My first audio mod, be gentle

[The Cyber Orange Guy.]

This evening, I found a few minutes to review the wiring for my subwoofer. For ease of installation, I’ll be going with the high-level input mode, tying into the rear speakers. I believe I have what I need to get the job done but wanted to pose some questions for final conformation.

• Speaker wire colors:
  • Right Rear (passenger side) Green Violet and Gray
  • Left Rear (driver’s side) Gray Violet and Brown Green
• Which are the negatives?
• What gauge wire is recommended for making the speaker – subwoofer connection?
• The wiring diagram calls for a connection between the subwoofer and an accessory switched power source. It only shows a single positive wire (no separate ground). I realize I could go to a fuse tap at the interior fuse panel (3 or 6). I have a XLT with the luxury package. That gives me USB and 120V power ports on the rear of the center console. I believe they are on an accessory circuit not constant. Is there any reason I can’t tap into the USB’s wiring.
• Am I correct that this wire turns the sub off when the ignition is not switched on?

What am I forgetting?

Not sure, but i think the problem is that you need a remote from the radio that way when you turn off the radio it also shut the amp.

I mean you can use from other place, but then the amp gonna be on while the accessory is running regarles of the radio, and i don't think that's what you want.

Never install on a car so new, but i thing the logic is the same, please if I'm wrong someone please clarify it.

Verify, some amps that have high imput (straight from the radio speakers output) don't need a remote and go on automatically the radio goes on.

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[Ryom]

What was the tech’s reasoning?

Dementia. And/or malicious ignorance.

According to Crutchfield the hybrid power system doesn't like a high draw load. This may be the reasoning behind the Ford tech's warning as well.

Hybrid note
A hybrid's gas-electric hybrid powertrain makes upgrading the stereo a little more complicated. As you might expect, hybrid Mavericks contain some very sensitive electronics, so here are a couple of things to keep in mind:

• Be sure to only use a multi-meter when testing wires, and NEVER use a test light to test wires in this vehicle. Doing so could cause some serious (by which we mean dangerous and expensive) damage.
• A hybrid is not the car to choose if you want to build a massively powerful audio system. The thirsty current draw of a high-powered stereo is not a good thing for the hybrid system, so don't exceed a 30-amp current draw or 350-watt RMS power rating.

There are aftermarket harnesses that will tap into the stock headunit for adding amplifiers: https://catalog.pac-audio.com/catalog/amplifier-integration-harness/lphfd31

 

[RonFLA]

Nice job. More of a Chopper than a Rocker I see!

 

[Carlitos_92]

According to Crutchfield the hybrid power system doesn't like a high draw load. This may be the reasoning behind the Ford tech's warning as well.

Yeah, that Crutchfield commentary has been discussed before. That line of reasoning could be why the Ford tech said what he said, but it is pretty easy to stay under 350W RMS. The "800W" sub OP has got is really closer to 200W.

 

[AbnRgr]

Alright, the Crutchfield comment has me concerned. I guess I need to go through the archive and see what is there.

 

[CurtisB]

The thing to be aware of is that the Hybrids (Maverick) tend to stay active up to 75 minutes after you shut down and leave your truck. It clicks, clacks and buzzes if you have the app. As a result, you will have your amp on long after you shut down the truck.

My solution was to install my own on/off switch. Yeah, its a pain, but when I leave the truck, NONE of my aftermarket set up is draining the battery.

 

[AbnRgr]

The thing to be aware of is that the Hybrids (Maverick) tend to stay active up to 75 minutes after you shut down and leave your truck. It clicks, clacks and buzzes if you have the app. As a result, you will have your amp on long after you shut down the truck.

My solution was to install my own on/off switch. Yeah, its a pain, but when I leave the truck, NONE of my aftermarket set up is draining the battery.

Would I have to switch the positive connection to the battery, or do I have an option of switching the wire going to the accessory fused positive source?

 

[CurtisB]

Would I have to switch the positive connection to the battery, or do I have an option of switching the wire going to the accessory fused positive source?

I wound up wiring my 10"powered woofer and a 300watt app off my 12v battery and used ground at wall behind the seat. I also did the high connection from both amps to the speakers. Pain in the rear. Splice, dice, chop, then cry. After doing all that hard work, I found out there is an actual harness that plugs into stock head unit and has low-input connectors!! Here is a picture of the switches. I installed them at my seat.

 

[AbnRgr]

I said this was my first time., but still I feel foolish for having to ask. I’m completing the installation of my ST800 subwoofer and amp combo by Seventour. All I have left is securing the wires coming from where I tapped into the rear speaker wires on both sides to the unit itself (high-level install). I am using paired 16ga strand wire for those runs. I had assumed that the stripped ends of the wire would be pushed in to the appropriate slot on the unit’s plastic junction box and probably secured by some type of spring clip. That seems not to be the case. What am I missing? Should I be using a smaller gage wire? Help!

 

[Ryom]

I said this was my first time., but still I feel foolish for having to ask. I’m completing the installation of my ST800 subwoofer and amp combo by Seventour. All I have left is securing the wires coming from where I tapped into the rear speaker wires on both sides to the unit itself (high-level install). I am using paired 16ga strand wire for those runs. I had assumed that the stripped ends of the wire would be pushed in to the appropriate slot on the unit’s plastic junction box and probably secured by some type of spring clip. That seems not to be the case. What am I missing? Should I be using a smaller gage wire? Help!

There's usually an adapter that plugs into the high-level connector on the amp, check your box or see if it's an add-on you need to purchase separately. They look like below:
https://www.amazon.com/speaker-level-input-harness/s?k=speaker+level+input+harness

You can try a high-level input to RCA converter and go to the regular inputs if you don't have the adapter or it's pricier than it needs to be: https://www.amazon.com/KISLOC-2-Channel-Speaker-Adapter-Converter/dp/B00I4EF1BC/

 

[AbnRgr]

There's usually an adapter that plugs into the high-level connector on the amp, check your box or see if it's an add-on you need to purchase separately. They look like below:
https://www.amazon.com/speaker-level-input-harness/s?k=speaker+level+input+harness

You can try a high-level input to RCA converter and go to the regular inputs if you don't have the adapter or it's pricier than it needs to be: https://www.amazon.com/KISLOC-2-Channel-Speaker-Adapter-Converter/dp/B00I4EF1BC/

BINGO! That was what I was missing. The instructions with this unit are sorrily lacking. Other than basic wiring diagrams for the high and low level installation options, there is not much to them. I have the wiring adaptor. Since there was no mention of it, or it being called out in the wiring diagram, I had assumed incorrectly that the piece was associated with the low level option. I should be able to complete the project tomorrow assuming the weather cooperates.. Ryom, thank you.

 

[AbnRgr]

I’m told the second time will be easier. This evening, I completed the last of the wiring tasks associated with installing my subwoofer and amplifier combo. All I have left is to clean up the wiring at my mounting board and under the rear seat. As this was my first, I’m not sure what to expect from the unit. Clearly the available volume is significantly louder than without. I found I have to turn the independent bass volume remote controller toward max to hear the bass boom-boom I was expecting. I still need to take it out of the highway for a trial over road noise.

I wired the unit to an accessory fused circuit at the rear of the center console. Everything lights up at the turn of the ignition key. When I turn the key to off the ambient light surrounding the speaker goes out immediately. A single LED spot marked as the power indicator remains on. First thing in the morning, I’ll see if it starts up, or if I was draining the battery overnight. If so, a switch will be in order. More to follow. My thanks to all with answering my nob questions and especially DrNoobNStein whose post on installing a subwoofer using the rear speakers motivated me to take on the challenge. Photos to follow tomorrow.

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