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Lug torque specs - Aftermarket wheels and lugs

klutch14u

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I know the factory torque specs are like 148lbs but if you have aftermarket wheels and lugs, does that still apply? Not sure what drives the torque specs, the vehicle/hubs, wheels, lugs, etc? Don't want to crank the hell out of my aftermarket wheels and have bad things happen because that's meant for Ford wheels/lugs.
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Johnkn

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Specs are based on the wheel studs, no change...

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shrek

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I know the factory torque specs are like 148lbs but if you have aftermarket wheels and lugs, does that still apply? Not sure what drives the torque specs, the vehicle/hubs, wheels, lugs, etc? Don't want to crank the hell out of my aftermarket wheels and have bad things happen because that's meant for Ford wheels/lugs.
Wow. Guess I need to read the owners manual. I thought they were like all other FORD cars / Old Rangers. 100Ft Lbs. Glad you said something.
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Darnon

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I have always felt that 148 ft-lbs was a sh1tload of torque for the lug nuts of a "normal" vehicle.
"Feels" probably wouldn't get very far as engineering qualification.
 

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Tom 71 Maverick 24

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Discount tire's web site confirms - 150 ft-lbs. Seems high, but as noted, "seems" isn't an engineering term.

The main thing is, can they be loosened with the lug wrench when you need to change a flat? Because if not, then you need either a longer lug wrench, a stronger person, or they're too tight.
 

MetalsGeek

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"Feels" probably wouldn't get very far as engineering qualification.
LOL - you're right there for sure! It's funny tho, I have a BS in Mechanical Engineering and have been working on cars for 50 years. It's funny how I've generally tended to keep those parts of my brain separate. e.g. I only do engineering calculations on projects I design and build, and not to second guess the design of existing products (like cars). A lifetime of lug nut experience makes me want to break the rules by cleaning and lightly lubricating the threads with anti-seize to prevent galling and corrosion. Of course, this will overstress the studs if you still use full rated torque on them so a bit of reduction there is appropriate. I have never, ever had a lug nut loosen on its own.
FYI, on a distantly related topic from the world of materials science: stainless steel is infamous for galling so if you ever use SS bolts and lock nuts (except nylock nuts) you better liberally apply some anti-seize. Exhaust system fasteners too, of course. But you already knew that...
 

AzureBlueBill

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130 ft/lbs here and nothing has come loose yet. 148 is just a crazy number, IMHO. Even 130 is hella-tight for what's basically a 1/2" bolt. Every other car I've ever owned called for 80-100 ft/lbs on that size lug nut. Your mileage may vary.
 

Darnon

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130 ft/lbs here and nothing has come loose yet. 148 is just a crazy number, IMHO. Even 130 is hella-tight for what's basically a 1/2" bolt. Every other car I've ever owned called for 80-100 ft/lbs on that size lug nut. Your mileage may vary.
9/16" bolt (14mm), so a step larger than most light vehicles that are only utilizing 1/2"/M12.
 

AzureBlueBill

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"Feels" probably wouldn't get very far as engineering qualification.
You know, we never had torque wrenches when I was growing up. Worked on everything from bicylcles to muscle cars to big machine tools. Never had one single torque-related issue, Yes, as unbelievable as it may seem, you can feel how tight things ought to be. But on critical things, you are probably safer using a torque wrench. Especially the way things seem to be nearly stressesd to the breaking point as-built/designed these days.
 

Toy Truck

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I found that after you extend the tire iron that comes with the Maverick to is full length it's longer than my torque wretch so should be able to loosen the wheel nuts. If you're feeling extra weak you can even make the tire iron longer be sliding the rod for lowering the spare tire into the end of it.
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