Hybrid Battery Junction Box -- dufus designed

[AVC]

So what rocket scientist at Ford thought it was brilliant to design the engine bay fuse block (BRB) so that to access the fuses you have to separate it from the main high current battery distro point, which de-powers the entire frickin' BRB so you can't easily troubleshoot, chase parasitic drains, etc? I suppose there is a $100 specialty cable to extend the high current power point to the BRB.

I was going to hotwire the lower console "lighter" socket for always-on power to charge some Bluetooth devices, since Ford can't design a power management system that-reliably-- leaves the accessory sockets on after the key is removed and the truck is locked.

Now I have to stop and build a makeshift extender that can pass 100A+....unless I'm missing something obvious, here?

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[AlsMaverick]

Relax Melvin.

 

[inline_five]

Did you test all the fuses inside the cab to see if any were 12v hot? Also, there are two 12v wires coming in on the bottom, one is 12v hot and the other is keyed hot.

 

[icegradner]

I was going to hotwire the lower console "lighter" socket for always-on power to charge some Bluetooth devices, since Ford can't design a power management system that-reliably-- leaves the accessory sockets on after the key is removed and the truck is locked.

It shuts off if voltage drops below 12.1v, or it's shut off for 45 minutes. If you want a dead battery go for it.

 

[oysterville]

So what rocket scientist at Ford through it was brilliant...

Nothing draws these things out more in my experience than questioning someone else's intelligence.

 

[MakinDoForNow]

So what rocket scientist at Ford through it was brilliant to design the engine bay fuse block (BRB) so that to access the fuses you have to separate it from the main high current battery distro point, which de-powers the entire frickin' BRB so you can't easily troubleshoot, chase parasitic drains, etc? I suppose there is a $100 specialty cable to extend the high current power point to the BRB.

I was going to hotwire the lower console "lighter" socket for always-on power to charge some Bluetooth devices, since Ford can't design a power management system that-reliably-- leaves the accessory sockets on after the key is removed and the truck is locked.

Now I have to stop and build a makeshift extender that can pass 100A+....unless I'm missing something obvious, here?

Someone posted that Ford engineering had their dealer disconnect each module overnight to trace the phantom draw after fully charging battery one night at a time. Finally determined that the TMCU had the problem. It apparently was not properly shutting something off (sometimes???). Seems like he posted a copy of his work order. If I remember right the problem was intermittent???

 

[AVC]

Well, I did the modification to make the lower console cig lighter hot all the time, as I've done on vehicles for 20 years. Charging a 200ma/hr Bluetooth battery, or a 4000ma/hr phone battery for that matter, wont ever be the demise of the hybrid 12v battery. The PCM Is free to put the rest of the vehicle into deep sleep, if needed, but it WILL charge my %#$% bluetooth battery.

If you have a 50w load on this power point 24/7, then this mod isn't for you.

As for the wisdom of putting fuses on the BOTTOM and having to de-power the entire thing to even gaze at them is STUUUUUUPID, on a vehicle. From one engineer to another.

30A fuse (F30) for drivers seat is the source of the ALWAYS HOT power and jumpered to 20A (F32) fuse on the supply side, serving the lower cubby cig lighter.

 

[django24]

Someone posted that Ford engineering had their dealer disconnect each module overnight to trace the phantom draw after fully charging battery one night at a time. Finally determined that the TMCU had the problem. It apparently was not properly shutting something off (sometimes???). Seems like he posted a copy of his work order. If I remember right the problem was intermittent???

I have similar experience of intermittent power on power off on the accessory power source on my hybrid after the engine had been turned off and keys off the ignitión. I have been wondering why it's been doing that but I'm lucky I haven't experienced a dead 12 V bettery even after leaving the truck parked for severas days.

 

[MetalsGeek]

So what rocket scientist at Ford thought it was brilliant to design the engine bay fuse block (BRB) so that to access the fuses you have to separate it from the main high current battery distro point, which de-powers the entire frickin' BRB so you can't easily troubleshoot, chase parasitic drains, etc?

I've had that thought too (including the critical words), and have yet to come up with a valid reason for this design choice. If it had high voltage, I might soften my words a bit. However, for a 12V fuse block I find this approach as frustrating as you do. Chasing parasitic drains by measuring the millivolt drop across a fuse is standard procedure in my world, and Ford really nuked THAT technique. Evil exists!

 

[MakinDoForNow]

I have similar experience of intermittent power on power off on the accessory power source on my hybrid after the engine had been turned off and keys off the ignitión. I have been wondering why it's been doing that but I'm lucky I haven't experienced a dead 12 V bettery even after leaving the truck parked for severas days.

The accessory power can be turned off for several reasons. One is when the 12v soc drops below 12.1v. check manual for others.

 

[Ken L]

There is a fuse position in the interior fuse panel (if remember correctly) # 24 , 20amp and is not used by the Maverick. I used a fuse tap to add an extra usb charger. Drilled a hole bedside the 12v outlet. This outlet has an on/off switch an a pilot led light.
I have checked (looking through the window) after the Maverick has been sitting for several days and pilot light was still on.

Ken

 

[MakinDoForNow]

I've had that thought too (including the critical words), and have yet to come up with a valid reason for this design choice. If it had high voltage, I might soften my words a bit. However, for a 12V fuse block I find this approach as frustrating as you do. Chasing parasitic drains by measuring the millivolt drop across a fuse is standard procedure in my world, and Ford really nuked THAT technique. Evil exists!

There is a 300+ amp fuse on that end of the 12v buss and a 200+ amp fuse at the battery. There are at least three 60 amp fuzes in that fuze block with voltage up to 15.6 (maybe more?). May have some bearing on design choice which probably is to keep most from fiddling with the fuzes. Personally I am starting to consider this as a five year then trade for new vehicle. Maybe a 2-3 year lease item?

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