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Rmnkys

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You have definitely inspired me. I did have a company tell me to use a capacitor to help with the larger current draw when the bass hits, but maybe it won’t be needed. I have a tendency to listen to my music REALLY loud with a lot of bass. 😆
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SuperTux

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Installed a Kicker L7R 10” with a Kicker Key 500.1 last night.

install was pretty straight forward. I used a 6” powersports amp kit and hooked up power and ground right at the battery. I used high level inputs of the key to utilize signal sensing (no need to run a remote wire).

I removed the light switch and mounted the bass knob in the black space. It’s a good location and doesn’t look out of place.

I spend a good amount of time playing with amp settings but ended up using my own vs the auto tune ones.

When mounting the amp to the back wall I used two existing bolts and just elongated 2 mounting holes on the key. I used some aggressive double sided tape on the back side as well and it’s super solid.

Special thanks to Chris at Sound Decisions. After the transaction I had my box in 2 days. High quality and made this install easy.

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Does that speaker grille allow seat to close all the way? I have the ground shaker boxes with the L7T 10" and was debating whether to get the grilles.
 
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SpaceCowboy

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Does that speaker grille allow seat to close all the way? I have the ground shaker boxes with the L7T 10" and was debating whether to get the grilles.
seat sits all the way down and latches
 
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SpaceCowboy

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You have definitely inspired me. I did have a company tell me to use a capacitor to help with the larger current draw when the bass hits, but maybe it won’t be needed. I have a tendency to listen to my music REALLY loud with a lot of bass. 😆
What amp and subwoofers do you plan on running?
 

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Rmnkys

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What amp and subwoofers do you plan on running?
Probably the same setup as you For the sub but add another amp with dsp for the other speakers
kicker key 500.1 and the
Kicker 45L7R102Solo-Baric L7R Series 10" subwoofer with dual 2-ohm voice coil.
This way I can wire it down to 1 ohm and utilize all the power available From the amp.
I have also been thinking about an all in one amp such as the
JL Audio VX1000/5i

VXi Series 5-Channel 100W x 4 + 600W x 1 @2Ohms Class D Car Amplifier with DSP. Could probably use the same sub and could change all the door speakers and use the same amp.
 
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SpaceCowboy

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Probably the same setup as you For the sub but add another amp with dsp for the other speakers
kicker key 500.1 and the
Kicker 45L7R102Solo-Baric L7R Series 10" subwoofer with dual 2-ohm voice coil.
This way I can wire it down to 1 ohm and utilize all the power available From the amp.
I have also been thinking about an all in one amp such as the
JL Audio VX1000/5i

VXi Series 5-Channel 100W x 4 + 600W x 1 @2Ohms Class D Car Amplifier with DSP. Could probably use the same sub and could change all the door speakers and use the same amp.

I assume you’re going to use the Nav TV or PAC Audio piece to integrate with the factory wiring? I assume you’re going to forgo the center speaker? Using two key amps wouldn’t be a bad choice either.

I have my subwoofer at 1 ohm so the 500.1 is outputting the full 500 rms
 

Rmnkys

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I assume you’re going to use the Nav TV or PAC Audio piece to integrate with the factory wiring? I assume you’re going to forgo the center speaker? Using two key amps wouldn’t be a bad choice either.

I have my subwoofer at 1 ohm so the 500.1 is outputting the full 500 rms
Yes, I will be using some type of integration. And yes, no center speaker.
Thanks space cowboy for your great info. I also appreciate the kindness. Sometimes you make a comment on the web, and you get crucified.
 
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SpaceCowboy

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Yes, I will be using some type of integration. And yes, no center speaker.
Thanks space cowboy for your great info. I also appreciate the kindness. Sometimes you make a comment on the web, and you get crucified.
I know all about making comments with scientific backing that upsets someone’s feelings for sure.

I do car audio part time other than my real job. Let me know if you need a hookup.
 

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Where are you running the amp ground to behind the seat? Just wondering if there's an existing ground bolt that people are using.
 
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colinl

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Kicker 45L7R102Solo-Baric L7R Series 10" subwoofer with dual 2-ohm voice coil.
that's a great sub, but you might have some difficulty making an enclosure large enough for even the minimum sealed volume (.66ft3) and even moreso large enough for the ideal sealed volume (1.0ft3).
 

Montana

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But you left the 6x9 in there? You crazy? 😭

lol. Pretty sure that thing is pointless now. I do wish they made a larger enclosure for it for a simple swap to a better one though. My testing with a SKAR 6x9 did not fit. You'd have to get a pretty underwhelming 6x9 to make that solution plug and playable.
 

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Probably the same setup as you For the sub but add another amp with dsp for the other speakers
kicker key 500.1 and the
Kicker 45L7R102Solo-Baric L7R Series 10" subwoofer with dual 2-ohm voice coil.
This way I can wire it down to 1 ohm and utilize all the power available From the amp.
I have also been thinking about an all in one amp such as the
JL Audio VX1000/5i

VXi Series 5-Channel 100W x 4 + 600W x 1 @2Ohms Class D Car Amplifier with DSP. Could probably use the same sub and could change all the door speakers and use the same amp.
Wouldn’t this be too much of a draw on the hybrids electrical system? I remember reading somewhere 350w is really all it can take
Edit: here from Crutchfield https://www.crutchfield.ca/learn/2022-up-ford-maverick.html
 
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SpaceCowboy

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Where are you running the amp ground to behind the seat? Just wondering if there's an existing ground bolt that people are using.
I'm using the factory ground strap that the battery is grounded the chassis with. I believe it was a 13mm bolt. I used a powersports amp kit where it runs the ground and power wire together in loom.
 

UT1104A

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Installed a Kicker L7R 10” with a Kicker Key 500.1 last night.

install was pretty straight forward. I used a 6” powersports amp kit and hooked up power and ground right at the battery. I used high level inputs of the key to utilize signal sensing (no need to run a remote wire).

I removed the light switch and mounted the bass knob in the black space. It’s a good location and doesn’t look out of place.

I spend a good amount of time playing with amp settings but ended up using my own vs the auto tune ones.

When mounting the amp to the back wall I used two existing bolts and just elongated 2 mounting holes on the key. I used some aggressive double sided tape on the back side as well and it’s super solid.

Special thanks to Chris at Sound Decisions. After the transaction I had my box in 2 days. High quality and made this install easy.

IMG_2757.jpeg


IMG_2756.jpeg


IMG_2755.jpeg


IMG_2754.jpeg


IMG_2752.jpeg


IMG_2751.jpeg


IMG_2747.jpeg


IMG_2749.jpeg
Well done!! I love the box. I will be looking to do this in the near future.
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