Generator Function / Large Inverter

[Decayed]

No, both the F-150 Hybrid and Escape Hybrid can have up to 450V on their batteries. Mav Hybrid will probably be the same.
https://www.fleet.ford.com/content/...resources/2021_F-150Hybrid_BatteryRemoval.pdf
https://www.fleet.ford.com/content/...ources/2020-2021_Escape_HV_BatteryRemoval.pdf

Ok I was only off by a factor of 10 you get what you pay for!

Either way, it's not something you can just splice into; you would need to step down the voltage to make it compatible with 12 v systems. Not something I would mess with.

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[wyouger]

The hybrid has two batteries. A 12v for running the ICE and the 12v accessories. This is what powers the leads in the bed. The second is a high voltage battery for the hybrid drive. The systems are not directly connected AFAIK.

The plug out power unit you have is $3k, while a decent inverter generator big enough to run an a/c unit, a fridge/freezer and all the other stuff you need is about $700.

Buscher's comments above are spot on. Batteries big enough to run your a/c will be big, heavy and expensive.

Another thing to consider is that using your vehicle's battery to power things puts additional wear and tear on the battery. Nothing is free. It will probably fail sooner and you will incur the cost of replacing it.

The ICE charges the high voltage battery through one of the motor/generators. This battery also starts the ICE through the motor/generator. The high voltage battery charges the 12v battery through a DC to DC converter.

 

[Maverickman74]

The fridge freezer in my bronco uses about 60 watts max. If that helps. Its the A/C thats killing ya. Everything else is probably easy to run. I live in Hawaii in a small off grid cabin. We dont have A/C, we just have a couple ryobi battery powered fans going through the night. Our solar is relatively simple. we have a shared system with inlaws and our own shop system. None of it is hard. I would think about if you really need A/C in the truck and the camper. if you can survive without it, just toss a small solar setup on the camper and be you should be just fine.

 

[8-fingers]

I read more of your comments after the first post. No generator....ok.

I've built my own 90% solar home and a new Nissan Van a few years ago that was solar/battery powered.

There are other batteries out there that work but are large and heavy, industrial batteries, it's all I've used, they are 135 pounds each. When I built the van I had just one of those. I ran a cable from the alternator to an isolator switch then to the battery. The switch will only allow the alternator to charge the battery but won't allow the battery to drain the trucks battery. I had 300 watts of solar on the roof. I used the battery to power the water pump for the shower, run a TV/DVD player, fans, lights, 12v fridge/freezer, igniter for the gas hot water heater and a power inverter. I never ran out of battery, the fans I'd run at night to stay cool. This system would not work for AC. The fridge and everything else worked flawlessly. During the day I'd drive and the alternator would charge if needed but the solar actually did a good job, I was out west a lot during those traveling days.

The fridge, lights and everything else are easy to power your hard part is the a/c.

The fridge freezer in my bronco uses about 60 watts max. If that helps. Its the A/C thats killing ya. Everything else is probably easy to run. I live in Hawaii in a small off grid cabin. We dont have A/C, we just have a couple ryobi battery powered fans going through the night. Our solar is relatively simple. we have a shared system with inlaws and our own shop system. None of it is hard. I would think about if you really need A/C in the truck and the camper. if you can survive without it, just toss a small solar setup on the camper and be you should be just fine.

These folks have it right. About everything you need can be DC powered off the ICE battery, and the DC wiring to the bed would work just fine for a DC refrig/freezer, DC LED lights and fans. A good DC fridge usually pulls 30W-60W when the compressor kicks in to get the unit down to temperature and once there, the compressor may only around 10 minutes out of an hour, depending on refrig/freezer specs. DC LED lighting and most DC fans use very little power.

Just say NO to AC, even if you have a 5000btu AC that uses anywhere from 400W-600W per hour. Even then you would need 3000Wh-4000Wh of stored power to run this sized AC most of the night and alot of solar panels to charge during the day.

The bed DC outlet is probably fused at 10A for 120W output, more or less... If you do use the DC bed power make sure you use quality connectors (XT30, XT60, XT90 or Anderson connectors) as the cigarette style connectors become loose (driving) and at 10A, will melt the plugs from arcing.. You would also need to add these type of connectors to anything you want to power with DC.

Don't bother trying to tap power from the Hybrid Power Pack, not only is it dangerous but it would be expensive to do all of the power conversions.

 

[TimeOutside]

The hybrid has two batteries. A 12v for running the ICE and the 12v accessories. This is what powers the leads in the bed. The second is a high voltage battery for the hybrid drive. The systems are not directly connected AFAIK.

On my to-do list is confirming that the start/accessory battery does not receive power from the high voltage/traction battery. It would be handy if that were the case, but I seriously doubt they are connected.

The plug out power unit you have is $3k, while a decent inverter generator big enough to run an a/c unit, a fridge/freezer and all the other stuff you need is about $700.

I haven't seen any 5kw pure sine wave generator/inverter combinations that make 58 decibels or less noise for anywhere near $700. But yes, I know I would be paying a premium price for:

• A proven system, rather than something DIY
• A system that will run for days, rather than 8 or 10 hours without refilling
• Not needing to carry around a bunch of gas cans and/or make daily trips to a gas station
• Not needing to purchase and carry around oil to mix with the gas (if the generator requires it)
• Something efficient
• No power surges or brown outs
• QUIET
• Can be run in a ventilated garage for home use
• Etc.

In short, I find value in the cost.

Buscher's comments above are spot on. Batteries big enough to run your a/c will be big, heavy and expensive.

I have never planned on running the a/c solely on external batteries. That is the point of wanting to tap into the high voltage / traction battery. The use of one or two deep cycle batteries to reduce the frequency of the ICE cycling on and off would be an option looking into, but only if more preferred solutions do not pan out.

Another thing to consider is that using your vehicle's battery to power things puts additional wear and tear on the battery. Nothing is free. It will probably fail sooner and you will incur the cost of replacing it.

True. This is something to consider. Yet I would think it would have less impact on the battery than driving the same number of hours and this isn't something that is going to see frequent use. And I won't have the cost of replacing a generator/inverter. Still, until we know the cost of battery replacement or repair then this is a tough matter to evaluate.

The ICE charges the high voltage battery through one of the motor/generators. This battery also starts the ICE through the motor/generator. The high voltage battery charges the 12v battery through a DC to DC converter.

This is good to know (the 12vdc battery is charged by the traction battery). It opens up options, such as using external batteries. If a 5k BTU A/C uses 5000 Wh a night, then we have 5000 Wh / 12 VDC = 416 Ah. It seems to me this is very doable if an external battery or two is supplemented by charging from the vehicle through the 12 volt battery or perhaps the bed leads.

Folks, as I posted earlier, saying "no" to A/C is not an option if my wife is going to come along, which is my goal. If it is just me then I'll be traveling in my old Corolla and sleeping in a tent. I won't be bothering with any of this.

 

[Decayed]

On my to-do list is confirming that the start/accessory battery does not receive power from the high voltage/traction battery. It would be handy if that were the case, but I seriously doubt they are connected.


I haven't seen any 5kw pure sine wave generator/inverter combinations that make 58 decibels or less noise for anywhere near $700. But yes, I know I would be paying a premium price for:

• A proven system, rather than something DIY
• A system that will run for days, rather than 8 or 10 hours without refilling
• Not needing to carry around a bunch of gas cans and/or make daily trips to a gas station
• Not needing to purchase and carry around oil to mix with the gas (if the generator requires it)
• Something efficient
• No power surges or brown outs
• QUIET
• Can be run in a ventilated garage for home use
• Etc.

In short, I find value in the cost.


I have never planned on running the a/c solely on external batteries. That is the point of wanting to tap into the high voltage / traction battery. The use of one or two deep cycle batteries to reduce the frequency of the ICE cycling on and off would be an option looking into, but only if more preferred solutions do not pan out.


True. This is something to consider. Yet I would think it would have less impact on the battery than driving the same number of hours and this isn't something that is going to see frequent use. And I won't have the cost of replacing a generator/inverter. Still, until we know the cost of battery replacement or repair then this is a tough matter to evaluate.

Where are you getting the 58db number? Inverter generators are really quiet, for instance this one is listed at 61 db and if you are motivated you can build a box to further reduce the noise.

amazon.com/Champion-Power-Equipment-200986-4500-Watt/dp/B08HGS82P6

Not sure if it is actually pure sine wave but these are generally considered pretty good. They advertise it as "clean power" whatever that is. Just sayin'.

 

[grumpyunk]

I would double check on official documentation that the bed 12V outlets will cause an ICE engine startup. I have vague memory that they were just like any other power consuming device, and did NOT engage the ICE to keep starting battery power up.

 

[TimeOutside]

Where are you getting the 58db number?

I ran across it somewhere as the exhause noise level of the Maverick. I have since not be able to find it again, so it makes me wonder, but the value seems reasonable. A sound level around that value would be my target.

I would double check on official documentation that the bed 12V outlets will cause an ICE engine startup.

Yep. Indeed everything needs to be confirmed.

 

[Automate]

I would double check on official documentation that the bed 12V outlets will cause an ICE engine startup. I have vague memory that they were just like any other power consuming device, and did NOT engage the ICE to keep starting battery power up.

If the key is on, the HV battery charges the 12V battery through a DC to DC converter. Ford eCVT Hybrids do not have a typical alternator to charge the battery. The 12v battery is only charged from the 450V HV battery.

So if the key is on, the HV battery will keep the 12V battery charged. Once the HV battery runs down to a low enough voltage the ICE will start to recharge the HV battery.

I've had a Fusion Hybrid for may years and every Ford eCVT Hybrid all the way back to the 2005 Escape hybrid has worked this way.

 

[TimeOutside]

If the key is on, the HV battery charges the 12V battery through a DC to DC converter. Ford eCVT Hybrids do not have a typical alternator to charge the battery. The 12v battery is only charged from the 450V HV battery.

So if the key is on, the HV battery will keep the 12V battery charged. Once the HV battery runs down to a low enough voltage the ICE will start to recharge the HV battery.

I've had a Fusion Hybrid for may years and every Ford eCVT Hybrid all the way back to the 2005 Escape hybrid has worked this way.

This is excellent news. It certainly opens up options.

 

[Jah.]

Most camp grounds have rules that prohibit the running of any type of engine running during quite hours to generate energy for the functioning of a camper . If you want ac overnight then go to campground that has electric hookup . nobody wants to listen to any engine running when camping out . If you do that , even boondocking camping ( if there are other campers around )you are looking for trouble . It is consider rude and inconsiderate behavior .

 

[TimeOutside]

Most camp grounds have rules that prohibit the running of any type of engine running during quite hours to generate energy for the functioning of a camper . If you want ac overnight then go to campground that has electric hookup . nobody wants to listen to any engine running when camping out . If you do that , even boondocking camping ( if there are other campers around )you are looking for trouble . It is consider rude and inconsiderate behavior .

Jah, please see my earlier post. I am very aware of these matters. It is the reason I will no longer camp in hunting camps. Rest assured, I will always follow the rules and never subject anyone to engine noise (generator or ICE).

 

[SolidWrecks]

You'd be better off finding a way to tie into the truck's AC. The system uses a DC compressor which you may be able to find a way to tap into with a couple hoses going into a vent on the truck and your camp. Not pretty but if you put it on panel and close all but one vent, you'd get a blast of cold air out of that one vent which you could suck into a hose with a small PC fan. You'd then need to possibly get a second temp sensor and then remote mount it in your camp if you have temp control AC. You would also probably want a cold air return into the truck so you didn't suck up dust from the cabin drains.

 

[MakinDoForNow]

Thanks again everyone for your input. Here are a few thoughts in response to the comments above.

• I'm looking at a camper less than 2k pounds. Although I haven't pulled the numbers yet, I don't see an a/c unit for such a camper requiring 4kw.
• However, I don't see solar as being adequate.
• The leads Ford provides in the bed certainly aren't adequate.
• I am thoroughly opposed to an external generator. Generators are obnoxious. I no longer tent camp during hunting season, when I can't camp backwoods, purely because of people running generators in hunting camps. I won't do that to others. I've heard the F150 hybrid running while charging. I could be wrong, but I don't believe I've ever heard even a quiet four stroke generator that was anywhere near as quiet as the F150. I would suspect the Maverick would be even quieter. That's why I'm asking if the Maverick could be rigged to generate power like the F150.
• I do have friends that are DC power technicians. Given some guideance from someone familiar with the Maverick that has already done the work, I don't anticipate being able to properly complete the task.

I'm not planning on going forward with a vehicle purchase until at least mid-year 2022 (unless my current vehicle unexpectedly dies). So, I'm just trying to think and plan in advance. There is no hurry. Right now it looks like the F150 would be the best solution. It's overkill, but it will do the job without question. Meanwhile, I'll keep checking on this thread and watching others to see if someone comes up with a solution for the Maverick.

Thanks again,
Andrew

PS. djw479, a Prius is the poster child of boring cars and men with lost dignity.

Is the f150 you are talking about a hybrid or is it a plug in hybrid? Sorry but I have never been interested in f150's due to size and $$$. In considering solar panels for my home I have considered the lightning versions as for charging from solar panels and possibly providing additional backup for my house past two powerwall's. But in some MTC threads your desire has been brought up with some believing that it might be possible with truck in "ready" status but wonder if truck is programmed to maintain ready status (like you are waiting for a stop light to change for hours). I believe that it would take the plug in hybrid design to be able to provide the 120ac current you want and have the cycling on and off. I believe that Ford CEO stated that they were looking to get plug in functionality asap for maverick. Design should be quick and relatively easy but I think 2023 happens too fast and 2024 model year would be most likely. In the 2022 I fear you may have to rig something for a last ditch solution. There is a fuze labeled 12V 30amp aftermarket brake controller (is there maybe a 40???). I would assume those are all on switch though!? Maybe you can do something like put your key fob in a faraday fob in the box aka "jack in the box" where fob jumps up instead of jack and your maverick thinks you have arrived and gets ready to run, noticed HVB is low and fires up ice to charge battery. Open fob in box with modified smart maintenance mode charger to open box instead of charging. I cannot try this as I don't have a build date yet.

 

[MakinDoForNow]

On my to-do list is confirming that the start/accessory battery does not receive power from the high voltage/traction battery. It would be handy if that were the case, but I seriously doubt they are connected.


I haven't seen any 5kw pure sine wave generator/inverter combinations that make 58 decibels or less noise for anywhere near $700. But yes, I know I would be paying a premium price for:

• A proven system, rather than something DIY
• A system that will run for days, rather than 8 or 10 hours without refilling
• Not needing to carry around a bunch of gas cans and/or make daily trips to a gas station
• Not needing to purchase and carry around oil to mix with the gas (if the generator requires it)
• Something efficient
• No power surges or brown outs
• QUIET
• Can be run in a ventilated garage for home use
• Etc.

In short, I find value in the cost.


I have never planned on running the a/c solely on external batteries. That is the point of wanting to tap into the high voltage / traction battery. The use of one or two deep cycle batteries to reduce the frequency of the ICE cycling on and off would be an option looking into, but only if more preferred solutions do not pan out.


True. This is something to consider. Yet I would think it would have less impact on the battery than driving the same number of hours and this isn't something that is going to see frequent use. And I won't have the cost of replacing a generator/inverter. Still, until we know the cost of battery replacement or repair then this is a tough matter to evaluate.


This is good to know (the 12vdc battery is charged by the traction battery). It opens up options, such as using external batteries. If a 5k BTU A/C uses 5000 Wh a night, then we have 5000 Wh / 12 VDC = 416 Ah. It seems to me this is very doable if an external battery or two is supplemented by charging from the vehicle through the 12 volt battery or perhaps the bed leads.

Folks, as I posted earlier, saying "no" to A/C is not an option if my wife is going to come along, which is my goal. If it is just me then I'll be traveling in my old Corolla and sleeping in a tent. I won't be bothering with any of this.

Install an aftermarket 7 pin brake controller using the remote battery charging pins to charge your remote battery which is used to run your ac inverter.

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