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Oil change schedule / interval? Synthetic oil?

II Kings 9:20

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Yes indeed - you are spot on with the full synthetic used too early. The engine in a way is over protected and the rings don’t fully seat. Your reflections are further proof and I have followed the rule of letting the oem oil do its job - then switch to a quality synthetic.
Best of luck with your new ride 🇺🇸✔
Honda does not recommend early oil changes and I read about "break in " oil they use.

Some cars come with full synthetic at day one. I guess they never break in. In my opinion based on heat and cold testing, synthetic blend is inadequate especially for a turbo. I won't use it, you just don't save enough money.

I'm leaning toward 5,000 miles with the Mav for break in and of course will install the drain bolt magnet and filter magnet as soon as I pull into the garage. I did that with the '21 Rogue I picked up 5 days ago.
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If I some share experience about oil schedule Any car engine requires oil, but not just any oil will serve. To ensure a long service life, modern engines are designed and built to demanding standards and require oils that match very strict industry and Original equipment manufacturer's regulations. Your new-car warranty could be invalidated if you don't use the appropriate sort of oil and keep track of it.
 

GaryHoosier

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Technically TBN is mg KOH/g KOH would normally be considered a salt or Lewis Acid (electron pair donor) it is a specific additive left remaining which will neutralize the TAN. Theoretically, so long as the TBN is over 0, TAN is 0. But that’s only in an ideal world (which we ain’t in)

AN is meaningless when paired with TBN, rather it should be TAN.
...'sure wish folks (in all venues, not just here) would stop relying on acronyms so much. It's just lazy.
Not everyone can understand Acronym-ish.
 

Maverick2022XL

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Since I have points on the Ford pass, enough for about 3 oil changes, the initial ones will be done along with the multi point inspection and tire rotations by the dealer. At least while the truck is still under warranty I'll be having the changes done by the dealer even after my points are used up at about 5000 mile intervals based on how I drive the truck. Once it is outside the warranty period I'll so it myself. Depending the mileage it will be either the regular or high mileage Walmart special oil, weight and viscosity as recommended in the book and Fram oil filters like I've been using for years now on my other vehicles with no issues.
 

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Maverick2022XL

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Honda does not recommend early oil changes and I read about "break in " oil they use.

Some cars come with full synthetic at day one. I guess they never break in. In my opinion based on heat and cold testing, synthetic blend is inadequate especially for a turbo. I won't use it, you just don't save enough money.

I'm leaning toward 5,000 miles with the Mav for break in and of course will install the drain bolt magnet and filter magnet as soon as I pull into the garage. I did that with the '21 Rogue I picked up 5 days ago.
What I was told by the people in the parts department where I bring the truck for service is Ford ships new vehicles from the factory with a special oil designed for the break in period. I don't know about overall lubrication but synthetic oils do run cleaner than non synthetic. My take is if you don't keep up on maintenance and plan to keep the vehicle for many years use synthetic. If you do keep up on maintenance it shouldn't matter which as long as you periodically run some sort of engine cleaner like seafoam to breakdown the sludge buildup.
 

II Kings 9:20

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What I was told by the people in the parts department where I bring the truck for service is Ford ships new vehicles from the factory with a special oil designed for the break in period. I don't know about overall lubrication but synthetic oils do run cleaner than non synthetic. My take is if you don't keep up on maintenance and plan to keep the vehicle for many years use synthetic. If you do keep up on maintenance it shouldn't matter which as long as you periodically run some sort of engine cleaner like seafoam to breakdown the sludge buildup.
Did they mention what the breakin period is. 1k, 3k, 5k??

Good point on cleaner synthetic oils.

Heat and coke buildup on the turbo shaft bearing is reduced significantly with synthetic oil.

I use synthetic on all cars even if the non turbo cars can get by without it.

I never extend intervals just because I'm running synthetic. The additional cost is minimal.

Costco has Kirkland full synthetic oil for $12.50 per 5qt jug. It is the same oil as Amazon Basics and SuperTech at Walmart. Any of these are better than any conventional oil and cheaper. They actually performed well in the oil challenge test. Overrated Mobil 1 finished mid pack. Nothing special.

Seafoam and Techron etc work great for cleaning the fuel system but direct injection (Maverick?) engines have gas injected below the intake valve and fuel additives never touch the valves. Carbon build up is an issue for some cars. 10-15 years ago, Audis had major issue and required cylinder head removal and they used crushed walnut shells to blast clean the valves. Seafoam put into the intake manifold should help this but most manufacturers have addressed this and it's not usually necessary.
 
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Brian_J

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Did they mention what the breakin period is. 1k, 3k, 5k??

Good point on cleaner synthetic oils.

Heat and coke buildup on the turbo shaft bearing is reduced significantly with synthetic oil.

I use synthetic on all cars even if the non turbo cars can get by without it.

I never extend intervals just because I'm running synthetic. The additional cost is minimal.

Costco has Kirkland full synthetic oil for $12.50 per 5qt jug. It is the same oil as Amazon Basics and SuperTech at Walmart. Any of these are better than any conventional oil and cheaper. They actually performed well in the oil challenge test. Overrated Mobil 1 finished mid pack. Nothing special.
Link to test?
 

II Kings 9:20

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Link to test?
Based on this confirmation and my engineer neighbor who is a bigger nut than me, my go to oil is Pennzoil Platinum. I've been using Plat for the last 5-6 years. Amsoil is slightly better.
 

Maverick2022XL

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Did they mention what the breakin period is. 1k, 3k, 5k??

Good point on cleaner synthetic oils.

Heat and coke buildup on the turbo shaft bearing is reduced significantly with synthetic oil.

I use synthetic on all cars even if the non turbo cars can get by without it.

I never extend intervals just because I'm running synthetic. The additional cost is minimal.

Costco has Kirkland full synthetic oil for $12.50 per 5qt jug. It is the same oil as Amazon Basics and SuperTech at Walmart. Any of these are better than any conventional oil and cheaper. They actually performed well in the oil challenge test. Overrated Mobil 1 finished mid pack. Nothing special.

Seafoam and Techron etc work great for cleaning the fuel system but direct injection (Maverick?) engines have gas injected below the intake valve and fuel additives never touch the valves. Carbon build up is an issue for some cars. 10-15 years ago, Audis had major issue and required cylinder head removal and they used crushed walnut shells to blast clean the valves. Seafoam put into the intake manifold should help this but most manufacturers have addressed this and it's not usually necessary.
No on the exact breakin period but from what I've read it is the first 500 miles now with new cars/trucks. Just drive the truck normally and no towing during that period. As far as the direct injection this should do the trick for cleaning them without disassembly.
 
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II Kings 9:20

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BREAKING-IN
Your vehicle requires a break-in period. For the first 1,000 mi (1,600 km), avoid driving at high speeds, heavy braking, aggressive shifting or using your vehicle to tow. During
this time, your vehicle may exhibit some unusual driving characteristics.
That's generally the rule of thumb for most cars. Sounds good for the Mav.
 
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II Kings 9:20

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Finally a factual response instead of a guess.
Thanks for the info. Helpful especially for those who are waiting for a vehicle and manual.

I generally go by the manual and the Ford people are way smarter than me but there's no way I'm using a blend oil.
Only full synthetic for my vehicles.
There is zero advantage to use a blend, not even cost because some synthetics are cheaper than blend. Top rated Pennzoil Platinum full synthetic is 2 bucks cheaper than Motorcraft blend at Walmart.
 

II Kings 9:20

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No on the exact breakin period but from what I've read it is the first 500 miles now with new cars/trucks. Just drive the truck normally and no towing during that period. As far as the direct injection this should do the trick for cleaning them without disassembly.
Great video and this is how DI engines need to be done. How often as a routine job? 10, 20, 50K miles??
 

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This applies to a 2.0L ecoboost engine, hybrids maybe a different conclusion.

So I did some researching on what oil to use and my conclusion is unless it is a climate issue is stick with a 5W-30 oil. Specifically the Walmart full synthetic Super Tech oil.

That is the short answer.
Long answer after brain cell loss and bruises on my head after banging it against the wall along with glazed eyes researching oil standards this is why.

First since this is my first rodeo with Direct Injection engines I did some research on them and came across this video.



The main suggestions that they recommend for those that don't have a long attention span and seat restraints for oil issues is add an oil catch can, use fuel injector cleaner more often and use oil that has a NOACK evaporation level of 7 or less.

After trying to research that and almost killing myself trying to sort through the BS I'll cut to the chase and hopefully save another life or 2 and say anything 5W - 30 should meet that threshold if it is full synthetic. I don't think it is overly important since build up or not cleaning sludge buildup more regularly is the simpler solution instead of hang wringing over NOACK evaporation ratings.

So now to what Ford recommends.
The book says 5w-30 blended synthetic part# X0-5W30-Q1SP

So my next question was is Motorcraft oil any better than Walmart's Super Tech.

Looking here.
https://www.motorcraft.com/us/en_us...oil/sae-5w-30-synthetic-blend-motor-oils.html

They go on about a Ford motor spec WSS-M2C946-B1
So what does that relate to other motor specs or Ford so I found this.
https://www.oilspecifications.org/ford.php

It lists every spec except for this. So let's go to the MSDS
https://www.motorcraft.com/content/...l/Product-Data-Sheet-5W30-Synthetic-Blend.pdf

Okay now we are getting somewhere
API Service GF5 / SN
That also applies to their full synthetic 5W-30 oils

So what does that mean?
http://www.pqiamerica.com/apiserviceclass.htm
Their service number is not current since they list SN-Plus which took effect 2017. More than that Direct Injection engines are more susceptible to what is called pre ignition. SN-Plus is supposed to be formulated with that in mind so you'd think Ford and in turn Motorcraft would be formulating and recommending engine oil that is to that spec especially for a newer vehicle like anything made after 2017 that has a DI engine like the Maverick.

So lets look at the GF rating.
https://www.api.org/products-and-se...categories-and-classifications/oil-categories
GF5 was obsolete after May 21. Oil is probably fine for the Maverick and still acceptable for older vehicles but the fact of the matter is either they haven't updated their MSDS sheets or Ford is recommending oil that is and was considered obsolete for a vehicle that they didn't start producing until after May of 2021.

Will this cause the engine to blow up, probably not and will Motorcraft reformulate their oils to the newer specs., most definitely it is only question of when not if unless they already did and haven't updated their data sheets.

So lets go to something cheaper and more widely available. Walmart's Super Tech full synthetic oil.
The API Service is GF6A / SP

They are up to date unlike Motorcraft and cheaper.
So what about SP rating
https://kendallmotoroil.com/news/your-quick-guide-to-the-ilsac-gf-6-and-api-sp-motor-oil-standards/
Key statement
" API SP will be fully backward-compatible with previous API service categories, including API SN PLUS, SN, SM, SL or SJ."

That means it should be good for a Direct Injection engine unlike Motorcraft oil that is recommended in the book.

And for some background on Super Tech oil.
https://mechanicbase.com/reviews/supertech-engine-oil-review/

If Warren Oil makes it to industry standards, unless those standards are no good the oil should be fine for a Maverick.
 
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73bluebronco

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So I did some researching on what oil to use and my conclusion is unless it is a climate issue is stick with a 5W-30 oil. Specifically the Walmart full synthetic Super Tech oil.

That is the short answer.
Long answer after brain cell loss and bruises on my head after banging it against the wall along with glazed eyes researching oil standards this is why.

First since this is my first rodeo with Direct Injection engines I did some research on them and came across this video.



The main suggestions that they recommend for those that don't have a long attention span and seat restraints for oil issues is add an oil catch can, use fuel injector cleaner more often and use oil that has a NOACK evaporation level of 7 or less.

After trying to research that and almost killing myself trying to sort through the BS I'll cut to the chase and hopefully save another life or 2 and say anything 5W - 30 should meet that threshold if it is full synthetic. I don't think it is overly important since build up or not cleaning sludge buildup more regularly is the simpler solution instead of hang wringing over NOACK evaporation ratings.

So now to what Ford recommends.
The book says 5w-30 blended synthetic part# X0-5W30-Q1SP

So my next question was is Motorcraft oil any better than Walmart's Super Tech.

Looking here.
https://www.motorcraft.com/us/en_us...oil/sae-5w-30-synthetic-blend-motor-oils.html

They go on about a Ford motor spec WSS-M2C946-B1
So what does that relate to other motor specs or Ford so I found this.
https://www.oilspecifications.org/ford.php

It lists every spec except for this. So let's go to the MSDS
https://www.motorcraft.com/content/...l/Product-Data-Sheet-5W30-Synthetic-Blend.pdf

Okay now we are getting somewhere
API Service GF5 / SN
That also applies to their full synthetic 5W-30 oils

So what does that mean?
http://www.pqiamerica.com/apiserviceclass.htm
Their service number is not current since they list SN-Plus which took effect 2017. More than that Direct Injection engines are more susceptible to what is called pre ignition. SN-Plus is supposed to be formulated with that in mind so you'd think Ford and in turn Motorcraft would be formulating and recommending engine oil that is to that spec especially for a newer vehicle like anything made after 2017 that has a DI engine like the Maverick.

So lets look at the GF rating.
https://www.api.org/products-and-se...categories-and-classifications/oil-categories
GF5 was obsolete after May 21. Oil is probably fine for the Maverick and still acceptable for older vehicles but the fact of the matter is either they haven't updated their MSDS sheets or Ford is recommending oil that is and was considered obsolete for a vehicle that they didn't start producing until after May of 2021.

Will this cause the engine to blow up, probably not and will Motorcraft reformulate their oils to the newer specs., most definitely it is only question of when not if unless they already did and haven't updated their data sheets.

So lets go to something cheaper and more widely available. Walmart's Super Tech full synthetic oil.
The API Service is GF6A / SP

They are up to date unlike Motorcraft and cheaper.
So what about SP rating
https://kendallmotoroil.com/news/your-quick-guide-to-the-ilsac-gf-6-and-api-sp-motor-oil-standards/
Key statement
" API SP will be fully backward-compatible with previous API service categories, including API SN PLUS, SN, SM, SL or SJ."

That means it should be good for a Direct Injection engine unlike Motorcraft oil that is recommended in the book.

And for some background on Super Tech oil.
https://mechanicbase.com/reviews/supertech-engine-oil-review/

If Warren Oil makes it to industry standards, unless those standards are no good the oil should be fine for a Maverick.
Nice breakdown. As long as the oil used meets or exceeds the "ford standard" it should be fine, as far as overall performance. I know that for the hybrid it says I need to be using the WSS-M2C962-A1 which corresponds to https://www.fcsdchemicalsandlubricants.com/Products/Details?cid=70&pid=474 (happens to fall into the GF-6 and API SP/SN+ categories. We have to remember that some of these specs have nothing to do with physical performance of the lubricant, but which types of seal materials or other components with which the oil may come into contact with. Just like ZDDP or sulfur phosphorus additives that help with pressure and wear, these additives can become aggressive towards specific materials in the right conditions (anyone that has had to rebuild a worm drive and found that the bronze gear looks like it was eaten by something, that was the extreme pressure additives eating the gear).

So yes, use whatever oil you want, just make sure that it meets the applicable standard for your vehicle.
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