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Maverick Hybrid engine break in?

YazYaz

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Does the hybrid need engine break in? I have some 160 miles on it. It drives okay but I'd expect it to be smoother and less noisy!!
thanks.
If you look in your Owner's Manual Index: Breaking-In - Page 278!

Ford Maverick Maverick Hybrid engine break in? Breaking In
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maverickjoe

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I put my first 1k in Honolul, can’t wait to get it out on a REAL interstate in our new place in Rio Rancho, NM (yes,we have an interstate that doesn’t go between states 😂on Oahu)
I have a 23 hybrid XLT and couldn't be happier. I have just over 3000 miles and no problems and average over 40 miles to gallon all the time.
 

Guardian

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My 22 Hybrid Lariat has a touch over 9,000 miles, is quiet,and has never had any issues/problems. I have deliberately used this time period to get myself used to a very different driving experience. The absence of gear shifting,the presence of a "screen" were all new to me! I like my truck a lot.
 

CajunMick

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When I was young, I did rebuilds on engines. The cylinder walls have a chrome like glaze. And uppermost part of cylinders would have slight ridge/groove, where top piston rings stops on upward strokes.

On new engines, cylinder walls hone, sorta rough. During early stages of running, cylinder walls and rings begin wear, seating begins, until cylinder walls get that smooth glaze. And the top piston ring firms new ridge in the cylinder walls.

Having said that, my new vehicles are subjected to acceleration on highways to promote top cylinder wear, or new ridges. I would drive at normal easy cruise then do a brief accelerated run to allow rings/pistons to float higher in cylinders, producing a highest ridge/groove. One must realize the rings in piston ring grooves do flat a bit., and on the non-firing cycle, tend to float upward, higher into the cylinder walls. Doing normalize cruising, driving with brief accelerations on newly hone cylinder will tend to promote wear of the cylinder walls. And a newly set ridge/groove pattern.

I do that to all my new vehicles, execute a normal drive, accelerate style driving in the first early break in time. Also, I’ve been lucky to purchase new vehicles in fall/winter timeline. Cooler ambient prevails, means engine don’t run too hot, which new engines, being tighter, tend to do.

Another issue is piston ring types…some are chrome rings, some are cast rings. Chrome rings are harder, and tends to promote good wear on cast iron cylinder honed walls. Chrome rings are flexible, not easily break. Cast rings are soft, will wear faster in hone cylinders, and not flexible, and can break easier.

Finally, all my vehicles do well, cause over time, I never have to add lube oil between oil changes. Good rings wear and sealing.
 

MetalsGeek

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OK, I attribute noise to cold weather. And I plan to do oil change myself b/w 1500 and 2000.
Already got Mobil 1 Hybrid full syn oil. I guess the best filter is motorcraft 910s. Does s stand for small?
Now and then, RockAuto will have a deal, and you can always find a 5% coupon code online. The FL910S is over $5 each, but I bought a dozen of them at $3.74 a couple months ago. They are not large but still twice the size of the tiny OEM break-in filter. The filter mounts vertically so you can pre-fill it easily with no spills. It's recessed so a band wrench won't work so if you can find one of those cap-style filter wrenches to fit, that might be helpful. You will need about 5.7 qts of 0W-20. The lower cover has 15 screws that take a TP-27 driver although they're not tight so a T-27 will work too. Drain plug has M12-1.75 thread if you're thinking about something like a ValvoMax drain kit. Don't forget to reset the oil life under INFORMATION.
 

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Montana

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When I was young, I did rebuilds on engines. The cylinder walls have a chrome like glaze. And uppermost part of cylinders would have slight ridge/groove, where top piston rings stops on upward strokes.

On new engines, cylinder walls hone, sorta rough. During early stages of running, cylinder walls and rings begin wear, seating begins, until cylinder walls get that smooth glaze. And the top piston ring firms new ridge in the cylinder walls.

Having said that, my new vehicles are subjected to acceleration on highways to promote top cylinder wear, or new ridges. I would drive at normal easy cruise then do a brief accelerated run to allow rings/pistons to float higher in cylinders, producing a highest ridge/groove. One must realize the rings in piston ring grooves do flat a bit., and on the non-firing cycle, tend to float upward, higher into the cylinder walls. Doing normalize cruising, driving with brief accelerations on newly hone cylinder will tend to promote wear of the cylinder walls. And a newly set ridge/groove pattern.

I do that to all my new vehicles, execute a normal drive, accelerate style driving in the first early break in time. Also, I’ve been lucky to purchase new vehicles in fall/winter timeline. Cooler ambient prevails, means engine don’t run too hot, which new engines, being tighter, tend to do.

Another issue is piston ring types…some are chrome rings, some are cast rings. Chrome rings are harder, and tends to promote good wear on cast iron cylinder honed walls. Chrome rings are flexible, not easily break. Cast rings are soft, will wear faster in hone cylinders, and not flexible, and can break easier.

Finally, all my vehicles do well, cause over time, I never have to add lube oil between oil changes. Good rings wear and sealing.
Have you seen any of the tiny engine builds on YT? I got recommended one the other day. Ridiculous cost for those things, but they are so cool. If you like building engines, that is one cool little hobby to pass the time. Everything is miniature lol.

 

Cromag

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The Cold weather really increases the vibration and noise of my hybrid. It's weird not to let a car warm up in cold weather, but you have to drive it to warm it up?
 
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Greendesert

Greendesert

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When I drove the truck today, I noticed that it is a diff kind of noise I am used to being engine - Atkinson. It's noise is diff from my other gdi non-atkinson engine. The latter has a smooth sound. But, Atkinson's valve timing is diff which may seem like a little rough kind of noise. The best I can explain is that when one of the spark plug is slightly going out on the non-atkinson engine and you will feel that subtle sound / noise.
 

TedTX

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Yes the engine can sound loud at times which makes me think my CAT was stolen or that rare engine fire situation could be starting. But it's random. Seems linked to cold and sitting unused for days.
Was definitely worse/common first few winter months. Not frequent enough by first Summer to make me think it fixed itself.
 
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Bear

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I'm old school where I kept it under 45 for the first 100 miles, under 50 until 500 miles and then drove it normally once I reached 1000 miles. Also, I did an oil change on my hybrid.
 
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The Cold weather really increases the vibration and noise of my hybrid. It's weird not to let a car warm up in cold weather, but you have to drive it to warm it up?
If you turn it on and the gas engine doesn't start, just press down on the go pedal to start it. And if you have the heater controls set warm enough, it should continue running.
 

Partsman

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OK, I attribute noise to cold weather. And I plan to do oil change myself b/w 1500 and 2000.
Already got Mobil 1 Hybrid full syn oil. I guess the best filter is motorcraft 910s. Does s stand for small?
The S is for silicone relief valve
 

AutobahnSHO

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Yeah, these motors seem like they run a little rough cold. An early video of two guys pulling a heavy trailer up a mountain in Colorado they noted how 'loud' the engine could be.

I'm not bothered- it's the cheapest car made by Ford and eons ahead of the little beater cars I've driven the last 30yrs...
 
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Greendesert

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I think that is how Atkinson cycle engine sounds. It has little rough sound compared to non Atkinson. My wife's 2022 CRV Hybrid also sounds diff but it is more muted.
Once I know it is normal, I am normal too!
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