Hybrid battery cable lug inspect

[Mach 1]

Ray, excellent post, hey if it gets my vehicle better, sign me up.

The cable assembly is not manufactured by ford.

This connection is a very crical, non standard connection because of the materials used.
It looks like a resistance soldering, Aluminum cable to some kind of plated lug.

When i inspected my connection it looked very good, there was obvious flow of metals.
I tugged on it, 50lbs? I pushed it, i swiveled it, bent it, its on there!

But we dont know without going in there and inspecting it. Which is what i would recomend anyone/everyone. Hey if you live in central Texas

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[Mach 1]

Dad, there is no copper from factory, the dealerships are using copper lugs on aluminum cable, big NO NO. Make sure Ford doesnt sneak a copper lug in on you.

I did no repair as i tugged on it and it held strong, the pics show a good flow of metals, so just taped it up and reassembled. I accidently hit a couple of strands of wire at the connection they bent over up to the flow joint instead of breaking loose from the flow joint. So i am 99% sure i have a good joint.

I NEEDED TO KNOW for sure that it was good, and now can put the unknown behind me.

Its fairly easy to inspect. I have my own repair that i am working with a handful of members.

 

[Mach 1]

Skinny, i am going to go with the joint did not flow well, and had minimum mechanical holding, the heat shrink is outrageous thick and tough, it took alot of slicing and dicing to cut thru, i left mine on and wrapped over it. So i could see where alot of the defective ones are making contact by just the heat shrink appling pressure to the connection, then vibration/heat cycles loosen it up and then a failure occurs.

I did PCB wave soldering at one time, have seen where we had mechanical bond but NO electrical bond. I have seen where i did a small pull test held, but then just added another 5 lbs pull and the whole solder joint pulled loose.

I dont think they are all the same joint, with a complicated joint, have to have a tight tolerance on your process, it drifts a little, bingo it doesnt get a good flow but holds enough for operator to install the heat shrink and it makes it further down the assembly line.

They dont even know their process varied, keep making them, if their QC doesnt catch it, then they keep making defective ones. I could believe that the harness manufacturer still doesnt know they are cranking out defective harnesses.

Wow.

I

 

[Dad]

I'm just thrilled to be joining the Ford research and development team, and I only had to pay $35,000 to be accepted.

This is the best post I've ever seen on this forum! Truth bomb!

 

[Dad]

Dad, there is no copper from factory, the dealerships are using copper lugs on aluminum cable, big NO NO. Make sure Ford doesnt sneak a copper lug in on you.

I did no repair as i tugged on it and it held strong, the pics show a good flow of metals, so just taped it up and reassembled. I accidently hit a couple of strands of wire at the connection they bent over up to the flow joint instead of breaking loose from the flow joint. So i am 99% sure i have a good joint.

I NEEDED TO KNOW for sure that it was good, and now can put the unknown behind me.

Its fairly easy to inspect. I have my own repair that i am working with a handful of members.

Again, thanks Randy for your generous support. Great advice.

 

[Mxer97]

Superrrrrr informative post! Hopefully mine arrives soon and I’m able to check it out! Where abouts in Texas are you? I’m N.W. of Houston

 

[Mach 1]

Hill country, central texas, just west of Austin.

Mxer, you getting a hybrid, u will luv it!

Bring it by some time.

 

[Mach 1]

Skinny pic #6 shows the actual joint(camera is great pic S22ultra)
There appears to be great wetting, the wire strands on the bottom are even soldered together. I accidentally hit a couple strands and they bent over rather then pulling loose from joint.
This is a good solder joint and appears it will hold up over time.


https://www.mavericktruckclub.com/forum/threads/hybrid-battery-cable-lug-inspect.20063/

I guess I just learned to cut and paste here, here's the address link to check the battery cable link.

 

[Timothyd]

If you have been waiting to inspect/repair the famed hybrid battery cable lug detachment defect, wait no longer.

There is no reason to sit on the fence, the inspection/repair was not that bad. I was just piddling around looking at the area and getting some ideas on how to approach and repair the lug. Before i knew it i had torn apart the fuse box, disconnected the battery cables, and was on my way to inspect.

Heck i was on it that deep that i asked myself, why dont i just finish the job? So before i knew it, i was slicing the insulation on the cable, with intentions of repairing the solder joint/connection.
This is the back one towards the firewall.

View attachment 66396

So to get to the back battery cable you have to dissconnect 12v battery under seat with 10mm socket, remove the negative cable. Now under hood check 12v connection to ensure its not hot. Next remove 12v battery cable from fuse box, 13mm deep socket.

View attachment 66398

 

[Timothyd]

If you have been waiting to inspect/repair the famed hybrid battery cable lug detachment defect, wait no longer.

There is no reason to sit on the fence, the inspection/repair was not that bad. I was just piddling around looking at the area and getting some ideas on how to approach and repair the lug. Before i knew it i had torn apart the fuse box, disconnected the battery cables, and was on my way to inspect.

Heck i was on it that deep that i asked myself, why dont i just finish the job? So before i knew it, i was slicing the insulation on the cable, with intentions of repairing the solder joint/connection.
This is the back one towards the firewall.

View attachment 66396

So to get to the back battery cable you have to dissconnect 12v battery under seat with 10mm socket, remove the negative cable. Now under hood check 12v connection to ensure its not hot. Next remove 12v battery cable from fuse box, 13mm deep socket.

View attachment 66398

Thanks! Good stuff!

 

[Mach 1]

Thx Tim, please post your fix or shot me a pm.

 

[Timothyd]

I'm just thrilled to be joining the Ford research and development team, and I only had to pay $35,000 to be accepted.

How much for a consultation?

 

[Mach 1]

Right, we are all members, hope it pays off in the end for us.

 

[Signguy]

Dad, good points on the aluminum cable. The formed lug appears to be steel, which is resistance welded to the aluminum cable. I didnt check for sure. I will check and get back with answer.
The inspection was such, i recomend it to all, even if no problem, save a break down, and to increase reliability. I had prepped and was going to fully repair it if needed. I have a different theory on repair.
If you can get a harness thats about the best repair, however they have to tear apart so much to get it done, that was my concern.

Tim, good ideas, i wanted to solder it however, you would have to remove the harness/cable to solder. Theres no room were its located to work. Its aluminum cable which is very difficult without specialized equipment, materials, and chemicals.

I have done alot of research(but still didnt scratch the knowledge bubble). There is so much about the repair.

I have learned that its imperative that a copper lug SHOULD NOT be in contact with an aluminum cable, heat will be created and it will fail fairly quickly. Joining copper with aluminum is a direct code violation of the IEEE code. I know we are not wiring houses here, however its basic metallurgy 101 vs. Electrical conductivity.

There are a lot of lugs that are CU/AL compatible. I'd hope they would have used this type....but common sense doesn't always enter into the equation.

 

[glohworm]

Here's a copy of the write up done on the end connector crimped onto the harness. I have no idea how this bolt figures into this fix. Ford part #W500566-S439.

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