Maverick Keys reprogram?

[ChopperPilot6]

So I just got my truck back from the dealership after having all the recalls finally accomplished and now bizarrely both of my key fobs don’t work. Have any of you had this happen after the recalls? And does anyone know how to reprogram the keys? The dealership is far away and it’s a pain for me to find the time to go there just for this.

I’ve already looked up a few videos about how to do this but they all see you need 2 functioning key fobs to program a third key. Neither of my keys work now.

Sponsored

 

[jphii]

@Redneck Garage

 

[OleFordGuy]

Make dealer fix it

 

[Ozarkbeard]

AFAIK, unlike adding an additional fob, you cannot do it.

 

[ShadowBlack XL440]

Make dealer fix it

Request that the dealer's service tech come to you to fix what they broke.

 

[White Thunder]

So I just got my truck back from the dealership after having all the recalls finally accomplished and now bizarrely both of my key fobs don’t work. Have any of you had this happen after the recalls? And does anyone know how to reprogram the keys? The dealership is far away and it’s a pain for me to find the time to go there just for this.

I’ve already looked up a few videos about how to do this but they all see you need 2 functioning key fobs to program a third key. Neither of my keys work now.

I know you said you had far to go, but seems like the dealer should take care of that.

 

[Bwicka]

Yes they should send a tech or locksmith.person will need to have fdrs,a dealer subscription service from ford to program .
I am just wondering how you got home if key did not work ?
Is this an xl or xlt with a mechanical key?
If so I would check battery in fob if you just lost door lock function.

 

[CTYankee]

I am just wondering how you got home if key did not work ?

I actually have the same problem. Both fobs stopped working after recall service. When I picked up the truck, it was unlocked so I didn't use the fob. I park in my garage so don't lock it there, either. Then I made a run to Home Depot and discovered the fob didn't work when I tried to lock it in the parking lot. I have an appointment this coming Friday with a different dealer to correct the problem.

 

[HeyBales]

So a good transponder on the key is already known by the system, or the truck should not have started. If both keys work it sounds like the system didn't loose track of the transponder codes.
Actually opening a locked alarmed cab should have set the alarm off if transponder not recognized.
(just had a new key cut last night, tested that before I programmed the new non-wireless key - refuse to start and warning of alarm about to fire)

Sounds like that part is fine, it's the wireless aspect.

Like the fob not linked, or a setting is wrong to allow the FOB to work.

It's not reprograming the keys as much as it is informing the truck system what keys are allowed. But that probably doesn't need to be done as it trusts those keys.

Their updates may have changed a wireless setting - like to off.
They need to investigate. (unless you can find it in settings 1st)

Don't let them get into recutting keys and redoing ignition, door, tail locks - only mentioning because I could see them going down that wasteful road.

 

[Darnon]

Even though they're integrated into the same key, the Remote Keyless Entry (lock/unlock, etc) and Passive Anti-theft (ignition) are technically separate ID systems.

 

[ChopperPilot6]

Yes they should send a tech or locksmith.person will need to have fdrs,a dealer subscription service from ford to program .
I am just wondering how you got home if key did not work ?
Is this an xl or xlt with a mechanical key?
If so I would check battery in fob if you just lost door lock function.

So they actually had a driver deliver the truck back to me which was nice but it was only because they had to keep the truck beyond the date they reassured me they would have it ready by. It's an XLT with the mechanical key, currently I'm using the keypad to get in most of the time. I can't imagine it's the key's battery because both of my keys suddenly didn't work anymore after they brought the truck back and they were both working fine before I sent it for service.

 

[ChopperPilot6]

So a good transponder on the key is already known by the system, or the truck should not have started. If both keys work it sounds like the system didn't loose track of the transponder codes.
Actually opening a locked alarmed cab should have set the alarm off if transponder not recognized.
(just had a new key cut last night, tested that before I programmed the new non-wireless key - refuse to start and warning of alarm about to fire)

Sounds like that part is fine, it's the wireless aspect.

Like the fob not linked, or a setting is wrong to allow the FOB to work.

It's not reprograming the keys as much as it is informing the truck system what keys are allowed. But that probably doesn't need to be done as it trusts those keys.

Their updates may have changed a wireless setting - like to off.
They need to investigate. (unless you can find it in settings 1st)

Don't let them get into recutting keys and redoing ignition, door, tail locks - only mentioning because I could see them going down that wasteful road.

Hmm.. interesting. So since getting the truck back I've mainly been using the keypad to get in and then starting the truck with the mechanical key (I have an XLT and it doesn't have push button start). Yesterday I did try unlocking the door with the key and it worked but then a warning came up on the dash that the alarm would sound if I didn't start the truck within a few seconds.

I'll definitely try playing with the settings and see if something is amiss there.

 

[ChopperPilot6]

I actually have the same problem. Both fobs stopped working after recall service. When I picked up the truck, it was unlocked so I didn't use the fob. I park in my garage so don't lock it there, either. Then I made a run to Home Depot and discovered the fob didn't work when I tried to lock it in the parking lot. I have an appointment this coming Friday with a different dealer to correct the problem.

Oh wow so it must have something to do with the recall they're performing. They did ask me permission to access the under-rear-bench storage so they could access the battery. I'm guessing they disconnected that and maybe that caused the key issue?

Please if you could l would really appreciate it if you could give an update on what the problem was when you get it back from the dealership.

Thanks

 

[HeyBales]

Hmm.. interesting. So since getting the truck back I've mainly been using the keypad to get in and then starting the truck with the mechanical key (I have an XLT and it doesn't have push button start). Yesterday I did try unlocking the door with the key and it worked but then a warning came up on the dash that the alarm would sound if I didn't start the truck within a few seconds.

I'll definitely try playing with the settings and see if something is amiss there.

Annoyingly the manual is wrong for the way my '24 XLT responds for alarm and keys, same as yours.

If the alarm is armed (by locking with key fob only, NOT by door locks supposedly), then a non-recognized key should setoff alarm when door opened with it (as we both experienced - 10 sec to turn ignition to On). But we both have good keys, or we couldn't start the truck.

If NOT armed (by locking with door), then it shouldn't do that when door unlocked (but I've tested, it does same thing anyway).

My 2 original keys that came with truck have exact same effect fob or door locked. They both require turning ignition to On pretty quickly - which they both do.

When I tested with new key last night, transponder not registered yet - same effect opening door, from locked with fob or door, alarm ready to go off.
When I disengaged alarm with dealer key, and then tried to start with unregistered key.
Failed with message I don't recall, along those lines.

I then did routine to register key, and it started truck. Same issue unlocking doors and setting off alarm though. Oh well, extra safety I supposed.

Manual is wrong - or programming in truck is wrong.

Perhaps with the unworking fobs but good keys - you are at this routine needing to be done, which seems to be standard on most Fords by the number of dealerships that have this info.
I notice it says Run, I can't imagine they really mean starting all their ICE autos that fast/frequent. I'm wondering if they mean to ON really. I'd rather test to that and work.

https://www.metrofordny.com/service/service-and-parts-tips/how-to-program-ford-key-fobs/

Step-by-Step Programming Instructions

1. Close the car doors, then open the driver-side door. Press the UNLOCK button on the driver-side door.
2. Next, turn the ignition from OFF to RUN 8 times. Do this within 10 seconds, making sure the 8th time ends on RUN. When you’ve entered programming mode, the door locks will lock and unlock. (Note: If the doors don’t cycle, turn the key faster. Your car may not have keyless entry if you still can’t get the door locks to cycle.)
3. Press any button on the Ford remote to be programmed. Do this within 8 seconds. The door locks will cycle again to confirm the keyless entry remote is programmed and ready to use.
4. Have a second remote key fob? Again, press any button on the remote within 8 seconds to cycle the door locks. Repeat this step for any additional key fobs.
5. Finally, turn the ignition to OFF. The locks will again cycle to confirm programming is complete.

 

[MakinDoForNow]

So a good transponder on the key is already known by the system, or the truck should not have started. If both keys work it sounds like the system didn't loose track of the transponder codes.
Actually opening a locked alarmed cab should have set the alarm off if transponder not recognized.
(just had a new key cut last night, tested that before I programmed the new non-wireless key - refuse to start and warning of alarm about to fire)

Sounds like that part is fine, it's the wireless aspect.

Like the fob not linked, or a setting is wrong to allow the FOB to work.

It's not reprograming the keys as much as it is informing the truck system what keys are allowed. But that probably doesn't need to be done as it trusts those keys.

Their updates may have changed a wireless setting - like to off.
They need to investigate. (unless you can find it in settings 1st)

Don't let them get into recutting keys and redoing ignition, door, tail locks - only mentioning because I could see them going down that wasteful road.

Possibly the keys were made "passive" like when you leave one in truck get out and lock truck with other fob. Or lock both keys in truck with key pad they are made in active. I do not have manual with me but there is a key pressing sequence to reactivate passive key for use.

Sponsored