Fixed-Point Roof Racks (Yakima Landing Pads, Rails, etc.)

[clavicus]

I assume you are referring to the Track or Rails and NOT the assorted Roof Rack items / options. So, what I paid (not including military discount):
1. Yakima 42" Yakima Track w/ plusnuts (201126) = $168.95
2. Track System Installation = $300.00

BYW, installation meant putting everything together (out of the boxes), aligned and leveled on the truck (Landing Pads, Skyline, JetStream, SKS Cores, & LongArm). Complete and ready to drive off.

I would add that as confident as I am in my DIY'ing abilities I didn't have a problem paying to have this professionally installed. I say this primarily b/c I have ZERO experience in this type of critical install.

Wow I expected that install cost to be way higher.

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[clavicus]

Why not just use thew clip on style roof rack that Yakima sells. Yes rated for 165 lbs BUT if you ad a rear cross bar via trailer hitch I cant ever see overloading for even three 60 pound kayaks. No drilling just clamps on . I have used that type of roof rack for years. My buddy with F150 has ONE cross bar up front on cab with clamp on then has cap on bed which uses the rivet rail type setup for two cross bars over bed area. This way bars are way apart. If I ever get maverick I plan on one cross bar clamp on type over cab then hitch cross bar in back..This way large amount of space between cross bars. ,. Its the wind twisting force with bars close together that rips kayaks off roofs.

Thats definitely plan A, but I do appreciate the look of basically flush rails rather than clips, and what seems to be more customization of cross bar system and positioning possible with a rail system; finally ease of taking them on/off seems easier with the rails. Weight rating benefit is not really a priority since it’s still going to be relatively low.

 

[Delbert]

Clip on racks are like clip on ties. They may do everything better, but it is just wrong.

 

[Delbert]

Two crossbars spaced 30" to 50" apart works best for most kayaks. I have transported my 16 foot sea kayak all over the east coast with my Subaru's cross bars spaced at 33". No bow or stern lines necessary. Shorter boats can also be carried. Bars spaced more than 50" are hard to load and I worry about the stability of hitch mounted cross bars.

 

[TheSEARCH]

Two crossbars spaced 30" to 50" apart works best for most kayaks. I have transported my 16 foot sea kayak all over the east coast with my Subaru's cross bars spaced at 33". No bow or stern lines necessary. Shorter boats can also be carried. Bars spaced more than 50" are hard to load and I worry about the stability of hitch mounted cross bars.

The farther apart the bars the MORE secure it is. If you choose not to use bow and stern lines you put others at risk as a strap can fail, heck cross bars can fail ESPECIALLY on Subarus. Know issues with the factory rails which the cross bars attach too. The manufacturer Thule/yakima says to use them so you are putting yourself at risk in a lawsuit. l also have many kayaks up to 18 feet long. My user name on facebook is Dan Rollmaster. There is a video on youtube were the factory rails fail on a Subura and they lose two fiberglass sea kayaks.

 

[Delbert]

Factory rails have never been satisfactory for hauling boats. They are often just riveted to the sheet metal. A bow and stern line can take all the uplift associated with highway driving so the rack feels no lift. If you rivet nut a crossbar to the cab it will not be sufficient to handle the uplift and a bow line would be prudent. I stand corrected.

What I am recommending is a bed rack securely fastened to the bed rails. The 40" spacing between the rails is sufficient for all kinds of rack accessories and you can carry your 8 foot whitewater boat as well as a sea kayak. Use bow lines as you see prudent.

Hitch mounted crossbars wiggle. I'd be tying the ends of the bar to the bumper for stability. It is the vibration and movement in long trips that break things. For the same price you can have a steel bed rack .
Loading boats on widely spaced bars is a two person job. I can't imagine loading a 70 pound fishing kayak by myself. With closely spaced bars, my aged body slides the boat over the rear crossbar until it teeters down to rest on the front bar. No more clean and jerk to throw the boat onto the rack.
If all I had was a roof rail on the front I'd be teetering it through the back window.

To be fair. I have both a roof rack and a bed rack on my Mav. I also have mounted tie points for a bow line. I am advocating for steel bed racks on Mavericks as a cost effective way to haul boats.

 

[JohnnyBravo]

I posted in another forum, but this is how my installer "Rack Attack" performed the job. It took about 3 hours for the full job including setting up the LongArm. Originally I was preparing / researching the Bed Rack / Tonneau cover combo but didn't like the available solutions yet & $$$. So, for now this solves my Hobie Outback transporting issues while at the same time allows me to continue making use of my tonneau that came with my First Edition. Eventually, I know I will get the Yakima HD Bed Rack, but this gives me more time...

where did you source the low profile rails?

 

[glpuckett]

where did you source the low profile rails?

I checked out a couple of rack specialty shops and finally decided on Rack Attack. They worked with me and helped in deciding to go with the Yakima rails.

 

[TheSEARCH]

Factory rails have never been satisfactory for hauling boats. They are often just riveted to the sheet metal. A bow and stern line can take all the uplift associated with highway driving so the rack feels no lift. If you rivet nut a crossbar to the cab it will not be sufficient to handle the uplift and a bow line would be prudent. I stand corrected.

What I am recommending is a bed rack securely fastened to the bed rails. The 40" spacing between the rails is sufficient for all kinds of rack accessories and you can carry your 8 foot whitewater boat as well as a sea kayak. Use bow lines as you see prudent.

Hitch mounted crossbars wiggle. I'd be tying the ends of the bar to the bumper for stability. It is the vibration and movement in long trips that break things. For the same price you can have a steel bed rack .
Loading boats on widely spaced bars is a two person job. I can't imagine loading a 70 pound fishing kayak by myself. With closely spaced bars, my aged body slides the boat over the rear crossbar until it teeters down to rest on the front bar. No more clean and jerk to throw the boat onto the rack.
If all I had was a roof rail on the front I'd be teetering it through the back window.

To be fair. I have both a roof rack and a bed rack on my Mav. I also have mounted tie points for a bow line. I am advocating for steel bed racks on Mavericks as a cost effective way to haul boats.

I thought Steel mount bed racks were very pricey like a grand or more? Is there a cheaper one?

 

[SkeeterB]

I use a vertical hitch extender with the gizzmoe that keeps it stable for the rear. Front is a roof rack by Thule. I use a double bow line to each side of the hood. If the rear strap breaks the kayak still won't get loose.

 

[Delbert]

I thought Steel mount bed racks were very pricey like a grand or more? Is there a cheaper one?

This one was $100 on ebay delivered. They are cheap. Some easy modification required. Make sure all exposed metal is coated especially the edges where you cut the tubes. Iron rusts.


The round bars are quiet. Most of the overland racks will whistle in the wind.

 

[TheSEARCH]

This one was $100 on ebay delivered. They are cheap. Some easy modification required. Make sure all exposed metal is coated especially the edges where you cut the tubes. Iron rusts.


The round bars are quiet. Most of the overland racks will whistle in the wind.

Did you post a link as I cant see it? Or just do a search on ebay?

 

[Delbert]

Here it is from a different seller. You can get the bar down to 22.5" by simply cutting the upright tubes. I cut the front one down to 21.5" to match the Yakima bars but to get it that low you need to weld a new nipple on the upright. Where it sits on the bed rail it is a little wide, I used 1/4" spacers on the inside of the rail so it would sit nice and flat on top of the bed rail. Riv nuts were install in the bedrail so it can be taken off and on easily. However, clamps could be used.

Here it is from another seller:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Universal-...-Heavy-Duty-/304351779193?hash=item46dcc79979

 

[glider]

The service department gave that to me as well. Requires pulling the A,B, and C pillar trim, the rear seatbelts, mirror and console, sun visors, microphone, rear roof handles, etc. Not a quick job for someone who hasn’t pulled a lot of trim before.

And then there’s the question of how much adhesive Ford used. The instructions imply that there is at least some adhesive tape. Replacement rails seem to cost $330 each, so damaging one would be expensive.

The bolts are interesting. Maybe Ford originally intended to install a proper track for racks, but changed their mind at the last minute? After searching YouTube for examples of people replacing gutter trim on other vehicles, I didn’t come across anything with bolts like the Maverick. Sometimes there are little clips, but grooves and glue seem to be most common methods of retaining the trim.

Can one just rivet through the black filler. Looks to be bolted down pretty good.

 

[Delbert]

The best option I have seen is to rivet nut through the roof inside the moulding. Take out the door seal and bend down the headliner enough so you can see where the cross beams are so you drill through two layers of steel and maybe even get a nut under there. I used landing pads placed without regard to the beams. It could stand to be a little sturdier.

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