor but it could be a diode or something else.

 

[CarbonGrayFX4]

Are you saying the Putco "Blade" has a built-in driver that needs a 12V DC connection? I can't find written instructions to verify a wiring scheme.

HRG

The driver/relay is external not built-in, per say. It is probably very similar in operation to the Curt 4 pin trailer connector wiring harness relay box except the output voltage is probably not the same. The Curt would output 12v while the Blade driver probably outputs whatever voltage the Blade operates at.

 

[Hot Runr Guy]

The driver/relay is external not built-in, per say. It is probably very similar in operation to the Curt 4 pin trailer connector wiring harness relay box except the output voltage is probably not the same. The Curt would output 12v while the Blade driver probably outputs whatever voltage the Blade operates at.

Thanks!

HRG

 

[BlueSpec1]

Took some amp readings on a Putco 48" and 18" Pair.
I've had the 48" sitting awhile and then decided I'll use the 18" Pair instead.

48" on a 12V battery going thru Putco controller (the lightbar is sitting in the foam packing)
LH+RH LEDs On. +12 line into the controller 1.6A. 0 Amps on the YL, GN into the controller.

Reverse White LEDs On. +12 line into the controller 1.4A. 0 Amps on the White into the controller.

It appears the LED controller is pulse width modulating and regulating the current to the LEDs.
Running a Putco 48" direct from 12V, LH RED LEDs is 4.55 Amps

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