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Ground location near the fuse box for hardwire kits?

Mymaverick2021

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I believe both are ignition controlled per @clavicus

If you’re looking for an always on fuse, #5 or #24 appear to be available based on discussions above in this thread. I haven’t tried either yet.

Hoping someone who used them or tested can say which way the tap needs to be oriented in either of those slots as I haven’t gotten around to testing them.
PS already have the much needed Fuse-tap also from AutoZone
 

clavicus

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Do you know which orientation the fuse tap needs to go for #24? Thinking about using it for my dashcam but haven’t gotten to testing it yet.
#24 technically bottom leg is the line, but you cannot fit the orientation the “correct” way for that — BUT, it actually doesn’t matter for #24 since the system does not use any power on that fuse, so there won’t be multiple loads going across the original 20amp fuse.

In other words, my dashcam power (when in parking mode) runs across both the original 20amp fuse, and also my added 5 amp fuse. It’s redundant, but no problem. There is no additional system load going across the 20 amp fuse.
 

clavicus

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I believe both are ignition controlled per @clavicus

If you’re looking for an always on fuse, #5 or #24 appear to be available based on discussions above in this thread. I haven’t tried either yet.

Hoping someone who used them or tested can say which way the tap needs to be oriented in either of those slots as I haven’t gotten around to testing them.
Correct, these are ignition-only from when I tested:

1-2 (micro3)
3
6
8-9 (micro3)
 

SuperTongue

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#24 technically bottom leg is the line, but you cannot fit the orientation the “correct” way for that — BUT, it actually doesn’t matter for #24 since the system does not use any power on that fuse, so there won’t be multiple loads going across the original 20amp fuse.

In other words, my dashcam power (when in parking mode) runs across both the original 20amp fuse, and also my added 5 amp fuse. It’s redundant, but no problem. There is no additional system load going across the 20 amp fuse.
Cool, thanks for the info! Going to try and get mine in this week. Already have the wires tucked in but ran out of time to test the fuses.
 

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oljackfrost

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Everyone in this thread is wiring to the inside fuse box. I haven’t seen any discussions elsewhere on which under hood fuse box locations to use for fog lights. Usually fog light manufacturers tell you to wire to the battery terminals, but in the owners manual Ford says not to do that because it can mess with some of the computers. A fuse tap and a chassis ground seems to be the way to go, but where?
 

SuperTongue

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Correct, these are ignition-only from when I tested:

1-2 (micro3)
3
6
8-9 (micro3)
Dropping back in to confirm #3 and #24 worked for my BlackVue 590X with parking mode! Thanks for the help!
 

Maverick88

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@clavicus is the GOAT. I hardwired my A129 Pro today using all of the information he provided. I’m using 1-2 (micro3) and 24 (micro2) Thank you so much.
 

clavicus

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@clavicus is the GOAT. I hardwired my A129 Pro today using all of the information he provided. I’m using 1-2 (micro3) and 24 (micro2) Thank you so much.
Sweet how's it working? Just a note about parking mode -- I found the "motion sensing" didn't work that way I expected, or at least in my quick testing it didn't reliably pick me up as I walked around. Parking mode will use basically the same amount of power no matter what setting you use -- motion sensing, or timelapse (I use 3 frame per second timelapse currently). Apparently the majority of power used is just keeping the guts of the camera(s) on, rather than power needed for active processing.

Parking mode may pull enough juice from your battery over 1-2+ hours, consistently each time the truck is turned off, for the system to go into "low power mode" and turn off remote start. It does this based on voltage drop from the battery, apparently, and I'm not sure how sensitive/consistent it really is. It might be a little overkill on it's sensitivity. I've basically resigned myself to this mode, and with warmer weather I don't really need the remote start so I don't mind so much currently.

I'm not sure if this is actually an issue with the amount of power used by the dashcam, but rather the consistency of the HVB to recharge the 12v battery. It's a little mysterious right now, because I've been on a 30 minute drive, and I turn off the truck and it tells me almost immediately it's going into low power mode. You would have thought it would have recharged, right? Other times, I drove 5 minutes to work and spend the day working and it doesn't go into low power mode the whole time. /shrug
 

Maverick88

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Sweet how's it working? Just a note about parking mode -- I found the "motion sensing" didn't work that way I expected, or at least in my quick testing it didn't reliably pick me up as I walked around. Parking mode will use basically the same amount of power no matter what setting you use -- motion sensing, or timelapse (I use 3 frame per second timelapse currently). Apparently the majority of power used is just keeping the guts of the camera(s) on, rather than power needed for active processing.

Parking mode may pull enough juice from your battery over 1-2+ hours, consistently each time the truck is turned off, for the system to go into "low power mode" and turn off remote start. It does this based on voltage drop from the battery, apparently, and I'm not sure how sensitive/consistent it really is. It might be a little overkill on it's sensitivity. I've basically resigned myself to this mode, and with warmer weather I don't really need the remote start so I don't mind so much currently.

I'm not sure if this is actually an issue with the amount of power used by the dashcam, but rather the consistency of the HVB to recharge the 12v battery. It's a little mysterious right now, because I've been on a 30 minute drive, and I turn off the truck and it tells me almost immediately it's going into low power mode. You would have thought it would have recharged, right? Other times, I drove 5 minutes to work and spend the day working and it doesn't go into low power mode the whole time. /shrug
Overall I think it's working well. I disabled Parking Mode on the A129 Pro. I don't need it but it would be nice to have in the future so I wired it up anyway. I confirmed that after the ignition turns off, the camera stops recording. The red lights on the camera turn off. Turning the ignition back on boots the camera. Which leads me to believe it's not drawing power with parking mode disabled.

But when I went out this morning, I noticed my doors wouldn't unlock when I stuck my hand in the handle. I heard clicking but the door wouldn't open. I was just sure the battery was dead. I was able to use the unlock button on the remote, and the truck started fine. I haven't see the "low power mode" in the app yet. But I'll keep an eye out for it. I may consider buying a voltage tester.

Auto Stop-Start kicked in a few times today, and I didn't see the camera cycle which was great.

I need to upgrade the firmware on my camera, it's running a version from 2019. Also my build is similar to yours, except I have the Ecoboost. Still Lariat Lux.
 

clavicus

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Overall I think it's working well. I disabled Parking Mode on the A129 Pro. I don't need it but it would be nice to have in the future so I wired it up anyway. I confirmed that after the ignition turns off, the camera stops recording. The red lights on the camera turn off. Turning the ignition back on boots the camera. Which leads me to believe it's not drawing power with parking mode disabled.

But when I went out this morning, I noticed my doors wouldn't unlock when I stuck my hand in the handle. I heard clicking but the door wouldn't open. I was just sure the battery was dead. I was able to use the unlock button on the remote, and the truck started fine. I haven't see the "low power mode" in the app yet. But I'll keep an eye out for it. I may consider buying a voltage tester.

Auto Stop-Start kicked in a few times today, and I didn't see the camera cycle which was great.

I need to upgrade the firmware on my camera, it's running a version from 2019. Also my build is similar to yours, except I have the Ecoboost. Still Lariat Lux.
You may be experiencing a software glitch others are describing about intelligent access—try disabling intelligent access in your vehicle menus and enabling again and see if it works. There have been a few threads about that lately. A couple people also have faulty driver door handles.
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