Looking for help adding subwoofer to B&O system

[pmontone83]

I am looking to install a subwoofer to my B&O system and just wanted to know if what I plan on ordering should work:

AMP: Kicker key 47KEY500.1
LOC: Kicker 46KISLOC2
Bass Knob: Kicker 46CXARCT

I have a JL 10TW3-D4 from my old truck that I plan on using, and I need to get some posi taps just wasn't sure what size wire they are using on the B&O system.

I plan to tap into the front speakers with my LOC and power should be easy to grab since the battery is just below the rear seat. Just wanted to make sure this is the best way to hook everything up as it has been at least 7 years since I have installed a aftermarket stereo in a vehicle.

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[Darnon]

You don't really need the LOC since the Key accepts speaker level input. You could also save yourself two wires and just tap the existing subwoofer for signal.

 

[pmontone83]

OK, thanks for the info. I'll get rid of the LOC.

When I finally get everything should I just unplug the old B&O sub and use the factory plug to my AMP or will unplugging the B&O sub kill the whole system?

 

[kkreit01]

From what I've read (I don't have BO), you may need to add a dummy resistor if you bypass (unplug) any of the factory speakers. Unsure if this applies to the sub also?

 

[colinl]

I have basically this setup and have it spliced into the B&O sub speaker output. The B&O sub is not worth keeping in combination with your 10".

The only thing you need to be aware of is that it does fade with the rear so if you change fade you might need to redo the DSP auto tuning. I think you'll get 350w with your tw3 and you'll probably want to use the higher gain setup files.

 

[Darnon]

From what I've read (I don't have BO), you may need to add a dummy resistor if you bypass (unplug) any of the factory speakers. Unsure if this applies to the sub also?

Maybe if it found all of the speakers open, but I've had the tweeter output open and center/sub unplugged for Key 200.4 tuning without it doing anything strange.

 

[pmontone83]

I fell like this is a stupid question; but on the AMP if I am using the speaker level inputs from the factory sub, does it matter if I only connect them to L (+) & (-) on the AMP or do I need to split them and connect factory sub (-) to both L&R (-) on the AMP and the same for the R?

Also will the AMP turn on with the speaker level inputs or will I need to run a remote wire?

 

[Darnon]

Nah, just one channel should be fine. I'd recommend running a remote wire if only because the infotainment system likes to wake up a lot even during key off and will turn the amp on periodically as a result which might exacerbate deep sleep issues.

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